UMS "Agram" : Old School Ork < Articles < Hobby

Old School Ork

Goran Krunić, 17th October 2020

In today's article, I am going to show you how to paint an Orc Champion for Warhammer Fantasy Battles/Age of Sigmar.

NOTE: Do not glue the shield to the miniature until both the miniature and the shield are painted.

Preparation:

Take a sharp modelling knife and modelling or similar files in order to remove the excess material resulting from the casting process of the miniature (flash), and mould lines which are the result of the casting material accumulating on the join between the mould halves during the casting process.

Take a black, the more matte, the better spray (I have user Cosmos Matte Black), and spray the miniature by utilising light, even motions until the entire surface of the miniature is covered, taking care not to obscure the details of the miniature among the layers of applied paint, alternatively, the primer paint can also be brushed on, I would use Scale75 Black for that purpose.

Dilute a middle dark shade of green (I have user Irati Green by Scale75) using Citadel's Lahmian Medium, and apply it over 2 to 3 coats (allow the paint to dry in between layers) until you attain even coverage of the skin surfaces.

Using a middle dark metallic silver paint (Ironbreaker by Citadel, Steel from Vallejo Model Air, Heavy Metal from Scale75 etc.), paint the metallic surfaces on the miniature (this includes the armour, the sword blade, the helmet, the armor on the shoulders, the ring in the nose, the blade of the knife on the back and the shoes)*.

Using a yellowish bronze paint (I have user Dwarven Gold from Scale75), paint the tips of the helmet horns, the joins of the helmet horns with the helmet itself, the edge of the helmet above the face of the miniature, and the hilt and crossguard of the sword and knife on the back**.

Using a middle dark shade of brown paint (Beasty Brown from Vallejo Game Color, Brown Leather from Scale75 etc.), paint the horns of the helmet, and the horns of the belt buckle.

Using a pale brown paint (I have used Walnut from Scale75), paint the teeth of the miniature.

Using in sequence reddish and orange brown paints in 3 to 5 shades, gradually lighten the teeth of the miniature (I have used Blackert Brown, Peanut Butter, Cokum Copper, Hykey Yellow from Scale75 Fantasy & Games, and finally Off White from Vallejo Game Color).

The same procedure as in the previous step can also be used for the helmet horns, although a shade such as Bonewhite from Vallejo Game Color or similar was used to finish them off.

Using a darker and more muted shade of red (I have used Deep Red from Scale75), paint the lower lip of the miniature and the visible part of the inside of the mouth. Then, gradually, going from Blood Red to Aldeberan Red by Scale75 highlight the details of the lip using a paintbrush, simulating the look of a dried lip.

Using the Biel-Tan Green Shade (wash) from Citadel, apply a single, thicker coat on the skin areas of the miniature, taking care for it not to gather in the recesses, because it can leave stains that look bad.

Using Nuln Oil Shade (wash) from Citadel, apply a single, thicker coat on the metallic parts of the miniature (see above for the list *), also taking care for it not to gather in the recesses, or in one single point.

Using Agrax Earthshade Shade (wash) from Citadel, apply a single, thicker coat on the bronze parts of the miniature (see above for the list **), also taking care, as in the previous two steps for it not to gather either in the recesses, or in a single point.

Using a lighter bronze paint (I have used Viking Gold from Scale75), highlight the more pronounced parts of the bronze parts of the miniature (see above for the list **), taking care for a smaller portion of the previously painted darker layers to remain visible.

Using a darker brown shade (I have used Charred Brown from Vallejo Game Color), paint the fur parts of the miniature (above the shoes, and the outer part of the sleeve on the miniature's right hand).

Mix a middle grey shade (I have used Wolf Grey from Vallejo Game Color) to the paint from the previous step, and highlight from the middle to the top of the hairs of the fur parts.

Mix in a lighter grey shade in the mix from the previous step (I have used Ghost Grey from Vallejo Game Color), and highlight the last third and the tips of the hairs of the fur parts.

Using a middle shade of brown paint (I have used Brown Leather from Scale75), paint the leather parts of the miniature, these include the laces of the furs above the shoes, the bags on the belt on the back, the belt, the armlet on the right hand, and the shield handle on the left hand***.

Using Agrax Earthshade Shade (wash) from Citadel, apply a single, thicker coat on the leather parts of the miniature (see above for the list ***), taking care for it to not gather in the recesses.

Using reddish and yellowish shades of brown paint (e.g. Red and Orange Leather from Scale75, Scrufulous Brown from Vallejo Game Color etc.), create dot and similar patterns on the leather parts of the miniature, this will give plausibility to the leather, I also advise to Google reference images for corresponding leather parts.

Using a middle dark metallic silver paint, paint the studs on the armlet on the right hand, and the buckle on the armlet on the right hand.

Using a middle dark metallic silver paint (I have used Heavy Metal from Scale75), paint the edge of the shield.

Using a dark red paint (I have used Deep Red from Scale75), paint the inner part of the shield (the frowning Sun).

Using gradually lighter shades of red paint (Blood Red, Aldebaran Red from Scale75 etc.), highlight the bumps on the Sun on the shield.

Using the same procedure as for the teeth of the miniature, paint the teeth of the Sun on the shield.

Conclusion:

I have created a relatively simple base for the miniature, where I have used middle and fine grained sand from Gale Force 9, which I have mixed in a 2 to 1 ratio of fine to middle grained, as well as chincilla sand, which fills in any gaps left by the previous step.

I have also applied some static grass which I have obtained from the company called Gamer's Grass, with arbitrary paint depending on the desired look, season etc.

To conclude, since we are talking about a miniature from the 4th or the 5th edition of Warhammer Fantasy Battles, a base edge painted in a middle light shade of green is inevitable, I have used Goblin Green from Vallejo Game Color.

Latest articles

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 5

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	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	So far I have finished making the base, painting the base, painting the interior of the vehicle and painting the figures. Now it's time to add the vegetation

	  

	The pines/trees were already fixed to the base before painting, so the first vegetation I added was tall shrubs that filled the volume of the base.

	  

	Then I added lower vegetation like tall grass and lower bushes.

	  

	Finally, I added some short grass, making sure when I was making the parking lot and path that there was no vegetation in the places where the wheels pass.

	  

	The paint on the base has just dried up, so next time I'll add the vegetation.

	  

	When the diorama is turned to the back, the volume of the forest is visible.

	  

	Before placing the vehicles and miniatures on the base, the diorama looks like this.

	  
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	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Do sada sam završio s izradom baze, bojanjem baze, bojanjem interijera vozila i bojanjem figura. Sada je došlo vrijeme za dodavanje vegetacije

	  

	Borovi/drveće je već bilo fiksirano na bazu prije bojanja pa je prva sljedeća vegetacija bila visoko žbunje kojim sam popunio volumen baze.

	  

	Potom sam dodao niže raslinje poput visoke trave i nižeg grmlja.

	  

	Na kraju sam dodao i nisku travu pri čemu sam pazio kad sam radio ugibalište i puteljak da vegetacije ne bude na mjestima gdje prolaze kotači.

	  

	Kada se dioramu okrene, vidi se volumen vegetacije u šumi. 

	

	Prije postavljanja vozila i minijatura, diorama izgleda ovako:

	
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Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 4

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	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	After the base and the vehicles, I started painting the miniatures. Two policemen and a truck driver. The first step was the base color – black and then white..

	  

	After that, I started with the basic colors, concentrating a little more on the truck driver..

	  

	Considering the year and location of the action, I decided that his jacket should have the logo from the 1984 Sarajevo Winter Olympics..

	  

	Then I threw myself at the policemen..

	  

	The paint on the base has just dried up, so next time I'll add the vegetation.
"
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	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Nakon baze i vozila, bacio sam se na bojanje minijatura. Dva milicajca i vozač kamiona. Prvi korak je bila temeljna boja – crna pa bijela.

	  

	Nakon toga, krenuo sam s osnovnim bojama, malo više se koncentrirajući na vozača kamiona.

	  

	S obzirom na godinu i mjesto radnje, odlučio sam se da mu jakna ima logo od ZOI Sarajevo 1984.

	  

	Zatim sam se bacio na milicajce.

	  

	Taman se tako nekako osušila i boja na bazi pa ću sljedeći puta obraditi i dodavanje vegetacije.
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Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 3

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	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	As I announced last time, it's time to get down to the vehicles. The first thing I did was disassemble the models and take out the interiors of all three vehicles.

	  

	As you can see in the picture, the interior of the vehicle is poorly or not at all painted, so a lot of attention and time was spent there. I painted the upholstery in shades of gray, or brown on the Tristač. I brought out the details on the dashboard and around the gearbox.

	  

	There was something missing from the start on the Fićo, but I couldn't figure out what it was until Kruno pointed out to me that the flashing lights were missing. I fixed that with a small 3mm clear LED that I painted in Tamiya Clear Blue with a silver edge.

	  

	This completes the painting of the vehicles’ interior.

	  

	The finishing touches are the decorations in the truck's cabin.

	  

	Next time we will continue with painting the figures.
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	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Kao što sam najavio prošli put, vrijeme je da se bacim na vozila. Prvo što sam napravio jest da sam rastavio modele i izvadio unutrašnjost sva tri vozila

	  

	Kako je vidljivo na slici, unutrašnjost vozila je slabo ili nikako obojana stoga je tu otišlo mnogo pažnje i vremena. Tapecirunge sam obojao u sive nijanse, odnosno u smeđe na tristaču. Izvukao sam detalje na komandnim pločama te oko mjenjača.

	  

	Na fićeku mi je otpočetka nešto falilo, ali nisam mogao skužiti što dok mi Kruno nije skrenuo pažnju da fali rotirka. Nju sam sredio pomoću jedne male 3mm prozirne LED koju sam obojao u Tamiya Clear Blue sa srebrnim rubom.

	  

	Time je završeno bojanje unutrašnjosti vozila.

	  

	Završni detalji su ukrasi u kabini kamiona.

	  

	Sljedeći put nastavljamo sa bojanjem figura.

	 
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Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 2

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	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	Last time I explained how I created the terrain, and this time I'll be painting the terrain. The terrain itself consists of several parts: an asphalt road, a turnoff and path, and the terrain in the forest.

	  

	Since I wanted all the surfaces to have similar tones, I decided to paint without a base color, applying the main color immediately. The paint I applied was very thin so it stayed wet for a long time, which allowed me to mix the base colors and get a uniform tone.

	  

	After applying the basic tones, I started shading. I also used the same principle, using quite diluted tones to create unevenness in certain parts of the surface.

	  

	Then I added a layer that I could most simply call wash. A very diluted darker shade of color.

	  

	I applied the final shades using another technique, the simplest one – dry brush.

	  

	While these paints were drying, I was simultaneously disassembling and painting the interior of the car and truck, as well as the figures, which will be the subject of future articles.
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	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Prošli put sam objasnio kako sam izradio teren, a ovaj put ću se baviti bojanjem terena. Sami teren se sastoji od nekoliko dijelova: asfaltna cesta, ugibalište i puteljak te teren u šumi.

	  

	S obzirom da sam htio da sve površine imaju slične tonove, odlučio sam se bojati bez temeljne boje, nanoseći odmah glavni ton. Boju koju sam nanosio bila je jako razvodnjena tako da je dugo bila mokra i to mi je omogućavalo miješanje osnovnih tonova i dobivanje ujednačene tonove.

	  

	Nakon nanošenja osnovnih tonova, krenuo sam sa nijansiranjem. Također sam radio istim principom, dosta razvodnjene tonove kako bih dobio neujednačenost pojedinih dijelova površine.

	  

	Potom sam dodao sloj koji bih najjednostavnije mogao nazvati wash. Jako razvodnjenu tamniju nijansu boje.

	  

	Završne nijanse sam nanio drugom tehnikom, najjednostavnijom – dry brush.

	  

	Dok su se ove boje sušile, paralelno sam rastavio i bojao unutrašnjost automobila i kamiona te figura što će biti tema sljedećih članaka.
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Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

SFRJ 1986 v2 Diorama part 1

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	In this series of articles, we will follow my work on a new diorama, another in the 1986 series. This time I have again decided to use a former country. Another version of the SFRY 1986.

	  

	As always, everything starts with an idea. This time, the idea came from a model of an Agrokomerc truck that Bojan brought me from Serbia (where it was published as part of a magazine). The design itself changed a bit over time (the first few months of planning). Initially, it was supposed to be just a truck at a roadside stop. Then the idea came to include the Police. And then I got two police vehicles. Fić and Tristač. Basically, this is the first drawing that started it all.

	  

	The base for the diorama came from Moson, from Buco. A fantastic combination of MDF and Styrodur that allows you to remove the diorama itself, but also to lower the terrain below the base level. I removed the Styrodur base, modeled it a little to get different terrain height levels. I modeled the road from a cork board, and assembled the rest of the terrain from DAS clay and wooden bark.

	  

	Once everything was dry I added texture. Two or three sizes of sand and that was it.

	  

	And when that layer was dry, I used a drill to fix the trees to the back of the base. Since all the trees had tall trunks, I decided to leave them as is and not move them during the painting process.

	  

	That's it for this week. We already have a nice outline of the diorama, and next time we'll continue with painting the base.
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	U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo moj rad na novoj diorami, još jednoj u nizu serijala 1986. Ovaj put sam se opet odlučio za bivšu državu. Druga verzija SFRJ 1986..

	  

	Kao i uvijek, sve počinje idejom. Ovoga puta, ideja se izrodila iz makete Agrokomercovog kamiona kojeg mi je Bojan dofurao iz Srbije (gdje je izašao u sklopu nekog časopisa). Sami dizajn se malo mijenjao tijekom vremena (prvih par mjeseci planiranja). Otpočetka, trebao je to biti samo kamion na nekom ugibalištu pored ceste. Onda se rodila ideja da stavim i Miliciju. A onda sam nabavio i dva milicijska vozila. Fiću i Tristača. Uglavnom, ovo je prvi crtež od kojeg je sve krenulo.

	  

	Baza za dioramu je došla s Mosona, od Buce. Fantastičan spoj MDFa i stirodura koji omogućava vađenje same diorame, ali i upuštanje terena ispod razine baze. Izvadio sam stirodurnu podlogu, malo je izmodelirao da dobijem razne razine visine terena. Cestu sam izmodelirao iz ploče pluta, a ostatak terena složio od DAS glinamola i drvenih kora.

	  

	Kada se sve osušilo dodao sam teksturu. Dvije ili tri veličine pijeska i to je to.

	  

	A kada se i taj sloj osušio, bušilicom sam fiksirao drveće na stražnji dio baze. S obzirom da su sva stable imala visoka debla, odlučio sam ih ostaviti tako i ne micati ih za process bojanja.

	  

	To je to za ovaj tjedan. Imamo već lijepe obrise diorame, a sljedeći puta nastavljamo sa bojanjem baze.
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Marko Paunović, 19th January 2026

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