UMS "Agram" : House on the Haunted Hill < Articles < Hobby

House on the Haunted Hill

Marko Paunović, 11th September 2020

Any old west town has an undertaker's and Malifaux shouldn't be any different, because let's face it, the burrying busines thrives in the city of Malifaux.

Idea and planning

By now you should already know my mantra about how crucuial planning is in any bigger project. Since I'm doing a more or less typical Haloween structure set in Old west, I started my google search and instantly I found pictures of several types of wooden structures that I was going for. Mostly I got a lot of Tim Burton hits which was perfect. A rickety old wooden house on top of a hill with a winding road leading up to it. Something like the opening scenes of the movie Sleepy Hollow. This gave me the idea of adding some jack o'lanterns to the terrain, as well. Being too lazy to sculpt my own, this in turn, prompted me to start a search of some jack o'lanterns. I knew I saw a couple of crews on the Wyrd forums that had some on their bases. Almost immediately I found some by Secret Weapon Miniatures and purchased them as I was aware that it would take them a while to get from the States to me in Croatia.

During my search for jack o'lanterns, I stumbled upon some model pumpkins made by Busch. Being reasonably priced, I ordered those as well.

I now had some details that I knew the folks at Wyrd would love and I had a rough idea what my terrain should look like. It was time to put it all to paper. Begining with the house, I started drawing on a blank piece of paper. Once I had the preliminary sketch, I transfered it to graph paper. This provided me with some measurements that I could work with. The hill would be 10 cm high, the house would have a rough footprint of 10x8 cm while the whole terrain would have a footprint of roughly 30x40cm. This much space would allow me to have the winiding road – wide enough for a hearse (which I accidentally found in my bits box and decided to use).

Materials and tools

After the rough sketch, I could make a definite list of materials and tools needed for this project. Those are as follows:
- one 2x2 mm linden slat
- one 5x5 mm linden slat
- roughly two full planks of 2 mm balsa wood (they come in 10 x 100 cm planks)
- roughly 20cm of 5mm balsa wood (they also come in 10 x 100 cm planks)
- about 0,5m2 of 5cm thick HD styrofoam (50x100cm)
- superglue
- PVA glue
- 0,5 kg of DAS air drying clay
- gravel (four sizes)
- static grass / tufts
- pine trees
- sanding paper (1 sheet)
- thin card
- masking tape
- toothpicks
- some pins
- pumpkins
- jack o'lanterns
- hearse

The tools needed are:
- scalpel blade
- marker pen
- scissors
- modelling saw
- pin vice (or an electric mini drill)
- brushes– various sizes – for painting/washing and for drybrushing
- pliers and pincers
- hot wire cutter

* Unlike June issue of Wyrd Chronicles, where I used my Proxxon disc sander, jigsaw on the MDF to make the base, here I would make the base with styrofoam only. However, if you like a sturdier terrain, you can always cut the MDF base using a jigsaw and sand it down using a disc sander. When your base is cut, just glue the styrofoam base described later to your MDF base.

Building the base

Having all the materials arrive, I cut the footprint of the house that I drew on the graph paper and using a marker pen I used it as a template to drew a rough outline of the house on the HD styrofoam board. Around it, I started drawing trying to copy the design from the paper onto the HD styrofoam board. Once I was satisfied with the layout, I proceeded to cut it with my scalpel blade. Using long strokes with relatively shallow cuts it took me several goes to cut only one piece of styrofoam. Going around the base, I repeated the process untill I cut what would be the whole base of my new terrain. It is important to go with shallow cuts, because if you try with to deep of a cut, you'll end up tearing the styrofoam which looks really messy and would only result in a lot of sanding. This in turn would slow the whole building process. I now had the first layer of my haunted hill. If you remember, I wrote that my hill would be 10cm high. The HD styrofoam being only 5cm thick, meant I had to cut another base of the same size. Using the first base as a template I first drew the outline with a marker pen and then following the same procedure as with the first base, I cut it to size with my scalpel blade.

With both halves of the base cut, I had to make the winding road which meant further cutting of both of the bases. Using a marker of another colour, I drew the cut lines and carefully cut the excess styrofoam with my scalpel blade.

NOTE: if you feel that the cutting is getting heavier, change the blade. Unfortunately, styrofoam is murder on the blades and to have a perfect cut, you need sharp blades.

After the cutting was done, I used a piece of sanding paper to smooth out the irregularities left over from the scalpel blade. The two halves were now complete and I had to glue them together. Using skewers to connect the halves I glued them using PVA glue. I also noticed that at the start of the road the styrofoam was really thin so I stuck a whole skewer through the side of the terrain so it wouldn't break. Also, I protected the begining of the road with masking tape.

With the base glued, I now had to cut the cliffs. Same as last time I used my hot wire cutter to model the vertical surfaces. I again used my cheapest wire cutter, powered by two AA batteries. The electricity from the batteries heats up the wire that then melts the styrofoam performing a perfect straight cut. However, as it heats the wire elongates so you should take into account that fact when fixing the wire to the cutter. If the wire is too long, it will still perform the job, however it won't be as handy and you (like me) will have to stoop to some really fiddly and strange handling of the device in order to get a nice cut. After a bit of fiddling I managed to engrave the errosion patterns with the hot wire cutter.

When the hillside was built, it still looked a bit dull and plain so I decided to make some escarpments along the sides of the cliffs. In order to do so, I needed to build up the volume there. I could have done it using HD styrofoam once again, but I opted against it, choosing to sculpt the escarpments using DAS air drying clay. DAS comes in two versions, white and terracota. Both are equally good, don't crack during the curing period and are reasonably good for sculpting. (Note: you won't be able to sculpt your minis with DAS, but you will be able to model brick or stone walls, cobbled streets and whatnot.) I poured some PVA glue and spread some DAS along the inner and outer sides of the winding road. I then added some clay to the upper level of the base. I also added some volume to the middle of the road with DAS clay as well.

Finally we come to the stage of adding the texture. First, I decided to do the road. Applying a heavy coat of PVA glue, I added some gravel. As always I started with the largest grain and finishing with the smallest grain – sand for chinchillas. I also used the smallest grain on my pumpkin field on top of the base.

The road and field being done, I could now turn to the other horizontal surfaces – mostly the sides of the road. Again, I covered everything with PVA glue and added three or four different types of gravel. The final layer was a bit coaser than chinchilla sand in order to differentiate between the two.

When these were dry, I added pure chinchilla sand to the vertical surfaces of the cliffs. Here I had to make sure the PVA got into the grooves so I diluted the PVA with water in order for it to flow more freely.

I do all my texturing (and flocking for that matter) inside an old trey. This way all the excess material drops into it so I can reuse it later on. Saves money and time on vacuuming.

After the texture was dry, I undercoated the base with a black acrylic mat sprey in my garage. Always sprey in a well ventilated area.

Making the structure

While the texture and undercoat were drying, I proceeded to make the structure of the Undertaker's house. I decided to go for an easier and faster method of building the structure than I used in my old west church build. Unlike the old west church where I first made the wooden frame and then glued each plank separately, here I opted to make the walls from a single piece of 2mm balsa wood. On top of it, I would then glue 2mm thick balsa planks (cca 0,5x3cm). I made sure the wall structure had grooves going in up-down direction while the wall planks were glued going left to right. This way, although the wall is relatively thin, the structure is sturdy enough to withstand gaming abuse without any damage/breakage. As with MDF and styrofoam bases, I first drew the outlines of each wall on the balsa plank using my marker pen. Then I carefully cut each wall. I used my modellers saw for cuts against the grain (perpendicular to it) and used the scalpel blade for cuts going with the grain. When every wall segment was cut, I glued the walls together.

It was now time to cut and model balsa planks. Once again, I used a method similar to the one I used during the old church build. Since I would need a lot of slats of mostly the same size (3cm long) which would require a lot of precise and repeated measuring, I decided to help myself and construct a toos that would be used to cut the slats into desired length - 30 mm long. The geometry of these simple tools would allow fast and precise cutting of the balsa slats and true enough after only half an hour I had cut almost 4 meters of balsa planks.

Once the basic outline of the structure was made, I started gluing the planks. In places where the planks protruded from the walls, I cut them using my scalpel blade. The whole process is fiddly mostly because none of the walls is perpendicular to the other so lots of tayloring was required.

To make the roof structure, I used 2mm thick balsa wood. Once the roof structure was made, I used the same material I used on the church to make the roof – sanding paper cut to size. I just love the texture it has. Once everything was finished, I took both the structure and the base to my garage for a quick sprey of undercoat. Remember to always sprey in a well ventilated area! When the undercoat was dry, I first dryfitted the building to the base, closed the gaps with some balsa planks and applied with a large brush a coat of black colour to the places the sprey didn't reach.

Painting

When the undercoat was dry, it was time to paint the terrain. Normally, I would have glued the building to the base at this point but I decided against it mainly because of the site of the terrain itself. This way I could handle the terrain easier so I left the two parts separate. I started painting the base first. Wanting all my terrain to fit one theme (and consequently one tabletop) it was only natural I use the same colours and colour scheme as on the earlier terrain. Therefore once again I used Pebeo Deco color range. I used Brown (29) for the basecoat and continued drybrushing with Ocre (51). Lighter shades were done with a 50:50 mixture of Ocre (51) and White (41). The final highlight was done with Antique White (69). The road was first basecoated with Brown (29) then heavily drybrushed with Ocre (51) and a 50:50 mixture of Ocre (51) and White (41). The last two highlights were Antique White (69) and pure White (41). This way, I had a visual difference between the cliffs with normal groundwork and the worn out road.

The building has two different surfaces and consequently textures – roof and wooden walls. I proceeded to paint the wooden walls by drybrushing first using a 50:50 mixture of Black (55) and Grey (54). Next layer was pure Grey (54) and the finishing highlight was Ash Brown (70). I was not quite satisfied with the result, so I added another highlight of pure White (41). The roof was painted first with a mixture of Black (55) and Grey (54) and then a mixture of Grey (54) and Antique White (69) finishing with almost a pure coat of Antique White (69). With the base and house painted, I could now glue them together. I used PVA glue to glue the building in place.

Vegetation

After the painting, it was time to add the vegetation to the base. First up, I decided to plant some pine trees. I used Ziterdes ones that come in a big pack of 20 (or 25, not sure). They come on long shafts and in several sizes and heights. In order to glue them in place, I first had to cut their round bases as they got in the way. I also added metal pins to the pine trees. The easiest method of pinning metal pins to the plastic trunks of the trees is to heat the metal pin using a candle and just stick it into the trunk. The heat will melt the plastic locally and as the pin goes into the trunk the heat dissipates and once the pin is cool it will become lodged into the trunk without any need to glue it. Also, I used a pinvice to make the hole in the DAS clay base to accommodate the pins. I glued the trees using both PVA and super glue.

With the trees in place, I could now add the static grass. I made a mixture using several green, brown, yellow and black shades of static grass and when I was satisfied with the end product, I glued it in random patches throughout the base. One thing I made sure of is that I put static grass over any and all of the remaining holes where the wooden structure met the base in order to hide the unintentional mistake. Once the static grass was in place, I applied several shades of different tufts. Again, as in the former articles, I used tufts made by a company called Gamer's Grass.

In the end I added my cool Haloween-ey additions. First up was the pumpkin field. Pumpkins come from Busch, a German model train company that produces excellent terrain accessories, especially in their Natur Pur range (pumpkins, sunflowers, roses, water lillies etc). The set cost about 8USD and has 10 sets of pumpkins with vines and I think it's great value for money. Being an H0 scale, these are in a scale a bit smaller than 32mm minis but the pumpkins come in various sizes so you can even use the smallest pumpkins as tomatos. They already come in different colours so painting required was minimal. When the painting was done, I glued the couple of sets into my pumpkin field using superglue. The second addition was a couple of Jack o'lanterns made by Secret Weapon Miniatures. Set costs about 10 USD and has 10 Jack o'lanterns which is also great value for money. They are full of character and come in several sizes and designs. Unlike Busch, they are created for tabletop miniatures in mind so the scale works perfectly. Being grey these required some painting – using reds and oranges with some black lining. Once I was done with the painting, I glued them randomly along the road and in front of the house for some Haloween feeling. The third addition was the coffin and the lid. They come from an English company called Zealot Miniatures. Among other stuff, they produce excellent resin accessories for dungeons (like doors, trap doors, furniture, fountains etc..). In fact, they recently had quite a successful Kickstarter. I painted the grey resing with brown colours. The final addition to the terrain, which I actually left unglued, was the hearse. It was an old GW Black Coach that I had lying around. I built it using superglue and painted it black with some grey highlights. The reason for leaving it unglued was purely because of easier gaming. With it in the shed, it would prevent models from going around the house. This marked the end of the build and all I had to do was to take some pictures of the finished product.

Latest articles

Agram Group Build #7 – Amon Hen, pt.2

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	Agram Group Build is back. For this seventh installment, the team decided to create a gaming board/diorama for Amon Hen. To that end, we fulfilled a childhood dream and acquired the original Forge World Amon Hen terrain (released around 2000) along with the accompanying set of miniatures. This series of articles will document the entire project—from crafting the terrain to assembling and painting the miniatures.

	  

	After cutting the board in the previous article, it was time to create the terrain. We decided to achieve the necessary height—or volume—by using Styrofoam. The choice of material was dictated by the availability of Styrofoam; had we possessed that amount of extruded polystyrene (XPS) foam, we certainly would have chosen it due to its ease of shaping. We arranged the Styrofoam sheets to cover the entire surface of the board, gluing them down with PVA glue and reinforcing the joints with masking tape. Next, we placed the assembled Amon Hen model in position and traced its outlines.

	  

	  

	  

	The next step was cutting out the rough shape of the terrain and arranging tall vegetation across the diorama to establish the outlines of the final look.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	After marking the placement of the trees, we decided to glue the Styrofoam terrain piece onto the board. We used PVA glue for this as well, and to ensure firm contact, we secured the edges with masking tape so the Styrofoam wouldn't warp while drying. Finally, we constructed a ramp for the temple entrance.

	  

	  

	  

	In the meantime, Kruno was working on the preparatory work on the figures.

	  

	  

	  
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	Agram Group Build se vraća. U svojoj sedmoj instalaciji, ekipa je odlučila izraditi igraću tablu / dioramu za Amon Hen. Za tu potrebu, ispunili smo si dječačke sne i nabavili originalni Forge World teren Amon Hena (izašao negdje cca 2000.) sa setom pripadajućih figura. Ova serija članaka pratit će izradu cijelog projekta – kako izrade terena, tako i sastavljanja i bojanja figura.

	  

	Nakon rezanja table u prošlom članku, došao je red na izradu terena. Visinu, odnosno volumen, smo odlučili dobiti korištenjem stiropora. Odabir materijala je uvjetovala dostupnost stiropora. Da smo imali tu količinu stirodura, sigurno bismo ga odabrali zbog jednostavnosti obrade. Stiroporne daske smo posložili tako da pokriju cijelu površinu table. Zalijepili smo ih koristeći PVA ljepilo, a spojeve dodatno učvrstili koristeći krep traku. Potom smo stavili složenu maketu Amon Hena i ucrtali obrise

	  

	  

	  

	Sljedeći korak bilo je izrezivanje grubog oblika terena i slaganje visoke vegetacije po diorami – tako da dobijemo obrise konačnog izgleda.

	  

	  

	  

	  

	Nakon označavanje gdje ide koje drvo, odlučili smo zalijepiti stiroporni teren na dasku. To smo također odradili pomoću PVA ljepila – a za dodatan pritisak, rubove smo pritisnuli koristeći krep traku tako da se stiropor ne deformira tijekom sušenja. Na kraju smo izradili i kosinu za prilaz u hram.

	  

	  

	  

	Za to vrijeme, Kruno se bavio pripremnim radovima na figurama.

	  

	  

	  

	 
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Krunoslav Belinić, 24th September 2026

Signs for your plinths

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	This article will cover creating nameplates for your display figure bases. I have been considering the option of printed nameplates for quite some time, and these are the results I achieved after a bit of effort and research.

	The 3D engraved nameplates I usually use are quite expensive (around €10 apiece) and require preparation, ordering from an engraving studio, and waiting for the work to be completed. Consequently, my practice has been to place only one or two orders a year, mostly before our "Black Queen" event. Another major drawback is that these nameplates are made of plastic and cannot be bent, which automatically rules out round plinths.

	  

	After a bit of research, the results showed that miniaturists quite often use printed paper signs. What I saw in person was that these signs are very glossy, and online research revealed that they are printed on photo paper. So, I decided to try it out myself. First, I created the design for the sign.

	  

	Before looking for a photo studio, I decided to print it out on plain paper first to see what it looked like.

	  

	  

	Even when I put up those signs on plain paper, the result wasn't bad.

	  

	The hardest part of the whole process was finding a photo studio. It is incredible how few of them there are (that aren't just photocopy shops). I managed to find one relatively close to where I work and ordered two sets of two 10x15 cm photos—I decided to get two copies of each shot just in case something went wrong and I needed a backup.

	

	In total, the four photos cost me just under €2.00 (one-fifth of the price of a single plastic, engraved sign).

	  

	The final result on the bases is more than satisfactory! Would bang 10/10.

	  
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	Ovaj članak će se baviti izradom natpisa za baze za vaše display figure. Već dulje vrijeme razmišljam o opciji printanih natpisa i ovo su rezultati do kojih sam došao nakon malo truda i istraživanja.

	3D gravirani natpisi koje normalno koristim podosta su skupi (10ak € po komadu) i zahtijevaju pripremu pa naručivanje u nekom studiju za graviranje pa čekanje da oni to odrade. Tako da mi je do sada praksa bila jedna do dvije narudžbe godišnje, uglavnom prije našeg Black Queena. Drugi glavni nedostatak je da su ti natpisi plastični te se ne mogu savijati što automatski isključuje okrugle baze.

	  

	Nakon malo istraživanja, rezultati su pokazali da minijaturisti dosta često koriste printane natpise na papiru. Ono što sam uživo vidio jest da su to jako sjajni (glossy) natpisi, a online istraživanje je pokazalo da su to natpisi na foto papiru. Stoga, sam odlučio isprobati kako to funkcionira. Prvo sam napravio dizajn natpisa.

	  

	Prije potrage za foto studijom, odlučio sam isprintati prvo na običan papir da vidim kako to izgleda.

	  

	  

	Čak i kada sam postavio te natpise na običnom papiru, rezultat nije bio loš.

	  

	Najteži dio cijelog procesa bila je potraga za foto studijom. Nevjerojatno je koliko ih malo ima (a da nisu fotokopiraone). Uspio sam naći jedan relativno blizu mjesta gdje radim te naručio izradu dva puta po dvije fotografije 10x15cm – odlučio sam za svaki slučaj svaku fotku dva puta napraviti tako da ako nešto pođe u krivo da imam rezervu.

	  

	Sveukupno su me 4 fotografije ispale nešto ispod 2,00€ (jedna petina cijene jednog plastičnog, graviranog natpisa).

	  

	Završni rezultat na bazama je više nego zadovoljavajuć! Would bang 10/10.

	  
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Marko Paunović, 24th September 2026

We attended: Days of Technical Culture 2026

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	On Friday and Saturday, 18 and 19 Sept 2026, we participated in the Technical Culture Days at the Technical Museum. At our stand, visitors could discover the world of miniatures, and we were especially delighted by the interest shown by children who picked up a paintbrush for the first time.

	  

	Kruno and the team did a fantastic job guiding them through the initial steps of coloring. There was a mix of concentration, joy, and the occasional serious question about which color best suited the little hero. Interest was so high that the workspace around our stand quickly became cramped. For next year, we would love to see more space for workshops so that everyone can sit down comfortably and try their hand at painting.

	  

	  

	  

	I have participated in the Technical Culture Days for years, ever since the event was held in Dubrava. For me, the Nikola Tesla Technical Museum represents a major step forward: the venue lends a special atmosphere to the event, and the turnout this year was phenomenal. I was also pleasantly surprised by the other exhibitors' stands. It was a real pleasure to walk among them and see the fascinating things people are creating and sharing with visitors.

	  

	  

	  

	You can find more photos on our social media.

	  

	On Friday, our Marko gave a presentation titled "Miniaturism – A World in Miniature," in which he described to all those present the projects and programs organized by the Association, as well as everything we offer to our fellow citizens!

	  

	  

	  

	

	Thank you to everyone who stopped by, asked a question, or painted their first miniature. I look forward to next year—with just as many curious visitors and, I hope, a few more tables for brushes.
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	U petak i subotu, 18. i 19. rujna 2026., smo sudjelovali na Danima tehničke kulture u Tehničkom muzeju. Na našem su štandu posjetitelji mogli upoznati svijet minijatura, a najviše nas je razveselio interes djece koja su prvi put uzela kist u ruke.

	  

	Kruno i ekipa sjajno su ih vodili kroz prve korake bojanja. Bilo je koncentracije, veselja i pokojeg ozbiljnog pitanja o tome koja boja najbolje pristaje malom junaku. Interes je bio toliko velik da nam je prostor za rad oko štanda brzo postao tijesan. Za iduću godinu voljeli bismo vidjeti nešto više mjesta za radionice, kako bi svatko mogao mirno sjesti i okušati se u bojanju.

	  

	  

	  

	Na Danima tehničke kulture sudjelovao sam godinama, još dok su se održavali u Dubravi. Tehnički muzej Nikola Tesla za mene je velik korak naprijed: prostor daje događaju posebnu atmosferu, a posjećenost je ove godine bila fenomenalna. Štandovi drugih izlagača također su me ugodno iznenadili. Bilo je pravo zadovoljstvo prošetati među njima i vidjeti koliko zanimljivih stvari ljudi stvaraju i dijele s posjetiteljima.

	  

	  

	  

	Više fotografija pogledajte na našim društvenim mrežama

	

	U petak, naš Marko je održao predavanje pod nazivom MINIJATURIZAM – Svijet u malom u kojem je svim prisutnima opisao projekte i programe koje Udruga organizira i što sve nudimo našim sugrađanima!

	  

	  

	  

	

	Hvala svima koji su zastali kod nas, postavili pitanje ili obojali svoju prvu minijaturu. Veselim sei dućoj godini — uz jednako puno znatiželjnih posjetitelja i, nadam se, koji stol više za kistove.
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Marko Paunović, 23th September 2026

Agram Group Build #7 – Amon Hen, pt.1

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    ["title_eng"]=>
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	Agram Group Build is back. For this seventh installment, the team decided to create a gaming board/diorama for Amon Hen. To that end, we fulfilled a childhood dream and acquired the original Forge World Amon Hen terrain (released around 2000) along with the accompanying set of miniatures. This series of articles will document the entire project—from crafting the terrain to assembling and painting the miniatures.

	  

	The idea from the start was to create a diorama of the famous scene from *The Lord of the Rings* where Boromir falls in battle and the Uruk-hai abduct two—fortunately, the wrong—Hobbits. Ideally, we envisioned everything fitting onto a 40 x 40 cm board. So, the first step was to verify this; we used two sheets of A3 paper to create a square of roughly the desired size.

	  

	Figures and terrain fit perfectly for the board of that size. However, this should also be a diorama, so we checked how everything works together with vegetation. Fortunately, before the terrain and figures arrived, we also acquired appropriate autumn trees.

	  

	Once the concept was confirmed, we could get to work on making the base for the board. We used a 130 x 40 x 2 cm plank—originally a shelf—for this purpose. We marked two diagonals on it to outline a 40 x 40 cm square, then applied masking tape over the area to protect the wood during sawing.

	  

	Then, we cut the board to the desired size using a circular saw. After cutting, we sanded both cut edges.

	  

	And with that, preparations for the first collaborative project are complete. We have everything ready for the presentation at the Technical Culture Days, where our Marko will conduct demonstration workshops—specifically, demonstrations on creating a spatial model—based on this very project.

	  
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	Agram Group Build se vraća. U svojoj sedmoj instalaciji, ekipa je odlučila izraditi igraću tablu / dioramu za Amon Hen. Za tu potrebu, ispunili smo si dječačke sne i nabavili originalni Forge World teren Amon Hena (izašao negdje cca 2000.) sa setom pripadajućih figura. Ova serija članaka pratit će izradu cijelog projekta – kako izrade terena, tako i sastavljanja i bojanja figura.

	  

	Ideja od početka bila je da napravimo dioramu poznate scene iz Gospodara prstenova gdje Boromir pogiba, a Uruk Hai otimaju dva, srećom pogrešna, Hobita. Idealno u našim zamislima sve bi stalo na tablu 40 x 40 cm. Stoga prvo je to trebalo provjeriti. Od dva A3 papira napravili smo kvadrat otprilike željene veličine.

	  

	Figure i teren taman pašu za tablu te dimenzije. Međutim, ovo bi trebala biti i diorama, stoga smo provjerili kako sve zajedno funkcionira i sa vegetacijom. Na svu sreću, prije nego su došli teren i figure, nabavili smo i prigodno jesensko drveće.

	  

	Kad smo potvrdili koncept, mogli smo se baciti na izradu baze za tablu. Za to nam je poslužila daska 130 x 40 x 2 cm koja je služila kao polica. Na nju smo ucrtali dvije dijagonale i na taj način dobili kvadrat veličine 40 x 40 cm. Zatim smo preko toga prelijepili krep traku kako bismo dasku zaštitili prilikom piljenja.

	  

	Zatim smo ispilili dasku na željenu veličinu ručnim cirkularom. Nakon piljenja smo pobrusili oba rezana ruba.

	  

	I time su pripreme za prvi zajednički rad završene. Sve smo spremili i pripremili za nastup na Danima tehničke kulture gdje će naš Marko upravo na ovom projektu držati ogledne radionice odn. demonstracije izrade prostorne makete.

	  
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Marko Paunović, 14th September 2026

We attended: H.R.E.N. 28 - 2026., Medvode, Slovenia

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	Another success for the Hren organizers! Of the two-day event, the first day was dedicated to the Turnip28 game, and the second to an original game designed by the hosts. Like last year, the tables and courts exceeded the expectations of the players, the scenarios were imaginative, and I enjoyed the interaction between the tables during the game. For example, my first game involved rubbing horseradish roots on the figures during the game, including other tables in the hall. The next day, we played as a fun cooperative game in pairs, in which each pair of players had their own kit-bashani spaceship (which we made before or during the event) with which we had to pick up Tod (a character from last year) and return him to Earth. There was no shortage of chaos. The hosts from Amulet tried to make us comfortable and not hungry or thirsty during the entire event, and I can only say words of praise for their effort and engagement!

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	
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	Još jedan uspjeh za organizatore Hren-a! Od dva dana eventa, prvi dan je bio namijenjen igri Turnip28, a drugi za originalnu igru smišljenu od strane domaćina. Kao i prošle godine, stolovi i tereni su nadmašili očekivanja igrača, scenariji su bili maštoviti i zabavljala me interakcija između stolova tijekom igre. Na primjer, moja prva partija uključivala je ribanje korijena hrena po figurama tijekom igre, uključujući i druge stolove u dvorani. Idući dan smo igrali jako zabavnu zajedničku igru u parovima, u kojoj je svaki par igrača imao svoj kit-bashani svemirski brod (koji smo izrađivali prije ili tijekom eventa) kojim smo trebali pokupiti Toda (lik od prošle godine) i vratiti ga na Zemlju. Kaosa nije falilo. Domaćini iz Amuleta su se trudili da nam bude ugodno i da ne budemo ni gladni ni žedni tijekom cijelog vremena održavanja manifestacije i mogu reći samo riječi hvale na trud i angažman!

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  

	  
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