Star Wars Container

Krunoslav Belinić, 12nd September 2023

Half a year ago I tested how I could quickly and easily make some interesting details for Star Wars dioramas or terrains. One of the common elements in all SW world locations (settlements, ships, wrecks) are cube transport containers. I made the first prototype from thicker paper and tried to "harden" it with Plasticator. More about it at the link.

Now I decided to use the same technique, but on a different material. I used Plasticard 1 mm thick and drew a cube container grid on it. I carefully cut the net with the help of a ruler and a scalpel. Since the mesh has "cutting lines" and "folding lines", I was very careful which ones I cut. For plastic card of that thickness, it is enough to cut two or three times with a scalpel with light pressure, carefully so that the blade does not "dance" on the surface of the material.

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Then with just one stroke of the scalpel, being careful not to cut through the entire material, I scored the "fold lines". I carefully folded all the surfaces of the container with my fingers. I was careful not to exceed an angle of 30-45 degrees when bending, so that the material would not break at the notch. I glued the edges of the plastic card with super glue.

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Due to the thickness and stiffness of the material, gluing is simpler than on a paper model, you just have to worry about matching the edges. I additionally processed the triangular corners with a scalpel, beveled the edges for better fitting into the cavities between the surfaces. I glued the triangles with glue for plastic, because it provides the possibility of additional adjustment and filling in unevenness.

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I covered all the glued joints with GSW's Green Putty in a tube to strengthen them in their final form, to cover up the roughness of the cut and to give the weld textures to the joints. After the filler dried, I removed the excess putty with sanding sponges and leveled the surfaces.

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On 0.5 mm plastic card I drew and cut out the texture details of the container cells such as reinforcements and doors. Then I glued them with plastic glue to the large areas of the container.

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Finally, I once again sanded the surfaces and edges of the container with sanding sponges, and then painting followed. I opted for gray-blue metallic shades, matte black inner surfaces and orange stripes for areas that should not be blocked to access the container.

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It remains to add details, highlights and weathering depending on the environment where the container will be placed.

As an idea for further development, there remains the creation of a variant with open container doors or damage from which the dangerous contents of the container come out or are monitored.

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  • Streaking Grime Test
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    Then I used a cheap synthetic brush to cover the whole model in the Streaking Grime. I left this for 15 minutes.

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    I like how the Streaking Grime washes and weathers my model in one coat, and the tint it gives to colours, especially beiges tones, appeal to me. After a few quick, simple edge highlights, I had this result:

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    Except for basing and the lightsabers, it’s pretty much finished. All in all this model took me under two hours of painting, and I’ve decided I like the result. I’m going to be using this technique again in my two upcoming projects. Another article with updates on the progress on my Skeleton diorama will follow soon.

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    Trenutačno planiram dva veća projekta - prvo dioramu koja uključuje malo preuređenog Mortisan Boneshaper iz frakcije Ossiarch Bonereapers Age of Sigmar koji podiže hrpu kosture iz njihovih grobova, a kao drugo moj vlastiti preuređen crew za igru Forbidden Psalm. Oba projekta imaju zajedničko to što ih želim raditi u nekoj vrsti Grimdark estetike pa sam odlučio poigrati se sa Streaking Grimeom. Kako bih bio siguran da neću uništiti velike projekte, test je bio neophodan.

    Ovaj 3D isprintani general Grievous (hvala Kiki) ležao je neko vrijeme, stoga je postao dobar testni model. Činjenica da je ispisan 3D je pozitivna, jer su detalji manje oštri nego s modelima Legion ili Shatterpoint. To će dobro testirati metodu sa Streaking Grimea i vidjet ću hoće li se slijevati u udubine kao i ulja ili druga sredstva za pranje. Prvo sam modelu nanio nekoliko brzih temeljnih slojeva, kao i sloj mat laka.

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    Zatim sam jeftinim sintetičkim kistom pokrio cijeli model u Streaking Grime. ostavio sam da se suši 15 minuta.

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    Nedavno sam u DM-u našao lijepe kistove za skidanje šminke, koji ne ostavljaju dlake od pamuka. a što metoda sa štapićima za uši ima tendenciju učiniti. Stoga sam jednu stranu ovog sredstva za skidanje šminke prekrio Enamel Odourless Thinnerom, a drugu stranu ostavio suhom. Počeo sam sa suhom stranom, uklanjajući površinski sloj Streaking Grime s gornjih dijelova modela. Zatim sam upotrijebio stranu s razrjeđivačem uklanjajući višak Streaking Grime. Na kraju sam upotrijebio isti jeftini, sintetički kist umočen u Odourless Thinner, a uklanjanje još više prljavštine s teško dostupnih mjesta. Nakon samo nekoliko minuta skidanja ovo je bio rezultat:

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    Sviđa mi se kako Streaking Grime pere i njeguje moj model u jednom sloju i nijansu koju daje, posebno bež tonovi. Nakon nekoliko brzih, jednostavnih isticanja rubova, dobio sam ovo:

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    Osim baze i svjetlosnih mačeva, prilično je gotovo. Sve u svemu ovaj model me oduševio dva sata bojanja i odlučio sam da mi se sviđa rezultat. Ponovno ću koristiti ovu tehniku u moja dva nadolazeća projekta. Još jedan članak s novostima o napretku moje diorame s kosturom slijedi uskoro.

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