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Hobby Corner on Wednesday 2021

2nd April 2021, posted by Marko Paunović in Workshop announcements

Agram Atmosphere 2021

Event date: 1nd April 2021, 10:39h - 1nd December 2021, 22:39h 31nd March 2021, posted by Marko Paunović in Events

Grand Opening of the annual Exhibition of Miniatures and Tabletop Scenery Agram 2021

Event date: 18th February 2021, 18:00h - 18th February 2021, 20:00h 14th February 2021, posted by Marko Paunović in Events

Dear Friends,

You are invited to the grand opening of our Exhibition of Miniatures and Tabletop Scenery Agram 2021 which will take place on Thursday, 18.2.2021 starting at 18:00.

The Exhibition is organised for our 18th birthday, and during the opening we will hold an unveiling of our newest books:
- Miniaturism in the Age of Corona (Collection of Articles about Miniaturism and Modelling), Authors: Marko Paunović, Ana Polanšćak, Goran Krunić, Jure Cukar, Matija Koružnjak, Da...

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Latest articles

The Bust Saga (part 2)

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If you are a bit older and from Zagreb, you probably remember Saga o Pičekima? If not, the joke will elude you. Well, hopefully beside the Croatian pun, you will like the rest of this saga. Goran and Marko will take you on a miniature painting journey while they build and paint one and the same bust for their Admin Challenge. Why call it a saga? Because everyone who knows them knows this will take a while to finish.... They chose a bust by Crecy Models that comes in two options – as King Ladislav Jagellone and as Grand Master of Teutonic Order Ulrich von Jungingen. Goran and Marko will do different versions...

GORAN: The first thing I did today, while still at home, was attaching the bust to a plinth. I cut a piece of steel rod 3mm thick and 5-6cm long, for which I then drilled holes in the bust and on the stand. I drilled both the bust and the stand several times, due to insufficient depth and insufficient vertical drilling angle.

MARKO: Unlike Goran, I fixed my bust to a makeshift base with a makeshift pin so I skipped wrapping the bust in masking tape (he will explain the process) and immediately started spraying. Luckily, I found some old cardboard box in which we could spray at will with an open window for ventilation. We used black spray that I brought from Slunj. It's so matte it's gray: D

GORAN: Then, immediately after arriving at the hobby corner, I began to protect both the stand and the exposed part of the bar with masking tape. The reason is that I don't want the stand and the bar to turn black when applying the black primer. I applied the basic black layer of paint with even movements, at a distance of 25-30 cm from the miniature, in a box that Marko found and which served excellently to protect the surrounding inventory from paint stains.

MARKO: The first thing I set out to paint were the messiest parts - in this case chainmail. Two silver colors (S75 Heavy Metal and Trash Metal). I drybrushed first with a darker shade and then with a lighter one. Then I covered everything I messed up over the line with black paint. When it dried, I ran a mixture of brown and red over the robe and shield (cloak holder). These parts will go red as on the boxart. The cloak will certainly not be red. I will still see what color I will put it in (I have to explore a little the coats of arms and colors of Ladislav Jagellone)…

GORAN: Then I set out to put the basecoat on the Grand Master of the Teutonic Knights. Since I don't have much experience with combining colors or coloring such large scale miniatures, I decided to try to work out the "official" color scheme available on their website as closely as possible (https://crecymodels.com/catalogue/grand- master-ulrich-von-jungingen /). I started with gold details, first I painted the upper rim of the bar on the chest armor in Scale75 Dwarven Gold, and the rest of that part, as well as the edges of the round cloak clasps, and the outer edge of the raised visor in Scale75 Elven Gold.

After that I started to paint the beard in Dubai Brown color by Scale75, it is not bad to mention here that some browns (like this one) and gray (Rainy Brown) have a weak consistency, so I do not recommend diluting them at all. Then I went to paint the cloak, the largest surface on this figure, in the aforementioned Rainy Gray, along with the shields above the round cloak buckles. The problem with “whiter” colors is that, due to the finer pigment, their coverage is weaker, so the recommendation of "internet wisdom" is to start with a medium to lighter gray color. All in all, I am satisfied with what has been achieved, although, knowing my patience, ie lack of it, I am most afraid of the cloak and the mentioned shields, since it will require effort because it is a lighter color.

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Sjećate se Sage o Pičekima? E pa ovo je naša verzija. Goran i Marko su naši Pičeki i nadamo se da će vas zabaviti svojim pričama o slaganju i bojanju jedne te iste biste u njihovom Admin Challenge-u. Zašto saga? Jer imamo dojam da će njihova rabota potrajati izvijesno vrijeme... Za sve vas koji se pitate, bista koju bojaju je od tvtke Crecy Models i dolazi u obje opcije – kao kralj Ladislav Jagelović i kao Veliki Meštar teutonskog reda Ulrich von Jungingen. Zbog raznolikosti, Pičeki su se dogovorili da će raditi različite verzije.

GORAN: Prvo čime sam se danas bavio, još kod kuće je pričvršćivanje biste na stalak (engl. plinth). Izrezao sam komad čelične šipke debljine 3mm i dužine 5-6cm, za koju sam potom izbušio rupe u bisti i na stalku. I bistu i stalak sam u više navrata bušio, što zbog nedovoljne dubine, što zbog nedovoljno okomitog kuta bušenja.

MARKO: Za razliku od Gorana, ja sam svoju bistu fiksirao na provizornu bazu sa provizornim štiftom tako da sam preskočio zamatanje biste u krep traku (taj proces će on objasniti) i odmah sam prionuo na sprejanje. Na sreću, našao sam nekakvu staru kutiju u kojoj smo mogli špricat do mile volje uz otvoreni prozor radi provjetravanja. Koristili smo crni sprej kojeg sam dopelao iz Slunja. Toliko je mat, da je siv :D

GORAN: Zatim sam, odmah nakon dolaska na hobi kutak, prionuo zaštititi i stalak i izloženi dio šipke krep trakom. Razlog je taj što ne želim da se prilikom nanošenja temeljnog sloja crne boje (engl. primer), stalak i šipka zacrne. Temeljni crni sloj boje sam nanosio ujednačenim pokretima, na udaljenosti 25-30cm od minijature, u kutiji koju je Marko našao i koja je izvrsno poslužila za zaštitu okolnog inventara od mrlja boje.

MARKO: Prvo što sam krenuo bojati su najneuredniji dijelovi – u ovom slučaju chainmail. Dve srebrne boje (S75 Heavy Metal i Trash Metal). Prvo s tamnijom nijansom i onda sa svijetlijom. Potom sam sve što sam zamuljao preko crte, prekrio sa crnom bojom. Kad se osušilo, nekom mješavinom smeđe-crvene sam prešao preko halje i štitića (držača plašta). Ti dijelovi će ići u crveno kao i na boxartu. Plašt neće sigurno biti crveni. Još ću vidjeti u koju boju ću ga staviti (moram istražiti malo grbove i boje Ladislava Jagelovića)…

GORAN: Onda sam krenuo u stavljanje osnovnih slojeva (engl. basecoat) na Velikog meštra Teutonskih vitezova. Obzirom da nemam previše iskustva, kako sa kombiniranjem boja, tako niti sa bojanjem ovako velikih mjerila minijatura, odlučio sam pokušati što je moguće bliže odraditi "službenu" shemu boja dostupnu na njihovoj stranici (https://crecymodels.com/catalogue/grand-master-ulrich-von-jungingen/). Krenuo sam sa zlatnim detaljima, prvo sam gornji obod prečke na prsnom oklopu obojao u Dwarven Gold boju tvrtke Scale75, te sam ostatak tog dijela, kao i rubove okruglih kopči plašta, te vanjski rub podignutog vizira u Elven Gold od Scale75.

Nakon toga sam krenuo bradu bojati u boju Dubai Brown od Scale75, ovdje nije loše spomenuti da pojedine smeđe (poput ove) i sive boje (Rainy Brown) imaju slabu konzistenciju, te ih ne preporučam razrjeđivati uopće. Zatim sam plašt, najveću površinu na ovoj figuri, krenuo bojati u spomenutu Rainy Gray, zajedno sa štitovima iznad okruglih kopči od plašta. Problem sa bjelijim bojama je taj što im je, uslijed sitnijeg pigmenta, pokrivnost slabija, stoga je preporuka "internetske mudrosti" krenuti sa nekom srednjom do svjetlijom sivom bojom. Sve u svemu, zadovoljan sam postignutim, iako, znajući svoje strpljenje, tj. nedostatak istog, najviše se bojim plašta i spomenutih štitova, obzirom da će iziskivati truda jer je riječ o svjetlijim bojama.

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Goran Krunić, 15th April 2021

Black Annis bust – part 3

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	In this series of articles I will describe the work performed on a diorama whose main character is a bust called Black Annis. It is manufactured by a company called Massive Miniatures and I built the diorama for an Admin Challenge on our FB group Miniature Painters Croatia agains Ana Polanšćak.

	In the last article, I stopped at the finished bits for the base frame and prepared three bottles. In this article I will describe how I made one bottle of "GW paint", one spilled bottle of "GW paint" and a glass of dirty water for cleaning brushes.

	First I needed a design for a “medieval” inscription for GW paints. I made the design on a computer and printed it out on a laser printer. Since I wasn’t sure what size of label I needed, I made both labels (Nuln Oil and Bloodletter) in several sizes.

	  

	Then I mixed in the resin. The resin I use most often is Gedeo Crystal Resin because it comes in a convenient, practical package, but also because it mixes in a 1: 2 volume ratio, which makes the job much easier.

	  

	When I had mixed the two components well (it becomes a dull color), I added a drop or two of black paint for glass (in my case Pebeo Vitrail) and mixed well again until I got a uniform mixture.

	  

	I then poured this mixture into a bottle of the would-be dirty water and carefully positioned the brush and let it dry. Then I added a little more black paint to the mixture (to get a more intense color for Nuln Oil). I first poured a little on the tabletop and used the resin to glue the overturned bottle into which I carefully poured the mixture of the resin to solidify but not leak out.

	  

	When teh resin was dry, I cut out the labels for the bottles and decided on the size.

	  

	I coated them on the underside with a thin layer of PVA glue and glued so the inscription could be seen.

	  

	For the end I poured pure Tamiya Clear Red to half the height of the Bloodletter paint bottle. I then glued the cork stopper so that the paint would not leak. In this way, the color in the bottle is still liquid which is seen during the movement of the whole diorama.

	  
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	U ovoj seriji članaka opisivat ću rad na diorami čija je glavna akterica bista Black Annis. Bistu proizvodi Massive Miniatures, a radio sam ju za Admin Challenge na FB grupi Miniature Painters Croatia protiv Ane Polanšćak.

	U prošlom članku sam stao na završenim bitsima za okvir baze i pripremio sam tri bočice. U ovom članku ću opisati kako sam napravio jednu bočicu „GW boje“, jednu prolivenu bočicu „GW boje“ te čašicu sa prljavom vodom za čišćenje kistova.

	Prvo mi je trebao dizajn za „srednjevjekovni“ natpis za GW boje. Dizajn sam izradio na kompjuteru te isprintao na laserskom printeru. S obzirom da nisam bio siguran koju veličinu natpisa trebam, izradio sam oba natpisa (Nuln Oil i Bloodletter) u nekoliko veličina.

	  

	Zatim sam umiješao rezin. Najčešći rezin koji koristim je Gedeo Crystal Resin jer dolazi u zgodnom, praktičnom pakiranju, ali i jer se miješa u volumnom odnosu 1:2 što znatno olakšava posao.

	  

	Kad sam dobro umiješao dvije komponente (postane mutne boje), ubacio sam kap, dvije crne boje za staklo (u mom slučaju Pebeo Vitrail) i opet dobro promiješao dok nisam dobio jednoliku smjesu.

	  

	Zatim sam tu smjesu ulio u bočicu sa zmazanom vodom i pažljivo pozicionirao kist i pusti da se osuši. Zatim sam dodao malo više crne boje u smjesu (da dobijem intenzivniju boju za Nuln Oil). Prvo sam malo izlio na dasku stola i iskoristio rezin da zalijepi prevrnutu bočicu u koju sam pažljivo nalio smjesu rezina da se skruti, ali da ne iscuri.

	  

	Kad se sve osušilo, izrezao sam natpise za bočice i odlučio se za veličinu.

	  

	Premazao sam ih s donje strane sa tankim slojem PVA ljepila i zalijepio tako da se vidi natpis.

	  

	Za kraj sam ulio čisti Tamiya Clear Red do pola visine bočice Bloodletter boje. Čep od pluta sam potom zalijepio da boja ne curi. Na taj način, boja u bočici je i dalje tekuća što se vidi tijekom pomicanja cijele diorame.

	  
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Marko Paunović, 13th April 2021

The Bust Saga (part 1)

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MARKO: When an announcement about this bust (King Ladislav version) hit me on FB, I knew I had to pick it up ... And Goran didn't need much persuasion either. As soon as he agreed, the idea of a new Admin Challenge was born for the FB group Miniature Painters Croatia ... In fact, Goran proposed it, and given (at that time) the situation of calming down with Corona and decreasing numbers of infected, we decided to work exclusively on Wednesdays during Hobby Corner on Wednesdays - motivation, learning, socializing, who knows, maybe we'll make a video clip or two... Before any serious work, I like to assemble things I'm about to use (in this case, the clean and uncluttered table is a big help) ...

GORAN: In this Admin challenge, I chose to build my bust as the Teutonic Grand Master. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to go to the hardware store to get some kind of rod with which to attach the bust to the stand, but I will try to do it by next time.

MARKO: The first thing I noticed in this set is that the crown will be difficult to separate from the "core" without damage. For some reason, the crown has an "podium" on the entire lower part that needs to be removed, and it seems firmer than any part of the crown.

The first thing that came to my mind was a circular saw on my Proxxon. However, as soon as I started, albeit at the lowest ratio, the resin started to melt from the heat, and the vibrations were strong as well.

So I gave up that option and tried it with a very sharp scalpel. This was accomplished with a great deal of care not to force the blade through the material.

GORAN: I started working on the bust by using several types of scalpel blades to remove debris and artifacts from what I assumed to be a prototype cast, which, I also assume, was made by 3D printing in resin. Then I started to remove the large debris on the cloak of the bust, which took me the most time, because it is an irregular surface with a lot of curvature and unevenness.

MARKO: Since Goran described the removal of the excess material, I will omit that part. The last thing I did was drill a hole in the bottom of the bust and the same on the makeshift wooden base.

The idea is to do the painting with this base - even if I get paint on it, who cares, and when I'm done with the work, I'll put the bust on the plinth I intend to use.

GORAN: In the end, I glued the cloak holders and decorative shields, and the helmet visor, which came off as soon as I stored the figure in the box, so I’ll have to come up with some more permanent solution to attach it.

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MARKO: Kad mi je na FB izletila objava o ovoj bisti (verzija kralja Ladislava) znao sam da si ju moram piknut... A ni Gorana nije trebalo puno nagovarati. A čim je pristao, rodila se ideja i o novom Admin Challenge-u na FB grupi Miniature Painters Croatia... Dapače, Goran ju je predložio, a s obzirom na (u to doba) smirivanje situacije s Coronom i sve manjim brojevima, odlučili smo raditi isključivo srijedama u terminu Hobby kutka srijedom – motivacija, učenje, druženje, a tko zna, možda snimimo i kakav filmić... Prije svakog ozbiljnog posla, volim posložiti stvari koje ću koristiti (a u ovom slučaju nezakrčenost stola je uvelike pomogla)...

GORAN: U ovom Admin challenge-u sam odabrao svoju bistu složiti kao Teutonskog velikog Meštra. Nažalost, nisam stigao otići u željeznariju nabaviti nekakvu šipku kojom bih bistu pričvrstio na stalak, ali ću se to do idućeg termina potruditi napraviti.

MARKO: Prvo što sam primjetio u ovom setu je da će krunu biti teško odvojiti od „srha“ bez oštećenja. Iz nekog razloga, kruna na cijelom donjem dijelu ima „podest“ kojeg treba maknuti, a on se čini čvršći od bilo kojeg dijela krune.

Prvo što mi je palo na pamet je bio cirkular na Proxxonici. Međutim, čim sam krenuo, iako na najmanjem broju okreta, rezin se krenuo rastapati od topline, a i vibracije su bile jake.

Stoga sam odustao od te opcije i probao sa jako oštrim skalpelom. To je uspjelo uz jako puno pažnje da se ne sili oštrica kroz materijal.

GORAN: Rad na bisti sam počeo tako što sam krenuo sa nekoliko vrsta skalpelskih oštrica skidati srhove i artefakte od onog što sam pretpostavio da je prototipni odljev, koji je, isto tako pretpostavljam, napravljen 3d printanjem u smoli. Zatim sam prionuo skidanju velikog srha na plaštu biste, što mi je i oduzelo najviše vremena, jer je riječ o nepravilnoj površini sa puno krivudanja i neravnina.

MARKO: S obzirom da je Goran opisao skidanje srhova, ja ću taj dio izostaviti. Zadnje što sam učinio je da sam izbušio rupu na bisti za šipku i istu takvu rupu na provizornoj bazi.

Ideja je da bojanje odradim s ovom bazom – pa ak ju zaprljam koga briga, a kad završim da ju postavim na pravu bazu (plinth).

GORAN: Na kraju sam zalijepio držače plašta i ukrasne štitove, te vizir od kacige, koji se odlijepio čim sam figuru pohranio u kutiju, tako da ću morati smisliti neko trajnije rješenje za pričvršćivanje istog.

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Marko Paunović, 10th April 2021

Painting Industrial Bases

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	Here's step by step how I've painted industrial bases from Necromunda set Plalanite Subjugator Patrol.

	After cleaning, washing and priming I've painted bases with old Citadel metallic paint Boltgun Metal. I think that any standard metallic paint will do (e.g. Vallejo Steel).

	  

	After that I gave them generous amount of dark wash. Nuln Oil in this case, but again, any will do.

	  

	This is my magic "secret" when I paint rust. Rust Set from Secret Weapon (USA) is amazing product. I've started with darkest and finished with lightest. I was applying it with sponge.

	  

	Then I started to work on hazard stripes. Firstly, I painted yellow base.

	  

	Next thing was to mask parts that I wanted to remain yellow. I've used 2mm Ammo by Mig masking tape.

	  

	After painting black, I've removed masking tape and I've applied some yellow with sponge on black parts and some Boltgun Metal on all hazard stripes.

	  

	Finally, I did some more washing and weathering as explained above. I've painted sides of bases in black and I gave nice coat of varnish to all 6 bases. And here is final result:

	  
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	U ovom članku opisujem kako sam bojao industrijske baze iz Necromunda seta pod nazivom Plalanite Subjugator Patrol.

	Nakon čišćenja, pranja i undercoatanja baze sam obojaoo starom metalnom bojom Citadel Boltgun Metal. Mislim da će isti efekt imati bilo koja standardna metalna boja (npr. Vallejo Steel).

	  

	Nakon toga premazao sam ih izdašnom količinom tamnog washa - Nuln Oila, u ovom slučaju, ali opet, bilo koji će poslužiti.

	  

	Ovo je moja čarobna „tajna“ kada bojam hrđu. Rust Set od Secret Weapon Miniatures (SAD) nevjerojatan je proizvod. Počeo sam s najtamnijom, a završio s najsvijetlijom nijansom. Nanosio sam boju spužvom.

	  

	Tada sam počeo raditi na znakovima opasnosti (žuto-crne pruge). Prvo sam obojao žutu podlogu.

	  

	Sljedeći korak bio je maskiranje dijelova za koje sam želio da ostanu žuti. Koristio sam 2 mm zaštitnu traku tvrtke Ammo by Mig.

	  

	Nakon farbanja u crno, uklonio sam zaštitnu traku i nanio sam žutu boju spužvom na crne dijelove, a malo Boltgun Metala preko svih površina na oznakama.

	  

	Na kraju sam dodao još washeva i weatheringa na isti način kako je prethodno objašnjeno. Bokove baza sam obojao crnom bojom i stavio sam sloj laka na svih 6 baza i evo konačnog rezultata:

	  
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Dalibor Čavić, 7th April 2021

Financial reports for 2020

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    ["title_eng"]=>
    string(26) "Financial reports for 2020"
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    string(79) "Financijska izvješća i potvrde o potrošnji proračunskih sredstava za 2020. "
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	Full annual financial report can be found here. 

	
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	Financijsko izvješće UMS "Agram" za 2020. u cjelosti se nalazi na stranicama Ministarstva financija. 

	Pored financijskog izvješća, budući da je korisnik i proračunskih sredstava, UMS "Agram" dobio je i potvrde o namjenski potrošenim sredstvima za projekte od strane Gradskih ureda za socijalnu zaštitu i osobe s invaliditetom (2).

	

	Izvadak iz godišnjeg izvješća ZZTK, nije još sastavljen i bit će postavljen ovdje čim ga zaprimimo. 
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Marko Paunović, 30th March 2021

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