Association of miniature collectors, modellers and tabletop wargamers "Agram"

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• Making a plexiglass protection box

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      ["title_eng"]=>
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      string(38) "Izrada zaštitne kutije od pleksiglasa"
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  	Since the article about the Tabletop World terrain table done for Frostgrave was published, I received several questions on how we protect such a gaming bord from dust and dirt when not in use, so I decided to make an article where I describe the process of making a plexiglass protection box for an entire board (in this case the Frostgrave bord) so it could be left on display in the shared spaces of my gaming club UMS „Agram“.
  
  	  
  
  	Planning
  
  	The table was 90 x 90 cm with a small wooden protection frame around it made primarily to be able to fit the protection box. The height of the tallest building (TTW Town Gate) was around 45cm. All this meant my protection box would need to be 90 x 90 x 50 cm in size. A quick sketch proved that I needed the following:
  
  	- 1 piece 90 x 90 cm of 5mm thick plexiglass
  
  	- 4 pieces 50 x 90 cm of 5mm thick plexiglass
  
  	- 6 pieces of 2 x 2 x 100 cm wooden slat (linden) for 4 x 90 cm for the upper frame and 4 x 50 cm for the legs
  
  	- 4 larger metal brackets
  
  	- 4 smaller metal brackets
  
  	- 4 pieces M5x60 mm screws (for the upper frame)
  
  	- roughly 100 M3x16 mm screws (for the legs and the plexiglass)
  
  	- screwdriver (or bits for the electric drill)
  
  	- electric drill (small and large)
  
  	- circular saw
  
  	- sanding paper
  
  	- meter
  
  	- permanent marker
  
  	- masking tape
  
  	  
  
  	Building
  
  	The building process began with carefully marking each slat where I needed to cut it. Using a large table mounted circular saw I cut the pieces to size. Fortunately, the saw I used had a laser pointer which made cutting the slats to exact size much easier. When the cutting was done, I sanded the cut areas with some sanding paper.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Next up I assembled the four 90cm long slats into a square wooden frame. Once done, I used my Proxxon electric drill to drill the holes for the M5x60 screws. I used a 3mm drill bit. After drilling, I fixed the frame with the screws. The frame still wasn't perfectly aligned. To align it, I decided I wouldn't use any extra bits. I would simply use the plexiglass (which was cut to exact specs professionally in the store). Using a 1,5mm drill bit on my Proxxon, I drilled the holes in the plexiglass and the wooden frame. Once I was done drilling the holes on each plank of the frame, I immediately fixed it with five M3x16 screws a side. Note: the plexiglass comes with a protective foil. Do not remove it until all the work is done to prevent accidental damage during the build.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	The upper part of the box was done. Next up were the legs. Using the M3x16mm screws I fixed one smaller and one larger bracket to each leg. Once all the legs were done, I fixed them to the upper part of the box. Once the frame was fully assembled, you can notice that due to the relatively small size of (even the larger) brackets, the legs are not perpendicular to the upper part of the box. In fact they were quite wobbly at this point. This isn't a worry as I would again use the plexiglass sides to fix the legs in place. However I decided to proceed with the assembly with the box installed on the Frostgrave board. This way I could place the legs perfectly in the corners of the board and then using the M3x16 screws fix the legs in place with plexiglass. This way, I would use the wooden planks for the structural strength of the entire box while the plexiglass sides would provide the shape and stability.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Finished product
  
  	Once the box was built, I carefully removed the protective foil from the plexiglass. In fact, as this was done just before a modelling show, I removed the foil at the show to prevent any possible damage to the case before it arrived at the show.
  
  	  
  "
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  	Otkako je objavljen članak o igraćoj ploči sa Tabletop World terenima napravljenom za Frostgrave, dobio sam nekoliko upita o tome kako štitimo takvu igraću ploču od prašine i prljavštine kada se ne koristi. Stoga sam odlučio napraviti članak u kojem opisujem postupak izrade kutije od pleksiglasa za cijelu ploču (u ovom slučaju tablu Frostgrave) kako bi se mogla ostaviti u zajedničkim prostorima koje koristi UMS „Agram“.
  
  	  
  
  	Planiranje
  
  	Stol je veličine 90 x 90 cm s malim drvenim zaštitnim okvirom oko njega izrađenim prvenstveno kako bi se u njega mogao uklopiti zaštitni okvir. Visina najviše zgrade (TTW Town Gate) je oko 45 cm. Sve to značilo je da bi moja zaštitna kutija trebala biti veličine 90 x 90 x 50 cm. Brza skica pokazala je da trebam sljedeće:
  
  	- 1 komad 90 x 90 cm pleksiglasa debljine 5 mm
  
  	- 4 komada 50 x 90 cm pleksiglasa debljine 5 mm
  
  	- 6 komada drvenih letvica 2 x 2 x 100 cm (lipa) dimenzija 4 x 90 cm za gornji okvir i 4 x 50 cm za noge
  
  	- 4 veća metalna kutnika
  
  	- 4 manja metalna kutnika
  
  	- 4 vijka M5x60 mm (za gornji okvir)
  
  	- otprilike 100 vijaka M3x16 mm (za noge i pleksiglas)
  
  	- odvijač (ili nastavci za električnu bušilicu)
  
  	- električna bušilica (mala i velika)
  
  	- kružna pila
  
  	- brusni papir
  
  	- metar
  
  	- permanentni flomaster
  
  	- krep traka
  
  	  
  
  	Izrada
  
  	Proces izrade započeo je pažljivim označavanjem svake letvice na mjesta gdje sam ih trebao izrezati. Pomoću velike stolne kružne pile izrezao sam komade po veličini. Srećom, pila koju sam koristio imala je laserski pokazivač što je znatno olakšalo rezanje letvica na točne dimenzije. Kad je rezanje obavljeno, mjesta rezanja sam pobrusio brusnim papirom.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Potom sam sastavio četiri letvice dugačke 90 cm u kvadratni drveni okvir. Koristio sam električnu bušilicu Proxxon kako bih izbušio rupe za vijke M5x60. Koristio sam svrdlo promjera 3 mm. Nakon bušenja, pričvrstio sam okvir vijcima. Okvir još uvijek nije bio savršeno poravnat. Da bih ga poravnao, odlučio sam da neću koristiti nikakve dodatne dijelove. Jednostavno ću koristiti pleksiglas (koji je profesionalno izrezan za točne specifikacije u trgovini). Koristeći bušilicu sa svrdlom promjera 1,5 mm, izbušio sam rupe u pleksiglasu i drvenom okviru. Kad sam završio s bušenjem rupa na svakoj dasci okvira, odmah sam ga fiksirao s pet M3x16 vijaka sa svake strane. Napomena: na pleksiglasu dolazi zaštitna folija. Ne uklanjajte je sve dok se ne urade svi radovi kako biste spriječili slučajno oštećenje tijekom izrade.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Time je završila izrada gornje površine kutije. Sljedile su noge. Pomoću vijaka M3x16mm pričvrstio sam po jedan manji i jedan veći nosač na svaku nogu te ih potom pričvrstio na gornju površinu kutije. Nakon što je okvir u potpunosti sastavljen, možete primijetiti da zbog relativno male veličine (čak i većih) kutnika, noge nisu okomite na gornji dio kutije. Zapravo su u ovom trenutku bile prilično labave. To me nije brinulo jer ću opet koristiti stranice od pleksiglasa da učvrstim noge. Ipak sam odlučio nastaviti s montažom kutije tako da sam ju postavio na ploču Frostgrave. Na taj način sam mogao savršeno postaviti noge u kutove ploče, a zatim pomoću vijaka M3x16 učvrstiti noge na pleksiglas. Na ovaj način drvene daske daju strukturalnu čvrstoću cijele kutije dok stranice od pleksiglasa pružaju oblik i stabilnost.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Gotova ogledna kutija
  
  	Kada je kutija završena, pažljivo sam skinuo zaštitnu foliju s pleksiglasa.
  
  	  
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  Marko Paunović, 9th August 2020
• Building a 120 x 180 cm gaming board – part 2

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  	In the last article I covered the start of a single piece 180 x 120 cm gaming board. This time, I'll be continuing the build by adding texture, painting and flocking the entire board. As mentioned in the last issue this board was built for my club's event in July of 2018 called Legen Invitational.
  
  	  
  
  	Since all the planning for the build was done last time, we won't repeat it here. So far we've built the wooden frame and cut the high density styrofoam boards to size. Once we were satisfied with the result, we glued the styrofoam into the frame using PVA glue and left it to cure properly.
  
  	Our club member, Goran Krunić, stepped in to help Ana with the work in my stead. For the work covered in this article, they used:
  
  	- glues - PVA 1kg
  
  	- paints and spreys
  
  	- 6 Pebeo Deco Paints (black, white, grey, dark brown, ochre and ash), one black matt acrylic sprey and one clear matt acrylic sprey
  
  	- large brushes No 90, No 40
  
  	- static grass - various
  
  	- sand and gravel (3 - 4 sizes)
  
  	- scalpel blade
  
  	- sanding paper
  
  	- masking tape
  
  	Sanding
  
  	Once the styrofoam boards were set, they needed to be sanded down in order to remove the diamond shaped pattern. When choosing the styrofoam, my advice is to try and find smoothe ones. However, smoothe ones weren't available when we did our shopping so we were stuck with the patterned ones. Removing these patterns can be a tedious job, especially on large surfaces as this. Therefore Ana made a makeshift tool for sanding by placing a piece of sanding paper around a cardboard box. After sanding, use a large brush to remove any and all particles. At this point, the guys just chucked it all to the floor and swiped the floors with a broom upon the end of the building session.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Adding texture
  
  	Next step was to add the texture. Since we all agreed that the entire board would be more or less uniform, we didn't do any features (like roads, rivers, lakes etc.). This made things easier to texture. Ana divided the entire board into several sectors to make the job easier. First she covered one sector with a slightly watered down PVA (just enough so it would spread easily). Then she sprinkled some larger bits of gravel, adding more texture progressively going from larger granulate to smaller. The final granulate size was smallest chinchilla sand. She repeated the process in all the other sectors. Once the texturing was done, the entire building area was cleaned with a broom.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Painting
  
  	Leaving to dry overnight, Ana continued the process in the morning with an application of a black undercoat. She used a black matt acrylic sprey. After it was dry, she proceeded to paint the board. The board was first painted with dark brown. The process of drybrushing was continued with several layers of brown and ochre with a final finish of ash. As the board was basicly a uniform surface she painted everything using a size 90 brush. When the paints were dry, Ana spreyed everything with a clear matt acrylic sprey.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Vegetation
  
  	After the painting, as always, Ana and Goran added the vegetation. It was basicly a mixture of several kinds of static grass – a brownish 3mm long one, a yellowish-brown 5mm long one and some yellowish 7mm tufts. To create better variety, Ana mixed several mixes of different colours and applied them all with watered down PVA glue. In order to add even more diversity, Goran helped her make a home made static grass applicator which was described in one of our former articles! As you can see the grass applied with the static grass applicator, really stands up no matter how short the fibres are.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	This marks the end of the Legen board build.
  
  	  
  "
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  	U prošlom smo članku započeli smo izradu jednodjelne igraće ploče veličine 180 x 120 cm. Ovog puta Ana nastavlja izgradnju dodavanjem teksture, bojanjem i dodavanjem vegetacije na ploču. Kao što je spomenuto u prošlom broju, ova je ploča sagrađena za međunarodni event u srpnju 2018. godine pod nazivom Legen Invitational.
  
  	  
  
  	Budući da je sve planiranje izgradnje napravljeno prošli put, ovdje ga nećemo ponavljati. Do sada smo izgradili drveni okvir i izrezali ploče od stirodura. Nakon što smo bili zadovoljni rezultatom, zaljepili smo stirodur u okvir pomoću PVA ljepila i ostavili ga da se osuši.
  
  	Član Udruge Goran Krunić je zamjenio Marka i pripomogao mi pri dovršenju table. Za rad opisan u ovom članku koristili smo:
  
  	- ljepila - PVA 1kg
  
  	- boje i sprejevi - 6 Pebeo Deco boja (black, white, grey, ocre, brown i ash), jedna crna mat akrilna sprej i jedna bistra mat akrilna sprej
  
  	- veliki kistovi (pemzle) br. 90, br. 40
  
  	- statična trava - razna
  
  	- pijesak i šljunak (3 - 4 veličine)
  
  	- skalpel
  
  	- brusni papir
  
  	- krep traka
  
  	Brušenje
  
  	Nakon postavljanja ploča stirodura potrebno ih je pobrusiti kako biste uklonili uzorak u obliku dijamanta. Prilikom odabira stirodura moj je savjet da pokušate naći glatke ploče. Međutim, glatke nam nisu bile dostupne dok smo kupovali. Uklanjanje ovih uzoraka može biti naporan posao, pogotovo na ovako velikim površinama. Stoga sam napravila improvizirani alat za brušenje, stavljajući komad brusnog papira oko kartonske kutije. Nakon brušenja, velikom pemzlom uklonite sve čestice. U tom su trenutku ekipa je sve to bacila na pod, a po završetku izrade sve smo pomeli.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Dodavanje teksture
  
  	Sljedeći korak bio je dodavanje teksture. Budući da smo se svi složili da će cijela ploča biti manje-više ujednačena, nismo izradili nikakve specijalne dodatke (poput cesta, rijeka, jezera itd.). To je u stvari olakšalo teksturiranje.Podijelila sam cijelu ploču u nekoliko sektora kako bih si olakšala posao. Prvo sam jedan sektor prekrila lagano razvodnjenim PVA ljepilom (tek toliko da se lako razmazuje). Zatim sam posipala nekoliko većih komada šljunka, dodajući teksturu koja progresivno napreduje od većeg granulata do manjeg. Konačna veličina granulata bila je najmanji pijesak za činčile. Ponovila sam postupak u svim ostalim sektorima. Nakon završetka teksture, čitav prostor je šegrt Goran pomeo.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Bojanje
  
  	Ostavši tablu da se osuši preko noći, ujutro sam nastavila postupak nanošenjem crne boje (undercoat). Koristila sam crni mat akrilni sprej. Nakon što se boja osušila, nastavila sam proces bojanja ploče. Ploča je prvo obojena tamno smeđom bojom. Proces bojanja suhim kistom (drybrush) je nastavljen s nekoliko slojeva smeđe i oker boje, s konačnim finišom boje pepela (ash). Kako je ploča u osnovi jednolika površina, obojila sam sve koristeći pemzlu veličine 90. Kad su se boje osušile, sve smo posprejali prozirnim mat akrilnim sprejom.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Vegetacija
  
  	Uz pomoć Gorana sam nakon bojanja, kao i uvijek, dodala vegetaciju. Bila je to uglavnom mješavina nekoliko vrsta statičke trave - smeđe boje duge 3 mm, žućkasto-smeđe boje 5 mm i nekih žućkastih tonova od 7 mm. Kako bi stvorila bolju raznolikost, pomiješala sam nekoliko različitih boja i sve nanijela na površinu premazanu vodom natopljenim PVA ljepilom. Kako bi dodao još više raznolikosti, Goran mi je pomogao da napravim domaći statički aplikator za travu, što je već detaljno opisano OVDJE! Kao što možete vidjeti kada se trava nanosi pomoću statičkog aplikatora, zaista se uspravlja bez obzira na to koliko su kratka vlakna.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	To označava kraj izrade ploče za Legen.
  
  	  
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  Ana Polanšćak, 9th August 2020
• Building a 120 x 180 cm gaming board – part 1

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  	In this and next article, I'll be writing about building a single piece gaming board. This particular board was built for my club's event in July 2018 called Legen Invitational. Legen was a one day invitational event consisting of a single multiplayer game of Age of Sigmar skirmish. The weight was on the narrative aspect rather than the competitive. The game itself was preceded by months of preparations by the invited participants, including converting and painting warbands, monsters and NPCs; building custom table and scenery for the scenario; inventing rules and backstories for the characters represented by the miniatures, and sharing the results of that work with the wider community through blogs and social media.
  
  	  
  
  	When making such a board, as with every big project, you need to make the blueprints and carefully think everything through. What size will the board be, what materials to use, overall properties of the board (weight and size), primary use...
  
  	Planning
  
  	Here is the list of needs and wants:
  
  	1. lightweight N
  
  	2. 120 x 180 cm playing area N
  
  	3. details W
  
  	3.1. one level N
  
  	3.2. as smoothe as possible (to easily accommodate separate terrain) N
  
  	3.3. without too many (if any) features like roads, rivers etc N
  
  	4. sturdy enough for gaming N
  
  	5. layout of the board once covered with terrain – PICTURE 1
  
  	  
  
  	When we compiled the list, already some things were begining to come to light. The need for light material to be used made the choice easy – only HD Styrofoam could meet the demand on such a large surface. However, the need for sturdy frame meant that the table had to have a wooden frame. Due to the whole size of the board demanded that the board have supporting struts. This in turn meant that the board would be at least 4 – 6 cm high to accommodate the struts underneath the HD styrofoam board. The next step was to try and engineer the wooden frame so that we could place the HD styrofoam inside and have plenty of support from the frame and the struts.
  
  	  
  
  	However, once I visited the DIY store, I found that I only had access to 240cm long beams. That meant that I needed two to make the longitudinal parts of the frame and that it wouldn't leave me enough material for the shorter edges. So the first design had to be revisited and new drawings had to be made. While designing I had two ideas. One was to make it possible for the table to have two faces, the other to have several levels on the Legen board. In the end we opted for the first design and decided to add the second face to the board at a later stage.
  
  	  
  
  	With the design done, I made a list of materials and tools needed.
  
  	- glues - PVA 1kg
  
  	- paints and spreys
  
  	- 6 Pebeo Deco Paints (black, white, grey, dark brown, ochre and ash), one black matt acrylic sprey and one clear matt acrylic sprey
  
  	- large brushes No 90, No 40
  
  	- high density sytyrofoam - 3 boards (1200 x 600 x 20 mm)
  
  	- wooden beams - 3 pieces (19 x 60 x 2400 mm) for wooden frame
  
  	- wooden beams - 2 pieces (19 x 29 x 2400 mm) for supporting struts
  
  	- screws – 40 pieces (M4 x 40mm)
  
  	- static grass - various
  
  	- sand and gravel (3 - 4 sizes)
  
  	- scalpel blade
  
  	- laser measure
  
  	- sliding cross cut mitre saw
  
  	- 90° angle corner clamp
  
  	- electric drill (drill bits and screwdriver bits)
  
  	- sanding paper
  
  	- masking tape
  
  	When you make such a list, you can also add where you can buy those items and it'll make your shopping easier and faster.
  
  	Actual build
  
  	First step was to mark and cut to size all the wooden beams. As per design, I needed two beams 19 x 60 x 183,8 cm, two beams 19 x 60 x 120 cm and four beams 19 x 29 x 120 cm. You could use a normal meter, but I had a laser measure handy so decided to use this instead.
  
  	  
  
  	Upon marking all the cutting lines, I used a sliding cross cut metre saw to cut all the pieces exactly to size. Luckily, my saw came with a laser as well which made cutting really easy. Of course, if you do not have access to such tools, same thing can be achieved with a normal hand held saw. It'll just take a bit more time and you'll need to be careful when cutting to maintain perpendicularity of the surfaces.
  
  	  
  
  	When the cutting was done, I assembled the wooden frame using 90° angle corner clamps to hold my wooden beams in place while I drilled the holes for the screws and screwed them in place. I wouldn't suggest trying to assemble a similar frame without any clamps. These tools can easily be obtained over ebay for about 10 GBP for a set of four.
  
  	  
  
  	After the frame was assembled, we placed the HD styrofoam boards inside the frame and using them as tallons we added two supporting struts next to the shorter edges of the board. These would be used for the HD styrofoam boards to sit on them once the board was fully constructed.
  
  	  
  
  	The next step was to fix the HD styrofoam boards to the frame using masking tape. This way, the wooden frame would be the template we would use to cut the HD styrofoam boards to size to snuggly fit inside the frame.
  
  	  
  
  	Using a really sharp scalpel blade extended fully, we cut the styrofoam to size. The extra material was saved just in case we needed it to plug any and all holes that might occur due to the imprecise cutting caused by a dull blade. We started with a sharp blade, but the ammount of cutting has rendered the blade almost useless by the end of the process.
  
  	  
  
  	Once the styrofoam was cut, we placed the boards inside the frame and added the final two supporting struts making sure that half the area of the strut was under one styrofoam board and the other half under the second board.
  
  	  
  
  	The last thing we did for this issue was to glue the styrofoam boards to the wooden frame using PVA glue and left it to dry overnight.
  
  	  
  
  	In the next article I'll cover the texturing, painting and flocking of the board.
  "
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  	U ovom i sljedećem članku pisat ću o izradi jednodijelne igraće ploče. Ova posebna ploča sagrađena je za međunarodni event u srpnju 2018. godine pod nazivom Legen Invitational. Legen je bio jednodnevni pozivni događaj, koji se sastojao od jedne multiplayer igre Age of Sigmar. Fokus je bio na narativnom aspektu, a ne natjecateljskom. Samoj igri prethodili su višemjesečne pripreme pozvanih sudionika, uključujući konvertiranje i bojanje ratnika, čudovišta i NPC-a; izrada table i terena izrađenih po mjeri za scenarij; kreiranja pravila i pozadinske priče za likove predstavljene minijaturama i dijeljenje rezultata tog rada sa široj zajednici putem blogova i društvenih medija.
  
  	  
  
  	Prilikom izrade takve ploče, kao i kod svakog velikog projekta, trebate napraviti nacrte i pažljivo razmisliti o svemu. Koje će dimenzije ploče biti, kakvi će se materijali koristiti, ukupna svojstva ploče (težina i veličina), primarna upotreba ...
  
  	Planiranje
  
  	Slijedi lista zahtjeva i želja:
  
  	1. lagana Z
  
  	2. 120 x 180 cm Z
  
  	3. detalji Ž
  
  	3.1. jedna razina Z
  
  	3.2. što ravnija (kako biste lako smjestili odvojene teren) Z
  
  	3.3. bez previše (ako ih ima) značajki poput cesta, rijeka itd. Z
  
  	4. dovoljno čvrst i stabilan za igranje Z
  
  	5. izgled ploče jednom prekrivene terenom - SLIKA 1
  
  	  
  
  	Kad smo sastavili listu, neke stvari su već počele izlaziti na vidjelo. Potreba da se koristi lagani materijal olakšala je izbor - samo stirodur mogao je zadovoljiti potražnju na tako velikoj površini. Međutim, potreba za čvrstim okvirom značila je da stol mora imati drveni okvir. Zbog svoje veličine ploča je zahtijevalo ugradnju potpornje. To je zauzvrat značilo da će ploča biti visoka najmanje 4 - 6 cm, kako bi se mogli smjestiti potpornji ispod ploče od stirodura. Sljedeći je korak bilo dizajniranje drvenog okvira kako bismo unutar njega mogli staviti stirodur koji će nasjedati na okvir i nosač.
  
  	  
  
  	Međutim, nakon što sam posjetio trgovinu proizvoda radi sam, ustanovio sam da imam pristup samo gredama dugim 240 cm. To je značilo da su mi potrebna dva da napravim uzdužne dijelove okvira i da mi neće ostaviti dovoljno materijala za kraće rubove. Dakle, prvi dizajn morao je biti revidiran i morali su se napraviti novi crteži. Dok sam dizajnirao imao sam dvije ideje. Jedno je bilo omogućiti stolu dva lica, a drugo da na ploču stavim nekoliko razina. Na kraju smo se odlučili za prvi dizajn i odlučili smo naknadno dodati drugo lice ploči.
  
  	  
  
  	Sa gotovim dizajnom, mogao sam napraviti popis potrebnih materijala i alata:
  
  	- ljepila - PVA 1kg
  
  	- boje i sprejevi
  
  	- 6 Pebeo Deco boja (black, white, grey, ocre, brown, ash), jedan crni mat akrilni sprej i jedan prozirni mat akrilni sprej
  
  	- veliki kistovi (pemzle) br. 90, br. 40
  
  	- stirodur - 3 ploče (1200 x 600 x 20 mm)
  
  	- drvene grede - 3 komada (19 x 60 x 2400 mm) za drveni okvir
  
  	- drvene grede - 2 komada (19 x 29 x 2400 mm) za potpornje
  
  	- vijci - 40 komada (M4 x 40 mm)
  
  	- statična trava - razna
  
  	- pijesak i šljunak (3 - 4 veličine)
  
  	- skalpel
  
  	- laserska mjerka
  
  	- klizna kružna pila za rezanje
  
  	- kutne stezaljke od 90 °
  
  	- električna bušilica (sa svrdlima za bušenje i nastavcima za odvijanje)
  
  	- brusni papir
  
  	- krep traka.
  
  	Kada napravite takav popis, možete dodati i mjesto gdje možete kupiti te predmete, a to će učiniti vašu kupovinu lakšom i bržom.
  
  	Izgradnja
  
  	Prvi korak bio je obilježavanje i rezanje svih drvenih greda po veličini. Prema dizajnu, trebale su mi dvije grede 19 x 60 x 183,8 cm, dvije grede 19 x 60 x 120 cm i četiri grede 19 x 29 x 120 cm. Mogli biste koristiti normalan metar, ali ja sam imao pri ruci lasersku mjerku pa sam ju odlučio koristiti umjesto toga.
  
  	  
  
  	Kad sam označio sve linije rezanja, koristio sam kliznu kružnu pilu kako bih sve dijelove izrezao točno po veličini. Srećom, i pila je stigla s laserom, što je rezanje učinilo vrlo jednostavnim. Naravno, ako nemate pristup takvim alatima, isto se može postići i običnom ručnom pilom. Samo će vam trebati malo više vremena i morat ćete biti oprezni prilikom rezanja kako biste održali okomitost površina.
  
  	  
  
  	Kad je rezanje obavljeno, sastavio sam drveni okvir pomoću kutnih stezaljki pod kutom od 90 ° da drvene grede držim na mjestu, dok sam bušio rupe za vijke i pričvrstio ih na željenom mjestu. Ne bih predložio pokušaj sastavljanja sličnog okvira bez stezaljki. Ovi se alati lako mogu dobiti preko ebay-a za otprilike 100 kn za komplet od četiri.
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon sklapanja okvira, unutar okvira smo postavili ploče od stirodura i koristeći ih za talon dodali smo dva potpornja uz kraće rubove ploče. Oni će se koristiti za postavljanje ploča od stirodura nakon što je ploča u potpunosti izgrađena.
  
  	  
  
  	Sljedeći je korak bio pričvrstiti stirodurne ploče na okvir pomoću krep trake. Tako drveni okvir postaje predložak koji bismo koristili za rezanje ploča od stirodura kako bi se čvrsto uklopili u okvir.
  
  	  
  
  	Pomoću stvarno oštrog skalpela (u potpunosti izvučenog), režemo stirodur na željenu/označenu veličinu. Dodatni materijal je spremljen za slučaj da nam zatreba sve rupe koje se mogu pojaviti zbog nepreciznog rezanja uzrokovanog tupim sječivom. Krenuli smo s oštrim nožem, ali količina rezanja učinila je oštricu gotovo beskorisnom do kraja postupka.
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon što je stirodur izrezan, postavili smo ploče unutar okvira i dodali posljednja dva potporna nosača pazeći da polovica površine potpornja bude ispod jedne ploče stirodura, a druga polovica ispod druge ploče.
  
  	  
  
  	Posljednje što smo učinili, bilo je ljepljenje ploča stirodura na drveni okvir pomoću PVA ljepila. Ostavili smo tablu da se osuši preko noći.
  
  	  
  
  	U sljedećem ću članku opisati stavljanje teksture, bojanje i stavljanje vegetacije na ploču.
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  Marko Paunović, 9th August 2020
• How To Build A Fantasy Peasant House

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      ["title_eng"]=>
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      ["title_hrv"]=>
      string(19) "Izrada seoske kuće"
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  	This article will be depicting the design and build process of one of the types of terrain I made - scratch-built peasant houses.
  
  	  
  
  	Materials:
  
  	• polystyrene
  
  	• balsa wood (1mm, 2mm)
  
  	• DAS clay
  
  	• MDF base
  
  	• pelt of a teddy bear
  
  	• masking tape
  
  	• PVA glue
  
  	• superglue
  
  	• pins
  
  	• wooden toothpicks
  
  	• wire
  
  	• blister pack
  
  	• insect net
  
  	• water-based acrylic paint
  
  	Tools:
  
  	• hobby knife
  
  	• clippers
  
  	• brushes
  
  	• sculpting tools
  
  	• ruler
  
  	The core shape of the house was assembled from polystyrene and toothpicks, and covered with masking tape. It all stands on a flat MDF base. This underlying construction is sturdy and easy to build upon, so it's a good choice if the house is closed, with no built and playable interior. It is deliberately slightly crooked and irregular, with a sagging roof, which all gives character to a fantasy building.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Next, I grabbed 2mm balsa and got started on the wood of the roof. Only the parts of the wooden roof structure that would be visible are important. No need to bother with the rest since it will be covered with thatch. This way you save on both time and material.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Next came the wooden framework of the walls. Also made of 2mm balsa, glued with PVA. This piece represents a house built with wattle and daub method. The framework of the walls is made of wood, and the empty spaces are filled with a woven lattice of wooden stakes and twigs called wattle, which is then daubed with a wet mix of dirt, clay, dung and straw. This is quite good quality and much more affordable than a fully wooden structure. The house can finally be whitewashed to get this neater look.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	A house needs windows. These are an opportunity to add points of interest on the model. Leaded windows are commonly seen on fantasy houses, and they are really not that difficult to make. Insect net, blister pack plastic. I cut the square shapes with scissors, glued net to plastic and then the whole thing to the wall. Built the window frames around the glass because it's easier to make it fit that way. A trick for the window frame pieces to fit better is by cutting them one on top of the other. The angle will then be exactly the same without measuring. Again, to get this crooked feel avoid perfect right angles, and the windows can slightly differ in size. The building process is relaxed, without much measuring and precise cutting. This is how the finished windows look. Other windows will have shutters to add variety.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	The space between the wooden beams was then filled with DAS clay to represent the wattle and daub. I normally do this with my fingers and leave it uneven and messy. Only always make sure not to leave fingerprints behind - having those showing is on the same immersion-killing level as having mould lines on a painted miniature. Simple water helps smooth things out. Before applying the clay, I smear some PVA on the surface for DAS to adhere better. I learnt early on that if your polystyrene has a textured surface, do sand it smooth first. The texture be visible in the overlaying clay after it cures because it shrinks a bit. You can still fix that with another layer of DAS on top, but it's better to prevent it from happening at all.
  
  	  
  
  	While the clay was still wet I added more detail to the overhang of the roof. It's just toothpicks, cut in half, with the pointy end dipped in PVA and pushed into the wall just where it meets the roof. This represents supporting structure.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Doors and shutters are done the same way. First, basic shape and size is cut from 1mm balsa. Then it was marked and cut into vertical planks. Each plank got wood grain engraved with a pointy sculpting tool, and each was distressed around the edges with a knife. Then, the planks are glued into place in the door frame/over the window. The 'empty space' behind the door/shutter was painted black before that, since it would otherwise have been hard to reach. Thinking ahead saves you from frustration later...
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Metal details give the doors and shutters character and interest. Cut up blister packaging, pins, metal rings... These are best fixed with superglue.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	After this I just added texture on the house's base, and it was ready for painting. The whole thing can be primed white, but I did not find that necessary. The walls were already the right colour, and balsa was to be painted darker than its natural colour. I only undercoated the door and windows because they were made of a variety of different-coloured and even transparent materials. Painting it white first offers an equal base, and maybe more importantly it makes it more clearly visible what you've made. You need that when you're painting.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	The painting on this was very loose and fun. A succession of grey and brown glazes on the wood and a bit of light staining on the whitewashed walls. Special attention is given to the doors and windows, as they usually attract the eye. After glazes, they got a lighter overbrush, but only in the direction of the wood grain (so, vertically). This is followed by a layer of mat black on the metal, which is finally rusted up.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	I intended from the start to include a little porch, but I left it off until the time the door was painted, since it would have been difficult to reach otherwise. Same goes for the charming henhouse that leans on the side of the house. Porch has decoratively carved pillars and roof. All this was done just with a hobby knife and a modeller's file. The henhouse was constructed fully from balsa. As visible in the pictures, some parts were partly painted while it was still being built, again to avoid leaving those difficult to reach areas unpainted.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	After the messiest part of painting is done, the teddy fur thatch can be glued into place. I prefer to do it in this order to avoid fur getting in the way when painting the underlying wood. The fur itself was already the right colour, so did not need to be fully repainted, just fixed a bit. You don't necessarily need to flay a teddy to get your fur; they sell fur by the yard for teddy makers. But that is a more expensive option. The fur thatch is best done by cutting horizontal strips with scissors and pasting them onto the roof, starting from the bottom and with strips slightly overlapping. I used pins to fix it all in place until the glue set. They need to be pulled out afterwards.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	You will notice it looks very fuzzy and not exactly like thatch yet. To make it more like straw, I applied a mix of water, PVA and light brown paint. Used a large stiff brush and brushed this mix on. I only pulled my brush in the downward direction, following the flow of the hairs. This is also how water would normally go down the roof during rainfall.
  
  	  
  
  	After this, the roof will be pretty drenched and it will take some time for it to dry. Best leave it overnight. When it was completely dry, I added the chimney, the wooden ridge, and some planks nailed to the roof. The latter are mostly an aesthetic choice, since they help break up the large, relatively bland surface.
  
  	  
  
  	It's the little extra details that really help sell the scenery piece as a house someone inhabits. An everyday object, such as a simple, rickety ladder can be made from balsa and cut up toothpicks. Or what I put on this house: protective objects nailed to the roof. One is an animal skull, the other an effigy of the household spirit. The skull is a plaster copy of a skull I had previously sculpted in green stuff. The house patron was sculpted directly onto the house with DAS clay, a crude representation of a homunculus shape. The image is framed by a shape of a house, hinting at the spirit's function. One doesn't need to be adept at sculpting to make this happen. Bits leftover from kits, or bits designed for dioramas and basing are a good solution, too.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	The final step is adding some flock and static grass to the base.
  
  	Building this kind of house is not complicated and it doesn't require expensive materials nor tools. The more time is spent on it and the more thought and attention given to details, the more spectacular it will be.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  "
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  	Ovaj članak će prikazati postupak izrade seoske kuće.
  
  	  
  
  	Materijali:
  
  	• stirodur
  
  	• balza (1 mm, 2 mm)
  
  	• DAS glinamol
  
  	• MDF ploča
  
  	• krzno plišanog medvjeda
  
  	• krep traka
  
  	• PVA ljepilo
  
  	• super ljepilo
  
  	• pribadače
  
  	• drvene čačkalice
  
  	• žica
  
  	• blister pakiranje
  
  	• mreža protiv insekata
  
  	• akrilne boje
  
  	Alati:
  
  	• skalpel
  
  	• škare
  
  	• kistovi
  
  	• kiparski alati
  
  	• ravnalo
  
  	Osnovni oblik kuće sastavljen je od stirodura i čačkalica i prekriven krep trakom. Sve je postavljeno na bazu od MDF-a. Ovakva konstrukcija je čvrsta i jednostavna za gradnju, pa je dobar izbor ako je kuća zatvorena, bez izgrađenog interijera za igranje. Teren je namjerno blago iskrivljen i nepravilan, s nakrivljenim krovom koji daje dodatan karakter zgradi.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Zatim sam zgrabila balzu od 2 mm i počela s drvenim dijelovima krova. Važni su samo dijelovi drvene krovne konstrukcije koji će biti vidljivi. Ne treba se zamarati s ostatkom, jer će biti prekriven ‘slamom’. Na taj način štedite i vrijeme i materijal.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Slijede drvene grede na zidovima, također izrađene od balze od 2 mm, zalijepljene PVA ljepilom. Kod pravih kuća ovog tipa, okvir zidova izrađen je od drveta, a šupljina između ispunjena je ispletenim granjem koje se premazujemješavinom gline, slame i životinjskog izmeta. Takve zgrade su prilično dobre kvalitete, a i mnogo jeftinije za izgraditi od potpuno drvene konstrukcije. Kuća se na kraju može izbijeliti kako bi dobila ovaj uredniji izgled.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Kući trebaju i prozori. Ovo je prilika za dodavanje interesantnih detalja. Prozori s okvirima od olova često se viđaju na kućama u fantasy svijetovima, a stvarno ih nije tako teško napraviti. Mreža protiv insekata i blister pakiranje je sve što vam je potrebno. Rezala sam kvadratne oblike škarama, zali-jepila mrežu na plastiku, a zatim to sve skupa na zid. Izradite okvire prozora oko stakla jer ih je lakše tako prilagoditi. Opet, da biste dobili iskrivljeni izgled izbjegavajte savršene prave kutove, a prozori se mogu malo razlikovati i u veličini. Proces gradnje je opušten, bez puno mjerenja i preciznog rezanja. Ovako izgledaju gotovi prozori. Ostali prozori imati će škure radi raznolikosti.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Prostor između drvenih greda bio je tada ispunjen DAS glinamolom koji predstavlja smjesu gline i slame. Obično to radim prstima i ostavljam neravnom i neurednom. Uvijek pazite da ne ostavite otiske prstiju - jer kad se vide jednako ubijaju doživljaj kao i ostaci srhova na obojanoj minijaturi. Voda vam pomaže izgladiti površine. Prije nanošenja gline, na površinu razmažem malo PVA ljepila kako bi se DAS bolje prijanjao. Ako stirodur ima teksturiranu površinu, prvo ga izbrusite jer tekstura će biti vidljiva i nakon prekrivanja glinamolom (glinamol se skupi tijekom stvrdnjavanja). Još se uvijek to može popraviti s drugim slojem DAS glinamola, ali bolje je spriječiti da se uopće ne dogodi.
  
  	  
  
  	Dok je glinamol bio još vlažan, dodala sam još detalja na krovnu strukturu. To su, zapravo, samo čačkalice, prerezane na pola, sa šiljastim krajem umočenim u PVA ljepilo i gurnute u zid upravo tamo gdje se zid susreće s krovom. To predstavlja potpornu strukturu krova.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Vrata i škure se rade na jednak način. Prvo, osnovni oblik se izrezuje od balze debljine 1 mm. Zatim je označen i izrezan u okomite daske. Na svaku dasku su ugravirani drveni godovi sa šiljastim kiparskim alatom (šilo), a svaki se rub ostrugao nožem. Zatim se daske zalijepe na svoje mjesto u okvir vrata / preko prozora. "Prazan prostor" iza vrata / škura bio je obojen crnom bojom prije postavljanja daski, jer bi inače bilo teško doseći ta mjesta kistom nakon završetka izrade. Razmišljanje unaprijed spasi vas od kasnije frustracije ...
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Metalni detalji daju vratima i škurama karakter i pojačavaju dojam. Koristite blister pakiranje, priba-dače, metalne prstenove... Najbolje ih je učvrstiti super ljepilom.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon ovoga, samo sam dodala teksturu na bazi kuće i bila je spremna za bojanje. Cijela se stvar može premazati bijelom bojom, ali nisam mislila da je to potrebno. Zidovi su već bili „prave boje“, a balza je trebala biti samo obojena tamnijom od svoje prirodne boje. Undercoat-am samo vrata i prozore jer su izrađeni od materijala raznih boja pa čak i prozirnih materijala. Oslikavanje bijelom bojom (undercoat) prvo nudi jednaku bazu, a što je još važnije jest da će se jasnije vidjeti što ste napravili. To vam treba kad bojate.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Bojanje ove makete je bilo opušteno i zabavno. Niz sivih i smeđih glazeova na drvetu i malo posvjetljavanja na izbijeljenim zidovima. Posebna se pažnja posvećuje vratima i prozorima, jer obično privlače oko. Nakon glazeva dobili su highlight, ali samo u smjeru godova drveta (okomito). Nakon toga slijedi sloj mat crne boje na metalu, na koji se na kraju dodala hrđa.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Namjeravala sam od početka ubaciti i mali trijem, ali sam ga izostavila do trenutka kad su vrata obojena jer bi bilo teško doći do njih od trijema. Isto vrijedi i za kokošinjac koji se naslanja na stranu kuće. Trijem ima ukrasno rezbarene stupove i krov. Sve je to učinjeno samo skalpelom i modelarskom rašpicom. Kokošinjac je izgrađen u potpunosti od balze. Kao što je vidljivo na slikama, neki su dijelovi dijelom pobojani dok je još bio u procesu građenja, a opet kako bi se izbjeglo da ta teško dostupna područja ostanu neobojena.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon što je najneuredniji dio bojanja bio gotov, plišano krzno može biti zalijepljeno na svoje mjesto. Radije to radim tim redoslijedom kako se krzno ne bi zamrljalo prilikom bojanja temeljne boje. Krzno je samo po sebi već bilo odgovarajuće boje pa ga se nije trebalo u potpunosti prebojati, već samo malo popraviti. Ne morate nužno oguliti kožu sa vašeg plišanog medvjedića da biste nabavili krzno; krzno se prodaje po metru za proizvođače plišanih životinja. Ali to je skuplja opcija. Krzno je najbolje izrezati škarama na vodoravne trake i zalijepiti ih na krov, počevši od dna i lagano preklapajući trake. Koristila sam pribadače da to sve pričvrstim na željeno mjesto dok se ljepilo ne posuši. Pribadače poslije treba izvući.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Primijetit ćete da izgleda vrlo razbarušeno i još uvijek nije baš izgleda slamnatog krova. Da bi više sličila slami, nanijela sam mješavinu vode, PVA ljepila i svijetlosmeđe/oker boje. Upotrijebila sam veliki kruti kist i učetkala ovu smjesu na krov. Povlačila sam kist u smjeru prema dolje, prateći tok vlasi. To je i način na koji bi voda obično curila niz krov tijekom kiše.
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon toga krov će biti prilično natopljen i trebat će neko vrijeme da se osuši. Najbolje je ostaviti preko noći. Kad se posve osušio, dodala sam dimnjak, drveni greben i nekoliko dasaka prikovanih za krov. Potonji su uglavnom estetski odabir, jer pomažu u razbijanju velike, relativno dosadne površine.
  
  	  
  
  	Mali su dodatni detalji koji stvarno pomažu da maketa izgleda poput kuće u kojoj netko živi. Sva-kodnevni predmeti, poput jednostavnih ljestvi, mogu se napraviti od balze i izrezanih čačkalica. Ili ono što sam stavila na ovu zgradu: predmete prikovane za krov u svrhu zaštite od zla. Jedna je životinjska lubanja, a drugi prikaz kućnog duha zaštitnika. Lubanja je gipsana kopija lubanje koju sam prethodno izmodelirala u modelarskoj masi (Green Stuff). Kućni patron bio je izmodeliran izravno na kuću u DAS glinamolu. Prikaz je uokviren oblikom kuće, nagovještavajući prirodu duha. Ne treba biti vješt u modeliranju da bi se tako nešto izmodeliralo. Bitsi koji ostaju od setova ili bitsi dizajnirani za diorame i baze također su dobro rješenje.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Posljednji korak je dodavanje vegetacije i statičke trave na bazu.
  
  	Izgradnja ove vrste kuće nije komplicirana i ne zahtijeva skupe materijale niti alate. Što se više vremena potroši na to i što više pozornosti bude posvećeno detaljima, to će rezultat biti spektakularniji.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
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  Ana Polanšćak, 6th August 2020
• Frozen Stiff - Step by Step Tutorial

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      string(45) "Diorama: Smrznut u snijegu – korak po korak"
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  	This article follows the build of my award winning diorama called Frozen Stiff that I built for the Iron Painter 2017 competition. I wanted to do something different for this project so I decided to use a bust for a diorama. The miniature I used was The Wanderer by FER Miniatures, a 1:10 bust.
  
  	  
  
  	Making the plinth
  
  	For the base, I needed quite a large plinth and I didn't have any lying about so I decided to make my own. After checking the size of the footprint of the bust, I calculated that I need about 7,5x75 cm base. To make it out of plaster would mean it would be rather on the heavy side so I had to make the plinth hollow. The sides of the mould for the plinth were done from 4mm thick balsa wood. I didn't glue them together and for fixing them in place I used pins. This would enable easier removal of the plinth from the mould. I used HD styrofoam to make the inside of the mould. By using this, I saved about 60% of the final weight of the plinth. Once the plinth was cast and dry, I removed the sides of the mould and used my disc sander to sand the irregular mouldlines and excess material.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Preparation work and making the base
  
  	In order to place the bust at the correct angle, I needed to sand the bottom side of the bust. Again, I turned to my disc sander. It took several attempts to get it to right position and once I was satisfied with the result, I used 4mm thick balsa wood to make the back and the sides of the diorama. Inside, I would make the cliffs.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	IDEAS
  
  	During my Snowpocalypse entry (Frozen Stiff, that I began to call it at this point), I used clay schist to make the cliffs. For that build, I needed only a handful. Fortunately for me, the Medvednica hill next to Zagreb where I live, is full of this metamorphic rock so I decided to take a hike with a mate and go gather a bagful of broken stones. During these hikes, I like to take photos of nature as it is really a good source of inspiration. Once back, I had to wash the stones in soapy water to remove the dirt because the paint wouldn't stick to the stones properly otherwise. I used warm water and several repeats of the process until I got almost clear soapy water. I left it to dry for a couple of days near a heater. When the slate was dry, I stored them in two boxes. One was for really large pieces and the other was for smaller ones and debris. This would speed up the proces of choosing the stones while making the river bank and cliffs.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	After the trip to the Medvednica mountain, I carefully cut, sawed and assembled all the schist pieces I'd need. Before gluing the stones, I painted the back and the sides of the base black. Using PVA and super glue, I glued them in place. Once the cliff was formed, I used dried up roots to make trees and their roots. I pinned them in place using my pin vice and glued them with super glue. Then I placed the mini and glued it in its place. With the bust in place, I could now add volume to the base that would eventually be snow. To do that, I used DAS airdrying clay.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Painting and flocking of the base
  
  	When the clay was dry, I covered the trees with masking tape and spreyed the entire diorama with several layers of paint. First layer was white, followed by off white and finished with drab colour. Each successive layer of sprey was applied with less and less intensity and volume. When the spreying was done, I removed the masking tape and proceeded to paint the rocks first. I used several layers of washes. I used mostly Citadel ones, Nuln Oil, Coelia Greenshade and Athonian Camoshade. When I was satisfied with the basic tones, I used several Scalecolor greys to make the highlights. Afterwards, I applied several shades of pigments (rust and ochre) in several places just to make the cliff a bit more interesting. I fixed the pigment in place using AK Interactive Pigment Fixer. After the painting, I decided to add some sparse vegetation. I used several tufts from a company called Gamer's Grass that specialises in producing great looking tufts. They recently released a new kind of tuft called spikey tufts which I thought perfect for this project. I then painted all the surfaces that were going to be under snow white and once the paint was dry, I applied several layers of NOCH Snowflakes fixed with PVA glue. I also had one other product that I was dying to try out. NOCH Icicles. It comes in a tube which you press and a „worm“ comes out. It dries clear and almost plastic like. It is so hard that it will fix the branches in place reducing chance of them breaking. Really effective and easy to use.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Painting the miniature
  
  	With the base mostly done, it was now time to paint the bust. Again, I used mostly Citadel Washes, diluted even more with Lahmian Medium to get glazes. Washes I used were: Agrax Earthshade, Seraphim Sepia, Reikkland Fleshshade and Nuln Oil. The skin was painted using heavily diluted Nihilakh Oxide and Druchii Violet. Highlights were done using a mixture of Scalecolor skin and light blue colours.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Finished diorama
  
  	When I was satisfied with the paintjob, I added some snow (NOCH Snowflakes) and ice (NOCH Icicles) on the miniature, especially around the nose, mouth and on the beard.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  "
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  	Ovaj članak prati izradu moje nagrađivane diorame Frozen Stiff koja je nastala za natjecanje Iron Painter 2017. Htio sam napraviti nešto drugačije pa sam se odlučio da od biste napravim dioramu. Minijatura koju sam koristio bila je The Wanderer od FER Miniatures, bista u skali 1:10.
  
  	  
  
  	IZRADA POSTOLJA
  
  	Za bazu mi je trebalo dosta veliko postolje i budući da takvo nisam imao odlučio sam napraviti svoje. Nakon provjere veličine biste, izračunao sam da mi treba baza oko 7,5x75 cm. Gipsana baza te veličine bila bi jako teška pa sam ju morao učiniti šupljom. Bočne strane kalupa za postolje izrađene su od balze debljine 4 mm. Nisam ih lijepio zajedno, za fiksiranje sam koristio pribadače. To mi je omogućilo lakše uklanjanje postolja iz kalupa. Za unutrašnjost kalupa sam koristio stirodur. Koristeći ovo, dobio sam oko 60% razlike u konačnoj težini postolja. Nakon što je podloga bila suha, uklonio sam stranice kalupa i pomoću brusne brusilice izbrusio višak materijala.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	PRIPREMNI RADOVI I IZRADA BAZE
  
  	Da bih bistu mogao postaviti pod odgovarajućim kutom, morao sam joj izbrusiti donju stranu pomoću kružne brusilice. Bilo je potrebno nekoliko pokušaja da se to postavi u pravi položaj, a nakon što sam bio zadovoljan rezultatom, koristio balzu debljine 4 mm za izradu stražnjih i bočnih strana diorame.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	IDEJE
  
  	Za izradu litica, koristio sam zeleni škriljevac. Za ovu dioramu trebao sam samo nekoliko šačica. Srećom po mene, Medvednica pored Zagreba u kojem živim, puno je ove metamorfne stijene pa sam odlučio prošetati s prijateljem i otići skupiti vreću slomljenog kamenja. Tijekom ovih planinarenja volim fotografirati prirodu jer je zaista dobar izvor inspiracije. Kad sam se vratio, morao sam oprati kamenje u sapunskoj vodi da uklonim prljavštinu jer se boja inače ne bi dobro zalijepila za kamenje. Koristio sam toplu vodu i nekoliko ponavljanja postupka dok nisam dobio skoro čistu vodu. Ostavio sam da se osuši nekoliko dana u blizini grijača. Kad su se škriljevci osušili, spremio sam ih u dvije kutije. Jedan je za stvarno velike komade, a drugi za manje i krhotine. To će ubrzati postupak izbora kamenja pri izradi obale i litica.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon izleta na Medvednicu, pažljivo sam izrezao, ispilio i sastavio sve komade škriljeva. Prije lijepljenja kamenčića obojio sam stražnju i bočnu stranu baze crnom bojom. Pomoću PVA i super ljepila sam ih zalijepio na željeno mjesto. Jednom kad se formirala litica, koristio sam osušeno korijenje za izradu stabala i njihovih korijena. Pričvrstio sam ih na mjesto pomoću pinova i zalijepio ih super ljepilom. Zatim sam stavio minijaturu i zalijepio ju na predviđeno mjesto na bazi. Kad je bista postavljena, mogao sam dodati volumen na bazu koja će na kraju biti snijeg. Za to sam koristio DAS glinamol.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	BOJANJE I VEGETACIJA
  
  	Kad se glinamol osušio, stabla sam prekrio krep trakom i cijelu dioramu posprejao s nekoliko slojeva boje. Prvi sloj je bio bijel, a zatim tamno bijeli i završen je bež bojom. Svaki sljedeći sloj spreja nanosio se s manje i manje intenziteta i volumena. Kad je obavljeno sprejanje, uklonio sam krep traku i nastavio sam bojati stijene. Koristio sam nekoliko slojeva wash-eva. Koristio sam uglavnom Citadel wash-eve: Nuln Oil, Coelia Greenshade i Athonian Camoshade. Kad sam bio zadovoljan osnovnim tonovima, koristio sam nekoliko nijansi Scalecolor sivih da bih istaknuo povišene/izdignute dijelove. Poslije sam na nekoliko mjesta nanio nekoliko nijansi pigmenata (hrđa i oker) samo da liticu učinim malo zanimljivijom. Učvrstio sam pigment pomoću AK Interactive Pigment Fixer-a. Nakon bojanja, odlučio sam dodati malo oskudne vegetacije. Koristio sam nekoliko busenja tvrtke Gamer's Grass koja je specijalizirana za proizvodnju tuftova i vegetacije. Nedavno su izdali novu vrstu tuftova nazvanog spikey tuft koji sam smatrao savršenim za ovaj projekt. Zatim sam obojio sve površine koje će biti pod snijegom u bijelu boju, a nakon što se osušila, nanio sam nekoliko slojeva NOCH pahuljica snijega fiksiranih PVA ljepilom. Imao sam još jedan proizvod koji sam želio isprobati. NOCH sige. Dolazi u epruveti koju pritisnete i izlazi „crv“. Suši se bistro i gotovo je plastično u tvrdoći kada se posuši. Toliko je čvrst da je fiksirao grane što smanjuje mogućnost njihova pucanja. Stvarno učinkovit i jednostavan za upotrebu.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	BOJANJE BISTE
  
  	S obzirom da je baza uglavnom bila gotova, sad je došlo vrijeme za bojanje biste. Opet sam koristio uglavnom Citadel Washeve, još više razrijeđene Lahmian Mediumom za razvodnjavanje. Wash-evi koje sam koristio su: Agrax Earthshade, Seraphim Sepia, Reikkland Fleshshade i Nuln Oil. Koža je obojena pomoću jako razrijeđenog Nihilakh Oxide i Druchii Violet. Highlight-i su odrađeni mješavinom Scalecolor bojama nijanse kože i svijetloplave.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	GOTOVA DIORAMA
  
  	Kad sam bio zadovoljan bojanjem dodao sam još malo snijega (NOCH pahuljice) i leda (NOCH sige) na bistu, posebno oko nosa, usta i na bradi.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
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  Marko Paunović, 4th August 2020

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