Latest announcements
Black Queen H&MPC 2021 dates confirmed
12nd October 2020, posted by Marko Paunović in News
The dates for the Black Queen Hobby and Miniature Painting Competition 2021 have been confirmed.
So save the dates, 27-28.2.2021, and we'll see you then with all the epidemic measures necessary.
Miniature Painters Croatia - Winter Painting Competition 2020
Event date: 9th October 2020, 10:00h - 1nd December 2020, 23:59h 8th October 2020, posted by Marko Paunović in Events
Latest articles
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Step by Step – The Netherlands 1986 Diorama pt 3 – The Building
array(2) { ["Article"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(3) "121" ["member_id"]=> string(2) "35" ["title_eng"]=> string(67) "Step by Step – The Netherlands 1986 Diorama pt 3 – The Building" ["title_hrv"]=> string(45) "Diorama: Nizozemska 1986. - dio 3 – Zgrada" ["mask_eng"]=> string(59) "step_by_step_the_netherlands_1986_diorama_pt_3_the_building" ["mask_hrv"]=> string(38) "diorama_nizozemska_1986_-_dio_3_zgrada" ["content_eng"]=> string(3332) "Marko Paunović, 23th October 2020In this series of articles, I follow my progress as I build my The Netherlands 1986 Diorama. In the third article in the series, I'm starting the build on the main building.
As always with my projects, I first sketched the shape of the building with all the details I wanted on the building front. I used the base of the diorama to determine the building width. The rest of the dimensions, I calculated according to the scale 1/35. On the building I wanted large glass windows (like the ones found in Amsterdam), an entrance to the building from a raised platform and a small door for the wares that the milkman would be using to store the containers of milk.
The building (or better to say, its structure) was built from 4 mm thick balsa wood.
The protrusions of the building front were cut from 1,5 mm thick balsa wood.
The thinner pieces of balsa wood were superglued to the structure of the building. Afterwards, I drew the brick pattern on the entire building so I instantly know where to put what size brick without too much thought.
PERFECT SUMMER ACTIVITY ON THE BEACH: placing bricks one brick at a time.
Once I was finished laying bricks, I checked how the entire building corresponds with the rest of the base.
I used my scalpel blade to cut the extra pieces of bricks protruding from the sides of the walls.
" ["content_hrv"]=> string(3095) "
U ovoj seriji članaka pratim izradu diorame Nizozemska 1986. U trećem članku, krećem u izgradnju glavne zgrade na diorami.
Kao i uvijek, prvo sam nacrtao oblik zgrade sa svim detaljima koje sam htio. Koristio sam bazu diorama da odredim širinu zgrade. Ostale dimenzije sam izračunao poprilici po mjerilu 1/35. Na zgradi sam htio velike prozore (poput onih na zgradama u Amsterdamu), povišeni ulaz u zgradu i vratašca za skladište kamo će mljekar stavljati kante s mlijekom.
Zgradu (odnosno njenu strukturu) sam izradio iz balze debljine 4 mm na koju sam precrtao dizajn.
Izbočine na zgradi su izrezane iz balze debljine 1,5 mm.
Tanju balzu sam zaljepio superljepilom na strukturu zgrade I ucrtao uzorak cigli tako da znam koje dijelove trebam prakriti ciglama bez previše razmišljanja.
SAVRŠENA LJETNA ZANIMACIJA NA PLAŽI: slaganje cigli jednu po jednu.
Kad sam završio sa postavljanjem cigli, provjerio sam kako zgrada paše sa ostatkom baze.
Skalepelo sam odrezao dijelove cigli koje su virile preko rubova zidova.
" ["created"]=> string(19) "2020-10-23 08:21:11" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2020-10-23 08:21:11" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "35" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "1" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Marko" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Paunović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "marko" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "paunovic" ["username"]=> string(5) "marko" ["password"]=> string(40) "775916114da8d49f1647decef7fb412e0964baae" ["born"]=> string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03" } } -
Step by Step – The Netherlands 1986 Diorama pt 2 – Bricks by the Canal
array(2) { ["Article"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(3) "120" ["member_id"]=> string(2) "35" ["title_eng"]=> string(74) "Step by Step – The Netherlands 1986 Diorama pt 2 – Bricks by the Canal" ["title_hrv"]=> string(53) "Diorama: Nizozemska 1986. - dio 2 – Cigle uz kanal" ["mask_eng"]=> string(66) "step_by_step_the_netherlands_1986_diorama_pt_2_bricks_by_the_canal" ["mask_hrv"]=> string(46) "diorama_nizozemska_1986_-_dio_2_cigle_uz_kanal" ["content_eng"]=> string(2508) "Marko Paunović, 23th October 2020In this series of articles, I will follow my progress as I build my The Netherlands 1986 Diorama. In the second article in the series, I tackle the bricks by the canal.
Last time I cut out the basic form of the body of the base from HD Styrofoam. After gluing the pieces together with PVA glue, I covered every surface with a generous coating of PVA glue to serve as a protection against the resin that I will fill the canal with at the end of the build.
Once the coating was dry, I reapplied another thin coat of PVA glue and used it to glue the bricks in place on the walls of the canal. I used several dimensions of bricks – all a product of Juweela company.
With the walls done, I turned my attention to the walkway. Again, I used a Juweela product – a Zig Zag pattern of bricks. The small holes between sheets I filled with individual bricks.
Once the bricks were dry and fixed in place, I again rearranged the miniatures/elements on the base so I could check if everything worked before turning my attention to the main building.
To end this part of the process, I covered the bottom half of the canal walls with a copious amount of PVA glue. Again, I did it for extra protection against the aggressive properties of resin.
" ["content_hrv"]=> string(2354) "
U ovoj seriji članaka pratim izradu diorame Nizozemska 1986. U drugom članku, opisujem izradu baze sa stavljanjem cigli uz kanal.
U prošlom broju izrezao sam oblik baze iz više komada stirodura. Potom sam zalijepio konačni oblik baze i sve prekrio sa debelim slojem PVA ljepila za zaštitu od rezina kojeg planiram uliti u kanal, a koji rastapa stirodur (odn. stiropor).
Kad se PVA ljepilo osušilo, stavio sam novi, tanji sloj I na njega posložio Juweela cigle. Koristio sam različite dimenzije kako bih dobio raznolikost uzorka.
Nakon slaganja individualnih cigli na “obalu” kanala, PVA ljepilom sam zaljepio CIK-CAK uzorak cigle – također proizvod tvrtke Juweela. Rupe između pojedinih elemenata sam popunio individualnim ciglama.
Kad se sve posušilo, ponovno sam postavio sve minijature/elemente kako bih provjerio da li sve funkcionira prije nego krenem u izradu zgrade.
Za kraj, još jednom sam donji dio obale kanala prekrio izdašnim slojem PVA ljepila za dodatnu zaštitu od agresivnog svojstva rezina.
" ["created"]=> string(19) "2020-10-23 08:20:03" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2020-10-23 08:20:03" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "35" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "1" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Marko" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Paunović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "marko" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "paunovic" ["username"]=> string(5) "marko" ["password"]=> string(40) "775916114da8d49f1647decef7fb412e0964baae" ["born"]=> string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03" } } -
Old School Ork
array(2) { ["Article"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(3) "119" ["member_id"]=> string(2) "46" ["title_eng"]=> string(14) "Old School Ork" ["title_hrv"]=> string(24) "Old School Ork - bojanje" ["mask_eng"]=> string(14) "old_school_ork" ["mask_hrv"]=> string(24) "old_school_ork_-_bojanje" ["content_eng"]=> string(10380) "Goran Krunić, 17th October 2020In today's article, I am going to show you how to paint an Orc Champion for Warhammer Fantasy Battles/Age of Sigmar.
NOTE: Do not glue the shield to the miniature until both the miniature and the shield are painted.
Preparation:
Take a sharp modelling knife and modelling or similar files in order to remove the excess material resulting from the casting process of the miniature (flash), and mould lines which are the result of the casting material accumulating on the join between the mould halves during the casting process.
Take a black, the more matte, the better spray (I have user Cosmos Matte Black), and spray the miniature by utilising light, even motions until the entire surface of the miniature is covered, taking care not to obscure the details of the miniature among the layers of applied paint, alternatively, the primer paint can also be brushed on, I would use Scale75 Black for that purpose.
Dilute a middle dark shade of green (I have user Irati Green by Scale75) using Citadel's Lahmian Medium, and apply it over 2 to 3 coats (allow the paint to dry in between layers) until you attain even coverage of the skin surfaces.
Using a middle dark metallic silver paint (Ironbreaker by Citadel, Steel from Vallejo Model Air, Heavy Metal from Scale75 etc.), paint the metallic surfaces on the miniature (this includes the armour, the sword blade, the helmet, the armor on the shoulders, the ring in the nose, the blade of the knife on the back and the shoes)*.
Using a yellowish bronze paint (I have user Dwarven Gold from Scale75), paint the tips of the helmet horns, the joins of the helmet horns with the helmet itself, the edge of the helmet above the face of the miniature, and the hilt and crossguard of the sword and knife on the back**.
Using a middle dark shade of brown paint (Beasty Brown from Vallejo Game Color, Brown Leather from Scale75 etc.), paint the horns of the helmet, and the horns of the belt buckle.
Using a pale brown paint (I have used Walnut from Scale75), paint the teeth of the miniature.
Using in sequence reddish and orange brown paints in 3 to 5 shades, gradually lighten the teeth of the miniature (I have used Blackert Brown, Peanut Butter, Cokum Copper, Hykey Yellow from Scale75 Fantasy & Games, and finally Off White from Vallejo Game Color).
The same procedure as in the previous step can also be used for the helmet horns, although a shade such as Bonewhite from Vallejo Game Color or similar was used to finish them off.
Using a darker and more muted shade of red (I have used Deep Red from Scale75), paint the lower lip of the miniature and the visible part of the inside of the mouth. Then, gradually, going from Blood Red to Aldeberan Red by Scale75 highlight the details of the lip using a paintbrush, simulating the look of a dried lip.
Using the Biel-Tan Green Shade (wash) from Citadel, apply a single, thicker coat on the skin areas of the miniature, taking care for it not to gather in the recesses, because it can leave stains that look bad.
Using Nuln Oil Shade (wash) from Citadel, apply a single, thicker coat on the metallic parts of the miniature (see above for the list *), also taking care for it not to gather in the recesses, or in one single point.
Using Agrax Earthshade Shade (wash) from Citadel, apply a single, thicker coat on the bronze parts of the miniature (see above for the list **), also taking care, as in the previous two steps for it not to gather either in the recesses, or in a single point.
Using a lighter bronze paint (I have used Viking Gold from Scale75), highlight the more pronounced parts of the bronze parts of the miniature (see above for the list **), taking care for a smaller portion of the previously painted darker layers to remain visible.
Using a darker brown shade (I have used Charred Brown from Vallejo Game Color), paint the fur parts of the miniature (above the shoes, and the outer part of the sleeve on the miniature's right hand).
Mix a middle grey shade (I have used Wolf Grey from Vallejo Game Color) to the paint from the previous step, and highlight from the middle to the top of the hairs of the fur parts.
Mix in a lighter grey shade in the mix from the previous step (I have used Ghost Grey from Vallejo Game Color), and highlight the last third and the tips of the hairs of the fur parts.
Using a middle shade of brown paint (I have used Brown Leather from Scale75), paint the leather parts of the miniature, these include the laces of the furs above the shoes, the bags on the belt on the back, the belt, the armlet on the right hand, and the shield handle on the left hand***.
Using Agrax Earthshade Shade (wash) from Citadel, apply a single, thicker coat on the leather parts of the miniature (see above for the list ***), taking care for it to not gather in the recesses.
Using reddish and yellowish shades of brown paint (e.g. Red and Orange Leather from Scale75, Scrufulous Brown from Vallejo Game Color etc.), create dot and similar patterns on the leather parts of the miniature, this will give plausibility to the leather, I also advise to Google reference images for corresponding leather parts.
Using a middle dark metallic silver paint, paint the studs on the armlet on the right hand, and the buckle on the armlet on the right hand.
Using a middle dark metallic silver paint (I have used Heavy Metal from Scale75), paint the edge of the shield.
Using a dark red paint (I have used Deep Red from Scale75), paint the inner part of the shield (the frowning Sun).
Using gradually lighter shades of red paint (Blood Red, Aldebaran Red from Scale75 etc.), highlight the bumps on the Sun on the shield.
Using the same procedure as for the teeth of the miniature, paint the teeth of the Sun on the shield.
Conclusion:
I have created a relatively simple base for the miniature, where I have used middle and fine grained sand from Gale Force 9, which I have mixed in a 2 to 1 ratio of fine to middle grained, as well as chincilla sand, which fills in any gaps left by the previous step.
I have also applied some static grass which I have obtained from the company called Gamer's Grass, with arbitrary paint depending on the desired look, season etc.
To conclude, since we are talking about a miniature from the 4th or the 5th edition of Warhammer Fantasy Battles, a base edge painted in a middle light shade of green is inevitable, I have used Goblin Green from Vallejo Game Color.
" ["content_hrv"]=> string(10689) " U današnjem članku ću vam pokazati kako obojati Orc Champion-a za igru Warhammer Fantasy Battles/Age of Sigmar.
NAPOMENA: Ne lijepiti štit na minijaturu sve dok nisu u potpunosti i minijatura i štit pobojani.
Priprema:
Uzeti oštar modelarsko-maketarski nožić, te maketarske ili prikladne turpijice kako bi se uklonili ostaci materijala od lijevanja modela (engl. flash), te srhovi koji nastaju zbog gomilanja materijala na šavu koji spaja polovice kalupa prilikom procesa lijevanja (engl. mould lines).
1. Uzeti crni, što je više moguće mat sprej (ja sam koristio Cosmos crni mat koji je u Hrvatskoj, koliko mi je poznato, dobavljiv u Slunju), te posprejati minijaturu laganim, ujednačenim pokretima dok se ne prekrije cjelokupna površina minijature, pritom pazeći da se detalji same minijature ne izgube u slojevima nanešene boje, alternativno, može se i krenuti kistom nanositi boja, ja bih u tu svrhu koristio Black od Scale75.
2. Razrijediti srednje tamnu nijansu zelene boje (ja sam koristio Irati Green od Scale75 proizvođača, te sam ju razrijedio Lahmian Medium-om od Citadel-a), te u 2-3 sloja, uz čekanje da se prethodni sloj posuši, nanijeti boju dok se ne dobije potpuno prekrivanje kožnih površina.
3. Koristeći neku srednje tamnu metalik nijansu srebrne boje (Ironbreaker od Citadel-a, Steel od Vallejo Model Air, Heavy Metal od Scale75 i sl.), pobojati metalne površine na minijaturi (ovdje se podrazumijeva oklop, oštrica mača, kaciga, oklopni štitnici na ramenima, rinčica u nosu, oštrica noža na leđima, te obuća).
4. Koristeći neku žućkastu brončanu boju (ja sam koristio Dwarven Gold od Scale 75), pobojati vrhove rogova kacige, spojnice rogova kacige sa samom kacigom, rub kacige iznad lica minijature, te dršku i štitnik od mača i noža na leđima.
5. Koristeći neku srednje tamnu nijansu smeđe boje (Beasty Brown od Vallejo Game Color, Brown Leather od Scale75 i sl.), pobojati rogove od kacige, te rogove na kopči od remena.
6. Koristeći neku blijedo smeđu boju (ja sam koristio Walnut od Scale75), pobojati zube od minijature.
7. Koristeći slijedno crvenkaste i narandžaste smeđe boje u 3-5 nijansi, postepeno posvjetljavati zube minijature (ja sam redom koristio Blackert Brown, Peanut Butter, Cokum Copper, Hykey Yellow od Scale75 Fantasy & Games, te naposlijetku Off White od Vallejo Game Color).
8. Slična procedura kao i u koraku 7. je i za rogove kacige, s time da se završi sa nijansom tipa Bonewhite od Vallejo Game Color ili slično.
9. Koristeći tamniju i zagasitu nijansu crvene (ja sam koristio Deep Red od Scale75), pobojati donju usnu minijature, te unutrašnjost usta od onog što je vidljivo, te postepeno, preko Blood Red od Scale75 do Aldebaran Red od istog proizvođača isticati detalje usne, koje sam ja nacrtao kistom, oponašajući izgled suhe usnice.
10. Koristeći Biel-Tan Green Shade, tj. wash od Citadel-a, nanijeti ju u jednom gušćem sloju po koži minijature, pritom pazeći da se ne nakupi previše u udubinama, jer može ostaviti mrlje koje loše izgledaju.
11. Koristeći Nuln Oil Shade, tj. wash od Citadel-a, nanijeti ju u jednom gušćem sloju po metalnim dijelovima minijature (pogledati korak 3. za popis istih), isto kao i u prethodnom koraku pazeći, pogotovo na oštricama da se ne nakuplja niti u udubinama, niti na jednom mjestu.
12. Koristeći Agrax Earthshade Shade, tj. wash od Citadel-a, nanijeti ju u jednom gušćem sloju po brončanim dijelovima minijature (pogledati korak 4. za popis istih), isto kao i u prethodna dva koraka pazeći da se ne nakuplja niti u udubinama, niti na jednom mjestu.
13. Koristeći neku svjetliju brončanu boju (ja sam koristio Viking Gold od Scale75), istaknuti izraženije dijelove brončanih dijelova minijature (pogledati korak 4. za popis istih), pazeći da jedan manji dio tamnijih, prethodnih slojeva ostane vidljiv.
14. Koristeći tamniju smeđu nijansu (ja sam koristio Charred Brown od Vallejo Game Color), pobojati krznene dijelove minijature (iznad obuće i na vanjskom dijelu desnog rukava oklopa).
15. Umiješati neku srednju sivu nijansu (ja sam koristio Wolf Grey od Vallejo Game Color) u boju iz prethodnog koraka, te isticati od sredine do vrha dlake na krznenim dijelovima.
16. Umiješati svjetliju sivu nijansu u mješavinu boje iz prethodnog koraka (ja sam koristio Ghost Grey od Vallejo Game Color), te isticati zadnju trećinu i vrhove dlaka na krznenim dijelovima.
17. Koristeći neku srednju nijansu smeđe boje (ja sam koristio Brown Leather od Scale75), pobojati dijelove minijature od kože, to su vezice krzna iznad obuće, vreće na remenu na leđima, remen, narukvicu na desnoj ruci, te dršku od štita na lijevoj ruci.
18. Koristeći Agrax Earthshade Shade, tj. wash od Citadel-a, nanijeti ju u jednom gušćem sloju po kožnim dijelovima minijature (pogledati korak 17. za popis), pritom pazeći da se ne nakuplja u udubinama.
19. Koristeći crvenkastije i žuće nijanse smeđe (npr. Red i Orange Leather od Scale75, Scrufulous Brown od Vallejo Game Color i sl.), napraviti točkaste i slične uzorke na koži, ovo će joj dati na uvjerljivosti, preporučam pogledati na Google-u referencu za odgovarajuće kožne predmete.
20. Koristeći srednje tamnu metalik srebrnu boju, pobojati zakovice na narukvici na desnoj ruci, te kopču isto tako na desnoj ruci na narukvici.
21. Koristeći srednje tamnu metalik srebrnu boju (ja sam koristio Heavy Metal od Scale75), pobojati rub štita.
22. Koristeći tamnu crvenu boju (ja sam koristio Deep Red od Scale75), pobojati unutarnji dio štita (namršteno Sunce).
23. Koristeći postepeno svjetlije nijanse crvene boje (Blood Red, Aldebaran Red od Scale75 i sl.), posvjetljavati izbočine na Suncu na štitu.
24. Koristeći istu proceduru kao u koraku 7., obojati zube na Suncu na štitu.
Završetak:
Ja sam relativno jednostavno postolje za minijaturu napravio, gdje sam koristio srednji i fini pijesak od Gale Force 9, koje sam zamiješao u omjeru 2:1 u korist finog pijeska, te pijesak za činčile, koji popuni sve praznine koje prethodni korak ne popuni.
Također sam stavio nešto statičke trave koju sam nabavio od tvrtke Gamer's Grass, boja po želji, ovisno o željenom izgledu, godišnjem dobu i sl.
Za kraj, obzirom da je ovo ipak minijatura iz 4. ili 5. edicije Warhammer Fantasy Battles, neizostavan je rub postolja pofarban u srednje svijetlu nijasnu zelene, ja sam koristio Goblin Green od Vallejo Game Color.
" ["created"]=> string(19) "2020-10-17 19:12:29" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2020-10-18 18:42:53" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "46" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Goran" ["last_name"]=> string(7) "Krunić" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "goran" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(6) "krunic" ["username"]=> string(6) "GoranK" ["password"]=> string(40) "bd911c73eb78686e59996538590c37e24ced47f6" ["born"]=> string(19) "2012-06-05 22:39:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2012-06-05 22:40:18" } }
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Step by Step – The Netherlands 1986 Diorama pt 1 – Idea and the Start of the Build
array(2) { ["Article"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(3) "118" ["member_id"]=> string(2) "35" ["title_eng"]=> string(86) "Step by Step – The Netherlands 1986 Diorama pt 1 – Idea and the Start of the Build" ["title_hrv"]=> string(62) "Diorama: Nizozemska 1986. - dio 1 – Ideja i početak izrade" ["mask_eng"]=> string(78) "step_by_step_the_netherlands_1986_diorama_pt_1_idea_and_the_start_of_the_build" ["mask_hrv"]=> string(54) "diorama_nizozemska_1986_-_dio_1_ideja_i_pocetak_izrade" ["content_eng"]=> string(3734) "Marko Paunović, 17th October 2020In this series of articles, I will follow my progress as I build my The Netherlands 1986 Diorama. In the first article in the series, I discuss the idea and I start the build... eventually.
Ever since I started work on my France 1986 diorama, I’ve had the idea to make a series of dioramas set in 1986 around the world. Why 1986 in particular, I have no idea. Just liked the roundness of the number. After France, I started work on Italy 1986 and now I start another. This one set in The Netherlands. Amsterdam to be more precise. I wanted to include the canal, some trees, at least a part of the building and of course, some bicycles. I drew a quick sketch (above).
Luckily, right about the time I started planning the diorama, I went to Ljubljana to a modeling show and there I found some Tamiya German WWII bicycles and I’ve had a milkman in 1/35 scale from before. Time to do a quick mock up inside the frame I intended to use.
As ever with my projects, to actually start work took me about 6 months. A first part of pandemic, a full lockdown, an earthquake later, I went on my holidays and I started working on the actual diorama.
The main body of the diorama I built from 5cm thick HD Styrofoam. To create the illusion of dynamics of the scene going further from the frame, I built the canal walls not perpendicular/parallel to the sides of the frames. This complicates the build somewhat, but it will add so much interest to the final product.
Once I built the body, I glued the pieces using PVA glue and once dry, I assembled the figurine pieces (2 human and 2 bikes) on a dry fit to see how the composition works. I was satisfied with the result and now it was time add the bricks (which will be explained in the next article.
" ["content_hrv"]=> string(3924) "
U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ću izradu diorame Nizozemska 1986. U prvom članku, obrađujem ideju iza diorame i početak izgradnje...
Otkad sam počeo rad na mojoj diorami Francuska 1986., po glavi mi se počela vrzmati ideja da napravim seriju diorama iz 1986. u raznim državama svijeta. Zašto baš 1986., ne znam. Sviđala mi se okruglost znamenki. Nakon Francuske, počeo sam izradu diorama Italija 1986. (koju sam uspio dovesti do stadija bojanja… I tu stao.) i sad počinjem rad na novoj diorami. Ova je smještena u Nizozemsku. Amsterdam, da budem precizniji . Htio sam uključiti kanal, drvo, barem dio kuće i naravno, bicikle. Na brzinu sam napravio mali nacrt (na slici iznad) i s time je sve počelo.
Na sreću, baš tako nekako u to vrijeme otišao sam u Ljubljanu na maketarsko natjecanje i tamo sam uspio kupiti neke njemačke bicikle iz Drugog svjetskog rata (Tamiya), a otprije sam imao mljekara u mjerilu 1/35. Došlo je vrijeme da isprobam kako funkcioniraju sve figure unutar okvira (Ikea).
Kao i uvijek s mojim projektima da zapravo započnem rad bilo je potrebno oko 6 mjeseci. Dio pandemije, puni lockdown i potres kasnije, spremao sam se na godišnji odmor i zakljucio da je baš vrijeme da počnem rad na diorami.
Glavno tijelo diorama sam izradio iz stirodura debelog 5 cm. Da dobijem iluziju dinamike na sceni i prikažem da se scena proteže i izvan okvira diorama, izradio sam kanal pod malim kutom u odnosu na rubove okvira. Naravno, to komplicira izradu, ali daje dozu realnosti i čini diorama puno zanimljivijom za gledanje.
Kada sam izradio tijelo baze, zalijepio sam dijelove pomoću PVA ljepila i kada se osušilo, postavio sam minijature (2 ljudske i 2 bicikla) da vidim kako pašu unutar kompozicije. Budući da sam bio zadovoljan, mogao sam krenuti postavljati cigle na obale kanala što ću obraditi u sljedećem članku.
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Astronaut on the Beach – Part 2
array(2) { ["Article"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(3) "117" ["member_id"]=> string(2) "97" ["title_eng"]=> string(33) "Astronaut on the Beach – Part 2" ["title_hrv"]=> string(28) "Astonaut na plaži – dio 2" ["mask_eng"]=> string(29) "astronaut_on_the_beach_part_2" ["mask_hrv"]=> string(23) "astonaut_na_plazi_dio_2" ["content_eng"]=> string(6873) "Jure Cukar, 12nd October 2020As I wrote in the first part, just painting a little astronaut without context and ambience was not considered sufficient, nor an excessive challenge, so in this part, the part about painting, I will put the emphasis on some other things.
Here I will emphasize the freehand of the globe and the accentuated direction of the light.
I will further emphasize the source of light with the shadows I will write a word about, two.
And a third emphasis I will put on the liquid resin that I worked with a little more seriously for the first time.
To draw the earth, I divided the sphere into zones horizontally and vertically. Looking at google earth continent by continent I traced in light color across the black undercoat. It was difficult for me to decide on my scale which element, peninsula or continent would be which majority, but since I did not strive for hyperrealism, I took a breather to swallow a couple of islands and peninsulas. With a couple of corrections the sketch was done.
Since one side will be much darker than the other I started with the darkest tones of the chosen colors.
The coarse layers that I later merged got an accentuated brighter part from the direction I imagined the light coming from.
Adding a shadow was one of the tasks I thought would elevate the whole effect. After the sand in 4-5 layers was painted and drybrushan the dark color remained in depth and it was a good foundation for what I further intended. The shadows had to match the ratio of light and shadow on the sphere. I felt that they did not have to fully correspond to the real situation, so I emphasized them a little. If it was to look at the ball, the light source for the shadows would be a bit higher, but I extended the shadows a bit because of the effect. This is especially noticeable with shadows created by balloon rope and sand. Realistically, these shadows would be almost imperceptible, but they are noticeably extended. I worked the shadows with diluted black paint in multiple layers and further darkened them at the root of the object that creates them.
Now half the base needed to be topped with rubber. I knew what I wanted, but I had no experience with performance. I wanted a slightly turquoise color of the rippled water, and maybe a few waves. I used a two-component liquid rubber from Pebeo, and I used Idea VETRO glass paint to color the rubber.
With careful and precise use, I got a fine mix, and with a drop of turquoise, a fine shade. Since the sea was only supposed to be in the corner of the base I fenced off only those two sides, a mistake! On the sides where I glued the plastic partitions I first put a spike tape so I could take it all off later more easily. That proved to be a good decision.
Not wanting the rubber to leak down the side of the partition base, I glued it with super glue, and I passed the first thin layer in the grooves between the base and the partition with UV resin.
It can be done without it, but I was too afraid that the rubber would spill all over the table. And despite the successful procrastination, the moment came when I had to pour my slice. I went little by little avoiding the bubbles, and if they did appear in a short stream from the burner I would throw them out. Tedi, about 15 kuna, before you ask.
Obviously I didn’t do well and calculate the slope and depth of the base so that mistake from above came to charge; overflow on both edges. With emergency intervention and cramming UV resin to the edges the flood was stopped and resin finally came into place. After drying overnight I tried some slight wave and ripple effect however on first attempts I realized it wouldn’t go like on youtube tutorials and gave up on further attempts. For this project. The partitions were easily removed and with a scalpel I removed the parts where the rubber was leaking, I sanded a little and painted it black.
In the whole scene, the only thing I might emphasize is the reflection in the astronaut's visor. As reflection represents the vision the boy is looking at it is different from the reality the viewer is looking at. That is why there is no rope in reflection and behind the Earth is the universe. As the light comes from behind him there is no strong reflection but only a glare spilling over the edges of the visor.
" ["content_hrv"]=> string(6655) "
Kako sam u prvom dijelu napisao, samo bojanje malog astronauta bez konteksta i ambijenta nisam smatrao dostatnim, a ni pretjeranim izazovom stoga ću u ovom dijelu, dijelu o bojanju, naglasak staviti na neke druge stvari.
Tu ću naglasiti freehand zemaljske kugle i naglašenom smjeru svijetla.
Izvor svijetla ću dodatno naglasiti sjenama o kojima ću napisati riječ, dvije.
I treći osvrt ću staviti na tekući rezin s kojim sam malo ozbiljnije radio prvi put.
Da bih precrtao zemlju podjelio sam kuglu na zone horizontalama i vertikalama. Gledajući na google earth kontinent po kontinent precrtavao sam svijetlom bojom po crnom undercoatu. Bilo mi je teško u mom mjerilu odlučiti koji element, poluotok ili kontinent će biti koje većine, ali budući da nisam težio hiperrealističnosti dao sam si oduška da progutam par otoka i poluotoka. Uz par korekcija skica je bila gotova.
Budući da će jedna strana biti dosta tamnija od druge krenuo sam s najtamnijim tonovim odabranih boja.
Grubim slojevima koje sam kasnije stapao dobio sam naglašeni svijetliji dio iz smjera iz kojeg sam zamislio da dolazi svjetlo.
Dodavanje sjene je bio jedan od zadataka za koje sam smatrao da će podići čitav efekt. Nakon što je pijesak u 4-5 slojeva bojan i drybrushan ostala je tamna boja u dubini i to je bio dobar temelj za ono što sam dalje namjeravao. Sjene su se morale podudarati s odnosom svijetla i sjene na kugli. Smatrao sam da ne moraju u potpunosti odgovarati istinskoj situaciji pa sam ih malo naglasio. Da je bilo gledati po kugli izvor svijetla za sjene bi bio nešto viši, ali sam zbog efekta malo produžio sjene. To je naročito vidljivo kod sjena koje stvara uže balona i pijesak. Realno bi te sjene bile gotovo nezamjetne, ali su osjetno produžene. Sjene sam radio s razvodnjenom crnom bojom u više slojeva i dodatno ih potamnjivao u korjenu objekta koji ih stvara.
Sada je pola baze trebalo preliti rezinom. Znao sam što želim, ali nisam imao iskustva s izvedbom. Želio sam lagano tirkiznu boju namreškane vode, a možda i pokoji val. Koristio sam dvokomponentni tekući rezin od Pebeo-a, a za bojanje rezina sam koristio Idea VETRO boju za stakla.
Uz oprezno i precizno korištenje dobio sam fini mix, a uz kap tirkizne boje i finu nijansu. Budući da je more trebalo biti samo u kutu baze ogradio sam samo te dvije strane, greška! Na bočne strane gdje sam ljepio plastične pregrade prvo sam stavio pik traku da mogu kasnije lakše skinuti sve. To se pokazalo kao dobra odluka.
Ne želeći da mi rezin procuri niz strane baze pregrade sam zaljepio super ljepilom, a prvi tanki sloj u utorima između baze i pregrade sam prošao UV resinom.
Može se i bez toga samo me bilo previše strah da će se rezin razlit svugdje po stolu. I unatoč uspješnom odgađanju došao je trenutak kada sam morao naliti svoj rezin. Išao sam malo po malo izbjegavajući mjehuriće, a ako bi se i pojavili kratkim mlazom iz brenera sam ih izbacivao. Tedi, 15-ak kuna.
Očito nisam dobro napravio i proračunao nagib i dubinu baze pa je ona greška od gore došla na naplatu; preljevanje na oba ruba. Uz hitnu intervenciju i trpanje UV resina na rubove poplava je zaustavljena i resin napokon dolazi na svoje mijesto. Nakon što se sušilo preko noći pokušao sam neki lagani efekt vala i mreškanja međutim u prvim pokušajima sam shvatio da to neće ići kao na youtube tutorialima i odustao od dalnjih pokušaja. Za ovaj projekt. Pregrade su se lako skinule i skalpelom sam skinuo dijelove gdje je rezin curio, malo sam pobrusio i ofarbao u crno.
U čitavoj sceni još jedino bih možda naglasio refleksiju u viziru astronauta. Kako refleksija predstavlja viziju koju dječak gleda ona je drukčija od stvarnosti koju gledatelj gleda. Zato u refleksiji nema užeta i iza Zemlje je svemir. Kako mu svijetlo dolazi s leđa nema jake refleksije već samo odsjaj koji se preljeva uz rubove vizira.
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