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Miniature Painting Workshop - Krieger Bust

6th May 2021, posted by Marko Paunović in Workshop announcements

MPC Spring Painting Competition 2021

Event date: 18th April 2021, 14:41h - 30th June 2021, 23:59h 18th April 2021, posted by Marko Paunović in Events

For more info visit us on FB.

Hobby Corner on Wednesday 2021

2nd April 2021, posted by Marko Paunović in Workshop announcements

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Latest articles

Krieger Bust – Painting the Metal and Leather

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	In this article, I will briefly describe the process of painting metal surfaces (with weathering) and leather parts on a Krieger bust. The photos were taken during the painting of the sample model for the weekend Miniature Painting Workshop held in May. You can read more about the Workshop here.

	  

	For the needs of the workshop, DiyConnect printed the busts in high quality resin. After minimal preparatory work, they were easy to assemble and ready to paint.

	  

	First, I sprayed the sample with two sprays. Black to start then white so that black remains in the recesses.

	  

	METAL PARTS

	  

	
		- All metal surfaces were painted black.
	
		- Then silver with a coat of black wash.
	
		- Oils were used to add rust (Ammo Oilbrushers: Rust i Orange with Odourless Thinnerom)
	
		- Once the oils have dries, I covered all the metal surfaces randomly with Chipping and Streaking fluids and left them to dry for about 10 mins. After that drying period, I covered everything with blue paint and again left it to dry for about 10 mins.
	
		- Last step is to moisten everything and using a sturdy brush and soft que tip to remove blotches of blue paint leaving rusty metal underneath.
	
		- To add even more character, I added some final highlights. Pure silver for the metal parts and lighter blue for the painted parts of the metal.


	 

	LEATHER SURFACES

	I decided that the leather parts should be in two shades, lighter and darker, and I set to work accordingly.

	  

	
		- First I painted the darker parts in a medium brown shade.
	
		- Then I covered these parts with brown wash and thus made a sufficient difference in shade compared to the lighter parts.
	
		- So I could now use the same paints across all leather surfaces. I went over everything with sepia wash.
	
		- Several layers of sepia, brown and black washes followed. The first layers can be random (but watch out for merging into “puddles”), while later layers should be drawn with thought about where the light falls.
	
		- When I was happy with the tones, weathering ensued. I drew the damage with some ashy paints. I additionally emphasized the deeper damages with a black line - a shadow.
	
		- Of course, the whole process I did simultaneously on the backpack in the back.


	 

	The whole bust, after the painting process, ended like this.

	  
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	U ovom ću članku ukratko opisati proces bojanja metalnih površina (sa weatheringom) i kožnih dijelova na bisti Kriegera. Fotografije su napravljene tijekom bojanja oglednog primjerka za vikend Radionicu bojanja minijatura koja se održavala u svibnju. Više o Radionici možete pročitati ovdje.

	  

	Biste za potrebe radionice nam je isprintao DiyConnect u kvalitetnom rezinu. Nakon minimalnih pripremnih radnji, bile su jednostavne za složiti i spremne za bojanje.

	  

	Prvo sam ogledni primjerak posprejao sa dva spreja. Prvo crnim, a onda bijelim tako da u udubinama ostane crne boje.

	  

	METALNI DIJELOVI

	  

	
		- Sve metalne dijelove sam obojao u crno.
	
		- Zatim u srebrnu nijansu sa crnim wash-em.
	
		- Zatim sam sa uljima dodao hrđu (Ammo Oilbrusheri: Rust i Orange sa Odourless Thinnerom)
	
		- Kada se osušilo ulje, prekrio sam sve naizmjence Chipping i Streaking fluidom i ostavio da se osuši 10ak minuta. Nakon sušenja sam prekrio sve dijelove plavom bojom i pustio da se 10ak minuta osuši.
	
		- Zatim sam namočio sve vodom i lagano sa kistom i štapićem za uši poskidao dijelove boje.
	
		- Na kraju, dodao sam hajlajte sa srebrnom bojom na oguljenom metalu, a svijetlijom plavom na obojenim dijelovima.


	 

	KOŽNI DIJELOVI

	Odlučio sam se da kožni dijelovi budu u dvije nijanse, svijetlija i tamnija te sam shodno tome prionuo poslu.

	  

	
		- Prvo sam tamnije dijelove obojao u srednje tamnu smeđu nijansu.
	
		- Zatim sam te dijelove i washao smeđim washem te time ostvario dovoljnu razliku u nijansi u odnosu na svijetlije dijelove.
	
		- Stoga sam sada mogao preko svih površina izvlačiti iste poteze. Preko svega sam prešao sa sepia washem
	
		- Uslijedilo je nekoliko slojeva sepia, smeđih i crnih washeva. Prvi slojevi mogu biti nasumični (ali pripazite na sljevanje u “lokvice”), dok kasnije slojeve treba izvlačiti sa razmišljanjem gdje svijetlo pada.
	
		- Kada sam bio zadovoljan sa tonovima, uslijedilo je weatheranje. Nekom pepelastom nijansom sam iscrtavao oštećenja. Dublja oštećenja sam dodatno naglasio sa crnom crtom – sjenom.
	
		- Cijeli proces naravno sam radio paralelno in a ruksaku sa leđa.


	 

	A cijela bista, kada je gotova, izgleda ovako.

	  
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Marko Paunović, 17th June 2021

Marko’s Top Tip – Painting Eyes 101

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	Since I’ve been getting a few queries lately on how to paint my eyes, here’s a brief step-by-step description of how to paint the eyes with minimal chance of mistakes. In this way, the possibility of your mini becoming crosseyed is reduced to the minimum and the possibility of errors (brush slippage) is minimized.

	
		
			
				
					

					

					1. Two horizontal lines with an "off white" shade.
				
					

					2. Two vertical lines of the color you want your iris to be.
				
					

					3. Black dots or thinner vertical lines in the middle of the iris.
				
					

					4. The upper arches of the eyes with black or some dark color.
				
					

					5. The lower arches of the eyes with black or some dark color.
				
					

					6. LARGER SCALE ONLY, a red dot in the inner corners of the eyes (use a wash, not pure paint).
				
					

					7. Paint the skin around the eyes and continue painting the face.
			
			
				

				 
		
	
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	S obzirom da sam u zadnje vrijeme dobio nekoliko upita kako bojati oči, evo kratki opis korak po korak kako najjednostavnije (sa minimalnim šansama za zeznuti) obojati oči. Ovim načinom, smanjuje se mogućnost razrokosti i minimizira se mogućnost grešaka.

	
		
			
				
					 
				
					1. Dvije vodoravne crte sa nekom “off white” nijansom.
				
					 
				
					2. Dvije okomite crte bojom koju želite da vam šarenice budu.
				
					 
				
					3. Za zjenice - crne točke ili tanje okomite crte posred šarenice.
				
					 
				
					4. Gornje lukove očiju crnom ili nekom tamnom bojom.
				
					 
				
					5. Donje lukove očiju crnom ili nekom tamnom bojom.
				
					 
				
					6. U većim mjerilima, crvena točka u unutarnje čoškove očiju (koristite wash, ne čistu boju).
				
					 
				
					7. Bojom kože obojajte oko očiju i nastavite bojati lice.
			
			
				

				
		
	
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Marko Paunović, 9th June 2021

Making a stone base for a larger, mounted miniature

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	In today's hobby tutorial I will show you how to assemble a stone base for a larger / mounted figure. I will also show you what to pay attention to and what not to do so as not to repeat my mistakes.

	The base I am talking about is 5x5cm, the so-called monster base from the old WHFB. I have some stones for the aquarium from previous unfinished projects, so I decided to use them for this base in smaller quantities.

	Let's start with the mistake. Since this base eventually turned out to be a desert color palette, it should contain almost exclusively broken and sharp stones. As you can see, and as Marko pointed out to me, this huge round stone at the bottom of the base looks like a cistern.

	  

	This round stone is a good example if you are going to work on a base where there is a lot of moisture and / or where you want to make water, because from water and other stone stones the stone gets such a shape.

	  

	  

	Then I started adding extra texture and details to and between the stones, for that I used coarse, medium and fine Gale Force 9 sand, as well as chinchilla sand, and finally slate that breaks very easily and gives a very faithful chipped texture wherever put it on the base.

	Here it is very important to note that in places where these granulations of sand are combined, first start with the largest, then with medium and fine, and finally with sand for chinchillas. The reason for this approach is that otherwise the finest sand would fill all the cracks, and the rest of the sand would have nothing to accept. After finishing the texturing, I started painting the whole scene.

	Despite the look, I intended to make darker and wetter tones on the base, however, since I used drybrush as a technique, gradually everything turned out brighter and brighter, so I am very pleased with the result. The key to the drybrush approach is to use earthy and gradually lighter, red-yellow-brown tones.

	  

	  

	What needs to be kept in mind for the opposite approach is the use of dark washes and oil paints to gradually darken the key areas of the stones from the basic lighter color (white or lighter gray) to create a dark illusion.
"
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	U današnjem hobi tutorialu ću vam pokazati kako složiti kamenu bazu za veću/mounted figuru. Također ću vam pokazati na što treba obratiti pažnju i što ne raditi da ne ponovite moje greške.

	Baza o kojoj govorim je 5x5cm, tzv. monster baza iz starog WHFB. Imam nešto kamenja za akvarij od prethodnih nedovršenih projekata, te sam ga odlučio iskoristiti za ovu bazu u manjoj količini.

	Prvo krenimo sa pogreškom. Obzirom da je ova baza na kraju ispala pustinjske palete boja, na njoj bi se trebalo nalaziti gotovo isključivo otkrhnuto i oštro kamenje. Kao što vidite, te kao što mi je Marko napomenuo, ovaj golemi obli kamen pri dnu baze izgleda kao cisterna.

	  

	Ovakvo oblo kamenje je dobar primjer ako idete raditi bazu gdje je dosta vlage i/ili gdje želite napraviti vodu, jer od vode i drugog oblog kamenja kamenje dobiva takav oblik.

	  

	  

	Zatim sam krenuo dodavati dodatnu teksturu i detalje na i između kamenja, za to sam koristio krupni, srednji i fini Gale Force 9 pijesak, kao i pijesak za činčile, te naposlijetku škriljevac koji se vrlo lako lomi i koji daje vrlo vjernu otkrhnutu teksturu gdje god ga se na bazu stavi.

	Ovdje je jako važno napomenuti da se na mjestima gdje se ove granulacije pijeska kombiniraju, prvo krene sa najkrupnijim, zatim sa srednjim i finim, te naposlijetku pijeskom za činčile. Razlog ovakvom pristupu je taj što bi u suprotnom slučaju najfiniji pijesak popunio sve pukotine, te se ostatak pijeska ne bi imao za što prihvatiti. Nakon gotovog teksturiranja sam krenuo farbati cijelu scenu.

	Unatoč izgledu, imao sam namjeru napraviti tamnije i vlažnije tonove na bazi, međutim, obzirom da sam koristio drybrush kao tehniku, postepeno je sve ispadalo sve svjetlije i svjetlije, tako da sam vrlo zadovoljan rezultatom. Ključ drybrush pristupa jest taj da se koriste zemljani i postepeno svjetliji, crveno-žuto-smeđi tonovi.

	  

	  

	Ono što je za suprotni pristup potrebno imati na umu je korištenje tamnih wash-eva i uljanih boja da se od osnovne svjetlije boje (bijela ili svjetlije siva) postepeno potamnjuje ključna područja kamenja kako bi se stvorila tamna iluzija.
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Goran Krunić, 1nd June 2021

Hobby articles and step-by-step tutorials in the first 5 months of 2021

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	Since the onset of the Covid-19 crisis in 2020, UMS Agram members started writing hobby articles and step-by-step tutorials on their work. Also, the Miniature Painters Croatia FB group have joined in the action. This practise has continued in 2021 as well. The full list of articles can be found here.

	In the first five months od 2021, we’ve published 21 texts, 12 of which are hobby articles, 4 top tips and a saga of (so far) 5 episodes.

	Articles listed are in chronological order.

	
		Working with Resin Jure Cukar


	  

	
		Austrian Pikeman Dalibor Čavić


	  

	
		Postapoc taxi – part 1 Dalibor Čavić


	  

	
		Postapoc taxi – part 2 Dalibor Čavić


	  

	
		Black Annis bust – part 1 Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Stormcast Sequitor with a dog Ana Polanšćak


	  

	
		Black Annis bust – part 2 Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Painting Industrial Bases Dalibor Čavić


	  

	
		Black Annis bust – part 3 Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Black Annis bust – part 4 Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Step by Step – Italy 1986 Diorama pt 7 – Painting of bricks and stone Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Making a vignette for Wyrd Spring Competition – part 1: Making a wire tree Matija Koružnjak


	  

	This year’s Top Tips:

	
		Marko's TOP-TIP: Ikea - the best non-hobby store for hobby Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Marko’s Top Tip Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Marko's Wife's Top Tip: DIY decals Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Marko’s Top Tip – How to make your own plinth for a bust Marko Paunović


	  

	And in the end, a new, The Bust Saga.

	
		The Bust Saga (part 1) Marko Paunović


	  

	
		The Bust Saga (part 2) Goran Krunić


	  

	
		The Bust Saga (part 3) Marko Paunović


	  

	
		The Bust Saga (part 4) Goran Krunić


	  

	
		The Bust Saga (part 5) Goran Krunić


	  
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	Od izbijanja krize sa Covid-19 virusom u 2020., članovi UMS “Agram” su podijelili sa nama svoje radove i napisali članke o njihovoj izradi. Akciji su se pridružili i članovi FB grupe Miniature Painters Croatia. S tom praksom smo nastavili i u 2021. Cjeloviti popis svih članaka možete naći ovdje.

	Do sada je u ovih pet mjeseci objavljen 21 članak,od čega 12 hobby članaka, 4 top tipova i započeta je “saga” od (za sada) 5 članaka.

	U nastavku su kronološkim redosljedom poredani članci kako biste im lakše pristupili.

	
		Rad s rezinom Jure Cukar


	  

	
		Austrijski kopljonoša Dalibor Čavić


	  

	
		Postapokaliptični taksi – dio 1 Dalibor Čavić


	  

	
		Postapokaliptični taksi – dio 2 Dalibor Čavić


	  

	
		Black Annis bista – dio 1 Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Stormcast Sequitor s psom Ana Polanšćak


	  

	
		Black Annis bista – dio 2 Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Bojanje baza industrijske tematike Dalibor Čavić


	  

	
		Black Annis bista – dio 3 Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Black Annis bista – dio 4 Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Diorama: Italija 1986. - dio 7 – početak bojanja (cigle i kamen) Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Izrada vinjete za Wyrd Spring Competition – dio 1: Izrada drveta Matija Koružnjak


	  

	Ovogodišnji top tipovi:

	
		Markov TOP-TIP: Ikea – najbolja ne-hobby trgovina za hobby Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Markov Top Tip Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Top Tip Markove žene: kako napraviti dekal bez dekala Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Markov Top Tip – kako napraviti vlastito postolje za bistu Marko Paunović


	  

	I na kraju, nova, Saga o bistekima.

	
		Saga o bistekima (dio 1) Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Saga o bistekima (dio 2) Goran Krunić


	  

	
		Saga o bistekima (dio 3) Marko Paunović


	  

	
		Saga o bistekima (dio 4) Goran Krunić


	  

	
		Saga o bistekima (dio 5) Goran Krunić


	  
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Marko Paunović, 27th May 2021

Miniature Painting Workshop - Krieger Bust

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"
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	Radionica bojanja minijatura - bista Kriegera se održala tijekom vikenda 22.-23.05.2021. u kino dvorani Zagrebačke zajednice tehničke kulture na Trgu žrtava fašizma 14. Oba dana radionica je trajala od 10 - 18h i sveukupno je bilo 10 polaznika koji su bojali bistu Death Guard of Krieg.

	

	

	

	Radionica se provodila tijekom cijelog vikenda i polaznici su bojali bistu Kriegera. Glavni fokus ovih predavanja bit će bojanje kamuflaže, tekstura grubog tekstila, kožnatih tekstura, metala i weatheringa. Time vođeni, voditelji su izabrali prikladnu postapokaliptičnu bistu koju će svi polaznici bojati. U sklopu radionice, korištene su akrilne boje i uljni efekti.

	

	

	Predavanja su bila prilagodena tako da su voditelji posvetiti jednako vrijeme svim polaznicima i mogli su se prilagoditi svim kategorijama minijaturista (od početnika do malo naprednijih). 

	

	

	

	

	Radionica se odvijala na sljedeći način:

	Prvo, predavač sjedi za svojim stolom te objašnjava i demonstrira pojedini korak u bojanju minijature/makete na svojem primjerku. Njegov rad se preko kamere i projektora prikazuje na platnu što polaznici slušaju, gledaju, ali i postavljaju pitanja. Potom, polaznici sjedaju za svoje stolove i primjenjuju stečeno znanje. Ana i Marko kruže izmedu polaznika i provjeravaju kako svakom polazniku ide. Na taj način, mogu se prilagoditi svakom polazniku ponaosob.

	

	

	

	Radionica je uključivala sljedeće tematske cjeline:

	1. Postavljanje biste na bazu

	2. Pripremni radovi na bisti te temeljna boja

	3. Bojanje tekstila i naknadno kamuflaže

	4. Metalni dijelovi i weathering

	5. Kožnati remeni i futrole

	6. Naočale sa odsjajem

	7. Postavljanje naljepnica

	

	

	Tijekom trajanja radionice primjenjivale su se sve propisane EPIDEMIOLOŠKE MJERE:

	Ispravno nošenje maski je bilo obavezno.

	Dezinficijens je bio na raspolaganju svima.

	Od ove godine koristimo kameru i projekcijsko platno kako bismo pokazali rad predavača svim polaznicima bez potrebe da se oni okupljaju oko predavača što omogućava socijalnu distancu.

	Svaki polaznik imao je svoj stol koji je bio razmaknut propisanim razmakom.

	

	

	

	

	

	

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Marko Paunović, 26th May 2021

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