Krieger Bust – Painting the Metal and Leather

Marko Paunović, 17th June 2021

In this article, I will briefly describe the process of painting metal surfaces (with weathering) and leather parts on a Krieger bust. The photos were taken during the painting of the sample model for the weekend Miniature Painting Workshop held in May. You can read more about the Workshop here.

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For the needs of the workshop, DiyConnect printed the busts in high quality resin. After minimal preparatory work, they were easy to assemble and ready to paint.

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First, I sprayed the sample with two sprays. Black to start then white so that black remains in the recesses.

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METAL PARTS

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  • - All metal surfaces were painted black.
  • - Then silver with a coat of black wash.
  • - Oils were used to add rust (Ammo Oilbrushers: Rust i Orange with Odourless Thinnerom)
  • - Once the oils have dries, I covered all the metal surfaces randomly with Chipping and Streaking fluids and left them to dry for about 10 mins. After that drying period, I covered everything with blue paint and again left it to dry for about 10 mins.
  • - Last step is to moisten everything and using a sturdy brush and soft que tip to remove blotches of blue paint leaving rusty metal underneath.
  • - To add even more character, I added some final highlights. Pure silver for the metal parts and lighter blue for the painted parts of the metal.

 

LEATHER SURFACES

I decided that the leather parts should be in two shades, lighter and darker, and I set to work accordingly.

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  • - First I painted the darker parts in a medium brown shade.
  • - Then I covered these parts with brown wash and thus made a sufficient difference in shade compared to the lighter parts.
  • - So I could now use the same paints across all leather surfaces. I went over everything with sepia wash.
  • - Several layers of sepia, brown and black washes followed. The first layers can be random (but watch out for merging into “puddles”), while later layers should be drawn with thought about where the light falls.
  • - When I was happy with the tones, weathering ensued. I drew the damage with some ashy paints. I additionally emphasized the deeper damages with a black line - a shadow.
  • - Of course, the whole process I did simultaneously on the backpack in the back.

 

The whole bust, after the painting process, ended like this.

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  • Diary of Ana Polanšćak – or how I got my first People’s Choice Award
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    MONDAY, 6.7.2009.

    Many months ago I started sculpting this huge bipedal bull, and recently I finally got tired of it standing on the shelf unfinished. After a few days of hanging out with greystuff and various beats, I came to this result:

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    And then I started painting him in hopes of getting him to finish it by Black Queen. This is what it currently looks like:

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    There is still a lot of work around him, but I hope to be finished by Saturday. I still have no idea for the base, if anyone has any suggestions.

    WEDNESDAY, 8.7.2009.

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    THURSDAY, 9.7.2009.

    A little more progress. I think I'll be able to finish it. I can't get to work on it today, so I still have tomorrow to fix everything I need and finish the base. If I had remembered earlier it would have been better, but can’t be helped now.

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    SATURDAY, 11.7.2009.

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    I thank everyone who voted for him to receive the People’s Choice Award.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(5387) "

    PONEDJELJAK, 6.7.2009.

    Prije mnogo mjeseci pocela sam sa skulptiranjem ovog ogromnog bipedalnog bika, i nedavno mi je napokon dosadilo sto stoji na polici nedovrsen. Nakon nekoliko dana druzenja s greystuffom i raznim bitsevima dosla sam do ovog rezultata:

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    I onda sam ga pocela bojati u nadi da cu stici dovrsiti ga do Black queena. Ovako trenutno izgleda:

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    Oko njega ima jos dosta posla, nadam se da cu stici do subote. Jos uvijek nemam ideje za bazu, ako netko ima nek predlozi.

    SRIJEDA, 8.7.2009.

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    ČETVRTAK, 9.7.2009.

    Jos malo napretka. Mislim da cu stici dovrsiti ga. Danas vise ne stignem raditi, znaci ostaje mi jos sutra za popraviti sve kaj treba i srediti bazu. Da sam se ranije sjetila bolje bi ispao, ali kaj je tu je.

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    SUBOTA, 11.7.2009.

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    Zahvaljujem svima koji su glasali za njega da dobije People's choice award.

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2021-07-21 08:22:34" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2021-07-21 08:22:34" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "54" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(3) "Ana" ["last_name"]=> string(11) "Polanšćak" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(3) "ana" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(9) "polanscak" ["username"]=> string(3) "Ana" ["password"]=> string(0) "" ["born"]=> string(19) "2013-08-10 23:03:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2013-08-10 23:04:15" } }
    Ana Polanšćak, 21nd July 2021
  • DISPLAY BASE FOR OUTRIDERS
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    I've been working on this every now and then for a little over a month and a half, so I could take a photo here and there to post on the forum, maybe someone will have some nice suggestion as the whole thing develops. If I'm lucky, I should go to Witch of Grič 2007 with that :) By the way, the whole thing is a gift for my old man who also chose the figurines. :)

    Anyway, here are a few photos of how far I've come so far. When it comes to painting, it will be a little colder and darker atmosphere (I hope I will need it as it should be), somewhere in the transition from autumn to winter, so there will be some fallen leaves and small patches of snow here and there ... Under the bridge I’ll likely put resin.

    What’s not on the diorama now, and I plan to put in, is one passenger that I’ll probably convert standing next to a tree with a light waiting for the outriders to pass. The wooden sign is there as a tryout, I'm not sure if it will stay or not ...

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    The material is Miliput (Superfine White - white parts, and standard Yellow-Gray - this greenish) and textured paste for the ground. There’s no particular reason why I used both types of milliputs, I just wanted to see what the difference is between those two types. I recommend the standard yellow-gray, the details on it are easier to see when modelling and it hardens harder than white. The sign is made of balsa, I just slipped part of the staple through a vertical and horizontal board for strength.

    I did some work on the tree, covered the trunk, now I need to fix the branches. A part of the stones for the bridge was also arranged, the rest when this part dries.

    The passenger is sort of done, this is just a concept ready for now (thanks to Demonn for too good bits), still missing the cloak and lantern that I will try to make myself.

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    Well… I’m debating whether to cut off this lowest branch. And yes, I will have to cut off the branch, so try to make it look like it was sawn off in that place. Not only is it not convincing, but from certain angles it looks like something that Višen likes to put on his conversions ...: D

    Couple of things done…. Tree branch cut off.

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    I will cover the edges with smooth cardboard that will be painted black when the whole thing is finished. I have an idea to incorporate small slats for the border of a few centimeters.

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    Već nešto više od mjesec i pol dana svako malo delam na ovome, pa reko mogao bi pofotkat tu i tamo da stavim na forum, možda netko bude imao kakav zgodan prijedlog dok se cijela stvar razvija. Ako bude sreće, trebao bih s tim na Witch of Grič 2007. :) Inače, cijela stvar je poklon za starog koji je i izabrao figurice. :)

    Enivej, evo par fotki dokle sam do sada došao. Kad dođe do bojanja, bit će malo hladnija i tamnija atmosfera (nadam se da ću potrefit to kak spada), negdje u prijelazu iz jeseni u zimu, tak da bu malo otpalog lišća i malih krpica snijega tu i tamo... Ispod mosta će vjerojatno doći rezin.

    Ono što za sada još nije gore, a planiram stavit, je jedan putnik kojeg ću vjerojatno skonvertirat da stoji pored drva sa svjetiljkom i čeka da outrideri prođu. Drveni znak je tu za probu, nisam ziher da li bude ostao ili ne...

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    Materijal je Miliput (Superfine White - bijeli djelovi, i standardni Yellow-Gray - ovo zelenkasto) i teksturna pasta za zemlju. Nema nekog posebnog razloga zašto sam koristio obje vrste miliputa, htio sam samo vidjeti u čemu je razlika između te dvije vrste. Preporučam standardni yellow-gray, lakše se vide detalji na njemu pri modeliranju i stvrdne se tvrđe od bijeloga. Znak je od balze, samo sam provukao dio spajalice kroz okomitu i vodoravnu dasku zbog čvrstoće.

    Malo sam napravio posla na drvu, prekrio deblo, sada treba još grane sredit. Sređen je i dio kamenja za most, ostatak kad se ovaj dio osuši.

    Putnik je kvazi-složen, ovo je samo koncept gotov za sada (hvala Demonnu na predobrim bitsevima), jos fali plašt i lanterna koje ću probati sam napravit.

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    Nda, i dvoumim se da odrežem ovu najnižu granu. I da, granu ću morat odrezat, pa probat napravit kao da je otpiljena na tom mjestu. Ne samo da nije uvjerljiva, nego i iz određenih kuteva izgleda ko nešto što Višen voli stavit na svoje konverzije... :D

    Par stvarcica dodano... grana je odrezana.

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    Rubove ću prekriti glatkim kartonom koji će biti obojan u crno kada će se cijela stvar farbati. Imam neku ideju da ukomponiram i male letvice za obrub od par centimetara ali otom potom.

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2021-07-21 08:19:41" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2021-07-21 08:19:41" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "32" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "1" ["first_name"]=> string(6) "Martin" ["last_name"]=> string(7) "Vrkljan" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(6) "martin" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(7) "vrkljan" ["username"]=> string(6) "martin" ["password"]=> string(40) "0c0af37d7b03373d0a43e33b44548d17ea3bca7b" ["born"]=> string(19) "2009-05-30 21:29:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2009-05-30 21:30:15" } }
    Martin Vrkljan, 21nd July 2021
  • Necron Destroyer
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    On the necron itself, I didn’t perform anything special as far as converting was concerned except adjusting the pose and cutting the left hand holding the rifle. The base is a little more complex. The stone slabs are made of balsa, the barrels are from GW’s 40k accessories sprue, a bit of slime glue, a bit of thick mesh for the fence windows. The light pole is made of Patton 1:35 tank tubes with a combination of Lego bricks, some parts of Apache 1:48 and some other little things.

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    In the last picture, you can see another feature of this miniature, ie the light pole lamps are bright to point out, or to be precise, the broken lamp hanging on the wires is flashing, and the other whole is just lit. In the vertical barrel there is a 1.5 V LR1 (SN) battery, in the reclining barrel there is a circuit that controls the oscillating diode, and below the "ground" there is a circuit that allows the second diode with a voltage characteristic of 3V to light connected to 1.5V. There is a microswitch on the lighting pole itself, which turns the diodes on and off as desired.

    The most common comments on my luminous necron were, "How could you?"

    I guess most people are not up to digging on the net and looking for schemes, spending money on electricity. elements, burns from a soldering iron, etc., but in case there is someone interested in adding light effects to their miniatures or a private collection of terrain, here are a few pictures and some useful tips.

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    To assemble an assembly that allows the LED to light or flash, you need the following elements:

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    -LED (light emitting diode) of 3V diameter according to your wishes (there are 3mm, 5mm ...)
    -electrolytic capacitor of 100 microfarads and 63V
    -capacitor depending on the flicker speed you want to achieve (0.01 microfarad gives a flicker frequency of 1Hz, 0.001 microfarads of 10Hz, etc.)
    -voltage converter ICL7660 or ICL 7660S (integrated circuit)
    -housing for voltage converter
    -insulated wire for connecting elements
    -1.5 V battery


    -tools: pliers cutters, soldering iron, soldering wire, not necessary but sometimes a voltmeter / ammeter comes in handy.

    These elements are connected according to the following scheme:

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    VOLTAGE CONVERTER (ICL 7660 or ICL 7660S):

    The first thing to know is how to determine which pin is on the voltage converter - Place it in front of you so that the point / hole on the top of the integrator is on the left. The integrator has eight pins and they go in this order: bottom row from left to right 1-4, top row from right to left 5-8. ()

    Another important thing about integrators is that they are very sensitive to high temperatures. Since the soldering iron develops approx. 180-420 C, direct soldering to the integrator pins will probably burn it out. Instead, obtain an integrator housing with eight pin holes and solder everything to the housing pins, and when the soldering is complete, insert the integrator into the housing.

    ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR (C2):

    It has its two legs, one of which is + pole and the other-pole. Minus the pole is marked on the el. capacitor. It is very important to connect it exactly as it is drawn in the diagram, ie + half of the condom on pin 2 of the integrator, and - half of the condo on pin 4 of the integrator. This is important because electrolytic capacitors, unlike ordinary ones, are precharged to a certain voltage (in our case to 63V) and in the case of a wrong connection when they are connected to the power supply, they explode.

    CAPACITOR (C1):

    Unlike electrolytic ones, ordinary ones are not precharged, they have an air gap and not electrolytes, and it doesn't matter which pin you connect to pin 7 and which to pin 8. Take care only of the oscillation frequency you want to achieve.

    LED:

    LEDs are semiconductor elements that emit light when they are powered. The advantage of LEDs over light bulbs is that they consume much less electricity and do not burn out. The LED has two electrodes, the anode is longer (+), and the cathode is shorter (-). The anode is connected to the positive pole of the source and the cathode to the negative. In the case of a reverse connection, nothing will most likely happen to the LED, but it will not light up either.

    Similar to integrated circuits and LEDs, they are sensitive to high temperatures and can burn out during prolonged soldering. I advise you to stick the pliers to the electrode you are currently soldering (between the tip of the LED and the place you are soldering) when soldering the LEDs. In this way, the pliers will serve you not only to hold but also to dissipate heat.

    The diagram still shows an element marked R1 and is drawn intermittently. It’s a photodiode and it serves to keep the LED from shining in daylight - for some sort of battery saving. Feel free to take it out of the circuit, but rather add a switch between pin 3 and the half of the battery so that you can turn off and turn on the LEDs as desired.

    This circuit allows the LEDs to vibrate at a certain frequency. If you want your LED to light up constantly, simply remove capacitor C1 from the circuit and connect everything else.

    The advantage of this circuit is that it allows the LEDs provided for a 3V power supply to be lit only at 1.5V. This in turn gives a greater choice of suitably small batteries.

    In the end for those who put in the effort and read the entire post to the end, this seems harder and more complicated than it really is. I tried to write explanations so that the circuit can be assembled by someone who has no idea what a capacitor is, for example. Honestly, I don't fully understand some things either (what exactly does C2 do in the circle: -k). My point is, if you have never done anything like this, it is still enough to buy the elements and connect them as shown in the picture and to illuminate for example the landing drop for 40k.

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(7452) "

    Na samom necronu nisam izvodio ništa posebno što se konvertiranja tiče osim namještanja poze i rezanja lijeve ruke koja drži pušku. Baza je malo kompleksnija. Kamene ploče se napravljene od balse, bačve su sa GWovog 40k asesoris sprua, malo lijepila za slajm, malo guste mreže za prozore za ogradu. Rasvjetni stup je napravljen od cijevi tenka Patton 1:35 uz kombinaciju lego kocki, nekih djelova od Apacha 1:48 i još nekih sitnica.

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    Na zadnjoj slici se donekle vidi još jedan feature ove minijature tj. lampe rasvjetnog stupa svijetle za istač, odnosno da budem precizan, slomljena lampa koja visi na žicama treperi, a ova druga čitava samo svijetli. U okomitoj bačvi se nalazi baterija LR1(SN) od 1.5 V, u polegnutoj bačvi je sklop koji upravlja titrajućom diodom, a ispod "zemlje" sklop koji omogućava da druga dioda naponske karakteristike od 3V svijetli spojena na 1,5V. Na samom rasvjetnom stupu se nalazi mikroprekidač kojim se po želji pale i gase diode.

    Najčešći komentari na mog svjetlećeg necrona su bili: "Kak ti se dalo?"

    Pretpostavljam da većini ljudi nije do kopanja po netu i traženja shema, trošenja love na el. elemente, opeklina od lemilice isl, ali u slučaju do postoji netko zainteresiran za dodavanje svjetlosnih efekata na svoje minijature ili privatnu kolekciju terena evo par slika i nekoliko korisnih savjeta.

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    Za sastavljanje sklopa koji omogućava da LED svijetli ili treperi su vam potrebni sljedeći elementi:

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    -LED (light emiting diod) od 3V promjera po vašoj želji (ima ih od 3mm, 5mm...)
    -elektrolitski kondenzator od 100 mikrofarada i 63V
    -kondenzator kapaciteta u ovisnosti o brzini treperenja koju želite postići (0.01 mikrofarad daje frekvenciju treperenja od 1Hz, 0.001 mikrofarad od 10Hz itd.)
    -naponski pretvornik ICL7660 ili ICL 7660S (integrirani krug)
    -kućište za naponski pretvornik
    -izolirana žica za spajanje elemenata
    -baterija od 1,5 V

    -od alata: cvikcange (neki ih zovu i sjekača kliješta), lemilica, žica za lemljenje, nije neophodno ali ponekad dobro dođe i voltmetar/ampermetar.

    Ti elementi se spajaju po sljedećoj shemi:

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    NAPONSKI PRETVORNIK (ICL 7660 ili ICL 7660S):

    Prvo što treba znati jest kako odrediti koji je koji pin na naponskim pretvorniku - Postavi ga pred sebe tako da je točka/rupica na gornjoj strani integrirca s lijeve strane. Integrirac ima osam pinova i oni idu ovim redosljedom: doljnji red s lijeva na desno 1-4, gornji red s desna na lijevo 5-8. ()

    Druga bitna stvar oko integriraca je da su jako osjetljivi na visoke temperature. S obzirom da lemilica razvija cca 180-420 C direktno lemljenje na pinove integrirca će ga vjerojatno pregoriti. Umjesto toga, nabavite kučište za integrirac sa osam rupa za pinove i lemite sve na pinove kučišta, a po završetku lemljenja upiknite integrirac u kučište.

    ELEKTROLITSKI KONDENZATOR (C2):

    On ima svoje dvije nožice od kojih je jedna + pol, a druga -pol. Minus pol je označen na samom el. kondenzatoru. Vrlo je važno spojiti ga upravo onako kako je to nacrtano na shemi tj. +pol konda na pin 2 integrirca, a - pol konda na pin 4 integrirca. To je važno zato što su elektrolitski kondenzatori za razliku od običnih prednabijeni na neki napon (u našem slučaju na 63V) i u slučaju krivog spajanja prilikom uključenja u struju eksplodiraju.

    KONDENZATOR (C1):

    Za razliku od elektrolitskih, obični nisu prednabijeni, imaju zračni raspor a ne elektrolite i sasvim je svejedno koju nožicu spajate na pin 7, a koju na pin 8. Vodite brigu samo o frekvenciji titranja koju želite postići.

    LED:

    LEDovi su poluvodički elementi koji kada su protjecani strujom isijavaju svijetlost. Prednost LEDova nad žaruljicama je što troše puno manje struje i ne pregaraju. LED ima dvije elektrode, duža je anoda (+), a kraća je katoda (-). Anoda se spaja na pozitivan pol izvora, a katoda na negativan. U slučaju obratnog spajanja LEDu se najvjerojatnije neće ništa desiti, ali neće ni svjetliti.

    Slično kao i integrirani krugovi i LEDovi su osjetljivi na visoke temperature i moguće ih je pregoriti prilikom dužeg lemljenja. Savjetujem da si prilikom lemljenja LED pridržavate sa klještima za onu elektrodu koju trenutno lemite (i to između vrha LEDa i mjesta koje lemite). Na taj način će vam kliješta služiti osim za pridržavanje i za odvođenje topline.

    Na shemi se još nalazi elemenat označen sa R1 i nacrtan je isprekidano. To je fotodioda i ona služi da LED ne svijetli na danjem svijetlu - za neku vrstu uštede baterije. Nju slobodno izbacite iz kruga, a radije dodajte između pina 3 i -pola baterije sklopku kojom ćete moći gasiti i paliti LEDove po želji.

    Ovakav sklop omogućava titranje LEDa na određenoj frekvenciji. Ako želite da vaš LED svjetli konstantno jednostavno iz sheme izbacite kondenzator C1, a sve ostalo spojite.

    Prednost ovog sklopa je to što omogučava da LEDovi predviđeni za napajanje od 3V svijetle priključeni samo na 1,5V. To pak daje veći izbor prikladno malih baterija.

    Na kraju za one koji su si dali truda i pročitali cijeli post do kraja, ovo izgleda teže i kompliciranije nego što zaista jest. Pokušao sam napisati objašnjenja tako da sklop može sastaviti i netko tko nema pojma kaj je npr. kondenzator. Iskreno, ni ja sam ne kužim u potpunosti neke stvari (šta točno radi C2 u krugu :-k ). My point is, ako nikad niste radili išta slično, još uvijek je dovoljno da kupite elemente i spojite ih kao što je prikazano na slici i da osvjetlite npr. landing pad za 40k.

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2021-07-21 07:57:07" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2021-07-21 07:57:07" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "60" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(8) "Tomislav" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Petrović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(8) "tomislav" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "petrovic" ["username"]=> string(5) "fidel" ["password"]=> string(0) "" ["born"]=> string(19) "2015-01-18 09:17:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2015-01-18 09:17:44" } }
    Tomislav Petrović, 21nd July 2021
  • 40k Army Display Board
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        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(22) "40k Army Display Board"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(19) "40k tabla za vojsku"
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    The display base is made to order and is intentionally left unfinished (static grass and plants are missing) at the request of the customer - he wants to glue it himself.

    The work on the board itself was pretty straight forward and wasn’t much different from this. There were a few little things the custom…... this really sounds sterile ... that Konti demanded:
    - to fit in the suitcase .... check
    - not too high .... check
    - that there is a resin water feature.... check
    - to have the simplest corner moldings .... check

    Anyway:
    - cut the OSB board to the required dimension Ž
    - cut the plywood board to the same dimension as the OSB board
    - connected them with a screwdriver and sanded to get that the edges of both plates to match perfectly
    - coated both sides of the OSB board with wallpaper (the OSB board is quite uneven and inconspicuous even when painted - otherwise I don't use them for this kind of work, but since the moldings dictated the thickness of the boards it was only thin enough that I had on hand )
    - draw on plywood where to drill holes for figures and drilled them
    - glued the plywood to the OSB, added the moldings, painted and sanded
    - painted moldings
    - added crater, pipes, stones, textured, undercoated, painted
    - when it was all over I added a transparent resin tinted with Pebeo Vitrail Brown
    - let it dry, take pictures so I can brag on the forum

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(3014) "

    Display base je rađen po narudžbi, namjerno je nedovršen (nedostaje static grass i raslinje), odnosno po želji naručitelja - želi ga sam poljepiti.

    Sam posao na ploči je bio prilično straight forward i nije se puno razlikovao od ovoga. Postojalo je nekoliko sitnica koje je naruč... ovo stvarno zvuči sterilno...koje je Konti zahtjevao:
    -da stane u kofer....check
    -da nije previsok....check
    -da ima resina....check
    -da ima najjednostavnije kutne lajsne....check

    Uglavnom:
    -izrezao osb ploču na potrebnu dimenziju
    -izrezao šper ploču na istu dimenziju kao i osb ploču
    -spojio ih šerafcangama i pohoblao kako bi dobio da se rubovi obje ploče savršeno poklapaju
    -presvukao obje strane osb ploče tapetama (osb ploča je prilično neravna i neugledna čak i kad se ofarba
    - inače ih ne koristim za ovakav posao, ali s obzirom da su mi lajsne diktirale debljinu ploča to je bilo jedino dovoljno tanko što sam imao pri ruci)
    -zacrtao na šperploči gdje treba bušiti rupe za figure i izbušio ih
    -zaljepio šper na osb, dodao lajsne, pokitao i izbrusio
    -ofarbao lajsne
    -dodao krater, cijevi, kamenje, teksturirao, undercoatao, ofarbao
    -kada je sve bilo gotovo dodao sam prozirni resin toniran sa pebeo vitrail smeđom bojom
    -pustio da se osuši, uslikao da se mogu hvaliti po forumu

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2021-07-20 08:39:10" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2021-07-20 08:39:10" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "60" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(8) "Tomislav" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Petrović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(8) "tomislav" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "petrovic" ["username"]=> string(5) "fidel" ["password"]=> string(0) "" ["born"]=> string(19) "2015-01-18 09:17:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2015-01-18 09:17:44" } }
    Tomislav Petrović, 20th July 2021
  • DISPLAY BASE FOR CHAOS ARMY
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        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(27) "DISPLAY BASE FOR CHAOS ARMY"
        ["title_hrv"]=>
        string(21) "BAZA ZA CHAOS VOJSKU "
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        ["content_eng"]=>
        string(18774) "

    Since my brother went to Krems this year (editor's note: 2005) for the second time for the Austrian Championship, and the display base is one of the conditions for the community there to participate in the tournament, here's how I put in the effort and made one.

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    To clarify one thing, display bases (hereinafter DB) that are made in such a way that a certain surface is flocked, painted, maybe some extra features, and the figures are placed on it is for me a halfassed solution - in short, a lot of work for something that looks average. I consider a DB to be da bomb when each unit or individual figure has its own slot in which it is placed so that the surface of the base of the figure is flush with the surface of the DB.

    Dissatisfied with the fact that the DB created in this way is useful while the list for which it was made is current, I decided to make a display base that will be applicable to each list (at least its main part), and only the surface will change - when you go deeper into the text , you will understand what I meant.

    1. Found a suitable board (2 cm thick)

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    2. Since my rectangular shape is too ordinary, I decided to complicate things a bit and make a non-real octagon (by that I mean 4 sides of the same length). I made a draft and transferred it to the board:

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    3. I got rid of the excess with a jigsaw, so now the DB has a shape in which the angles are under 150 degrees, 4 sides 30 cm long, and the other four 14 cm + a couple of millimeters, which will later be removed by planing and grinding.

    Tip: Never cut the board to the desired dimension but leave 2-4 mm due to the above procedures later:

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    4. I also cut a 4 mm thick plywood board to the same shape (the figure bases are 4 mm thick):

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    5. I made 4 holes in the board and plywood with a drill, which will later be fitted with screws that will fix the plywood to the main board:

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    6. Then I widened the holes on the plywood so that the nut would fit in them. I used screws fi = 5 mm and the nut for them is 4 mm thick so it won’t protrude beyond the plywood. After that, the joint between the nut and the plywood is well sanded with super glue, making sure that the glue does not go on the thread because it could later interfere with the screw:

    Tip: Since the nut in the board must be fixed, it is desirable to drill a 1 mm smaller hole, and then drive it into the board with a hammer and brutal force.

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    7. After the nut is fixed, for the first time the plywood and the main plate are connected with screws in order to determine how long the screw needs to be and to remove the excess:

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    It looks like this:

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    8. After the screw was shortened to the appropriate length, I covered the nuts on the top of the plywood board with masking tape so that I could texture that surface later.

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    9. After that I joined the boards and due to the inaccuracy in cutting the boards and drilling the holes the edges looked like this:

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    10. In order to achieve that the edges match, the excess needs to be planed, and then finely sanded. After this procedure the condition is as follows:

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    11. After processing the edges with a vibrating grinder, I sanded all the surfaces on the plywood and the main board:

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    12. The next and most demanding step is to place the decorative moldings on the edges of the board. I took 3x3 cm high / wide corner skirting boards for parquet length of 2 m. The skirting board is coated with wood fix, joined to the board, and then I additionally fastened it with nails:

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    13. After installing the moldings the whole thing looks like this:

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    14. As the angle on the legs of the molding is not right, but it is cut obliquely, it happened that I have a "groove" on the lower side between the molding itself and the plate. This proved to be a happy coincidence because knowing your brother (a man is able to tear a steel ball) any extra fixation comes in handy. I filled the grooves with hot glue using a gun (I guess you know which tool I'm talking about):

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    15. As I approached the plane of the board and molding any excess glue that might protrude over that plane I straightened with a spatula while the glue was hot and liquid. After gluing, the underside of the board looks like this:

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    16. Since I don't have the right tools (saw stand)), I had to determine the angles of 150 degrees between the moldings by eye only, and especially because I'm not a carpenter, the next thing happened:

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    17. I sanded the joints to get rid of the protruding parts, and I cracked the cracks between the moldings using carpentry putty and left it to dry overnight. The next day I sanded the putty with fine sandpaper to make a perfect transition between the two strips and the putty and so that after painting everything together I would not see the difference between the putty and the wooden part.:

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    18. Now it's time to paint. I protected the moldings with protective tape:

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    19. Then I painted the board between the moldings with black matt spray and left it to dry:

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    20. After that, it was time to paint the moldings. I protected the previously painted black surface with a protective tape:

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    21. I used brown wood paint with integrated varnish which, in addition to protecting, also gives a gloss effect. I took a darker shade (rosewood) because the darker color covers the putty better.

    Tip: Apply the first coat only on putty parts and wait for the paint to dry well. After that, in the second painting, paint the complete moldings. Two or three coats of well-smeared coat should be enough for a nice coverage - of course, between each coat you should wait for the previous one to dry well:

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    22. A few more small details and the main board is ready. I bought wood wallpaper for the underside of the DB - black wallpaper with rings - it definitely looks the most convincing and least cheap:

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    23. After installing the wallpaper, the underside of the DB looks like this:

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    24. The final job on the DB main panel is varnishing the screws and black so that the metal head of the screw does not look ugly on the black wallpaper:

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    25. Now it's the plywood board's turn. I placed the unite on it and marked the parts to be removed according to them:

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    26. After that, I drilled holes in the corners for cutting with a jigsaw:

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    27. After cutting the excess and sanding the plywood looks like this:

    Tip: When cutting, it is good to make sure and make a 1 mm bigger hole for the bases, because if you cut too small a hole later, it is a real pain to grind the part that bothers you so that the base fits nicely into the hole.

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    28. The next step is to text the plywood. I will not talk too much about this because the procedure is the same as when texturing the most ordinary terrain:

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    29. Since the Austrians also demand some extra feature on the DB, we decided to make a monolith dedicated to the nurgle god. I cut it out of a piece of wood, processed it by planing and grinding, and then made indentations with a flexor. The flexor may be an unorthodox tool for making models (especially if they are made of wood), but it is very effective. The dead-line that hung dangerously on my back at that stage of making DB makes all sorts of ideas fall through in order to speed up the work:

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    30. Later we decorated the monolith with, for a nurgle, the characteristic three circles arranged in a triangle using large screw plates, added waterlogging heads from chaos tank sprue, added a tray made of half a plug of Ax dezic, a hot glue gun made slime leaking waterlogged from the mouth into the tray and then overflowing over the edge and dripping down the monolith to the base. Relatively simple special feature, and yet in the spirit of the military. I fixed the monolith with wood fix and plywood nails and when everything was in place I undercoated with black matt spray:

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    That in short (well, not very short) would be that.

    The point is that one day, when the list is changed, this plywood is replaced with another plywood, which will be cut according to a template that matches the new list, with maybe some new feature instead of a monolith to refresh the impression a bit, and the base itself to be further usable.

    I hope that the text is clear enough and that there are enough pictures and that those who will one day want to make their DB, but are not sure where to start and how to finish the job will benefit from this text.

    P.S.

    Still, a few words of warning because not everything is as simple as the text suggests.

    FIRST

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    The circular saw is a dangerous tool, and I definitely have no luck with it. A year ago, he almost tore off my left index finger. This time, fortunately, she was excluded, but even then she showed her insidious nature (a sharp knife that looks benign while static).

    SECOND :

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    I don’t know about you, but the mess I leave behind in creative ecstasy is, to put it mildly, terrifying. I think I’ll avoid the basement for a while because I get depressed every time I see how much cleaning awaits me.

    Ok, I’m finally done writing.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(19010) "

    Budući da se buraz ove godine (napomena urednika: 2005. godina) po drugi puta uputio u Krems na prvenstvo Austrije, a tamošnjoj zajednici je display base jedan od uvjeta za sudjelovanje na turniru, evo kako sam si dao truda i skombinirao jedan.

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    Da razjasnimo jednu stvar, display baseovi (u daljnjem tekstu DB) koji su napravljeni na način da je određena površina poflockana, pobojana, možda pokoji ekstra feature, a na to se stavljaju figure je za mene ni-vrit ni-mimo rješenje :arrow: ukratko, dosta posla za nešto što zgleda prosječno. Smatram da je DB šmekerski onda kada svaki unit ili zasebna figura ima svoj utor u koji se postavi tak da površina baze figure bude u ravnini sa površinom DB-a.

    Nezadovoljan činjenicom da je tako izrađen DB koristan dok je lista za koju je rađen aktualna, odlučio sam napraviti display base koji će biti primjenjiv za svaku listu (barem njegov glavni dio), a mijenjat će se samo površina :arrow: kad uđete dublje u tekst, shvatiti će te na kaj sam mislio.

    1. Našao odgovarajuću ploču (debljina 2 cm)

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    2. S obzirom da mi je pravokutan oblik preobičan, odlučio sam malo zakomplicirati stvari i napraviti ne-pravi osmerokut (pod time mislim da su po 4 stranice iste dužine). Napravio sam nacrt i prenio ga na ploču:

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    3. Ubodnom pilom sam se riješio viškova tako da sada DB ima oblik u kojem su kutovi pod 150 stupnjeva, 4 strane duge 30 cm, a druge 4 14 cm + par milimetara koji će se kasnije skinuti hoblanjem i brušenjem.

    Savjet: Nikad ne rezati ploču na željenu dimenziju već ostaviti 2-4 mm zbog gore navedenih kasnijih postupaka:

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    4. Na isti oblik sam izrezao i šper-ploču debelu 4 mm (toliko je debela baza od figura):

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    5. Bušilicom sam napravio 4 rupe u ploči i šper-ploči u koje će kasnije ući vijci kojima će se šper-ploča fiksirati na glavnu ploču:

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    6. Zatim sam na šper-ploči proširio rupe tako da u njih stane matica. Koristio sam vijke fi=5 mm, a matica za njih je debela 4 mm tako da neće stršati izvan šper-ploče. Nakon toga se spoj matice i špera dobro nasafta sa super ljepilom i pri tome se pazi da ljepilo na ode na navoj jer bi moglo kasnije smetati vijku:

    Savjet: S obzirom da matica u šperu mora biti fiksna poželjno je izbušiti 1 mm manju rupu, a zatim ju čekićem i brutalnom silom zabiti u šper.

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    7. Nakon što je matica fiksirana po prvi puta se vijcima spaja šper i glavna ploča kako bi se ustvrdilo koliko je vijak predug i otkefirio višak:

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    To izgleda ovako:

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    8. Nakon što je vijak skraćen na odgovarajuću dužinu, matice sa gornje strane šper-ploče sam prekrio krep ljepljivom trakom kako bi kasnije tu površinu mogao teksturirati.

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    9. Nakon toga sam spojio ploče i zbog nepreciznosti kod rezanja ploča i bušenja rupa rubovi su izgledali ovako:

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    10. Kako bi se postiglo da se rubovi poklapaju potrebno je viškove ishoblati, a zatim i fino izbrusiti. Nakon tog postupka stanje je sljedeće:

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    11. Nakon obrade rubova vibracionom brusilicom sam izbrusio sve plohe na šperu i glavnoj ploči:

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    12. Sljedeći i najzahtjevniji korak je postavljanje ukrasnih lajsni na rubove ploče. Uzeo sam 3x3 cm visoke/široke kutne lajsne za parkete dužine 2 m. Lajsna se premaže sa drvofixom, spoji na ploču, a zatim sam ju još dodatno učvrstio čavlićima:

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    13. Nakon postavljanja lajsni cijela stvar izgleda ovako:

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    14. Kako kut na katetama lajsni nije pravi već je rezana na koso desilo se da na donjoj strani imam "žljeb" između same lajsne i ploče. To se pokazalo kao sretna koincidencija jer poznavajući svog buraza (čovjek je u stanju strgati čeličnu kuglu) svako ekstra učvršćenje dobro dođe. Ispunio sam žljebove sa vrućim ljepilom koristeći pištolj (pretpostavljam da znate o kojem alatu govorim):

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    15. Kako sam se bližio ravnini ploče i lajsne svaki višak ljepila koji bi mogao stršati preko te ravnine sam ravnao špahtlom dok je ljepilo bilo vruće i tekuće. Nakon ljepljenja doljnja strana ploče izgleda ovako:

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    16. S obzirom da nemam odgovarajući alat (stalak za pilu)), da sam kutove od 150 stupnjeva između lajsni morao određivati skoro odokativno, a pogotovo zato što nisam stolar desila se sljedeća stvar:

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    17. Izbrusio sam spojeve tako da se riješim dijelova koji su stršali, a pukotine između lajsni sam pokitao koristeći stolarski kit te ostavio preko noći da se posuši. Sljedeći dan sam finim brusnim papirom izbrusio kit kako bi se napravio savršen prijelaz između dvije lajsne i kita te kako se ne bi nakon kaj sve skupa pofarbam vidjela razlika između kitanog i drvenog dijela:

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    18. Sad je došlo vrijeme za farbanje. Zaštitio sam lajsne zaštitnom trakom:

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    19. Zatim sam crnim matt sprejem pofarbao ploču između lajsni i ostavio da se osuši:

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    20. Nakon toga je došao red na farbanje lajsni. Zaštitnom trakom sam zaštitio malo prije ofarbanu crnu površinu:

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    21. Koristio sam smeđu boju za drvo sa integriranim lakom koji osim što zaštićuje daje i gloss efekt. Uzeo sam tamniju nijansu (palisander) jer tamnija boja bolje prekriva kit.

    Savjet: Prvi sloj nanjeti samo na kitane dijelove i čekati da se boja dobro posuši. Nakon toga u drugom farbanju farbati kompletne lajsne. Dva ili tri sloja dobro razmazana sloja bi trebala biti dovoljno za lijepo prekrivanje - naravno, između svakog sloja treba čekati da se prethodni dobro osuši:

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    22. Još nekoliko sitnih detalja i glavna ploča je gotova. Kupio sam tapete za drvo za doljnju stranu DB-a - crna tapeta sa godovima - definitivno izgleda najuvjerljivije i najmanje jeftino :

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    23. Nakon postavljanja tapete doljnja strana DB-a izgleda ovako:

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    24. Završni posao na glavnoj ploči DB-a je lakiranje vijaka i crno kako metalna glava vijka ne bi ružno izgledala na crnoj tapeti:

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    25. Sada je na red došla šper-ploča. Postavio sam na nju unite i prema njima označio dijelove koji se trebaju odstraniti:

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    26. Nakon toga sam bušilicom napravio rupe po uglovima zbog rezanja ubodnom pilom:

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    27. Nakon izrezivanja viškova i brušenja šper izgleda ovako:

    Savjet: Prilikom rezanja je dobro osigurati se i napraviti 1 mm veću rupu za baze jer ako se izreže premala rupa kasnije je prava muka izbrusiti dio koji vam smeta kako bi baza lijepo sjela u rupu.

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    28. Sljedeći korak je teksturiranje špera. O ovome neću previše pričati jer je postupak isti kao i kada se teksturira najobičniji teren:

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    29. S obzirom da Austrijanci zahtjevaju i nakakav ekstra feature na DB-u odlučili smo napraviti monolit posveće nurgle bogu. Izrezao sam ga iz komada drveta, obradio hoblanjem i brušenjem, a zatim sam fleksericom napravio udubine. Flekserica je možda neortodoksan alat za izradu maketa (pogotovo ako su od drveta), ali je vrlo efikasna. Dead-line koji mi je u tom stadiju izrade DB-a opasno visio na grbači čini da čovjeku padnu svakakve ideje ne bi li ubrzao posao:

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    30. Kasnije smo monolit ukrasili sa, za nurglea, karakteristična tri kruga smještena u trokut koristeći velike pločice za vijke, dodali vodorigine glave sa chaos tank sprue-a, dodali pliticu napravljenu od polovice čepa od Axe dezića, pištoljem za vruće ljepilo napravili slime koji vodorigama curi iz usta u pliticu, a zatim se preljeva preko ruba i po monolitu curi do podnožja. Relativno jednostavan special feature, a opet u duhu vojske. Monolit sam učvrstio drvofixom i čavlima za šper-ploču i kada je sve bilo na svom mjestu naundercoatao sa crnim matt sprejom:

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    To bi ukratko (dobro, ne baš kratko) bilo to. Kad se buraz vrati iz Austrije postat ću još slike kako je pofarban monolit i baza te kako sve skupa izgleda kada se postavi vojska.

    Poanta je, znači, da se ovaj šper jednog dana kada se promijeni lista zamijeni sa drugim šperom kojem će biti izrezan po šabloni koja odgovara novoj listi, sa možda nekim novim feature-om umjesto monolita da malo osvježi dojam, a da sama baza bude i dalje iskoristiva.

    Nadam se da je tekst dovoljno jasan i da ima dovoljno slika te da će onima koji će jednog dana htjeti napraviti svoj DB, a nisu sigurni gdje početi i kako posao privesti kraju imati koristi od ovog teksta.

    P.S.

    Ipak, nekoliko riječi upozorenja jer nije sve tako jednostavno kako bi se iz teksta dalo naslutiti.

    Prvo je

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    flekserica je opasan alat, a ja definitivnom nema sreće s njom. Prije godinu dana je malo nedostajalo da mi otkine lijevi kažiprst. Ovaj puta je na sreću bila isključena, ali i tada je pokazala svoju podmuklu narav (oštar nož koji izgleda benigno dok je statičan).

    Drugo je :

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    Ne znam za vas, ali nered koji ostavljam iza sebe u kreativnom zanosu je blago rečeno zastrašujuć. Mislim da ću neko vrijeme izbjegavati podrum jer padnem u depresiju svaki puta kada vidim koliko me spremanja čeka.

    Ok, sad sam stvarno gotov s pisanjem.

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2021-07-20 08:35:35" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2021-07-20 08:35:35" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "60" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(8) "Tomislav" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Petrović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(8) "tomislav" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "petrovic" ["username"]=> string(5) "fidel" ["password"]=> string(0) "" ["born"]=> string(19) "2015-01-18 09:17:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2015-01-18 09:17:44" } }
    Tomislav Petrović, 20th July 2021

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