Comic Style Mechas

Mario Grgurev, 12nd September 2023

In today's article, I will show my way of coloring cartoon or comic style, whichever suits you. I implement it on mech figures, specifically from the game Heavy Gear Blitz. As soon as I saw them, they inspired me to try to imitate the retro animation from the anime studios of the 80s and 90s, of which I am a huge fan. I say imitations because it's not easy to transfer the feeling of an animated character to the world of miniatures, it's a question of the amount of detail and lighting - two factors that I'm still trying to perfect.

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The idea is not to create NMM (Non-Metallic Metal), although it can look like that, but this is a Cel-shading approach to colors and lighting that segments surfaces into clearly separated tones. The comparison with NMM is in how it handles light on the miniature, where the parallel is drawn because you determine the source and amount of light that is shown in the shading yourself.

My examples in this article are reminiscent of NMM because I shade separate panels, trying to get highlights and slight color fades individually, but if we look at the examples in the animation, the model is often shaded by itself and the transition of shadow and light is only in a few places.

Similar to NMM, the approach is a little more complicated, but the technique is simple: we choose which side the light comes from - the panels facing the light are always brighter, the others are darker. Then we determine the direction of the light and shade so that wash or contrast paint from GW falls, but in controlled layers with clearly defined edges between tones. The final highlight is white, it's standard in cartoons. All edges, or at least all visible, are black lines.

Black lines can be obtained in three ways, one is with the side of the brush on the raised edge, the second is with the prominent tip of the brush in the recesses, while the third is with thin felt-tip pens. The third one is considered mild cheating in our hobby, but I strongly believe that such a term does not exist in our dictionary, if we are talking about manual techniques.

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You have to be careful with felt-tip pens, because sometimes they can flow too much on a small edge, but that can all be painted over.

My personal procedure is as follows: I paint the entire model with the darkest color, then determine the side that is lit - in these cases, the front. After that I start shading the mech panels, roughly with triangular shapes to emphasize the light from above. So I lighten all the panels in one or two layers before adding a final highlight with white. After that, I blacken the edges for a "cartoon feel". The inevitable fix for edge blackening bugs is at an end.

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For the bases, I decided to make a freehand drawing instead of a 3D base as we usually do, I thought it was appropriate that the drawings are in a flat environment. Since the game is mostly played on desert terrain, I used a few colors to show the small "dunes", black lines and, here and there, some shaded rocks. The bases were completed in this way relatively quickly.

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    I think we've mastered the rules and independent play quite well, and I'm looking forward to Turm!

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    Nastavljamo sa pripremama za našu tradicionalnu Agram Arenu Summer – TURM2024 demo partijama Forbidden Psalma, igre koja će se igrati u srpnju na Areni. U ovoj partiji, naša Ana, organizatorica TURMa, organizira partiju za Seba i Domagoja, ali ih prepušta same sebima i pri izboru svojih vojski!

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    Mislim da smo poprilicno dobro savladali pravila i samostalnu igru, i veselim se Turmu!

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    Za kraj, ekipa je provela struju, odn. rasvjetu kroz cijelu maketu. 

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    A rezultat je bio magičan!

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    Ulaz na predavanja je besplatan i otvoren za sve te prijave nisu potrebne.

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  • AGRAM LEGO SECTION - Second Lecture and Part Two of the Build
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    Izrada makete je rezervirana za članove Agram Lego Sekcije. Ukoliko se želite uključiti u izgradnju, javite se za više informacija na ums.agram@gmail.com .

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  • Streaking Grime Test
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    I’m planning two larger projects at the moment - firstly a diorama involving a slightly converted Mortisan Boneshaper from the Ossiarch Bonereapers Age of Sigmar faction raising a bunch of skeletons from their graves, and secondly my own converted warband for the game Forbidden Psalm. Both projects have in common that I want to do them in a sort of Grimdark aesthetic, and so I decided to play around with Streaking Grime. To make sure I don’t ruin the big projects though, a test is necessary.

    I’ve had this 3D-printed General Grievous (courtesy of Kiki - thanks Kiki) lying around for a while, and it’s a good test model. The fact that it’s 3D-printed is a positive, as the details are less crisp than with Legion or Shatterpoint models. This will put Streaking Grime’s capabilities to the test, and I’ll see if it flows into the somewhat superficial recesses as well as oils or other washes. First I gave the model a few quick base coats, as well as a coat of matte varnish.

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    Then I used a cheap synthetic brush to cover the whole model in the Streaking Grime. I left this for 15 minutes.

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    Recently I found some nice makeup remover brushes at DM, that doesn’t leave any cotton hair on my model as Q-tips tend to do. So I covered one side of this makeup remover with Enamel Odourless Thinner, and left the other side dry. I started with the dry side, removing the surface layer of Streaking Grime from the top parts of the model. Then I used the side with the thinner to remove more Streaking Grime. Eventually I used the same cheap, synthetic brush dipped in the Odourless thinner, to remove even more Grime from the hard to reach places. After just a few minutes of removing the enamel, I had this:

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    I like how the Streaking Grime washes and weathers my model in one coat, and the tint it gives to colours, especially beiges tones, appeal to me. After a few quick, simple edge highlights, I had this result:

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    Except for basing and the lightsabers, it’s pretty much finished. All in all this model took me under two hours of painting, and I’ve decided I like the result. I’m going to be using this technique again in my two upcoming projects. Another article with updates on the progress on my Skeleton diorama will follow soon.

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    Trenutačno planiram dva veća projekta - prvo dioramu koja uključuje malo preuređenog Mortisan Boneshaper iz frakcije Ossiarch Bonereapers Age of Sigmar koji podiže hrpu kosture iz njihovih grobova, a kao drugo moj vlastiti preuređen crew za igru Forbidden Psalm. Oba projekta imaju zajedničko to što ih želim raditi u nekoj vrsti Grimdark estetike pa sam odlučio poigrati se sa Streaking Grimeom. Kako bih bio siguran da neću uništiti velike projekte, test je bio neophodan.

    Ovaj 3D isprintani general Grievous (hvala Kiki) ležao je neko vrijeme, stoga je postao dobar testni model. Činjenica da je ispisan 3D je pozitivna, jer su detalji manje oštri nego s modelima Legion ili Shatterpoint. To će dobro testirati metodu sa Streaking Grimea i vidjet ću hoće li se slijevati u udubine kao i ulja ili druga sredstva za pranje. Prvo sam modelu nanio nekoliko brzih temeljnih slojeva, kao i sloj mat laka.

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    Zatim sam jeftinim sintetičkim kistom pokrio cijeli model u Streaking Grime. ostavio sam da se suši 15 minuta.

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    Nedavno sam u DM-u našao lijepe kistove za skidanje šminke, koji ne ostavljaju dlake od pamuka. a što metoda sa štapićima za uši ima tendenciju učiniti. Stoga sam jednu stranu ovog sredstva za skidanje šminke prekrio Enamel Odourless Thinnerom, a drugu stranu ostavio suhom. Počeo sam sa suhom stranom, uklanjajući površinski sloj Streaking Grime s gornjih dijelova modela. Zatim sam upotrijebio stranu s razrjeđivačem uklanjajući višak Streaking Grime. Na kraju sam upotrijebio isti jeftini, sintetički kist umočen u Odourless Thinner, a uklanjanje još više prljavštine s teško dostupnih mjesta. Nakon samo nekoliko minuta skidanja ovo je bio rezultat:

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    Sviđa mi se kako Streaking Grime pere i njeguje moj model u jednom sloju i nijansu koju daje, posebno bež tonovi. Nakon nekoliko brzih, jednostavnih isticanja rubova, dobio sam ovo:

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    Osim baze i svjetlosnih mačeva, prilično je gotovo. Sve u svemu ovaj model me oduševio dva sata bojanja i odlučio sam da mi se sviđa rezultat. Ponovno ću koristiti ovu tehniku u moja dva nadolazeća projekta. Još jedan članak s novostima o napretku moje diorame s kosturom slijedi uskoro.

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