UMS "Agram" : Building a modular river < Articles < Hobby

Building a modular river

Marko Paunović, 11th September 2020

If you've been following my articles about building terrain in previous articles on this site, you'll know that I've slowly been making terrain for my Wild West table for Malifaux. I've already built a church with a graveyard, an undertaker's on a hilltop, a minehead entrance, a watertower and in the last issue I've covered the building process of modular railroad tracks. This time, I decided to do a modular river to span the length of the standard Malifaux table.

Idea and planning

As always, planning is important, in some cases even vital part of the design process so it's always good to prepare yourself for the build. Good preparation not only saves money, but it also saves time. As I mentioned above, in this issue I'll be discussing how to build a modular river. Most of the rivers for tabletop look fake because people tend to make two banks with the river in the middle. This in itself is not bad, however, when placed on a flat tabletop, it will look more like a man made canal than a proper river. This had me thinking and I've come up with a simple solution. I decided to make the river modules about 30 x 30 cm (12'' x 12'') out of 2 cm thick HD styrofoam. This way, I'll have a part of the table at an elevated level with enough space to place some of the already built terrain. But most importantly the river won't look so much like a man made canal placed on top of the tabletop.

This in turn presented additional problems. Having such a river might provide some difficulties during gaming. How to get across to the other side, lots of free space with long lines of sight. Therefore, I decided that each of the three modules would have a river crossing. In order to make it as diverse as possible, I've decided to make one wooden pedestrian bridge, one railroad bridge (as I had some tracks left over) and one river crossing over shallows.

In fact, when I thought of the shallow crossing, it dawned on me that the overall setting on my table isn't what you normally see with lots of green colours and vegetation. It's almost desert like. That's the reason I decided to make the river almost dried up. (I will however, explain how to make the modules if you wish to have a full body of water inside your riverbed).

Materials and tools

After the rough sketch, I could make a definite list of materials and tools needed for this project. Those are as follows:
- roughly 10cm 2 mm balsa wood plank (they come in 10 x 100 cm planks)
- roughly 10cm of 5mm balsa wood plank (they also come in 10 x 100 cm planks)
- about half a sheet of 2cm thick HD styrofoam (50x100cm)
- about 30 x 30 cm of 5mm thick MDF
- superglue
- PVA glue
- 0,5 kg of DAS air drying clay
- gravel (four sizes)
- static grass / tufts
- AK Interactive Light and Dry Crackle Effect
- sanding paper (1 sheet)
- masking tape
- Gedeo Crystal Resin
- Pebeo Vitrail Colour – Greengold
- railroad tracks (toy)

The tools needed are:
- scalpel blade
- marker pen
- scissors
- modelling saw
- brushes – various sizes – for painting/washing and for drybrushing
- hot wire cutter

* Like in previous issues, I used my Proxxon table mounted circular saw, jigsaw on the MDF to cut the river base and cut the tracks to size.

Building the base

Having aquired all of the materials, using my scalpel blade, I first cut the three 30 x 30 cm modules from HD styrofoam. I then cut them in half with one side being about 20 cm wide and the other 10 cm. It was then time to draw the shape of the base of the riverbed on a piece of 5 mm thick MDF. If you have an irregularly shaped piece (like I had) it's wise to try different ways of placing your 10 x 30 cm riverbed modules to find the easiest way to cut the MDF. If you look carefull, you'll notice both red and green lines on my piece of MDF. In the end I cut the MDF along the green lines as it saved me a couple of passes with my jigsaw.

When both the HD styrofoam and MDF parts were cut, I made a mock assembly to find a suitable place to put my railroad tracks (as I had no straight lines, only curved). When I was satisfied with the layout, I cut the last piece of the track using my table mounted circular saw. If you don't own one, same can be done with either a scalpel blade or a modeller's saw.

When the railroad was cut, it was time to design the river banks. Placing the three pieces that make one module (small and large HD styrofoam part with MDF river bed in the middle), I drew the outline of the river bank using my marker pen. I made sure that the edges of the modules on both sides were exactly the same dimension. This would ensure that the modules can be placed in any formation. Following the drawn lines as closely as possible with my sclapel blade, I cut the embankments. It was now time to try to fit the MDF river bed to the remaining two parts. Again, using my marker pen, I marked 5mm from the bottom side of the styrofoam board and exactly 18 cm from the back of the larger and 6 cm from the smaller styrofoam piece. I cut along the lines and removed the excess material. This would ensure that my MDF riverbed would snuggly fit the HD styrofoam parts of each module.

Before assembly, I had to cut the surfaces of the embankments. I used my electric hot wire cutter. Hot wire cutter can come in several forms and power outputs. The one I have is the cheapest out there, powered by two AA batteries. How it works? The electricity from the batteries heats up the wire that then melts the styrofoam performing a perfect straight cut. However, as it heats the wire elongates so you should take into account that fact when fixing the wire to the cutter. It is quite cumbersome to operate in small, confined places which is the reason I used it before assembling the river modules.

When the embankments were formed, I turned the two HD styrofoam pieced over, generously poured some PVA glue and placed the MDF river bed in its place. Using my finger, I removed the excess PVA glue and with some 2 cm thick masking tape, I covered the joints between HD styrofoam and the MDF ensuring I had a really hard bond. Also, covering the joints with tape, enables you to procede with the build as it prevents the PVA glue from leaking. PVA glue normally takes up to 6 hours to fully cure.

With the tape in place, I turned over the tree modules and I built up some volume using DAS air drying clay. I made sure I had some clay on every edge of the module. When I add texture, this will ensure that the resin remain inside my module. I've already mentioned that I want the river to be half dried-up so this will actually help with the build as well as look good.

Texturing

At this point, I was nearing the end of the construction and all that had to be done before the painting was to add texture to the base. In order for the grooves that were cut with the hot wire cutter remain undamaged after undercoating (undercoat sprey burns styrofoam so it needs to be protected), I decided to cover those surfaces with a cote of pure PVA first. While it was drying, I took out all the gravel I was to use on this project: - chinchilla sand – smallest grain - basing grit in two sizes - chinchilla sand – largest grain

Once the PVA protection was dry, I smeared more wattered-down PVA on the vertical surfaces and sprinkled some smallest grain chinchilla sand. I then repeated the PVA smearing process on the roads and river shallows. Here, however, I first sprinkled over some largest grain gravel, next I sprinkeld some Basing Grit and to finish I poured over the smallest grain chinchilla sand. If you sprinkle gently and with care you can end up with nice variations in texture – for instance the middle of the dirt road usually has some larger stones as opposed to the sides of it. When the road was dry, I repeated the process with the rest of the base, sprinkling the two largest grains over the ground part. Inisde the riverbed, I carefully placed the largest gravel where the riverbed would be dry, and intentionally left the smaller grain where the water effect would be placed.

When I tackled the module with the railroad tracks, I first covered the route of the tracks with pure PVA glue to make sure the railorad tracks would stick. Then I sprinkled some roughest grain gravel along the route and in between the tracks.

You will notice that all of the modules have some parts of the modules without sand (with only PVA over them). This part of the modules would be covered with AK Interactive Light and Dry Crackle Effect paste to create the image of a dried up desert. But more about that a bit later on in this article.

Making the bridge structure

Before undercoating, there was only one more thing to do – the wooden pedestrian bridge. Using a 4,5 x 8,5 cm piece of 5mm thick balsa wood I made the body of the bridge. The dimensions I used are a bit odd, but it's only because the bridge was made to measure. I measured the width of the road and the span of the river and came up with those numbers. The 4,5 cm wide bridge would however accommodate every miniature base for Malifaux. When the body was cut, using a wooden stick, I made grooves across the bridge that would make up planking. Then, using 2 mm thick balsa wood, I made several supports for the bridge and glued them using super glue. Before gluing the bridge to the base, I undercoated the underside of the bridge as well as the river bank and river bed under the bridge to make my job easier later on.

Painting

First job when painting is to undecoat everything. This will help with the shading and the overall 3D effect of the entire terrain piece. Wanting all my terrain to fit one theme (and consequently one tabletop) it was only natural I use the same colours and colour scheme as on the earlier terrain. Therefore once again I used Pebeo Deco color range. I used Brown (29) for the basecoat and continued drybrushing with Ocre (51). Lighter shades were done with a 50:50 mixture of Ocre (51) and White (41). The final highlight was done with Antique White (69). The road and the river shallows were first basecoated with Brown (29) then heavily drybrushed with Ocre (51) and a 50:50 mixture of Ocre (51) and White (41). The last two highlights were Antique White (69) and pure White (41). This way, I had a visual difference between the normal groundwork and the worn out road.

The bridge and the wooden parts of the railorad tracks were painted by drybrushing first using a 50:50 mixture of Black (55) and Grey (54). Next layer was pure Grey (54) and the finishing highlight was Ash Brown (70). I was not quite satisfied with the result, so I added another highlight of pure White (41). The metal tracks were then painted pure metal (I used Citadel's Runefang Steel). When it was dry, as was the case in the last issue, I covered the metal bits with Model Mates' Rust Effect.

With the basic painting done, you'll have noticed the large patches without texture where pure PVA was placed in the texturing phase. As I promised before, I covered this parts using AK Interactive Light and Dry Crackle Effect. In some places I left only a thin layer, while in some I put it on generously and left it to dry. When it was dry, the effect of dried earth was created.

Vegetation

After the painting, it was time to add the vegetation to the base. Normaly, at this point, I'd add some trees (in the case of this Malifaux build, pine trees to be more exact). However, here I decided not to plant them as this way, the storage would be much, much simpler. And anyway, my intention is to make a lot of smaller terrain pieces (like small pine forest patches, some crates and other debris later on – maybe even in the next issue). With the trees out of the way, I added some static grass. I made a mixture using several green, brown, yellow and black shades of static grass and when I was satisfied with the end product, I glued it in random patches throughout the modules. One thing I made sure of is that I put static grass over any and all of the remaining holes where the black undercoat melted the HD styrofoam in order to hide the unintentional mistake. Once the static grass was in place, I applied several shades of different tufts. Again, as in the former articles, I used tufts made by a company called Gamer's Grass.

Working with resin

The water on the tabletop terrain can be simulated in many ways. Some are better and more realistic, while some are simpler but less believable. In my experience, I've come across six ways of reproducing water. In the end I'll focus on one method that in my opinion gives the most faithful reproduction of water.

First method is to texture the surface using PVA glue and sand (which is an especially good method for streams) and then paint it using long strokes of greenish brownish tint. After the paint dries coat it with a thick layer of marine varnish or some other form of gloss cote.

The most primitive method is using water itself. Leaking and not having depth in artificial light are the biggest drawbacks apart from evaporation and tendecy to grow life.

The third option is using glass. Make a riverbed like I explained earlier and put a glass surface over it. For extra effect you can tint it on the bottom. However, it is difficult to shape, so that it is not worth the effort.

The fourth method is using plexiglas. Same principles apply here as in the previous method. It is relatively easy to cut and is good for flat and calm water. I've seen it used in railroad models extensively and while both of these methods can look good on static displays such as railroad model tables and such, on smaller pieces of terrain (like used on tabletop) it is better to avoid these two methods.

The fifth method to recreate water is using marine varnish. Pouring in numerous layers means it takes a lot of time to finish. And still you will not get much depth in your river/body of water. It is therefore suitable for small wetlands or small ponds and puddles on various terrains. As with the first method, work in well-ventilated preferably open areas.

The final method, and also the most realistic, is the usage of resins. Are usually two-component mixtures (one is resin, the other a hardener). They are a really good way of creating water, both still and running. Good depth can be achieved and they can be tinted with special colors so that you can get the shade of water you need. A few tips for working with resin: - Protect your hands - wear gloves - Work in well ventilated areas - Have thinner handy to clean up if your pours outside the wanted space - Stir in plastic cups - When it is poured, drill the bottom of the glass so that Resin can slowly leak to avoid creating air bubbles

There are numerous versions of resin available at the market today but I’ll name a few products I use.

First, two part resin called Crystal Resin which is made by a company called Gedeo. It comes in two various sizes (300 ml and 750 ml), and can also be bought predyed. It’s main advantage over other products out there is that it is mixed in 2:1 ratio (resin : hardener), unlike most products who mix in 97:3 (or similar) ratio. Because of the easy way to calculate the ratio, this enables me to use quantities I need and does not force me to use the whole package at once. It has a drying time of 24 hours.

Second, Vallejo Still Water which is an awesome one part resin. It does not require mixing and can be dyed using Vallejo colours. It comes in a 200 ml bottle and is great for small ponds on your bases.

The third kind I use is Vallejo Water Effects (Extra Heavy Gel). It comes in various colours, but I use the transparent one. It is a white paste with the consistency similar to that of a tooth paste that dries clear. It is great for modeling ripple effects or waves on your water surfaces.

Back to the practical application. For this build, I chose Gedeo Crystal Resin. I first mixed a batch of resin and hardener (2:1 ratio as per instructions). Once I got a murky consistency, I poured in some Pebeo Vitrail Greengold Colour. Using a stirrer, I mixed it evenly throughout the resin. When I was satisfied with the colour, I carefully poured the resin inside the modules making sure I do not drip where I'm not supposed to. I left it to dry for 24 hours and my modular river was done!

How to make full-bodied river modules?

Simple. Follow the steps described earlier up to the point of pouring in the resin. Before I could add resin into the riverbed, you need to make dams to prevent the resin from leaking. Easiest way is to use strips of plastic foil gently glued to the sides of each module using superglue. Then use Vallejo Extra Heavy Gel to seal the joints between the modules and the plastic foils on the inside of the riverbed. Leave it to dry thoroughly, day or two if neccesary. Once dry, covered the plastic foil on the inside with some cooking oil to prevent it from sticking to the resin. Then place all the modules next to each other and pour in the coloured resin of your choice into each of the modules making sure that the level of the river in each module was the same. Leave it to dry for 24 hours, at least. Also, if you want to have a gradual transition of the colour in your river (pure resin on top with the darkest colour in the bottom), use several layers starting, obviously with the darkest colour allowing each layer to fully cure. Once the resin is dry, remove the plastic foil dams and there you have it – river done. To add some ripples and waves, you can use Vallejo Extra Heavy Gel when the resin is dry.

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MARIO: „Hugo the tiny, first captain of the Crow knights was maybe born small, but that didn't stop him from having great dreams. After the taming of the swamp bird, he now reigns over his underlings in despite of the jokes the warband tells of the "Tiny stout". He follows Boletus on his quest, but always biding his time for an inevitable coup. The model is based on a "fat knight" 3D print, which is scaled to around 30-ish%. The bird is a plastic stork toy with an added head from a toy pteranodon a friend found on a floor of a Con in Zagreb. The toilet is just a natural progression of the idea.

Followers of the cult of the roaming Proboscis and Boletus' vision. They, along with the lesser fodder, believe in staying alive only by the power of the beast of the swamps. So they listen to Boletus when he said to stay within it's shade at all costs, lest they fall behind and starve. I wanted to make a warband of wandering knights, with all their stuff on them, and the narrative of them trailing an "always moving" beast was perfect. The banners in my warband often represent not only the colors of the cult, but also their ever-moving lifestyle. Brutes made from Perry's foot knights and official torsos from Max.

Set upon his rotting steed, Boletus leads the warband, even though no one remembers how it started. It seems he and the monster were always there, the crows and scavengers alike just trailing the monster's wake. He almost never speaks, and even when he does, it's mostly a whisper. Sometimes it even seems as if the monster listens to him. The mount is a childrens toy baby giraffe, with legs reposed a bit and a mushroom for a head (I got heavily inspired by the official art from the mercenary book). And the rider is a mix of Perry minis limbs and an official torso print. I did a bad job with GS blending and tried to hide it with it looking like the skin falls off, I think it looks good (all considered).

The great Proboscis! The beast's call can be heard through the marshes, at night or day. It seldom rests, and it is seldom peaceful. The Proboscis is called many things, but none know from where it came. Boletus says that it is thawed from ancient ice and corrupted after the apocalypse, but some among the company doubt these words. Yet all in the warband know that it is the beast that keeps them fed, if they stay from it's mouth and preferably out of it's sight. The leftovers of it's meals feed them, and they follow it wherever it roams. This creature is a 3D print of a Platybelodon, to which I added fur, 4 additional trunks, dead trees and mud. I liked the idea of a sassy snob which would get comfortable on it's back, and am glad it turned out well in the end. Really satisfied with this model, and it performed admirably in my battles(when it didn't die due to my horrible dice rolls).

Knights of the Beet. Boletus hired these bastards recently, to help with some "muscle", after the beast decided the last horsemen the had were a tasty snack. He didn't know of their own agenda though. As the followers of the Beet cult, they are already converting some of the party to their vegetal religion. For they know that with time (and luck), all in the "ever marching" warband will march to the Beet. The idea for these horsemen was the first to come up when I decided to represent them all camping and living on the go. This is, in a way, a medieval parody of the way cyclists live when bikepacking - carrying all of their stuff on horses, drying the clothes on the sun etc. The models are Perry mounted men-at-arms with added official turnip torsos.“

SEBASTIAN: „These are the Fiber-nacci’s Fallow Forshippers - the 0.618th. My (finally) painted Turnip28 army. Done in the typical muddy shades of brown for Cist. Tried to give some color with their shells while still keeping the earthy, realistic tones. Knights of Shellwood cult, the sluggish Snail Knight, the shooty Snail Gunner, the wormy Toff and the rest of this empty-shelled army slumped their way into Hren28!“

ANTONI: „Starting off with my hollow, stuffed, blackpowder Fodder and my ruthless Toff, suzerain Wort (who got himself trampled by bastards after his unit abandoned him, and later drowned). I went with The Feast of Charybdis, worshipping the holy raddish (Wort only got the job because he looks like one). Huge thanks to everyone involed in HREN28 for making it such a magical experience!

The very marrow of my cult: The Scuttlers! They are extremely shy, hiding in their citadel atop a walking island. While the crab itself is a toy, the tower and the barnacles are sculpted/kitbashed (and then coated with texture paste and mud). The Citadel's handler is the genius Lord Bum, a slightly-larger-than-average goose and a master strategist. His constant triangulations enable the crab to rise from the silt exactly where it is needed ...30% of the time.

My most dangerous and elite turnip unit: The Cannonards Stump Gun. The danger they pose is mostly directed towards themselves, as they've blown up each time I have deployed them. No matter, the thrill of rolling 3d6 attacks more than makes up for the head-losing chaos.“

Domagoj: „I had a blast painting my mushroom rootlings, led by snobs finally pulled out the big pile of unpainted models - and I could not have imagined a better place to bring my friends gifts to have some fun! I called it the Alemakers legacy - based on mushrooms that are fermenting sweet mashes into alcohol. The core of the band is two units of blackbowder mushroom rootlings led by Lord Fermi, kindly gifted by @gardensofhecate (and thank u for resparking my interest in the hobby), looking for new ways to spread their spores.

The second noble to join the fray was Baron Colguts, lover of rootbeer, leading a feisty troupe of rootlings into battle - his oversized sword replacing his pistol since they have about the same range. Got this mini as a total surprise from @colecifer_xxviii who surprised me how spontaneous and kind hobbyists can be.

The third and final snob is the birdfrog arrived from @uollas_uolsh who is cooler than cool - hope he likes his model representing the key ingrident in beer making! Sir Hops with the big heavy frog cannon - for how can u make beer without adding hops?“

For more photos check our social networks!

And please follow our artists:

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Proteklih mjeseci naša ekipa se spremala za nastup na Turnip28 turniru pod nazivom H.R.E.N.28 u Sloveniji u srpnju. S obzirom da je event uspješno održan, ostali smo vam dužni fotografije vojski koje su Mario, Domagoj, Seb i Antoni slagali, a mi smo ih pratili na njihovom putu!

MARIO: „Hugo, sićušni, prvi kapetan Vitezova Vrana, možda se rodio malen, ali to ga nije spriječilo da ima velike snove. Nakon što je pripitomio močvarnu pticu, sada vlada svojim podređenima unatoč šalama koje ratna družina priča o "Sitnom stoutu". Prati Boletusa na njegovoj potrazi, ali uvijek čeka svoj trenutak za neizbježan udarac. Model se temelji na 3D printu "debelog viteza", koji je skaliran na oko 30%. Ptica je plastična igračka rode s dodanom glavom igračke pteranodona koju je prijatelj pronašao na podu Cona u Zagrebu. WC je samo prirodan nastavak ideje.

Sljedbenici kulta lutajućeg Proboscisa i Boletusove vizije. Oni, zajedno s manjim životinjama, vjeruju u preživljavanje samo snagom zvijeri iz močvara. Stoga slušaju Boletusa kada im je rekao da pod svaku cijenu ostanu u njegovoj sjeni, da ne zaostanu i ne umru od gladi. Htio sam napraviti ratnu družinu lutajućih vitezova, sa svim njihovim stvarima na sebi, a priča o njima kako prate "stalno pokretnu" zvijer bila je savršena. Zastave u mojoj ratnoj družini često predstavljaju ne samo boje kulta, već i njihov stalno pokretni način života. Zvijeri napravljene od Perryjevih pješačkih vitezova i službenih torza od Maxa.

Jašući na svom trulom konju, Boletus predvodi ratnu družinu, iako se nitko ne sjeća kako je sve počelo. Čini se da su on i čudovište oduvijek bili tamo, vrane i strvinari podjednako su samo pratili trag čudovišta. Gotovo nikad ne govori, a čak i kad govori, uglavnom je to šapat. Ponekad se čak čini kao da ga čudovište sluša. Konj je dječja igračka žirafa, s malo uvučenim nogama i gljivom umjesto glave (jako sam se inspirirao službenim crtežima iz knjige o plaćenicima). A jahač je mješavina Perryjevih minijaturnih udova i službenog otiska torza. Loše sam napravio posao s GS blendingom i pokušao sam to sakriti tako da izgleda kao da koža otpada, mislim da izgleda dobro (sve u svemu).

Veliki Proboscis! Zov zvijeri može se čuti kroz močvare, noću ili danju. Rijetko se odmara i rijetko je miran. Proboscis se naziva mnogim imenima, ali nitko ne zna odakle dolazi. Vrganj kaže da se odmrznuo od drevnog leda i iskvario nakon apokalipse, ali neki među društvom sumnjaju u te riječi. Pa ipak, svi u ratnoj družini znaju da ih zvijer hrani, ako ostanu podalje od njezinih usta i po mogućnosti izvan njezina vidokruga. Ostaci njezinih obroka ih hrane i slijede je gdje god luta. Ovo stvorenje je 3D print Platybelodona, kojem sam dodao krzno, 4 dodatna debla, mrtva stabla i blato. Svidjela mi se ideja drskog snoba koji bi se udobno smjestio na njegova leđa i drago mi je da je na kraju dobro ispalo. Jako sam zadovoljan ovim modelom i izvrsno se pokazao u mojim bitkama (kada nije uginuo zbog mog užasnog bacanja kockica).

Vitezovi Repe. Boletus je nedavno unajmio ove gadove da pomognu s malo "mišića", nakon što je zvijer odlučila da su posljednji konjanici koje su imali ukusan zalogaj. Međutim, nije znao za njihove vlastite namjere. Kao sljedbenici kulta Repe, već preobraćuju dio skupine u svoju vegetarijansku religiju. Jer znaju da će s vremenom (i srećom) svi u "vječno marširajućem" ratnom odredu marširati do Repe. Ideja za ove konjanike prva se pojavila kada sam odlučio prikazati ih sve kako kampiraju i žive u pokretu. Ovo je, na neki način, srednjovjekovna parodija načina na koji biciklisti žive kada se bicikliraju - nose sve svoje stvari na konjima, suše odjeću na suncu itd. Modeli su Perryjevi jahači s dodanim službenim torzovima od repe.“

SEBASTIAN: „Ovo su Fiber-naccijevi Fallow Forshippers - 0.618. Moja (konačno) obojana vojska za Turnip28. Napravljena u tipičnim blatnjavim nijansama smeđe za Cist. Pokušao sam dati malo boje njihovim oklopima, a da pritom zadržim zemljane, realistične tonove. Vitezovi kulta Školjkaste šume, tromi Puž Vitez, Puž Topnik koji puca, crvljivi Toff i ostatak ove vojske s praznim oklopima utonuli su u Hren28.“

ANTONI: „Počevši s mojim šupljim, prepariranim, crnim barutom Fodderom i mojim nemilosrdnim Toffom, suzerainom Wortom (kojeg su gadovi pregazili nakon što ga je njegova jedinica napustila, a kasnije se i utopio). Odlučio sam se za Gozbu Haribde, štovanje svete rotkvice (Wort je dobio posao samo zato što i sam tako izgleda). Veliko hvala svima koji su sudjelovali u HREN28 što su ovo iskustvo učinili tako čarobnim!

Sama srž mog kulta: Potapači! Iznimno su sramežljivi i skrivaju se u svojoj citadeli na vrhu otoka za hodanje. Dok je sam rak igračka, toranj i školjke su oblikovani/obrađeni (a zatim premazani teksturnom pastom i blatom). Citadelom upravlja genijalni Lord Bum, guska nešto veća od prosjeka i majstor strateg. Njegove stalne triangulacije omogućuju raku da se izdigne iz mulja točno tamo gdje je potrebno... 30% vremena.

Moja najopasnija i najelitna jedinica za repu: Topnički panj. Opasnost koju predstavljaju uglavnom je usmjerena prema njima samima, jer su eksplodirali svaki put kad bih ih rasporedio. Nema veze, uzbuđenje bacanja 3d6 napada više nego nadoknađuje kaos od kojeg gubite glavu.“

Domagoj: „Super sam se zabavio bojajući svoje korijene gljiva, predvođen snobovima, konačno sam izvukao veliku hrpu neobojenih modela - i nisam mogao zamisliti bolje mjesto za donijeti poklone prijateljima da se malo zabave! Nazvao sam to Alemakersovo nasljeđe - temeljeno na gljivama koje fermentiraju slatke kaše u alkohol. Jezgru benda čine dvije jedinice korijena crnih gljiva predvođenih Lordom Fermijem, ljubazno darovanih od @gardensofhecate (i hvala vam što ste ponovno probudili moj interes za hobi), tražeći nove načine širenja svojih spora.

Drugi plemić koji se pridružio borbi bio je baron Colguts, ljubitelj rootbeera, koji je u bitku predvodio žestoku skupinu rootlinga - njegov predimenzionirani mač zamijenio je pištolj budući da imaju otprilike isti domet. Ovaj minijaturni mač dobio sam kao potpuno iznenađenje od @colecifer_xxviii koji me iznenadio koliko spontani i ljubazni hobisti mogu biti.

Treći i posljednji snob je ptica-žaba stigla od @uollas_uolsh koja je super kul - nadam se da mu se sviđa njegov model koji predstavlja ključni sastojak u proizvodnji piva! Sir Hops s velikim teškim žabljim topom - jer kako možete napraviti pivo bez dodavanja hmelja?“

Za više fotografija bolje rezolucije zapratite naše socijalne mreže.

Molimo vas da zapratite i naše umjetnike:

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Marko Paunović, 6th August 2025

WE TOOK PART IN: H.r.e.n.28 in Slovenia

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Our guys have returned from a successful trip to Medvode in Slovenija where they attended H.r.e.n.28 international invitational event organised by our friends at AmuletD20.

This is a short report consisting of their photos and some thoughts about the event.

MARIO: “ I was delighted with the imagination, effort and goodwill of the organizers. I met new and familiar good people, I think that is the best part of such events. Conversations with artistic passion are always inspiring and I will remember them for a long time. The game itself is very fun (I came with very little experience) and with the help of other players I think I picked up a lot. The terrains and scenarios are the stars of the event with their diversity, and the icing on the cake was the Sunday game Dredge28 designed by Vane, which turned out to be very chaotic and fun (I guess I am a "cannon guy", when it comes to ships). “

ANTONI: “ As we waited outside the club entrance, I don't think any of us had any idea what was in store for us: atmospheric music and lighting, floor-to-ceiling fog, and six gorgeous, made-from-scratch tables. The table allocation system itself went much smoother than I expected - each of us was given a map with our own route through the tables (the first of three games is on the Wall of Teeth table, etc.) so there was never any confusion about who we were playing the next game with and where, since competitiveness and winning were not the focus. When I found out that the table scenarios changed from game to game, I was even more thrilled; there were more scenarios than players! No pair of opponents had the same experience, even if they were playing at the same table. Long breaks between games and a constant flow of coffee allowed us to share unique impressions and there was no stress if someone's game dragged on. As for the company, food and drinks, I take my hat off to the entire AmuletD20 team who entertained us, fed us and made the event possible! 10/10 “

SEBASTIAN: "I’ll never forget the moment we all entered the Amulet d20 space on Saturday morning, ready to begin the event. It was an amazing experience when they opened their doors, and the players got to see what the organisers had prepared for us. Atmospheric ligthing illuminating the whole space, omnious soundscapes coming from the speakers and beautiful boards spread throughout - inspiring, well thought-out boards, with lots of variety, specific lore and flavor, and of course all very playable. I played The Big Fucking Cannon board where Luka shot me to pieces at the end of round 3, The Great Wall of Teeth where the Giant Tongue tabled me (with Dorian’s help of course, particularly his Stump Gun) and Greater Ptui where by killing Vitek’s rootling too close to the glorious hole, his virgin sacrifice was accepted and I lost the game in less than 10 minutes. Overall had a blast, and the Dredge Race on Sunday was exactly as we had hoped once Vane finally let us in on the secret game he had created for the event - chaotic, fun, weird, difficult and flavorful. Huge credit to the organisers for pulling together such a great event, and I truly hope I’ll get to attend something as great as this in the future."

For more photos in better resolution, visit our social pages.

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Naši dečki su se vratili s uspješnog putovanja u Medvode u Sloveniji gdje su prisustvovali međunarodnom pozivnom događaju H.r.e.n.28 koji su organizirali naši prijatelji iz AmuletD20.

Ovo je kratki izvještaj koji se sastoji od fotografija i nekih njihovih misli o događaju.

MARIO: “ Bio sam oduševljen sa maštovitosti, trudom i dobrom voljom organizatora. Upoznao sam nove, i sreo poznate dobre ljude, smatram da je to najbolji dio ovakvih događanja. Razgovori sa umjetnickim žarom su uvijek inspirativni i pamtit ću ih dugo. Sama igra je vrlo zabavna (došao sam s jako malo iskustva) i uz pomoć ostalih igrača mislim da sam pohvatao puno toga. Tereni i scenariji su zvijezde događaja sa svojom raznolikoati, a ŝlag na kraju je bila nedjeljna igra Dredge28 koju je osmislio Vane, koja je ispala jako kaotična i zabavna (izgleda da sam "cannon guy", što se tiče brodova ) “

ANTONI: “ Dok smo čekali pred ulazom u klub vjerujem da nitko od nas nije imao ni približnu predodžbu onoga što nas je čekalo: atmosferična glazba i osvjetljenje, magla od poda do stropa i šest krasnih, od nule izrađenih stolova. Sam sustav raspodjele po stolovima tekao je mnogo glađe nego što sam očekivao - svatko od nas dobio je mapu s vlastitim putem po stolovima (prva od tri igre je na Wall of Teeth stolu itd.) tako da nikad nije bilo nedoumice oko toga s kim igramo sljedeću igru i gdje, s obzirom da kompetitivnost i pobjeda nisu bili fokus. Kad sam saznao da se scenariji po stolovima mijenjaju od igre do igre bio sam još više oduševljen; bilo je više scenarija nego igrača! Nijedan par protivnika nije imao isto iskustvo makar igrali na istom stolu. Duže pauze između igara i konstantan priljev kave omogućili su nam da podijelimo jedinstvene dojmove i da nema stresa ukoliko se nečija igra odužila. Što se tiče društva, hrane i pića, skidam kapu cijeloj AmuletD20 ekipi koja nas je zabavljala, hranila i omogućila sam event! 10/10 “

SEBASTIAN: "Nikada neću zaboraviti trenutak kada smo svi u subotu ujutro ušli u prostor AmuletD20, spremni za početak događaja. Bilo je to nevjerojatno iskustvo kada su otvorili svoja vrata, a igrači su mogli vidjeti što su nam organizatori pripremili. Atmosferična rasvjeta obasjavala je cijeli prostor, svemogući zvučni pejzaži dolazili su iz zvučnika i prekrasne ploče koje su se bile posvuda - inspirativne, dobro osmišljene ploče, s puno raznolikosti, specifičnom pričom i okusom, i naravno sve vrlo igrivo. Igrao sam na ploči The Big Fucking Cannon gdje me Luka na kraju 3. runde upucao na komadiće, The Great Wall of Teeth gdje me je Divovski jezik izbacio na stol (uz Dorianovu pomoć, naravno, posebno njegov Stump Gun) i Greater Ptui gdje je, ubivši Vitekovog rootlinga preblizu slavnoj rupi, njegova žrtva djevice bila prihvaćena i izgubio sam igru za manje od 10 minuta. Sveukupno, bilo je odlično, a Dredge Race u nedjelju bio je točno onakav kakav smo se nadali kada nas je Vane konačno pustio u tajnu igru koju je stvorio za događaj - kaotičan, zabavan, čudn, težak. Velike pohvale organizatorima što su organizirali tako sjajan događaj i iskreno se nadam da ću u budućnosti imati priliku prisustvovati nečemu ovako sjajnom."

Više fotografija u boljoj rezoluciji možete pogledati na našim socijalnim mrežama.

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Krunoslav Belinić, 6th August 2025

Agram Group Build #Project2 – part 4.

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	From 2021, the Association also organizes group projects for its members in which several members participate at once. The program called Agram Group Build was created after our members discussed joint projects on Wednesdays and how it would be convenient to gather more people on Wednesdays at our Hobby corner to work on a common "something"... #Project2 presents a dieselpunk diorama of a flying island with a fast food stand and several docks for flying cars, and the wonderful art of Alejandro Burdisi serves as a template. The main effects on the diorama will be LED lighting, but also the application of the tensegrity principle.

	  

	As we announced last time, we started checking the electronic components. Dunja brought us micro LEDs in various colors: cool and warm white, green, red and blue. The first step was to see how to connect the LEDs to the power supply. Unfortunately, it was not successful, because obviously LEDs of different colors use different voltages and consume different amounts of current, so further testing will be needed to determine what the exact values are so that Marko can calculate the resistors that are apparently needed to stabilize the system. Namely, like this, some LEDs shine very brightly while others are quite dim, and some do not shine at all.

	  

	Last week, Marko also acquired the vehicles for the diorama – two cars and a truck that we will convert into flying vehicles (Renault, Citroen and the Spanish Sava work truck). To make sure the meetup doesn't go to waste, we tested how the Renault would look with LEDs. There will be two cool white lights at the front, two red lights at the back, and a green one in the cabin on the dashboard.

	  

	In addition, we have made a first draft of the entire diorama (see the introductory image) which finally shows the arrangement of elements and vehicles.
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	Od 2021. Udruga za svoje članove organizira i grupne projekte na kojima sudjeluje više članova odjednom. Program pod nazivom Agram Group Build je nastao nakon što su naši članovi srijedama razgovarali o zajedničkim projektima i kako bi bilo zgodno okupiti više ljudi srijedama na našem Hobby kutku srijedom i to oko rada na zajedničkom „nečemu”… Projekt #2 predstavlja dieselpunk dioramu letećeg otoka sa štandom za fast food i nekoliko dokova za leteće automobile, a kao predložak služi nam predivan art Alejandra Burdisija. Glavni efekti na diorami biti će LED rasvjeta, ali i primjena tensegrity principa.

	  

	Kao što smo prošli put najavili, krenuli smo sa provjerama elektroničkih komponenata. Dunja nam je donijela mikro LEDice u raznim bojama, hladna i topla bijela, zelena, crvena i plava. Prvi korak bio je da vidimo kako spojiti LEDice na napajanje. Na žalost nije bilo uspješno, jer očito LEDice raznih boja koriste različiti napon i troše drugačije jakosti struje pa će trebati daljnje testiranje da ustanovimo koje su to točno vrijednosti pa da Marko može proračunati otpornike koji su očito potrebni da ustabile sustav. Naime, ovako, neke LEDice sjaje jako sjajno dok su druge dosta tamne, a neke uopće ne svijetle.

	  

	Proteklog tjedna Marko je nabavio i vozila – automobile i kamion koje ćemo pretvoriti u leteća vozila (Renault, Citroen i španjolski radni kamion Sava). Da baš sve ne propadne, isprobali smo kako bi Renault izgledao sa LEDicama. Naprijed će biti dva hladno bijela svijetla, otraga dva crvena, a u kabini zeleno na instrumentnoj ploči.

	  

	Pored toga, napravili smo i prvi nacrt cijele diorame (vidi uvodnu sliku) na kojoj se konačno vidi i raspored elemenata i vozila.
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Krunoslav Belinić, 24th July 2025

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