UMS "Agram" : Steampunk Zrinjevac themed terrain < Articles < Hobby

Steampunk Zrinjevac themed terrain

Marko Paunović, 22nd August 2020

A while back, I got the whole range of Plastcraft: Designed for Malifaux terrain for my demo games and I decided to make a terrain that would compliment these terrain and help fill out my demo table.

Looking at the photos of Plastcraft terrain and table setup, an idea popped into my mind – make a 19th century park. Fortunately for me, living in Zagreb, Croatia, it's centre is full of 19th century architecture, parks included. The park in the pic with the gazebo is one of more famous parks in Zagreb, only a minute's walk from the town's main square and only a ten minute walk from my appartment. During the January of 2015 I was busy building my park and shooting pics during every step of the build. With the terrain finished, it was time to write the actual tutorial. After a bit of a think, I decided to thematicly group certain actions I did to make the whole process more understandable and easier to follow.

Obviously the first step was to draw the terrain with all the features to be installed and to make a list of materials and bits needed. I tried to use materials and bits I had handy as I didn't have much time to finish the build so waiting for various shipments to arrive was out of the question. After singling out the materials and bits I'd use, it was time to start the actual build.

THE BASE

First, I drew the outlines of my park on the base (MDF board, 4 mm thick), then I put all the bits on it to see how it all fits. At this time, it's good to have at least one miniature handy to check how it can be moved through the terrain features. No point in making a nice terrain if your minis can't enter it. Once I was satisfied with the result, I used my jigsaw (although a normal saw would suffice) to cut the base into two A4 sized terrains. If you don't have MDF handy, almost all shops selling photo equipment hold those simple glass frames with MDF background held by a couple of clips. It's cheap and it's handy. Once the base was cut, I glued my plastic fence in place. I bought the fence on Ebay. Just search „HO scale fence“. One meter of the fence is about 10 USD with worldwide shipping and there are several designs.

THE PLASTER

As you can see on the plans, I wanted to make an octogonal gazebo so I needed an octogonal base. The easiest way to make your own walls, bases etc is to cast them in plaster. For that you'll need a mould. I made mine on a seethrough plastic foil as base. I simply put it on the terrain base where I hade previously drawn the outline of the gazebo. I cut several basla wood planks to serve as walls of my mould and glued them using superglue. I mixed the plaster and poured it into my mould. Half an hour later, I had my base. Removing the cast from the mould is easy as it is bendy due to the plastic foil base. A further half an hour later I had the two casts I'd use to make my gazebo. Now I needed to make the walls of the gazebo. I had already made moulds for a brick wall so I simply poured in some plaster and cut the brick walls to size. (However, here I'll also explain how I made my brick walls moulds: A long while ago, I found some railroad model brick walls. Using latex milk, I made the mould by just covering the railroad model brick wall and leaving to cure for about 24 hours.) After sanding the sides of the walls, I glued them to form the octogonal gazebo. One side I intentionally left open. Here I had to make the stairs. Using the same brick wall casts I made the shape of the stairs by carefully cutting the desired shape. The „body“ of the stairs I cut out of HD Styrofoam.

METAL

With the shape of the stairs complete, I needed to make the metal sheets that would form the stairs while making my terrain look more steampunky. I used simple card (from a box of instant coffee), cutting it into strips. Rivets I made with PVA glue carefully applying it making sure it forms little blobs that would, once painted, look like rivets.

Then it was time to do the metal structure of the gazebo. For this, I used Evergreeen plasticard profiles (I and H beams) and for the fence I used the railings from the HO fence sets I wrote about earlier. The vertical beams I made from the I beams while the horizontal roof holders were done with H beams.

ROOF

To make the octogonal roof, I first had to make the shape of a single triangle. On the base, where I hade drawn the shape of the gazebo, I gllued one wooden slat 25 mm long vertically. 25 mm would be the height of the roof. Using the glued slat and the drawing of the gazebe, I made my triangle shape gluing three 2x2 mm wooden slats. This would just be my template which I then copied onto the card (from the same box of instant coffee I used earlier) eight times. I cut my triangles with scissors and using some tape I glued them to form the octogonal pyramid that would be my roof. I dryfitted it to the gazebo and it fit well. Using strips of card, I covered the gapse between the triangles and in the end I added rivets and welds using the PVA method I described earlier.

TEXTURE

With the gazebo done, it was time to add some texture to the base. I cut the small hills from HD Styrofoam and glued them with PVA. If you look at the original design on one piece of the terrain there was supposed to have been a fountain. After finding this piece of pillar I decided it would suit the purpose better. Especially since it had some runes written that might have been done by the Neverborn. Also, with it's smaller base size, it would save me space and give more playing room while the terrain is in use. I then made the curbs of the terrain with some 2x2 mm wooden slats glued with PVA glue. Once that was done, it was time to add the texture. I normally use three to four different sizes grain to myke my texture. This time was no different as I used GF9 rough, medium and fine grit for the grassy parts. For the paths, I used the smallest grain I had – the sand for chinchillas (that I normally use to make facades of buildings). When doing this, I applied watered down PVA and sprinkled the grit starting with the roughest and finishing with the finest. Always do it this way, otherwise only the finest grain will be glued.

PAINTING THE TEXTURE

After the PVA set, I started painting. First I udercoated everything black. Then I used a brown colour to (wet)paint all the paths and only drybrushed the grassy parts. Then I used ochre paint to drybrush over all the areas. The next drybrush layer was a mixture of ochre and white. I then added a layer of off white drybrush over the grassy bits and finished with pure white over all areas.

PAINTING BRICKS

I painted the curbs grey and the brick walls orange. Same thing I did on the gazebo. Then I added some redbrownish wash over the brick areas and drybrushed with layers of orange mixed progressively with more white.

PAINTING BENCHES

I found the benches on Ebay, also (search: „HO scale bench“). Ten of them were around 5 USD with shipping. The wooden parts were drybrushed brown and off white, while the metal was only drybrushed with silver mixed with black.

ELECTRONICS

One of my favourite hobby shops in Zagreb has these cool lampposts that can be fitted with LEDs. They are from the Decorabilia range of Stamperia (www.stamperia.com) and cost about 5USD per pack of two. To make this part you'll need:
• a single CR 2302 battery
• a single CR 2302 battery housing
• about 5m of wire
• 4 amber LEDs

The CR 2302 battery gives 3V of power. Through each LED runs approximately 20mA of electricity and these high powered LEDs use 2,5 – 3 V of power (normal LEDs use up to 2V). So when these 4 LEDs are connected in parallel (each of them is connected to the battery itself), they need 2,5 – 3 V of power and about 80mA of electricity. The CR 2302 battery should last at least two games with this setup.

As the wires would go on the bottom of the base, I had to make the grooves. I made them using my drill (hence the wobbliness). I soldered the LEDs to the wires (remember to always use the same colour on longer leg of the LED and another colour on the shorter). It'll make things easier when connecting to the battery. I fed the wires through the body of the lampposts and glued them to the base carefully laying each wire in it's own groove. I then attached the clamps to the battery housing and connected all the wires. Once I placed the battery, all the LEDs lit up. Then I used some wooden planks to safely secure the battery housing to the base.

PAINTING METAL

After undercoating the roof and the metal parts of the gazebo (stairs, railigns and roof structure, I drybrushed the silver/black mixture. Then I applied the brass and gold layers to the brass parts (base and top of the lamppost, railings and the roof body of the gazebo). Once the base layers were done, I applied two special effects made by ModelMates: Rust (to silvery bits) and Verdigris (to the brass bits). Just apply these generously and after about ten minutes drying time, I used a slightly damp earcleaning tips to remove excess effects and add direction to the effects (rust usually runs down a slope). In the end using green washes and glazes I added the moss effect to the brick walls of the gazebo.

VEGETATION

Once the paint dried it was time for flocking. I first pinned the trees to the base and added static grass gluing it with PVA glue. I also used some fir trees that were also pinned and I added some poison ivy to the gazebo.

All that was left was to take pics and enjoy a game on my new terrain!

Latest articles

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 5

          array(2) {
  ["Article"]=>
  array(10) {
    ["id"]=>
    string(3) "492"
    ["member_id"]=>
    string(2) "35"
    ["title_eng"]=>
    string(27) "SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 5"
    ["title_hrv"]=>
    string(29) "Diorama SFRJ 1986 v2– dio 5"
    ["mask_eng"]=>
    string(27) "sfrj_1986_v2_diorama_part_5"
    ["mask_hrv"]=>
    string(26) "diorama_sfrj_1986_v2_dio_5"
    ["content_eng"]=>
    string(3653) "
	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	So far I have finished making the base, painting the base, painting the interior of the vehicle and painting the figures. Now it's time to add the vegetation

	  

	The pines/trees were already fixed to the base before painting, so the first vegetation I added was tall shrubs that filled the volume of the base.

	  

	Then I added lower vegetation like tall grass and lower bushes.

	  

	Finally, I added some short grass, making sure when I was making the parking lot and path that there was no vegetation in the places where the wheels pass.

	  

	The paint on the base has just dried up, so next time I'll add the vegetation.

	  

	When the diorama is turned to the back, the volume of the forest is visible.

	  

	Before placing the vehicles and miniatures on the base, the diorama looks like this.

	  
"
    ["content_hrv"]=>
    string(3186) "
	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Do sada sam završio s izradom baze, bojanjem baze, bojanjem interijera vozila i bojanjem figura. Sada je došlo vrijeme za dodavanje vegetacije

	  

	Borovi/drveće je već bilo fiksirano na bazu prije bojanja pa je prva sljedeća vegetacija bila visoko žbunje kojim sam popunio volumen baze.

	  

	Potom sam dodao niže raslinje poput visoke trave i nižeg grmlja.

	  

	Na kraju sam dodao i nisku travu pri čemu sam pazio kad sam radio ugibalište i puteljak da vegetacije ne bude na mjestima gdje prolaze kotači.

	  

	Kada se dioramu okrene, vidi se volumen vegetacije u šumi. 

	

	Prije postavljanja vozila i minijatura, diorama izgleda ovako:

	
"
    ["created"]=>
    string(19) "2026-01-19 10:46:08"
    ["modified"]=>
    string(19) "2026-01-19 11:00:21"
  }
  ["Member"]=>
  array(10) {
    ["id"]=>
    string(2) "35"
    ["group_id"]=>
    string(1) "1"
    ["first_name"]=>
    string(5) "Marko"
    ["last_name"]=>
    string(9) "Paunović"
    ["first_name_mask"]=>
    string(5) "marko"
    ["last_name_mask"]=>
    string(8) "paunovic"
    ["username"]=>
    string(5) "marko"
    ["password"]=>
    string(40) "3bd37b326d19d1880d3b93a4b32e8fb3a90fa122"
    ["born"]=>
    string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00"
    ["created"]=>
    string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03"
  }
}

Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 4

          array(2) {
  ["Article"]=>
  array(10) {
    ["id"]=>
    string(3) "491"
    ["member_id"]=>
    string(2) "35"
    ["title_eng"]=>
    string(27) "SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 4"
    ["title_hrv"]=>
    string(29) "Diorama SFRJ 1986 v2– dio 4"
    ["mask_eng"]=>
    string(27) "sfrj_1986_v2_diorama_part_4"
    ["mask_hrv"]=>
    string(26) "diorama_sfrj_1986_v2_dio_4"
    ["content_eng"]=>
    string(2405) "
	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	After the base and the vehicles, I started painting the miniatures. Two policemen and a truck driver. The first step was the base color – black and then white..

	  

	After that, I started with the basic colors, concentrating a little more on the truck driver..

	  

	Considering the year and location of the action, I decided that his jacket should have the logo from the 1984 Sarajevo Winter Olympics..

	  

	Then I threw myself at the policemen..

	  

	The paint on the base has just dried up, so next time I'll add the vegetation.
"
    ["content_hrv"]=>
    string(2360) "
	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Nakon baze i vozila, bacio sam se na bojanje minijatura. Dva milicajca i vozač kamiona. Prvi korak je bila temeljna boja – crna pa bijela.

	  

	Nakon toga, krenuo sam s osnovnim bojama, malo više se koncentrirajući na vozača kamiona.

	  

	S obzirom na godinu i mjesto radnje, odlučio sam se da mu jakna ima logo od ZOI Sarajevo 1984.

	  

	Zatim sam se bacio na milicajce.

	  

	Taman se tako nekako osušila i boja na bazi pa ću sljedeći puta obraditi i dodavanje vegetacije.
"
    ["created"]=>
    string(19) "2026-01-19 10:35:45"
    ["modified"]=>
    string(19) "2026-01-19 10:35:45"
  }
  ["Member"]=>
  array(10) {
    ["id"]=>
    string(2) "35"
    ["group_id"]=>
    string(1) "1"
    ["first_name"]=>
    string(5) "Marko"
    ["last_name"]=>
    string(9) "Paunović"
    ["first_name_mask"]=>
    string(5) "marko"
    ["last_name_mask"]=>
    string(8) "paunovic"
    ["username"]=>
    string(5) "marko"
    ["password"]=>
    string(40) "3bd37b326d19d1880d3b93a4b32e8fb3a90fa122"
    ["born"]=>
    string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00"
    ["created"]=>
    string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03"
  }
}

Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 3

          array(2) {
  ["Article"]=>
  array(10) {
    ["id"]=>
    string(3) "490"
    ["member_id"]=>
    string(2) "35"
    ["title_eng"]=>
    string(27) "SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 3"
    ["title_hrv"]=>
    string(29) "Diorama SFRJ 1986 v2– dio 3"
    ["mask_eng"]=>
    string(27) "sfrj_1986_v2_diorama_part_3"
    ["mask_hrv"]=>
    string(26) "diorama_sfrj_1986_v2_dio_3"
    ["content_eng"]=>
    string(3113) "
	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	As I announced last time, it's time to get down to the vehicles. The first thing I did was disassemble the models and take out the interiors of all three vehicles.

	  

	As you can see in the picture, the interior of the vehicle is poorly or not at all painted, so a lot of attention and time was spent there. I painted the upholstery in shades of gray, or brown on the Tristač. I brought out the details on the dashboard and around the gearbox.

	  

	There was something missing from the start on the Fićo, but I couldn't figure out what it was until Kruno pointed out to me that the flashing lights were missing. I fixed that with a small 3mm clear LED that I painted in Tamiya Clear Blue with a silver edge.

	  

	This completes the painting of the vehicles’ interior.

	  

	The finishing touches are the decorations in the truck's cabin.

	  

	Next time we will continue with painting the figures.
"
    ["content_hrv"]=>
    string(3080) "
	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Kao što sam najavio prošli put, vrijeme je da se bacim na vozila. Prvo što sam napravio jest da sam rastavio modele i izvadio unutrašnjost sva tri vozila

	  

	Kako je vidljivo na slici, unutrašnjost vozila je slabo ili nikako obojana stoga je tu otišlo mnogo pažnje i vremena. Tapecirunge sam obojao u sive nijanse, odnosno u smeđe na tristaču. Izvukao sam detalje na komandnim pločama te oko mjenjača.

	  

	Na fićeku mi je otpočetka nešto falilo, ali nisam mogao skužiti što dok mi Kruno nije skrenuo pažnju da fali rotirka. Nju sam sredio pomoću jedne male 3mm prozirne LED koju sam obojao u Tamiya Clear Blue sa srebrnim rubom.

	  

	Time je završeno bojanje unutrašnjosti vozila.

	  

	Završni detalji su ukrasi u kabini kamiona.

	  

	Sljedeći put nastavljamo sa bojanjem figura.

	 
"
    ["created"]=>
    string(19) "2026-01-19 10:28:32"
    ["modified"]=>
    string(19) "2026-01-19 10:28:32"
  }
  ["Member"]=>
  array(10) {
    ["id"]=>
    string(2) "35"
    ["group_id"]=>
    string(1) "1"
    ["first_name"]=>
    string(5) "Marko"
    ["last_name"]=>
    string(9) "Paunović"
    ["first_name_mask"]=>
    string(5) "marko"
    ["last_name_mask"]=>
    string(8) "paunovic"
    ["username"]=>
    string(5) "marko"
    ["password"]=>
    string(40) "3bd37b326d19d1880d3b93a4b32e8fb3a90fa122"
    ["born"]=>
    string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00"
    ["created"]=>
    string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03"
  }
}

Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 2

          array(2) {
  ["Article"]=>
  array(10) {
    ["id"]=>
    string(3) "489"
    ["member_id"]=>
    string(2) "35"
    ["title_eng"]=>
    string(27) "SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 2"
    ["title_hrv"]=>
    string(29) "Diorama SFRJ 1986 v2– dio 2"
    ["mask_eng"]=>
    string(27) "sfrj_1986_v2_diorama_part_2"
    ["mask_hrv"]=>
    string(26) "diorama_sfrj_1986_v2_dio_2"
    ["content_eng"]=>
    string(3226) "
	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	Last time I explained how I created the terrain, and this time I'll be painting the terrain. The terrain itself consists of several parts: an asphalt road, a turnoff and path, and the terrain in the forest.

	  

	Since I wanted all the surfaces to have similar tones, I decided to paint without a base color, applying the main color immediately. The paint I applied was very thin so it stayed wet for a long time, which allowed me to mix the base colors and get a uniform tone.

	  

	After applying the basic tones, I started shading. I also used the same principle, using quite diluted tones to create unevenness in certain parts of the surface.

	  

	Then I added a layer that I could most simply call wash. A very diluted darker shade of color.

	  

	I applied the final shades using another technique, the simplest one – dry brush.

	  

	While these paints were drying, I was simultaneously disassembling and painting the interior of the car and truck, as well as the figures, which will be the subject of future articles.
"
    ["content_hrv"]=>
    string(3277) "
	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Prošli put sam objasnio kako sam izradio teren, a ovaj put ću se baviti bojanjem terena. Sami teren se sastoji od nekoliko dijelova: asfaltna cesta, ugibalište i puteljak te teren u šumi.

	  

	S obzirom da sam htio da sve površine imaju slične tonove, odlučio sam se bojati bez temeljne boje, nanoseći odmah glavni ton. Boju koju sam nanosio bila je jako razvodnjena tako da je dugo bila mokra i to mi je omogućavalo miješanje osnovnih tonova i dobivanje ujednačene tonove.

	  

	Nakon nanošenja osnovnih tonova, krenuo sam sa nijansiranjem. Također sam radio istim principom, dosta razvodnjene tonove kako bih dobio neujednačenost pojedinih dijelova površine.

	  

	Potom sam dodao sloj koji bih najjednostavnije mogao nazvati wash. Jako razvodnjenu tamniju nijansu boje.

	  

	Završne nijanse sam nanio drugom tehnikom, najjednostavnijom – dry brush.

	  

	Dok su se ove boje sušile, paralelno sam rastavio i bojao unutrašnjost automobila i kamiona te figura što će biti tema sljedećih članaka.
"
    ["created"]=>
    string(19) "2026-01-19 09:32:11"
    ["modified"]=>
    string(19) "2026-01-19 09:32:11"
  }
  ["Member"]=>
  array(10) {
    ["id"]=>
    string(2) "35"
    ["group_id"]=>
    string(1) "1"
    ["first_name"]=>
    string(5) "Marko"
    ["last_name"]=>
    string(9) "Paunović"
    ["first_name_mask"]=>
    string(5) "marko"
    ["last_name_mask"]=>
    string(8) "paunovic"
    ["username"]=>
    string(5) "marko"
    ["password"]=>
    string(40) "3bd37b326d19d1880d3b93a4b32e8fb3a90fa122"
    ["born"]=>
    string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00"
    ["created"]=>
    string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03"
  }
}

Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 1

          array(2) {
  ["Article"]=>
  array(10) {
    ["id"]=>
    string(3) "488"
    ["member_id"]=>
    string(2) "35"
    ["title_eng"]=>
    string(27) "SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 1"
    ["title_hrv"]=>
    string(29) "Diorama SFRJ 1986 v2– dio 1"
    ["mask_eng"]=>
    string(27) "sfrj_1986_v2_diorama_part_1"
    ["mask_hrv"]=>
    string(26) "diorama_sfrj_1986_v2_dio_1"
    ["content_eng"]=>
    string(3178) "
	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	As always, everything starts with an idea. This time, the idea came from a model of an Agrokomerc truck that Bojan brought me from Serbia (where it was published as part of a magazine). The design itself changed a bit over time (the first few months of planning). Initially, it was supposed to be just a truck at a roadside stop. Then the idea came to include the Police. And then I got two police vehicles. Fić and Tristač. Basically, this is the first drawing that started it all.

	  

	The base for the diorama came from Moson, from Buco. A fantastic combination of MDF and Styrodur that allows you to remove the diorama itself, but also to lower the terrain below the base level. I removed the Styrodur base, modeled it a little to get different terrain height levels. I modeled the road from a cork board, and assembled the rest of the terrain from DAS clay and wooden bark.

	  

	Once everything was dry I added texture. Two or three sizes of sand and that was it.

	  

	And when that layer was dry, I used a drill to fix the trees to the back of the base. Since all the trees had tall trunks, I decided to leave them as is and not move them during the painting process.

	  

	That's it for this week. We already have a nice outline of the diorama, and next time we'll continue with painting the base.
"
    ["content_hrv"]=>
    string(3151) "
	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Kao i uvijek, sve počinje idejom. Ovoga puta, ideja se izrodila iz makete Agrokomercovog kamiona kojeg mi je Bojan dofurao iz Srbije (gdje je izašao u sklopu nekog časopisa). Sami dizajn se malo mijenjao tijekom vremena (prvih par mjeseci planiranja). Otpočetka, trebao je to biti samo kamion na nekom ugibalištu pored ceste. Onda se rodila ideja da stavim i Miliciju. A onda sam nabavio i dva milicijska vozila. Fiću i Tristača. Uglavnom, ovo je prvi crtež od kojeg je sve krenulo.

	  

	Baza za dioramu je došla s Mosona, od Buce. Fantastičan spoj MDFa i stirodura koji omogućava vađenje same diorame, ali i upuštanje terena ispod razine baze. Izvadio sam stirodurnu podlogu, malo je izmodelirao da dobijem razne razine visine terena. Cestu sam izmodelirao iz ploče pluta, a ostatak terena složio od DAS glinamola i drvenih kora.

	  

	Kada se sve osušilo dodao sam teksturu. Dvije ili tri veličine pijeska i to je to.

	  

	A kada se i taj sloj osušio, bušilicom sam fiksirao drveće na stražnji dio baze. S obzirom da su sva stable imala visoka debla, odlučio sam ih ostaviti tako i ne micati ih za process bojanja.

	  

	To je to za ovaj tjedan. Imamo već lijepe obrise diorame, a sljedeći puta nastavljamo sa bojanjem baze.
"
    ["created"]=>
    string(19) "2026-01-19 09:18:40"
    ["modified"]=>
    string(19) "2026-01-19 09:18:40"
  }
  ["Member"]=>
  array(10) {
    ["id"]=>
    string(2) "35"
    ["group_id"]=>
    string(1) "1"
    ["first_name"]=>
    string(5) "Marko"
    ["last_name"]=>
    string(9) "Paunović"
    ["first_name_mask"]=>
    string(5) "marko"
    ["last_name_mask"]=>
    string(8) "paunovic"
    ["username"]=>
    string(5) "marko"
    ["password"]=>
    string(40) "3bd37b326d19d1880d3b93a4b32e8fb3a90fa122"
    ["born"]=>
    string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00"
    ["created"]=>
    string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03"
  }
}

Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

Latest battle-reports

Kill Team - Blooded vs. Vespid Stingwings 28th February 2025, GW - Warhammer 40.000, and Antoni Pastuović (Imperial Guard)

22nd April 2022, GW - Warhammer 40.000, Borna Pleše (Space Marines) and Kristijan Kliska (Tau Empire)

17th November 2021, GW - Warhammer 40.000, and Nino Marasović (Space Marines)

Association of miniature collectors, modellers and tabletop wargamers "Agram"

Steampunk Zrinjevac themed terrain

Latest articles

Latest battle-reports