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      ["id"]=>
      string(3) "389"
      ["member_id"]=>
      string(3) "102"
      ["title_eng"]=>
      string(30) "RISE - the Necromancer project"
      ["title_hrv"]=>
      string(27) "RISE – projekt Nekromant "
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      string(30) "rise_-_the_necromancer_project"
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      string(9480) "
  
  	For a while I had this Ossiarch Bonereapers miniature, Mortisan Boneshaper, from Age of Sigmar, in my collection of gray plastic, not really knowing what to do with it. I liked the model, bought it to support a local hobby store I visited, but didn’t find any inspiration for it.
  
  	Until one day I saw a few kits at Carta Magica and my head started spinning around a new diorama idea - a Necromancer raising undead warriors from their graves. One of these kits was gravestone bits from Green Stuff World, the other was this Spirit Hosts kit, where I suddenly noticed the very fitting skeletons at the base that I never saw before. They were perfect for my idea.
  
  	  
  
  	I started by getting rid of all the spikes on the Boneshaper, as they’re too silly, big and unnecessary for my taste. I cut them off with my hobby knife and covered up the space this left with some brown stuff. I also covered up the very “warhammer-y”, fancy pattern on middle part of his armor, with brown stuff as well.
  
  	For the base, I started with a piece of XPS foam cut to the same size as the wooden plinth I knew I wanted to display it on. I superglued several pieces of bark on one side of the base, to elevate the area where my Mortisan Boneshaper, the focal point of the diorama, would be placed. I also mixed superglue with baking soda to create some textures here as well. Then I covered the bark and all the XPS foam with cheap, air-hardening modeling clay from DAS. At this point I also test-fitted all my elements - the graves, the skeletons and some small branches that would eventually serve as streaks of energy (I didn’t know that yet at this point). And I pushed the base of the Mortisan Boneshaper into the clay before it had hardened to make sure it will fit in the future (although I didn’t consider how much this kind of clay shrinks when it dries, so I eventually had to cut out more clay to make the base fit).
  
  	  
  
  	The next step was to blend the graves and skeletons into the rest of the landscape. For this I found that Standard Milliput is perfect. It’s easy to work with and shape, it doesn’t stick as much as brown or green stuff, and only requires a little water to blend it into the landscape.
  
  	  
  
  	My painting plan for this diorama and the miniature, was to work with contrast paints and enamel washes, something I don’t do often, so it would serve as practice. For this reason, I zenithal primed both diorama and miniature, and then covered them in contrast colours. On the diorama, to get a lot of variation in colour tones, I used five different contrast colours, as I knew the later stage of drybrushing would bring them all together. I used warm colour tones for the rocks, landscape and skeletons - red, yellow, warm brown and green - while covering the gravestones in a colder blue colour (I like Citadel Contrast colour Gryph-Charger Grey a lot, as it is subtle, but gives a cold tint). Then I drybrushed everything with several lighter, neutral greys and browns.
  
  	  
  
  	I was happy with how varied in colour the landscape looked after this, but as I had already decided on Streaking Grime enamel as the wash for the whole project, because of a successful test on a General Grievous mini earlier, I went ahead and covered everything in the enamel wash, waited for 15 minutes and began the laborious process of cleaning off most of it with make-up removal brushes from DM that I’ve grown quite fond of (they don’t leave cotton hairs as Q-tips do) and paper towels. On the miniature I was pleased with the result, as the Streaking Grime dirtied down the very flashy yellow colour on the dress, and gave an interesting worn feeling to the bones. Just as my Grievous test had showed me. But as I had never tested this technique on landscapes before, I made a miscalculation. In hindsight I would have left if without the wash, as the contrast colours had already added a nice contrast (duh?) to the diorama. Since the landscape had a lot of tiny textures, from the bark, superglue and baking soda, the enamel wash got stuck deep within the small crevices, and were impossible to get off. This left we with a darker, dirtier, less varied landscape than I wanted, and I took me a long time, and lots of boring steps I won’t get into here, to get some colour variation and interesting tones back into the diorama.
  
  	  
  
  	After highlighting the mini, the skeletons and the graves, it was time to tackle the energy streaks. What was first supposed to be regular branches, I decided to give a strong colour, pretend that they were streaks of energy coming up from the ground all around the Boneshaper as he’s doing his necromancy thing. I had several reasons for deciding on this - 1. the flashy, turquoise colour of the effect would add some nice colour back into a very brown diorama, 2. I hoped the energy streaks would add some dynamism and movement to the diorama, as well as help tell the story better and 3. it would give me a chance to add some subtle OSL in the project. I took inspiration from this artwork I found of the Mortisan Boneshaper.
  
  	So I base coloured the energy streaks with white. Then covered them all in two layers of the Citadel Technical paint Nihilakh Oxide.
  
  	  
  
  	Next step was again a Citadel Contrast paint, as this was my go to for the entire project. The one called Aeldari Emerald has a very strong, dark turquoise tone, and only needs one layer to cover anything light enough. So I gave the streaks a coat of this, and then proceeded to drybrush Celestra Grey and Ulthuan Grey in several layers on the streaks, and also on the ground around the streaks. Then another coat of Aeldari Emerald, with a watered down mix used to cover the ground around the streaks for the OSL. Then more drysbrushing, then back to some Nihilakh Oxide to bring in some more midtone again, as the darkness of the Aeldari Emerald became my shadow color, the Ulthuan Grey the brightest highlight, and so the Nihilakh Oxide became the midtone. I repeated these steps until I was happy with the outcome, as well as adding a Spirit Host painted in the same scheme. This was originally just a test model for the colour scheme, but it eventually found its way into the diorama.
  
  	  
  
  	At this point I was quite happy with the diorama, but felt like something was missing. Some colour in the brown, dirt ground was still lacking, and since it’s a rather large diorama, I wanted to pack it with as much story as possible. I had recently bought some 3D printed spiders from Green Stuff World, and had the idea to paint them quite colourful, as well as have them running towards the necromancer, solving both problems; they would give some more colour to the ground, and help sell the “story” that the Boneshaper is controlling so much energy in this necromancy ritual, that all the spiders in the area are attracted to him. I found a picture of different spiders online, and decided on the one on the bottom line, second from left, as I thought the colour would complement the diorama nicely.
  
  	  
  
  	So after about a month of on-and-off work on the diorama, I had this result:
  
  	  
  "
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      string(9623) "
  
  	Neko sam vrijeme imao ovu minijaturu Ossiarch Bonereapers, Mortisan Boneshaper, iz Age of Sigmar, u svojoj kolekciji sive plastike, ne znajući što bih s njom. Svidio mi se model, kupio sam ga da podržim lokalnu hobi trgovinu koju sam posjetio, ali nisam našao nikakvu inspiraciju za njega.
  
  	Sve dok jednog dana nisam vidio nekoliko kompleta u Carta Magici i u glavi mi se počela vrtjeti nova ideja o diorami - Nekromant koji podiže nemrtve ratnike iz njihovih grobova. Jedan od tih kompleta bili su dijelovi nadgrobnih spomenika iz Green Stuff Worlda, drugi je bio ovaj komplet Spirit Hosts, gdje sam iznenada primijetio vrlo prikladne kosture u podnožju koje nikad prije nisam vidio. Bile su savršene za moju ideju.
  
  	  
  
  	Počeo sam tako što sam se riješio svih šiljaka na Boneshaperu, jer su previše glupi, veliki i nepotrebni za moj ukus. Odrezao sam ih svojim hobi nožem i pokrio prostor koji je ostao Brown Stuffom. Također sam prekrio sam "warhammer-y", otmjeni uzorak na srednjem dijelu njegovog oklopa, također Brown Stuffom.
  
  	Za podlogu sam počeo s komadom stirodura izrezanim na istu veličinu kao drveno postolje za koje sam znao da ga želim izložiti. Zalijepio sam nekoliko komada kore na jednu stranu baze, kako bih podigao područje gdje će biti postavljen moj Mortisan Boneshaper, žarišna točka diorame. Također sam pomiješala superljepilo sa sodom bikarbonom kako bih i ovdje stvorila neke teksture. Zatim sam prekrio koru i sav stirodur jeftinom DAS-ovom masom za modeliranje koja se stvrdnjava na zraku. U ovom trenutku također sam testirao sve svoje elemente - grobove, kosture i neke male grane koje bi na kraju poslužile kao trake energije (u ovom trenutku to još nisam znao). Gurnuo sam bazu Mortisan Boneshapera u glinu prije nego što se stvrdnula kako bih bio siguran da će pristajati u budućnosti (iako nisam uzeo u obzir koliko se ova vrsta gline skuplja kad se suši, pa sam na kraju morao izrezati više gline kako bi podloga pristajala).
  
  	  
  
  	Sljedeći korak bio je uklopiti grobove i kosture u ostatak krajolika. Za ovo sam otkrio da je Standard Milliput savršen. Jednostavan je za rad i oblikovanje, ne lijepi se toliko kao smeđe ili zelene stvari i potrebno mu je samo malo vode da se uklopi u krajolik.
  
  	  
  
  	Moj slikarski plan za ovu dioramu i minijaturu, bio je raditi s kontrastnim bojama i ispiranjem emajla, nešto što ne radim često, pa bi poslužilo kao vježba. Iz tog sam razloga i dioramu i minijaturu zenitalno premazao temeljnim premazom, a potom prekrio kontrastnim bojama. Na diorami, kako bih dobio mnogo varijacija u tonovima boja, upotrijebio sam pet različitih kontrastnih boja, budući da sam znao da će ih kasnija faza suhog četkanja sve spojiti. Koristio sam tople tonove boja za stijene, krajolik i kosture - crvenu, žutu, toplo smeđu i zelenu - dok sam nadgrobne spomenike prekrio hladnijom plavom bojom (mnogo volim Citadel Contrast boju Gryph-Charger Grey, jer je suptilna, ali daje hladnu nijansu). Zatim sam sve počešljala s nekoliko svjetlijih, neutralnih sivih i smeđih nijansi.
  
  	  
  
  	Bio sam zadovoljan raznolikošću boja koje je krajolik izgledao nakon ovoga, ali kako sam već bio odlučio za Streaking Grime emajl kao boju za cijeli projekt, zbog uspješnog testa na General Grievous mini ranije, otišao sam naprijed i prekrio sve u pranju cakline, pričekala 15 minuta i započela naporan proces čišćenja većine četkicama za skidanje šminke iz DM-a koje sam jako zavoljela (ne ostavljaju dlačice vate kao Q-tips) i papirnati ručnici. Na minijaturi sam bio zadovoljan rezultatom, jer je Streaking Grime zaprljao vrlo blistavu žutu boju na haljini i dao zanimljiv osjećaj iznošenosti na kostima. Baš kao što mi je pokazao moj Grievous test. Ali kako nikada prije nisam testirao ovu tehniku na krajolicima, krivo sam izračunao. Gledajući unatrag, otišao bih da nije bilo pranja, jer su kontrastne boje već dodale lijep kontrast (a?) diorami. Budući da je krajolik imao puno sitnih tekstura, od kore, superljepila i sode bikarbone, emajl je zapeo duboko u malim pukotinama i nemoguće ih je skinuti. To nam je ostavilo tamniji, prljaviji, manje raznolik krajolik nego što sam želio, i trebalo mi je puno vremena i puno dosadnih koraka u koje neću ovdje ulaziti, da vratim neke varijacije boja i zanimljive tonove u dioramu.
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon što smo istaknuli mini, kosture i grobove, došlo je vrijeme da se pozabavimo energetskim prugama. Ono što su prvo trebale biti pravilne grane, odlučio sam dati jaku boju, pretvarajući se da su to trake energije koje dolaze iz zemlje posvuda oko Boneshapera dok obavlja svoju nekromantiju. Imao sam nekoliko razloga zašto sam se odlučio za ovo - 1. blistava, tirkizna boja efekta dodala bi nešto lijepe boje natrag u vrlo smeđu dioramu, 2. Nadao sam se da će energetske pruge dodati malo dinamike i pokreta diorami, također kao pomoć da bolje ispričam priču i 3. to bi mi dalo priliku da dodam malo suptilnog OSL-a u projekt. Nadahnuo sam se ovim umjetničkim djelom Mortisan Boneshapera koje sam pronašao.
  
  	Tako sam bazično obojio energetske pruge bijelom bojom. Zatim ih sve prekrio u dva sloja Citadel Technical boje Nihilakh Oxide.
  
  	  
  
  	Sljedeći korak ponovno je bila Citadel Contrast boja, jer je to bio moj izbor za cijeli projekt. Onaj koji se zove Aeldari Emerald ima vrlo jak, tamno tirkizni ton i treba mu samo jedan sloj da prekrije bilo što dovoljno svijetlo. Tako sam na pruge namazao ovaj sloj, a zatim nastavio suvim četkanjem Celestra Gray i Ulthuan Gray u nekoliko slojeva na pruge, a također i na tlo oko pruga. Zatim još jedan sloj Aeldari Emerald, s razvodnjenom mješavinom koja se koristi za pokrivanje tla oko pruga za OSL. Zatim još suhog četkanja, zatim natrag na malo Nihilakh Oxidea da ponovno unesem još malo srednjeg tona, jer je tamna Aeldari Emerald postala moja boja sjene, Ulthuan Gray najsvjetliji naglasak, i tako je Nihilakh Oxide postao srednji ton. Ponavljao sam ove korake dok nisam bio zadovoljan ishodom, kao i dodavanjem Duhovnog domaćina naslikanog u istoj shemi. Ovo je izvorno bio samo testni model za shemu boja, ali se na kraju našao u diorami.
  
  	  
  
  	U ovom sam trenutku bio prilično zadovoljan dioramom, ali osjećao sam se kao da nešto nedostaje. Još je nedostajalo nešto boje u smeđoj, zemljanoj podlozi, a budući da je diorama prilično velika, želio sam je upakirati sa što više priče. Nedavno sam kupio neke 3D ispisane pauke iz Green Stuff Worlda i došao sam na ideju da ih obojim prilično šarenim bojama, kao i da trče prema nekromantu, rješavajući oba problema; dali bi više boje tlu i pomogli prodati "priču" da Boneshaper kontrolira toliko energije u ovom ritualu nekromantije, da ga privlače svi pauci u tom području. Pronašao sam sliku različitih paukova na internetu i odlučio se za onog u donjem redu, drugi slijeva, jer sam mislio da će boja lijepo nadopuniti dioramu.
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon otprilike mjesec dana rada na diorami, dobio sam ovaj rezultat:
  
  	  
  "
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      ["first_name"]=>
      string(9) "Sebastian"
      ["last_name"]=>
      string(8) "Søgård"
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  Sebastian Søgård, 5th June 2024

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      ["title_eng"]=>
      string(29) "Three Musketeers - Greyhound "
      ["title_hrv"]=>
      string(17) "Njušketiri - hrt"
      ["mask_eng"]=>
      string(28) "three_musketeers_-_greyhound"
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      string(16) "njusketiri_-_hrt"
      ["content_eng"]=>
      string(3519) "
  
  	  
  
  	For Aramis, who looks like a greyhound, I decided on white fur with large brown spots. I started with white as a base and then used a brown wash to mark where the stains would be. The wig was also a key element for the color selection, and I opted for a darker gray version of Athos's silver gray wig.
  
  	  
  
  	I thickened the stain with layers of lighter and darker brown shades of wash, making sure that the edges of the stains were not completely clearly defined. Afterwards, I used a thin brush to draw out the "hairs" along the edges to depict the direction in which the hairs grow on the fur.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	An additional challenge was the mouth. According to the pictures, the tongue is pink, but the mucous membrane on the inside of the lips is dark brown. I achieved this by layering a brown and black wash over the pink tongue color. The tip of the muzzle is dark gray with lighter highlights on the nostrils.
  
  	  
  
  	An important detail on the muzzle are the darker dots in the places where the strong hairs of the dog's whiskers grow. Of course, the mustache itself is not on the figure, but I tried to depict it with those dark dots.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	I painted the wig with a basic blue-gray shade, and then pulled out the hairs with lighter shades of gray towards the off-white color of the white fur.
  
  	  
  
  	The eyes are like those of Athos, brown iris and black pupil.
  
  	  
  "
      ["content_hrv"]=>
      string(3448) "
  
  	  
  
  	Za Aramisa, koji po izgledu njuške liči na hrtove, odlučio sam se za bijelo krzno sa velikim smeđim mrljama. Započeo sam s bijelom bojom kao osnovom, a zatim sam smeđim washem označio gdje će biti mrlje. Perika je također bila ključan element za odabir boja, a odlučio sam se za tamije sivu varijantu od Athosove srebrno sive perike.
  
  	  
  
  	Slojevima svjetlije i tamnije smeđe nijanse washa podebljao sam mrlju pazeći da rubovi mrlja ne budu potpuno jasno definirani. Naknadno sam tankim kistom izvlačio „dlake“ po rubovima kako bi dočarao smjer u kojem rastu dlake na krznu.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Dodatan izazov su bila usta. Prema slikama jezik je ružičaste boje, no sluzokoža unutarnje strane usnica je tamno smeđa. To sam postigao slojevima smeđeg i crnog washa na ružičastu boju jezika. Vrh njuške je tamno sive boje sa svjetlijim hajlajtima na nosnicama.
  
  	  
  
  	Važan detalj na njušci su i tamnije točkice na mjestima gdje rastu čvrste dlake psećih brkova. Sami brkovi naravno nisu na figuri, no pokušao sam ih dočarati tim tamnim točkicama.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Periku sam bojao osnovno plavosivom nijansom, a zatim izvlačio vlasi svjetlijim nijansama sive prema off-white boji bijelog krzna.
  
  	  
  
  	Oči su kao i kod Athosa, smeđa šarenica i crna zjenica.
  
  	  
  "
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      ["first_name"]=>
      string(9) "Krunoslav"
      ["last_name"]=>
      string(8) "Belinić"
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  Krunoslav Belinić, 5th June 2024

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      ["title_eng"]=>
      string(25) "Freehand - Plane Nose Art"
      ["title_hrv"]=>
      string(30) "Freehand - usta na nosu aviona"
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      string(25) "freehand_-_plane_nose_art"
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      string(535) "
  
  	I made the basic shape in white. After that I traced the outline and filled the bottom half with black. 
  
  	
  
  	I made a "tongue" like a wave shape with red paint and then drew the teeth. The teeth were the hardest in white, so I repaired them several times with other colors.
  "
      ["content_hrv"]=>
      string(541) "
  
  	Napravio sam osnovni oblik u bijeloj boji. Nakon toga sam iscrtao obris i popunio donju polovicu crnom bojom. 
  
  	
  
  	Crvenom bojom sam napravio "jezik" kao formu vala i nakon toga iscrtao zube. Zubi su bili najtezi u bijeloj boji pa sam više puta popravljao s drugim bojama.
  "
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  Mario Grgurev, 24th May 2024

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      ["title_eng"]=>
      string(31) "Three Musketeers – Great Dane"
      ["title_hrv"]=>
      string(27) "Njušketiri – Danska doga"
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      string(2647) "
  
  	The first step in painting the Great Dane (after priming and zenithal) was to cover the surface with off white paint. I applied two semi-transparent layers of paint to keep the zenithal effect visible. Since I decided on white fur with black spots, I chose a blue-gray shade for the base of the spots.
  
  	  
  
  	I thinned it with water until it was sent very viscous and in contact with the base paint on the model it spread into clear spots with sharp dark edges. I made larger and smaller patches, trying to imitate the irregularity of the fur characteristic of that type of dog.
  
  	  
  
  	In the next step, I diluted the same color more and filled in larger spots, covering a smaller area in them. I was careful to leave a visible band of lighter stain underneath. In the penultimate step, I filled in the center of the spots with black, tearing an even smaller area and thus ensuring that the spots are known to be black. I also painted the tip of the muzzle and the parts that are in deep shadow with black. Then I covered the sharp edge of the lightest spots with off white color in places, by drawing thin lines of white color in the direction in which the hair should lie. This gave me the impression that the fur was made up of hairs and broke up the sharp edge of the spots which looks unnatural.
  
  	  
  
  	Finally, I painted the eyes brown (sclera), lighter brown (iris) and black pupil. I also added gray highlights to the nostrils to make them stand out and be more noticeable. It remains to add white highlights to the muzzles and eyes, which should give the impression of moisture, but that is when we have finished everything else and matched them for all the muzzles on the bust.
  
  	  
  "
      ["content_hrv"]=>
      string(2597) "
  
  	Prvi korak u bojanju danske doge (nakon prajmanja i zenitala) je bilo off white bojom prekriti površinu. Nanio sam dva poluprozirna sloja boje kako bi zenital efekt ostao vidljiv. S obzirom da sam se odlučio za bijelo krzno s crnim mrljama odabrao sam plavo sivu nijansu za podlogu mrlja.
  
  	  
  
  	Razrijedio sam je vodom dok nije postala vrlo viskozna te se u kontaktu s baznom bojom na modelu razlila u prozirne mrlje s oštrim tamnim rubovima. Radio sam veće i manje mrlje trudeći se imitirati nepravilnost krzna karakteristične za tu vrstu pasa.
  
  	  
  
  	U idućem koraku istu boju sam manje razrijedio i popunio veće mrlje pokrivši manju površinu u njima. Pazio sam da ostane vidljiv pojas svijetlije mrlje ispod. U predzadnjem koraku crnom bojom sam popunio sredinu mrlja pokivši još manju površinu i tako osigurao da se zna da su mrlje crne. Crnom bojom sam obojao i vrh njuške i dijelove koji su u dubokoj sijeni. Zatim sam off white bojom mjestimično prekrio oštri rub najsvijetlijih mrlja tako da sam tanke linije bijele boje povlačio u smjeru u kojem bi trebala biti polegnuta dlaka. Time sam postigao dojam da se krzno sastoji od dlaka i razbio oštri rub mrlja koji djeluje neprirodno.
  
  	  
  
  	Za kraju sam obojao oči u smeđu boju (bijeloočnica), svjetlije smeđu (šarenica) i crnom zjenicu. Dodao sam i sive hajlajte na nosnice da se istaknu i budu uočljivije. Ostaje još dodati bijele hajlajte na njuške i oči koje bi trebale dati dojam vlage, no to kad završimo sve ostalo i uskladimo ih za sve njuške na bisti.
  
  	  
  "
      ["created"]=>
      string(19) "2024-05-21 14:55:16"
      ["modified"]=>
      string(19) "2024-05-21 14:55:16"
    }
    ["Member"]=>
    array(10) {
      ["id"]=>
      string(2) "64"
      ["group_id"]=>
      string(1) "2"
      ["first_name"]=>
      string(9) "Krunoslav"
      ["last_name"]=>
      string(8) "Belinić"
      ["first_name_mask"]=>
      string(9) "krunoslav"
      ["last_name_mask"]=>
      string(7) "belinic"
      ["username"]=>
      string(5) "Kruno"
      ["password"]=>
      string(40) "eb3fda45fbec0258e90d809803b10491c548b22f"
      ["born"]=>
      string(19) "2015-01-18 09:19:00"
      ["created"]=>
      string(19) "2015-01-18 09:20:39"
    }
  }
          

  Krunoslav Belinić, 21nd May 2024

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      ["id"]=>
      string(3) "385"
      ["member_id"]=>
      string(2) "35"
      ["title_eng"]=>
      string(21) "Roman Shield Freehand"
      ["title_hrv"]=>
      string(37) "Iscrtavanje rimskog štita (freehand)"
      ["mask_eng"]=>
      string(21) "roman_shield_freehand"
      ["mask_hrv"]=>
      string(34) "iscrtavanje_rimskog_stita_freehand"
      ["content_eng"]=>
      string(3759) "
  
  	I will use this article to describe the process of drawing a Roman shield for 54mm miniatures. I won’t be going into the process of painting the basic colours of the shield, just concentrating rather on the freehand itself.
  
  	  
  
  	I found the design that I liked on the internet. I planned to recreate that design with minor changes. The first step was to draw the basic shape with a graphite pen.
  
  	  
  
  	Then, using a darkest shade follow the lines drawn by pen to make the basic shapes. Once, done, fill those shapes with the same paint.
  
  	  
  
  	Check your reference and correct if need be.
  
  	  
  
  	Afterwards, using the ligher shade begin drawing smaller shapes within the darker areas to get the contours of your design.
  
  	  
  
  	Start by drawing the simplest shapes so your hand picks up the motions subconsciously finish with the more complex (wings). Watch out that your shapes (wings for instance) have the same number of elements (feathers).
  
  	  
  
  	Next layer was the first highlight. Similar to the previous step, start drawing the simplest shapes.
  
  	  
  
  	When you finish with this step, check if you are happy with the depth of your freehand. I wasn’t so I continued with the work.
  
  	  
  
  	Using a wash, I added further shadows simulating and accentuating the curvature of the shield.
  
  	  
  
  	In the end, I added the final highlights.
  
  	  
  "
      ["content_hrv"]=>
      string(3834) "
  
  	U ovom ću članku ukratko opisati proces kojim sam iscrtao rimski štit u 54mm mjerilu. Ovdje neću objašnjavati bojanje same crvene površine štita, već samo kako sam izradio freehand.
  
  	  
  
  	Na internetu sam pronašao dizajn koji mi se svidio i kojeg ću uz manje modifikacije pokušati replicirati. Prvi korak je bio iscrtavanje osnovnih oblika običnom olovkom.
  
  	  
  
  	Zatim, najtamnijom bojom prateći linije iscrtane olovkom nacrtajte osnovne oblike te potom popunite bojom oblike.
  
  	  
  
  	Pogledajte vaš dizajn i prema potrebi korigirajte oblik.
  
  	  
  
  	Potom, svjetlijom nijansom krenite iscrtavati manje oblike unutar tamnijih ploha kako biste dodali obrise vašeg dizajna.
  
  	  
  
  	Krenite sa jednostavnijim oblicima i kad vam iscrtavanje “uđe” u ruku, završite sa složenijim (krila). Pri tome, pazite da imate jednak broj elemenata (npr. Pera) po svakom obliku (krilu).
  
  	  
  
  	Sljedeći sloj je prvi highlight. Slično kao i u prethodnom koraku, krenite sa iscrtavanjem sa jednostavnijim oblicima.
  
  	  
  
  	Kad završite, provjerite da li ste zadovoljni sa “dubinom” vašeg freehanda. Ja nisam bio sasvim pa sam nastavio sa radom.
  
  	  
  
  	Koristeći wash, dodao sam dodatne sjene – simulirajući i naglašavajući zakrivljenost površine štita.
  
  	  
  
  	I na kraju sam dodao završne highlighte.
  
  	  
  "
      ["created"]=>
      string(19) "2024-05-16 06:59:04"
      ["modified"]=>
      string(19) "2024-05-16 06:59:04"
    }
    ["Member"]=>
    array(10) {
      ["id"]=>
      string(2) "35"
      ["group_id"]=>
      string(1) "1"
      ["first_name"]=>
      string(5) "Marko"
      ["last_name"]=>
      string(9) "Paunović"
      ["first_name_mask"]=>
      string(5) "marko"
      ["last_name_mask"]=>
      string(8) "paunovic"
      ["username"]=>
      string(5) "marko"
      ["password"]=>
      string(40) "3bd37b326d19d1880d3b93a4b32e8fb3a90fa122"
      ["born"]=>
      string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00"
      ["created"]=>
      string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03"
    }
  }
          

  Marko Paunović, 16th May 2024

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