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UMS Agram @ The Winter Championship 2023

Event date: 3th February 2023, 12:00h - 5th February 2023, 16:00h 24th January 2023, posted by Ana Polanšćak in Events

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  • Painting a masked uniform
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        ["title_eng"]=>
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        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(22) "Bojanje maskirne sheme"
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    Here is one of the "million" ways you can paint camouflage uniforms.

    Prepare clean water, the base color and the colors you will apply for the masked scheme.

    Paint the part of the figure that goes into the camouflage scheme in the base color and dry well. Depending on the intensity of the masking scheme, you can create highlights and shadows on the base color, but you should not overdo it because it will not stand out too much.

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    Click for enlarged picture

    When the paint has dried well (say half an hour to an hour, depending on the air temperature in the room), take a clean brush and water and coat it well over the base paint. You don't need to save water, but be careful about creating "pooling". It may be best to prepare 2 brushes, one for water and one for paint. As soon as you have covered the figure with water, take the first color you planned to use to make the scheme and touch it in several random places on the wet surface. Dry well and repeat the process with all the other colors you planned to use (water -> painting -> drying).

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    Click for enlarged picture

    In this way, you will get stains without sharp edges and that is the specificity of this technique. The technique is very fast in terms of work, only drying takes a little longer. I do not recommend drying with a hair dryer. That's why these winter days are ideal for painting, because radiators are the perfect place for paint to dry. If you use a masking scheme with at least 3 shades, be careful. It's very easy to overdo it.

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(2749) "

    Evo jednog od „milijun“ načina kako možete bojati maskirne uniforme.

    Pripremite čistu vodu, osnovnu boju i boje koje ćete nanositi za maskirnu shemu.

    Obojajte dio figure koji ide u maskirnu shemu u osnovnu boju i dobro osušite. Ovisno o intenzitetu maskirne sheme možete na osnovnoj boji načiniti i highliteove i sjene, ali ne treba pretjerivati jer neće previše doći do izražaja.

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    Kada se boja dobro osušila (recimo pola sata – sat, ovisno o temperaturi zraka u sobi) uzmite čisti kist i vodu te dobro premažite preko osnovne boje. Ne trebate štediti s vodom, ali ipak pripazite na stvaranje „poolinga“. Možda je najbolje pripremiti 2 kista, jedan za vodu, a jedan za boju. Čim ste figuru premazali vodom uzmite prvu boju kojom ste planirali raditi shemu i dodirnite na nekoliko nasumičnih mjesta na mokroj površini. Dobro osušite i ponovite postupak sa svim ostalim bojama koje ste planirali upotrijebiti ( voda -> bojanje -> sušenje).

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    Na ovaj način dobit ćete mrlje bez oštrih rubova i to je specifičnost ove tehnike. Tehnika je vrlo brza u smislu posla, jedino sušenje malo duže traje. Nikako ne preporučujem sušenje sušulom za kosu. Zato su ovi zimski dani idealni za bojanje jer radijatori su savršeno mjesto za sušenje boje. Ako maskirnu shemu radite s bar 3 nijanse pripazite. Vrlo je lako pretjerati.

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    Dalibor Čavić, 8th January 2023
  • Painting a lightsabre
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        string(21) "Painting a lightsabre"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(25) "Bojanje svjetlosne sablje"
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    If you're painting some of the Star Wars Legion or similar figures, you'll want the Jedi or Sith sabers to look good. There are at least three or four ways to paint them, and I'm going to show two very, very similar ones here. Although these methods do not show the lightsaber "realistically" as in the movie, they achieve a satisfactory effect very quickly and easily. And the secret of everything is in ... glazes.

    Prepare your Jedi or Sith figures and prepare 4-5 shades of the color you want or need to paint the lightsaber. The difference in the darkest and lightest shade should be whatever you want, although I think that the contrast in this case can hardly be overdone. The darkest shade should not be too dark (perhaps like a kind of midtone if you were to dye clothes in the same color), but it should have the consistency of a basecoat. Other shades should be more rare, i.e. the consistency of thicker glazes.

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    I start from the darkest shade and that's why it has a thicker consistency than the others. No special reason, just out of habit. However, if it suits you, you can also start with the lightest one. When the basecoat was dry, I painted 4/5 of the saber with the first following shade. So about 1/5 is left in the darkest basecoat. As I am painting 2 figures in this tutorial, I left the tip of one saber the darkest, and the base (near the hilt) of the other saber. In the end, you will choose which effect you like better.

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    Apply the next shade to 3/5 of the saber and continue until you reach the lightest shade that will cover only 1/5 of the saber. You should now have a saber, painted in 5 shades each covering roughly 1/5 or 20% of the saber. For some, this will be satisfactory because from a distance the saber already looks decent.

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    For those who want more, here's how to improve the result: You can dilute the existing glazes even more and paint the transitions between the two shades with them. Simply, if you are not satisfied with the transitions, you will have to play with the glazes a bit, back and forth. If at first it doesn't seem like it, the glaze is probably wet. Wait for it to dry completely and then decide if you need another one or not. If by chance the contrast between the darkest and lightest shades is too strong for you, make a thin glaze from the middle shade and go over the entire saber with it.

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    And finally, let me mention what are the other 2 ways to paint a lightsaber. The third is that after the basecoat, paint the line of highlite with the length of the saber with several shades, each of which is thinner than the previous one. This suits the movie better, but it's only effective from one angle. That's ok, if you're going to photograph the figure for some boxart, instagram, etc., but if you want it to look effective from all angles, the first one is better. And the last way is that some companies produce paint that conducts electricity and lights up (Green Stuff World). This requires that you paint the saber in that color and somehow connect it with wires to the battery, which you will hide somewhere in the base. But I leave that step to you.

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(4101) "

    Bojate li neke od Star Wars Legion ili sličnih figura, poželjeti ćete da Jedijima ili Sithovima sablje izgledaju efektno. Postoje bar tri-četiri načina kako ih obojati, a ja ću ovdje pokazati dva vrlo, vrlo slična. Iako ti načini ne prikazuju svjetlosnu sablju „realno“ kao u filmu, njima se vrlo brzo i jednostavno dobije zadovoljavajući efekt. A tajna svega je u ... glazeovima.

    Pripremite svoje Jedi ili Sith figure i pripremite 4-5 nijansi boje u koju želite ili trebate obojati svjetlosnu sablju. Razlika u najtamnijoj i najsvjetlijoj nijansi neka bude onakva kakvu vi želite, iako mislim da se s kontrastom u ovom slučaju vrlo teško može pretjerati. Najtamnija nijansa ne bi trebala biti pretamna (možda kao nekakav midtone kada bi farbali odjeću u istu boju), ali bi trebala biti konzistencije basecoata. Ostale nijanse neka budu rjeđe tj. konzistencije gušćih glazeova.

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    Ja krećem od najtamnije nijanse i zato je ona gušće konzistencije od ostalih. Nema posebnog razloga, iz navike. No, ako vama odgovara, možete krenuti i od najsvjetlije. Kada se basecoat osušio, prvom slijedećom nijansom obojao sam 4/5 sablje. Dakle, oko 1/5 ostalo je u najtamnijem basecoatu. Kako u ovom turorijalu farbam 2 figure, jednoj sablji najtamniji sam ostavio vrh, a drugoj bazu (kod drške). Vi ćete na kraju odabrati koji efekt vam se više sviđa.

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    Slijedeću nijansu nanesite na 3/5 sablje i nastavite tako dok ne dođete do najsvjetlije nijanse koja će pokrivati samo 1/5 sablje. Sada bi trebali imati sablju, obojanu u 5 nijansi od čega svaka otprilike pokriva 1/5 ili 20% sablje. Za neke će ovo biti zadovoljavajuće jer iz daljine sablja sad već pristojno izgleda.

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    Za one koji žele više, evo kako ćete poboljšati rezultat: Postojeće glazeove možete razrjediti još više i njima obojite prijelaze između dviju nijansi. Jednostavno, ako niste zadovoljni prijelazima, morati ćete se malo poigrati s glazeovima, naprijed i nazad. Ako vam se na prvu čini da to nije to, glaze je vjerojatno mokar. Pričekajte da se potpuno osuši pa odlučite treba li još jedan ili ne. Ako vam je slučajno kontrast između najtamnije i najsvjetlije nijanse prejak, od srednje nijanse načinite rijetki glaze i njime prijeđite preko cijele sablje.

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    I za kraj, da spomenem koja su još 2 načina bojanja svjetlosne sablje. Treći je da nakon basecoata bojate crtu highlitea duljinom sablje s nekoliko nijansi od kojih je svaka slijedeća tanja od prethodne. Ovo više odgovara filmu, ali je efektno samo iz jednog kuta gledanja. To je ok, ako ćete fotografirati figuru za neki boxart, instagram i sl. ali ako želite da efektno izgleda iz svih kuteva ovo prvo je bolje. I zadnji je način taj da neke kompanije proizvode boju koja provodi struju i svijetli (Green Stuff World). To zahtjeva da sabolju obojate u tu boju i nekako je žicama spojite s baterijom koju ćete sakriti negdje u bazu. No, taj korak ostavljam vama.

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2023-01-08 17:01:03" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2023-01-08 17:01:03" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "95" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(7) "Dalibor" ["last_name"]=> string(7) "Čavić" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(7) "dalibor" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(5) "cavic" ["username"]=> string(6) "Tvrtko" ["password"]=> string(0) "" ["born"]=> string(19) "2019-04-04 18:51:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2019-04-04 18:51:50" } }
    Dalibor Čavić, 8th January 2023
  • Top Tip - Patafix and resin printed miniatures
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    When I paint the figures I attach them to the cap of a plastic juice or beer bottle with patafix. Practically, I get a free figure holder, from which the figure is easily detached after painting, and the cap and patafix are easily used again for a new figure. It is also a cheap solution for painting entire units.

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    Click for enlarged picture

    However, I noticed that the patafix barely or almost does not hold the resin figures (3d printed ones), and washing with soap and warm water does little to help. I solved the problem by lightly sanding the bottom of the base with sandpaper.

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    After sanding, and before putting the patafix, don't forget to wipe off the sanding dust. Maybe best with wet paper.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(1671) "

    Kad bojam figure patafiksom ih pričvrstim za čep plastične boce od soka ili pive. Praktički dobijem besplatan držač figure s kojeg se figura nakon bojanja valo lako odvaja, a čep i patafiks se lako koriste ponovo za novu figuru. Također je jeftino rješenje za farbanje čitavih unita.

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    Click for enlarged picture

    Međutim, primjetio sam da patafiks slabo ili gotovo nikako ne drži resinske figure (3d printane), a pranje sapunom i toplom vodom slabo pomaže. Problem sam rješio tako da sam brusnim papirom lagano pobrusio dno baze.

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    Nakon brušenja, a prije stavljanja patafiksa ne zaboravite pobrisati prašinu od brušenja. Možda najbolje mokrim papirom.

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    Dalibor Čavić, 8th January 2023
  • Making a Miniature Candy Cane
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        string(31) "Izrada Candy Cane za minijature"
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    On the occasion of the Christmas holidays, I made a vignette in a transparent plastic ball as a Christmas tree decoration. As part of the scene, I also needed a recognizable Candy Cane.

    I decided to make it from a Plasticard (styrene) profile bought at Carta Magica. I chose a full circular section profile with a diameter of 4 mm. The problem was how to bend it without major deformations of the cross-section diameter or shape. Previous attempts at heating using an open flame ended in deformations that were irreparable. The heating with the hair dryer was too slow. I decided to try heating with hot water. From 4 mm thick balsa, I made a "mould" with the approximate radius of the rounding I wanted to get. I attached a piece of profile to the mold with crepe tape and heated some water in the kettle. After the water boiled, I dipped the profile and held it in the boiling water for 2-3 minutes.

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    When the profile softened enough, I began to bend it with my fingers over the radius of the mold, holding both ends tightly. First, I bent the profile 90 degrees and reheated it in hot water.

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    At a bending angle of 120 degrees, the profile started to slide out of the mold, so I tied both ends of the profile with a piece of wire in the desired position and dipped it in hot water for another minute.

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    In the end, the profile was bent by 180 degrees. I cut off the excess material with a file and rounded the edge of the profile with sandpaper.

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    With masking tape 2 mm wide, I spirally wrapped the profile as in picture 1 and painted it red. After the paint dried I removed the tape and enjoyed the result.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(2880) "

    Povodom Božićnih blagdana izradio sam vinjetu u prozirnoj plastičnoj kugli kao ukras za jelku. U sklopu scene trebao mi je i prepoznatljiv slatkiš Candy Cane.

    Odlučio sam ga izraditi iz Plasticard (styrene) profila kupljenog u Carta Magici. Odabrao sam puni profil kružnog presjeka promjera 4 mm. Problem mi je predstavljao kako ga savinuti bez velikih deformacija promjera presjeka ili oblika. Prijašnji pokušaji zagrijavanja pomoću otvorenog plamena su završavali deformacijama koje su bile nepopravljive. Zagrijavanje fenom je bilo presporo. Odlučio sam pokušati zagrijavanjem vrućom vodom. Od balze debljine 4 mm izradio sam „kalup“ s približnim radijusom zaobljenje koje sam želio dobiti. Krep trakom sam pričvrstio komad profila za kalup i u kuhalu zagrijao malo vode. Nakon što je voda zakuhala umočio sam profil i držao ga u kipućoj vodi 2-3 minute.

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    Kada je profil dovoljno omekšao počeo sam ga prstima savijati preko radijusa kalupa čvrsto držeći oba kraja. Prvo sam svinuo profil za 90 stupnjeva i ponovo ga zagrijao u vrućoj vodi.

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    Kod kuta savijanja od 120 stupnjeva profil je počeo kliziti iz kalupa, pa sam oba kraja profila vezao komadićem žice u željeni položaj i potopio u vruću vodu još koju minutu.

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    Na kraju je profil bio savinut za 180 stupnjeva. Odrezao sam višak materijala pilicom i brusnim papirom zaoblio rub profila.

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    Krep trakom širine 2 mm sam spiralno zamotao profil kao na slici 1. i obojio crvenom bojom. Nakon što se boja osušila skinuo sam krep traku i uživao u rezultatu.

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    Krunoslav Belinić, 3th January 2023
  • Heavy Gear Blitz Diorama – part 6.
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    I made this diorama over 5-6 months (20-25 hours of work in total) in 2022.

    In the following articles, I will cover the production thematically through the following units:
    • Painting, camouflage and weathering on figures (robots and trucks)
    • Manufacturing and installation of parachutes
    • Making the base
    • Adding Texture
    • Painting of palm trees - already described here.
    • Additional vegetation
    • Adding narrative details to the diorama (foot with rocket launcher, landing ramp on the plane, camouflage tarp on the trucks).

    Adding narrative details to the diorama (pedestrian with rocket launcher, landing ramp on plane, camouflage tarp on trucks, smoke trails of anti-missile protection, jets on plane exhausts)

    These details were not done at the same time, but rather over a long period of time, so I will describe them in chronological order. The landing ramp on the plane is made of plasticard, which I cut one early autumn weekend afternoon with plastic cutters and a scalpel, an experience that I would not repeat in this way, but I would buy myself an honest ultrasonic or similar apparatus for tailoring and cutting such hard and solid material, no matter what the price is:

    Click for enlarged picture

    Click for enlarged picture

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    I ordered the infantry with the rocket launcher along with the trucks at the end of November 2022. Since this is a 12-14mm tall miniature, I went for a fairly simple paint scheme. As with the robo and the truck, I put an olive green base color on the black primer, then Athonian Camoshade shading, and highlighting the jagged edges with a lighter olive green color. Then my personal friend and friend of the Association, Zlatko Grom, bought the STL files from the manufacturer Deadly Print Studio and printed a scaled rocket with a smoke trail in transparent resin.

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    I additionally colored that trail by using diluted tones of yellow, orange and red, in order to achieve the impression that the rocket is leaving behind a glowing trail.

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    For the cargo on the trucks, I used the stl file of the cargo box from the thingiverse page, and had it printed in the necessary dimensions and cut at Printing & Dragons. I then used cheesecloth dipped in a mixture of watered-down, yellowish-brown paint, which I attached to the trucks with superglue:

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    I darkened the gauze attached in this way with Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil washes from Citadel, and they fit quite well into the rainforest environment with the color:

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    At the very end, a day before the deadline for submitting photos of exhibits to the competition from the game manufacturer, I received 3d printed smoke trails, for which I bought an STL file at cults 3d:

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    The explosions on top of the smoke trails are from Deadly Print Studio, also a purchased STL file. Some fellow modelers, as well as my little one, think that the smoke trails, together with the orange-yellow explosions, end up looking like chicken or duck legs, but I didn't have the patience to add some extra shadows at the end, and the choice of colors for the smoke could be better, because the light gray of the Liquitex spray I used and the white are quite similar from a photographing distance. As for the jets on the plane's exhaust, they were printed for me by Zlatko Grom earlier in the year, and the STL file is also from Deadly Print Studio, as are the rockets with the smoke trail, and the explosions on the tops of the smoke trails:

    Click for enlarged picture

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(6753) "

    Ovu dioramu sam kroz 5-6 mjeseci (ukupno 20-25 sati rada) u 2022. godini izradio.

    U člancima koji slijede ću izradu tematski obraditi kroz slijedeće cjeline:
    • Bojanje, kamuflaža i weathering na figurama (robotima i kamionima)
    • Izrada i montaža padobrana
    • Izrada postolja
    • Teksturiranje postolja
    • Bojanje palmi - već opisano na sljedećoj poveznici 
    • Izrada dodatne vegetacije
    • Dodavanje pripovjedačkih detalja u dioramu (pješak sa bacačem raketa, iskrcajna rampa na avionu, kamuflažna cerada na kamionima).

    Dodavanje pripovjedačkih detalja u dioramu (pješak sa bacačem raketa, iskrcajna rampa na avionu, kamuflažna cerada na kamionima, dimni tragovi protuprojektilne zaštite, mlazovi na ispusima aviona)

    Ovi detalji nisu rađeni istovremeno, već u dosta dugim vremenskim razmacima, stoga ću ih kronološkim redoslijedom opisati. Iskrcajna rampa na avionu je napravljena od plasticarda koje sam jedno ranojesensko vikend popodne rezao kliještima za rezanje plastike i skalpelom, iskustvo koje ne bih na ovaj način ponavljao, već bih si kupio poštenu ultrazvučnu ili sličnu aparaturu za krojenje i rezanje ovako tvrdog i čvrstog materijala, bez obzira na cijenu:

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    Pješaka sa bacaćem raketa sam naručio zajedno sa kamionima krajem studenog 2022. Obzirom da je ovo minijatura od 12-14mm visine, išao sam na dosta jednostavnu shemu bojanja. Kao i kod roboa i kamiona sam stavio maslinasto zelenu osnovnu boju na crni primer, zatim Athonian Camoshade sjenčanje, te isticanje nazubljenih rubova svjetlijom maslinasto zelenom bojom. Zatim mi je osobni prijatelj i prijatelj Udruge, Zlatko Grom, kupivši STL datoteke od proizvođača Deadly Print Studio, isprintao po želji skaliranu raketu sa dimnim tragom u prozirnoj smoli.

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    Taj trag sam dodatno obojao tako što sam u koristio razrijeđene tonove žute, narandžaste i crvene boje, kako bih postigao dojam da raketa ostavlja iza sebe užareni trag.

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    Za teret na kamionima sam iskoristio stl datoteku teretnog sanduka sa stranice thingiverse, te sam ju dao isprintati u potrebnim dimenzijama i rezinu kod Printing & Dragons. Zatim sam koristio gazu umočenu u smjesu razvodnjene boje žućkasto smeđih tonova, koju sam superljepilom pričvrstio na kamione:

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    Ovako pričvršćenu gazu sam Agrax Earthshade i Nuln Oil washevima od Citadel-a potamnio, te su se dosta dobro uklopile u prašumski ambijent bojom:

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    Na samom kraju sam, dan prije roka za predaju fotografija izložaka na natjecanje od proizvođača igre, dobio 3d printane dimne tragove, za koje sam na cults 3d kupio STL datoteku:

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    Eksplozije na vrhovima dimnih tragova su od Deadly Print Studio-a, isto tako kupljena STL datoteka. Neki kolege maketari, kao i moja malenkost, misle da dimni tragovi, zajedno sa naradžasto-žutim eksplozijama na kraju izgledaju kao pileće, odnosno pačje noge, ali nisam više imao strpljenja na kraju dodavati neke ekstra sjene, a i izbor boja za dim bi mogao biti bolji, jer su svijetlo siva od Liquitex spreja kojeg sam koristio i bijela dosta slične sa udaljenosti fotografiranja. Što se mlazova na ispuhu aviona tiče, njih mi je isprintao Zlatko Grom još ranije tokom godine, a STL datoteka je isto tako od Deadly Print Studio-a, kao i raketa sa dimnim tragom, te eksplozije na vrhovima dimnih tragova:

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2023-01-02 15:21:27" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2023-01-02 15:21:27" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "46" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Goran" ["last_name"]=> string(7) "Krunić" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "goran" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(6) "krunic" ["username"]=> string(6) "GoranK" ["password"]=> string(40) "bd911c73eb78686e59996538590c37e24ced47f6" ["born"]=> string(19) "2012-06-05 22:39:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2012-06-05 22:40:18" } }
    Goran Krunić, 2nd January 2023

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