Learning to Sculpt - the Tomb Guard project

Sebastian Søgård, 14th October 2024

For a while I’ve been wanting to learn how to sculpt miniatures from scratch, based on armatures I make myself. I consider this a very useful skill to have in the hobby as it opens up endless new possibilities for custom characters, conversions and army projects. My theory is that if I can sculpt a whole mini, I can certainly convert or sculpt parts on a mini in the future. I was recommended Greenstuff and Milliput, which are products I’ve familiarised myself with in smaller detail sculpting on previous projects. By now I have a good grip on their working time, consistency, and pliability, so I think it’s time to tackle a full sculpt. After watching a few tutorials by Tom Mason, particularly the one about making armatures, I felt ready.

My expectations are low, as I know this is hard, and requires endless hours of practice. But if I can manage something that looks good enough to make me want to paint and play with it, I’m happy.

This was a project for the summer, and a goal I set myself for August. Since I was planning to travel during this period, I made myself a travel kit with “all” the necessary equipment.

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The kit contains Milliput, Greenstuff, Green Putty (a filler), superglue, hobby-knife, steel wire, pliers to cut the steel wire, a piece of cork to insert the steel wire into while working on the model, two silicone sculpting tools, two metallic sculpting tools and an old brush (to apply the green putty).

After making the armature, and getting the pose I wanted (this is a difficult, but obviously very important step), I started by covering the whole body in a thin layer of greenstuff. I also sculpted chest muscles, although this was only for practice, as I knew I would cover all of this later with clothing/armour.

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Working on this project, I mostly sat outside on the ground, by a table, or wherever I found a good spot when I had a little downtime. With me I always had a cup of water, some Nivea hand cream and my little kit. Since sculpting is a slow process, requiring patience and at least a few hours of curing time in between each session, I found this to be a great activity in combination with a slow summer holiday - something to do in between the daily activities.

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I actually had no plan where I was going with this, or what kind of miniature I wanted to end up with. I’m not sure how smart this is, and wouldn’t necessarily recommend it, but for me, being my first try and all, it worked. I started from the inside, building out, and with each session, adding another layer of clothes or skin. The cape I just tried out since I happened to have an extra thin sheet of greenstuff after finishing a session, and I kept it as I like to paint capes. It’s perhaps more realistic than most miniature capes, but lacks the clear folds of a GW mini for example, and will therefore be harder to paint. But I don’t worry about that now. Painting is not a part of my sculpting concerns.

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I eventually decided on armour for my mini, instead of clothes or muscles. Mostly because it seemed the easiest of the three. Armour is harder, stiffer, and less organic than clothes, and doesn’t require any advanced anatomical knowledge like muscles and skin. To make it simple, I made a thin sheet of Greenstuff and rolled my hobby knife handle over it—both to make it as thin as possible, and to imprint the pattern of my hobby knife onto the Greenstuff. Then I used that same knife to cut out small triangles from the thin sheet, which I glued to different parts of the armour. Different sizes of triangles were used depending on where they went on the body—big ones for the chest pieces, smaller ones for the shins.

When I came back from my vacation, I went through my little box of bits, and found a few I liked that fit the style of what I had sculpted. This was basically for the parts of the mini that I didn’t have the skill or time to sculpt. As I had been told that hands and faces were the hardest, I delayed sculpting these until the end. But I never got around to it, and would probably have ended up ruining what was turning out to be a body I was quite happy with. So after finding hands and a face that fitted, I glued them on, covered some gaps with more greenstuff and had this:

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I was happy at this point, but felt it could still be improved. I removed a few details from his head piece that I felt overcomplicated it, and glued these same parts to his chest instead, covering up some details there I had sculpted that I wasn’t quite happy with. I also added a handle to the lantern in his hand and a skeleton head as his belt buckle. Then I sanded a few details to smooth them out, and finally covered most of it (except the armour with the pattern I had made using my hobby knife handle) in green putty, to cover up any unevenness, gaps or other flaws in the sculpting.

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After a zenithal prime, I had my first sculpted mini. Not perfect by any means. The lantern arm looks broken, the posing of the legs is stiff, and required me to make a strange base for it to look more natural, and in the end, I didn’t sculpt the entire mini. Also the scale is off (this mistake can be traced all the way back to the armature), so it doesn’t really fit in with other 28 or 35mm models. However, as a Tomb Guard (the lore became apparent during the later stages of sculpting), he can basically be any size - a large, living statue, guarding some kind of valuable tomb in D&D or other narrative game. Now I’ll also have more confidence going forward with other projects that require small amounts of sculpting or conversion. So all in all a worthwhile project.

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  • Miniature Painting Workshop - 75mm Dwarf
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    On 09-10.05.2026. we held a new weekend miniature painting workshop. This time it was the turn of a dwarf in 75mm scale.

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    The workshop was held over two days (a whole weekend) and the participants painted a 75mm miniature dwarf. The focus of these lectures was painting various textures - metal, human skin, textiles and leather. Water-based acrylic paints were used in the workshop. For this purpose, the workshop leader, Ivan Knezović, chose a 75mm miniature dwarf from Durgin Paint Forge, sculpted by Carlos Perez Bugedo. The lectures were adapted so that the leader devotes equal time to all participants and can be adapted to all categories of miniaturists (from beginners to slightly more advanced).

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    The workshop took place as follows:
    First, the lecturer sits at his desk and explains and demonstrates each step in painting a miniature/model on his specimen. His work is displayed on a screen via a camera and projector, which the participants listen to, watch, and ask questions about.
    Then, the participants sit at their desks and apply the knowledge they have gained. The facilitator circulates among the participants and checks how each participant is doing. This way, he or she can adapt to each participant individually.

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    The workshop will include the following thematic units:
    1. NMM (Non metallic metal)
    2. Reflections of ambient colors on metal
    3. Steel / gold
    4. Face painting (male)
    5. Adding vibrancy to the face (filters)
    6. Extracting textures from fabric, metal and leather

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    POWERED BY: Carta MagicaFireball FigurinesDurgin Paint ForgePlaysupport

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    09-10.05.2026. smo održali novu vikend Radionicu bojanja minijatura. Ovoga puta na redu je bio patuljak u 75mm mjerilu.

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    Radionica se provodila kroz dva dana (cijeli vikend) i polaznici su bojali 75mm minijaturu patuljka. Fokus ovih predavanja bilo je bojenje raznih tekstura – od metala, ljudske kože, tekstila i kože (leather). U sklopu radionice korištene su akrilne boje na bazi vode. U tu svrhu, voditelj radionice, Ivan Knezović, izabrao je 75 mm minijaturu patuljka tvrtke Durgin Paint Forge, koju je sculptao Carlos Perez Bugedo. Predavanja su prilagođena tako da voditelj posveti jednako vrijeme svim polaznicima i može se prilagoditi svim kategorijama minijaturista (od početnika do malo naprednijih).

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    Radionica se odvijala na sljedeći način:
    Prvo, predavač sjedi za svojim stolom te objašnjava i demonstrira pojedini korak u bojanju minijature/makete na svojem primjerku. Njegov rad se preko kamere i projektora prikazuje na platnu što polaznici slušaju, gledaju, ali i postavljaju pitanja.
    Potom, polaznici sjedaju za svoje stolove i primjenjuju stečeno znanje. Voditelj kruži između polaznika i provjerava kako svakom polazniku ide. Na taj način, može se prilagoditi svakom polazniku ponaosob.

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    Radionica će uključivati sljedeće tematske cjeline:
    1. NMM (Non metallic metal)
    2. Refleksije boja iz okoline na metalu
    3. Čelik / zlato
    4. Bojanje lica (muškog)
    5. Dodavanje živosti na lice (filteri)
    6. Izvlačenje tekstura tkanine, metala i kože (leather)

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    POWERED BY: Carta MagicaFireball FigurinesDurgin Paint ForgePlaysupport

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    Ivan Knezović, 26th May 2026
  • We visited: Festival Svet v Malem 2026, Pivka, Slovenia
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    On May 23, 2026, we participated in the international plastic model making competition Festival Svet v Malem 2026 in Pivka, Slovenia.

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    The competition is traditionally held at the Military History Park in Pivka.

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    23. svibnja 2026. sudjelovali smo na međunarodnom natjecanju u plastičnom maketarstvu Festival Svet v Malem 2026 u Pivki u Sloveniji. 

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    Natjecanje se tradicionalno održava u Parku vojne povijesti u Pivki.

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    Krunoslav Belinić, 26th May 2026
  • We visited: KupKA 2026
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    On May 16, 2026, we participated in the international plastic model making competition KupKA held at the Museum of the Homeland War in Karlovac.

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    The competition was organized by the Slavoljub Penkala Modeling Club from Zagreb.

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    Thanks to the organizer for an interesting competition, to the judges for some medals, and especially to my colleagues from the Maketarski Club Novi Sad - IPMS Serbia for the medal!

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    16. svibnja 2026. sudjelovali smo na međunarodnom natjecanju u plastičnom maketarstvu KupKA održanom u Muzeju domovinskog rata u Karlovcu.

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    Natjecanje je organizirao Maketarski klub Slavoljub Penkala iz Zagreba

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    Hvala organizatoru na zanimljivom natjecanju, sucima na ponešto medalja, a pogotovo kolegama iz Maketarskog Kluba Novi Sad - IPMS Srbija na medalji!

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    Marko Paunović, 26th May 2026
  • Back to Basics Workshops in Gallery VN
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    In May 2026 we held our Back To Basics miniature painting workshops for the youngest in Gallery VN.

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    The workshops were completely FREE for all participants!

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    The Back to Basics method is a method of making models and miniatures that focuses on a fun process intended for younger ages, but everyone is welcome! In three separate sessions on Thursdays, participants (aged 7+) painted miniatures of their choice (knight, princess, king, wizard and barbarian). 

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    1st session: Painting miniatures of choice, Thursday, 07.05. - from 18:00 to 19:00

    2nd session: Painting a miniature of your choice, Thursday, 14.05. - from 18:00 to 19:00

    3rd session: Painting a miniature of your choice, Thursday, 21.05. - from 18:00 to 19:00

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    U svibnju 2026. održali smo naše Back To Basics radionice za najmlađe u Galeriji i čitaonici VN.

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    Radionice su bile BESPLATNE za sve polaznike!

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    Back to Basics metoda je metoda izrade maketa i minijatura kojoj je fokus na zabavnom procesu namjenjenom mlađim uzrastima, ali svi su dobrodošli! U tri zasebna termina četvrtkom, polaznici (od 7+) su bojali minijature po izboru (vitez, princeza, kralj, čarobnjak i barbarin).

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    1. termin: Bojenje minijature po izboru, četvrtak, 07.05. - od 18:00 do 19:00

    2. termin: Bojenje minijature po izboru, četvrtak, 14.05. - od 18:00 do 19:00

    3. termin: Bojenje minijature po izboru, četvrtak, 21.05. - od 18:00 do 19:00

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    Krunoslav Belinić, 26th May 2026
  • Painting Faces at Tabletop Level
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    In this short article, I will describe two ways to paint faces on a so-called tabletop standard. The text follows two versions of the painting. One will use a store-bought wash, and in the second, slightly less contrasting one, I will use a wash that I got from regular paint. This way, the reader can choose which method suits them better.

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    The first step is to dye the base color.

    Left: Since I'm going to use a store-bought wash in this example, I decided to go for a darker shade of skin tone.

    Right: In this example, I'm going to use the color as a base for the wash, so I decided to go for a slightly lighter skin tone - and therefore a lighter base color.

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    The next step is to apply the wash.

    Left: I use a regular, store-bought Reikkland Fleshshade wash.

    Right: On a drop of the darker skin tone, I add two drops of Lahmian Medium and a drop or two of water. This creates my own wash, which I apply similarly to the example on the left.

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    Then comes the first highlight.

    Left: I apply the base color to the raised parts of the face and thus get the first highlight.

    Right: Just like in the example on the left, I use the base color as the first highlight.

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    Then the second highlight.

    Left: I get the second highlight by mixing the base color with a lighter shade.

    Right: I follow the same process as on the left, with the caveat that I never use pure white to mix the highlight, it's always an off white – with a minimal amount of some pigment.

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    The penultimate step is to outline the eyes.

    Left: This step is identical in both cases.

    Right: I outline the eyes with some off-white paint (to make my life easier, it's usually two lines).

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    The last step is to add shadows around the mouth and eyes.

    Left: In this case, you can use a darker wash like Nuln Oil or Druchi Purple.

    Right: I mixed black and purple and added two drops of Lahmian Medium and a drop or two of water to create a darker wash, then applied the mixture to the eye sockets, making sure not to get the wash on the previously drawn eyes.

    And the last thing is drawing the pupils – just vertical lines of dark/black color against the horizontal light lines for the eyes.

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    U ovom kratkom članku, opisat ću dva načina za bojanje lica na takozvanom tabletop standardu. Tekst prati dvije verzije bojanja. Jedna će koristiti kupovni wash, a u drugoj, malo manje kontrastnoj koristit ću wash kojeg sam dobio iz obične boje. Na taj način, čitatelj može izabrati koji način mu više odgovara.

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    Prvi korak je bojanje u osnovnu boju.

    Lijevo: s obzirom da ću na ovom primjeru koristiti kupovni wash, odlučio sam se za tamniju nijansu boje kože.

    Desno: u ovom primjeru koristit ću boju kao osnovu za wash, tako da sam se odlučio za malo svjetliju nijansu kože – a samim time i svjetliju osnovnu boju.

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    Sljedeći korak je stavljanje wash-a.

    Lijevo: Koristim običan, kupovni Reikkland Fleshshade wash.

    Desno: Na kap tamnije nijanse boje kože stavljam dvije kapljice Lahmian Mediuma i kap do dvije vode. Na taj način dobivam vlastiti wash kojeg nanosim slično kao i na lijevom primjeru.

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    Zatim ide prvi highlight.

    Lijevo: Nanosim na izdignute dijelove lica osnovnu boju i na taj način dobivam prvi highlight.

    Desno: Jednako kao i u lijevom primjeru, kao prvi highlight koristim osnovnu boju.

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    Potom drugi highlight.

    Lijevo: Drugi highlight dobivam mješajući osnovnu boju s nekom svjetlijom nijansom.

    Desno: Pratim isti proces kao i lijevo, uz napomenu da nikada ne koristim čistu bijelu boju za miješanje highlighta, uvijek je to neki off white – s minimalnom količinom nekog pigmenta.

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    Predzadnji korak je iscrtavanje obrisa očiju.

    Lijevo: Ovaj korak je identičan u oba slučaja.

    Desno: Nekom off white bojom iscrtam obrise očiju (da si olakšam život, to su najčešće dvije crtice).

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    Zadnji korak je dodavanje sjena oko ustiju i očiju.

    Lijevo: U ovom slučaju, možete koristiti tamniji wash poput Nuln Oil ili Druchi Purple.

    Desno: Pomiješao sam crnu i ljubičastu boju te dodao kap dvije Lahmian Mediuma i kad do dvije vode da dobijem tamniji wash te smjesu nanio u očne šupljine pazeći da wash ne dođe na prethodno iscrtane oči.

    I zadnja stvar je ucrtavanje zjenica – samo okomite crtice tamne/crne boje u odnosu na horizontalne svijetle crte za oči.

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    Marko Paunović, 20th May 2026

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