UMS "Agram" : Modular Gaming Board < Articles < Hobby

Modular Gaming Board

Marko Paunović, 11th September 2020

In the past issues I've been dealing with various forms of terrain for my Malifaux games. I've started with several bigger, feature terrain, like Western Church with a graveyard, Undertakers or Water tower with a fog machine. I've then continued with a train set accompanied by several modules worth of railroad tracks. Finally I ended with three modules of a dried river and a set of smaller gaming pieces (like forests, rough terrain, fences etc). In this issue, I'll be tackling how to build your own modular board, easily and fairly cheaply.

Obviously like with every big project, When making such a board you need to make the blueprints and carefully think everything through. What size will the board be, how many modules, how to connenct the modules, features stretching through a couple of modules - how to make the transitions... Fortunately for me, the basic idea of the board was already in my mind because a lot would be decided and defined by the terrain I've already built. Colours to be used I need not think about as they must be the same as in all the other terrain. Having such a great number of terrain pieces, means that I won't need a lot of features built into my modules. This makes the actual build easier, however deciding what details and features to use and more importantly where to place them, complicated matters. Over the course of the last couple of years I've made quite a number of large terrain pieces that I would like to use in my games. Having details, like large boulders, in wrong places on the board would prevent me from firmly placing larger pieces of terrain on my tabletop. That is something I need to avoid so I will need to take extra care not to get carried away. Let the board look a bit „boring, flat and featureless“.

Planning

Here is the list of needs and wants I've compiled after a couple of nights of planning:

1. easy storage (modules - no big wooden board that's hard to put away) N
1.1. size of the entire board: 90 x 90cm (or as close as possible) N
1.2. board needs to consist of four modules 45 x 45 cm (or as close as possible) N

2. use magnets for fixing the modules N
2.1. connection of the modules - use magnets (diametre 10mm) W/N
2.2. connection of the modules – use plastic pins (diametre 8mm) W/N
2.3. place the magnets/pins in the middle of each board W

3. details W
3.1. dirt paths – only on two or three modules W
3.2. one module without features W
3.3. dirt road – only on one module, as short as possible N
3.4. all of the modules must have at least ¼ of each module without any features N

4. details mustn't continue from one module to the next N

5. features and details as flat as possible (so I can place my terrain on the table easily) N

6. materials to be used – as light as possible N

7. frame – sturdy that won't bend or break easily N

When I compiled the list, already some things were begining to come to light. The need for light materials to be used made the choice easy – only HD Styrofoam could meet the demand on such a large surface or really thin MDF (maximum 5mm thickness). In the end, I went for three modules of HD Styrofoam (as it is less expensive) and one module of MDF (just for the purposes of this article so I can explain how to make it with this material as well). However, the need for sturdy frame and the connection through magnets meant that each module had to have a wooden frame. This in turn meant that the board would be at least 2,5 – 4 cm high. So the volume the board would have when not assembled would be 45 x 45 x 16cm (maximum height). This means that the whole board wouldn't take up too much space which is exactly what I was going for. After a little deliberation, I've decided to go with the magnets as my choice of connection, instead of pins. I'll do the list of pros and cons a little later on in the article. However, I decided to make a mock-up of the pin connection, as well, for the purposes of this article. Next up, was to make a sketch of the entire layout. I made sure I dotted down everything and proceeded to make a list of materials and tools needed.

- glues - PVA 1kg, 1x10g Superglue
- paints and spreys
- 6 Pebeo Deco Paints (Black, White, Grey, Brown, Ochre and Ash), one black matt acrylic sprey and one clear matt acrylic sprey
- large brushes No 90, No 40
- airbrush
- brush size 16
- high density sytyrofoam
- 2 boards (1200 x 600 x 20 mm)
- MDF 1 board (50 x 50cm) – just for the purposes of this article!
- 8mm diametre plastic tube – just for the purposes of this article!
- wooden slats
- 8 pieces (30 x 5 x 1000 mm)
- balsa wood 5mm thick (10 x 1000 mm)
- magnets - 32 pieces (diametre 10 mm, thickness 1mm)
- DAS air drying clay (0,5kg)
- plaster (half a cup)
- mould for casting cobbles
- sand and gravel (4 sizes)
- static grass and scatter (three to four sorts)
- scalpel blade
- jig saw
- disc sander
- modeller's saw
- mill bit (10 mm diametre)
- sanding paper
- masking tape

When you make such a list, you can also add where you can buy those items and it'll make your shopping easier and faster. When all summed up, I reckon, my board wouldn't cost more than 30-35USD which is really great as this is even cheaper than normal playing mats and that came as a surprise really.

Actual build

After you purchased everything you need, it's time to start the build. First thing I did when I started was making the wooden frame out of the 8 linden slats 30 x 5 x 1000 mm planks. I cut them 2mm longer than neccessary. Fortunately, the slats being 1000 mm long I could afford it so each slat could be used to make two sides of the frame. They all had leftovers and when finally done, I'd have modules that were exactly 45 x 45 cm. When cutting (with a saw) cut one from one side of the plank and the other from the other side. It will ensure you that you have at least one vertically cut side (factory made). After you make this, you'll have to sand of the extra 2mm of length. In order to have a perfect fit, I used my Proxxon disc sander that has a movable trey which I set up at 45 degrees angle. After both sides of each plank were sanded I checked if I had perfect fits all around.

After the wooden frame parts were cut, I proceeded with magnet installment. First of all, I marked one side of all the magnets with green colour and the other with red (note: it doesn't matter which colour you use, obviously, as long as they are sufficiantly different). When I had all my 32 magnets marked on both sides, it was time to mark the wooden frame slats exactly where I would place them. I decided to place them exactly 10 cm from left/right side and exactly 1,5 cm from the top side. Using a marker I jotted down the exact centre so I could aim the vertical drill more easily. I placed the 10 mm diametre mill bit into it and drilled 2 mm deep into the wooden slats. I glued the magnets using a mixture of PVA glue (inside the hole) and superglue (on the magnets).

In the design phase I mentioned another way to connect the modules. The preparations for the pin connection are mostly the same. Decide where to place the pins (how far from each side of the module and on which height). Using a drill of appropriate size (8mm in this case), I made the holes straight through the wooden slat. I then proceeded to cut the plastic rod into pins of desired length and placed one pin per side. Like with magnets, I carefully marked each side of the module with separate colour (red and green). One colour would have the pin (be the male jack) and the other would have the hole (be the female jack). I would suggest that your pins protrude at least 2,5cm. If you've done everything right, the pins should align precisely with the holes and you should get a perfect fit. Using the pins will provide a more permanent and rigid connection than the magnet version. However, storing the modules would require more space. Of course, you could always opt not to fix the pins to the modules and store them in a separate bag.

As mentioned above, on three of the modules, I would be using high density styrofoam to make the body of the board so I now had to cut it into four pieces that would go into the four frames of the modules. Since the frames' outside dimensions were exactly 45 x 45 cm and the wooden frame thickness was 5 mm (on each side!), that meant that my styrofoam boards needed to be exactly 44 x 44 cm so using some straight wooden planks (balsa wood) I first drew the outline and then using my scalpel blade I cut the four pieces.

The fourth module would be done out of thin MDF (about 4mm). Using the same method as before, I drew the outline of the module and using my jigsaw I cut it to desired size (44 x 44 cm). Earlier in the article, I mentioned I would list some pros and cons of each method. Obviously, the styrofoam is easier to cut, lighter and due to it's soft properties and relatively high depth provides the builder the opportunity to add some features inside the module. However, the styrofoam usually comes with different (usually diamond shaped) features on it's surfaces. This is because it is used as insulation on houses so the roughness of the surface makes it adhere better to the wall surfaces. I had to remove the texture and I did it using a makeshift tool made from sanding paper, masking tape and a paint bottle. The MDF is obviously a little heavier, more difficult to cut but on the other hand provides better rigidity of the entire module. Also, being thinner than styrofoam, it provides more room on the inside of the module, so your modules can have more texutre and protruding details and you'll still be able to stack the modules on top of each other when placed in storage.

In order to glue the wooden frames at right angle more easily, I made some brackets (of course you can buy them, but it's cheaper this way). From the 5mm thick balsa wood I cut 8 pieces about 5 x 5 cm large. Afterwards using a knife, I cut them diagonally and presto, I had 16 brackets (for each corner of the 4 modules). I glued them using superglue.

I now had all the pieces I needed to assemble the four modules. I used superglue to instantly bond the wooden frames to eachother and to the brackets. When I acchieved the initial strength of the bond, I added PVA glue to all the joints. When the bonds were dry, I placed my styrofoam boards into each frame. After a bit of tayloring with a scalpel blade I had them all fit snuggly inside the frames. I glued the styrofoam boards to the frames using PVA glue (superglue melts styrofoam) and left it to dry overnight. Before pouring the glue, I added masking tape to all the joints on the top surface to prevent the glue from leaking.

Adding texture

I assembled all the modules to check how they fit. On the module with the MDF base, the base had sunk into the wooden frame and didn't align perfectly. To fix it, I mixed up some plaster with water making sure the mixture was almost fluid-like. When I was satisfied with the consistency, I poured in the plaster and using a long straight slat I leveled the plaster with the wooden frame. Once it was dry, I checked the alignment again and since everything worked out great it was now time to add some scenic features that I decided I'd install. Using my sketch, I carefully copied the design to the board clearly marking the dirt roads, dirt paths and all the clear featureless areas. When I had the design drawn on the board, using some sanding paper taped to a bottle (for a colour I'd be using later) I sanded into the board so the roads would be flat with the ground. I managed to make the profile of the road by just sanding the MDF. If I hadn't succeeded I would opt to use DAS air drying clay. I would shaped some features to the roads and when I satisfied with how they looked, I would smear some PVA glue over the entire surface of the.

For a long time I debated whether to add some cobbled stone road or area to my board for the purposes of this article. However, in the end I decided against it as it would clash too much with the rest of the scenery. Luckily, on one of my previous projects I did just that so I have a couple of pics to show how it's done. First, using the method described earlier I made a denture in the styrofoam to fit my cobbled stones which I made from a silicone mould I found in a Home depo store (note: it was actually a pot coaster that I used in Wyrd Chronicles no 22). I mixed some plaster with water and I poured it into my mould. Half an hour later I had my cobbles. I placed the cobbles into the appropriate hole and when done, I sprinkled generously some gravel and sand.

With all the features modelled on the board, I proceeded with adding texture. First I added the big pieces of slate. Then I added the dirt road and/or paths. After I smeared a slightly watered down PVA (just enough so it would spread easily) on all the surfaces, I sprinkled some larger bits of gravel. I added more texture progressively going from larger granulate to smaller. The final granulate size was smallest chinchilla sand. I repeated the process on all the other surfaces, ending in a granulate a tad bigger than chinchilla sand so I could diferentiate between the normal ground and the dirt road.

Painting

Leaving to dry overnight, I continued the process in the morning with an application of a black undercoat. I used a black matt acrylic sprey. After it was dry, I airbrushed the colouration (using a GW sprey gun because it gives a quite large cover area in a single burst and it's dirt cheap to get). Normal ground was painted with brown while the road was done in several layers ending in a mixture of brown and ochre. The stone bits and areas were airbrushed grey. Final highlights were done with ash and antique white using size 40, 60 and 90 brushes. When the paints were dry, I spreyed everything with a clear matt acrylic sprey.

Vegetation

After the painting, as always, I added the vegetation. It was basicly a mixture of one type of scatter and three kinds of static grass – a brownish 3mm long one, a yellowish-brown 5mm long one and some yellowish 7mm tufts. The scatter was made from various stuff like twigs, coloured wooden dust and debree and some artificial thread. I applied them all with PVA glue and left it to dry. When it was all dry, I spreyed everything with clear matt acrylic sprey.

When all was done, I arranged (some of) my scenery on the board and was pretty satisfied with the results.

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MARIO: „Hugo the tiny, first captain of the Crow knights was maybe born small, but that didn't stop him from having great dreams. After the taming of the swamp bird, he now reigns over his underlings in despite of the jokes the warband tells of the "Tiny stout". He follows Boletus on his quest, but always biding his time for an inevitable coup. The model is based on a "fat knight" 3D print, which is scaled to around 30-ish%. The bird is a plastic stork toy with an added head from a toy pteranodon a friend found on a floor of a Con in Zagreb. The toilet is just a natural progression of the idea.

Followers of the cult of the roaming Proboscis and Boletus' vision. They, along with the lesser fodder, believe in staying alive only by the power of the beast of the swamps. So they listen to Boletus when he said to stay within it's shade at all costs, lest they fall behind and starve. I wanted to make a warband of wandering knights, with all their stuff on them, and the narrative of them trailing an "always moving" beast was perfect. The banners in my warband often represent not only the colors of the cult, but also their ever-moving lifestyle. Brutes made from Perry's foot knights and official torsos from Max.

Set upon his rotting steed, Boletus leads the warband, even though no one remembers how it started. It seems he and the monster were always there, the crows and scavengers alike just trailing the monster's wake. He almost never speaks, and even when he does, it's mostly a whisper. Sometimes it even seems as if the monster listens to him. The mount is a childrens toy baby giraffe, with legs reposed a bit and a mushroom for a head (I got heavily inspired by the official art from the mercenary book). And the rider is a mix of Perry minis limbs and an official torso print. I did a bad job with GS blending and tried to hide it with it looking like the skin falls off, I think it looks good (all considered).

The great Proboscis! The beast's call can be heard through the marshes, at night or day. It seldom rests, and it is seldom peaceful. The Proboscis is called many things, but none know from where it came. Boletus says that it is thawed from ancient ice and corrupted after the apocalypse, but some among the company doubt these words. Yet all in the warband know that it is the beast that keeps them fed, if they stay from it's mouth and preferably out of it's sight. The leftovers of it's meals feed them, and they follow it wherever it roams. This creature is a 3D print of a Platybelodon, to which I added fur, 4 additional trunks, dead trees and mud. I liked the idea of a sassy snob which would get comfortable on it's back, and am glad it turned out well in the end. Really satisfied with this model, and it performed admirably in my battles(when it didn't die due to my horrible dice rolls).

Knights of the Beet. Boletus hired these bastards recently, to help with some "muscle", after the beast decided the last horsemen the had were a tasty snack. He didn't know of their own agenda though. As the followers of the Beet cult, they are already converting some of the party to their vegetal religion. For they know that with time (and luck), all in the "ever marching" warband will march to the Beet. The idea for these horsemen was the first to come up when I decided to represent them all camping and living on the go. This is, in a way, a medieval parody of the way cyclists live when bikepacking - carrying all of their stuff on horses, drying the clothes on the sun etc. The models are Perry mounted men-at-arms with added official turnip torsos.“

SEBASTIAN: „These are the Fiber-nacci’s Fallow Forshippers - the 0.618th. My (finally) painted Turnip28 army. Done in the typical muddy shades of brown for Cist. Tried to give some color with their shells while still keeping the earthy, realistic tones. Knights of Shellwood cult, the sluggish Snail Knight, the shooty Snail Gunner, the wormy Toff and the rest of this empty-shelled army slumped their way into Hren28!“

ANTONI: „Starting off with my hollow, stuffed, blackpowder Fodder and my ruthless Toff, suzerain Wort (who got himself trampled by bastards after his unit abandoned him, and later drowned). I went with The Feast of Charybdis, worshipping the holy raddish (Wort only got the job because he looks like one). Huge thanks to everyone involed in HREN28 for making it such a magical experience!

The very marrow of my cult: The Scuttlers! They are extremely shy, hiding in their citadel atop a walking island. While the crab itself is a toy, the tower and the barnacles are sculpted/kitbashed (and then coated with texture paste and mud). The Citadel's handler is the genius Lord Bum, a slightly-larger-than-average goose and a master strategist. His constant triangulations enable the crab to rise from the silt exactly where it is needed ...30% of the time.

My most dangerous and elite turnip unit: The Cannonards Stump Gun. The danger they pose is mostly directed towards themselves, as they've blown up each time I have deployed them. No matter, the thrill of rolling 3d6 attacks more than makes up for the head-losing chaos.“

Domagoj: „I had a blast painting my mushroom rootlings, led by snobs finally pulled out the big pile of unpainted models - and I could not have imagined a better place to bring my friends gifts to have some fun! I called it the Alemakers legacy - based on mushrooms that are fermenting sweet mashes into alcohol. The core of the band is two units of blackbowder mushroom rootlings led by Lord Fermi, kindly gifted by @gardensofhecate (and thank u for resparking my interest in the hobby), looking for new ways to spread their spores.

The second noble to join the fray was Baron Colguts, lover of rootbeer, leading a feisty troupe of rootlings into battle - his oversized sword replacing his pistol since they have about the same range. Got this mini as a total surprise from @colecifer_xxviii who surprised me how spontaneous and kind hobbyists can be.

The third and final snob is the birdfrog arrived from @uollas_uolsh who is cooler than cool - hope he likes his model representing the key ingrident in beer making! Sir Hops with the big heavy frog cannon - for how can u make beer without adding hops?“

For more photos check our social networks!

And please follow our artists:

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Proteklih mjeseci naša ekipa se spremala za nastup na Turnip28 turniru pod nazivom H.R.E.N.28 u Sloveniji u srpnju. S obzirom da je event uspješno održan, ostali smo vam dužni fotografije vojski koje su Mario, Domagoj, Seb i Antoni slagali, a mi smo ih pratili na njihovom putu!

MARIO: „Hugo, sićušni, prvi kapetan Vitezova Vrana, možda se rodio malen, ali to ga nije spriječilo da ima velike snove. Nakon što je pripitomio močvarnu pticu, sada vlada svojim podređenima unatoč šalama koje ratna družina priča o "Sitnom stoutu". Prati Boletusa na njegovoj potrazi, ali uvijek čeka svoj trenutak za neizbježan udarac. Model se temelji na 3D printu "debelog viteza", koji je skaliran na oko 30%. Ptica je plastična igračka rode s dodanom glavom igračke pteranodona koju je prijatelj pronašao na podu Cona u Zagrebu. WC je samo prirodan nastavak ideje.

Sljedbenici kulta lutajućeg Proboscisa i Boletusove vizije. Oni, zajedno s manjim životinjama, vjeruju u preživljavanje samo snagom zvijeri iz močvara. Stoga slušaju Boletusa kada im je rekao da pod svaku cijenu ostanu u njegovoj sjeni, da ne zaostanu i ne umru od gladi. Htio sam napraviti ratnu družinu lutajućih vitezova, sa svim njihovim stvarima na sebi, a priča o njima kako prate "stalno pokretnu" zvijer bila je savršena. Zastave u mojoj ratnoj družini često predstavljaju ne samo boje kulta, već i njihov stalno pokretni način života. Zvijeri napravljene od Perryjevih pješačkih vitezova i službenih torza od Maxa.

Jašući na svom trulom konju, Boletus predvodi ratnu družinu, iako se nitko ne sjeća kako je sve počelo. Čini se da su on i čudovište oduvijek bili tamo, vrane i strvinari podjednako su samo pratili trag čudovišta. Gotovo nikad ne govori, a čak i kad govori, uglavnom je to šapat. Ponekad se čak čini kao da ga čudovište sluša. Konj je dječja igračka žirafa, s malo uvučenim nogama i gljivom umjesto glave (jako sam se inspirirao službenim crtežima iz knjige o plaćenicima). A jahač je mješavina Perryjevih minijaturnih udova i službenog otiska torza. Loše sam napravio posao s GS blendingom i pokušao sam to sakriti tako da izgleda kao da koža otpada, mislim da izgleda dobro (sve u svemu).

Veliki Proboscis! Zov zvijeri može se čuti kroz močvare, noću ili danju. Rijetko se odmara i rijetko je miran. Proboscis se naziva mnogim imenima, ali nitko ne zna odakle dolazi. Vrganj kaže da se odmrznuo od drevnog leda i iskvario nakon apokalipse, ali neki među društvom sumnjaju u te riječi. Pa ipak, svi u ratnoj družini znaju da ih zvijer hrani, ako ostanu podalje od njezinih usta i po mogućnosti izvan njezina vidokruga. Ostaci njezinih obroka ih hrane i slijede je gdje god luta. Ovo stvorenje je 3D print Platybelodona, kojem sam dodao krzno, 4 dodatna debla, mrtva stabla i blato. Svidjela mi se ideja drskog snoba koji bi se udobno smjestio na njegova leđa i drago mi je da je na kraju dobro ispalo. Jako sam zadovoljan ovim modelom i izvrsno se pokazao u mojim bitkama (kada nije uginuo zbog mog užasnog bacanja kockica).

Vitezovi Repe. Boletus je nedavno unajmio ove gadove da pomognu s malo "mišića", nakon što je zvijer odlučila da su posljednji konjanici koje su imali ukusan zalogaj. Međutim, nije znao za njihove vlastite namjere. Kao sljedbenici kulta Repe, već preobraćuju dio skupine u svoju vegetarijansku religiju. Jer znaju da će s vremenom (i srećom) svi u "vječno marširajućem" ratnom odredu marširati do Repe. Ideja za ove konjanike prva se pojavila kada sam odlučio prikazati ih sve kako kampiraju i žive u pokretu. Ovo je, na neki način, srednjovjekovna parodija načina na koji biciklisti žive kada se bicikliraju - nose sve svoje stvari na konjima, suše odjeću na suncu itd. Modeli su Perryjevi jahači s dodanim službenim torzovima od repe.“

SEBASTIAN: „Ovo su Fiber-naccijevi Fallow Forshippers - 0.618. Moja (konačno) obojana vojska za Turnip28. Napravljena u tipičnim blatnjavim nijansama smeđe za Cist. Pokušao sam dati malo boje njihovim oklopima, a da pritom zadržim zemljane, realistične tonove. Vitezovi kulta Školjkaste šume, tromi Puž Vitez, Puž Topnik koji puca, crvljivi Toff i ostatak ove vojske s praznim oklopima utonuli su u Hren28.“

ANTONI: „Počevši s mojim šupljim, prepariranim, crnim barutom Fodderom i mojim nemilosrdnim Toffom, suzerainom Wortom (kojeg su gadovi pregazili nakon što ga je njegova jedinica napustila, a kasnije se i utopio). Odlučio sam se za Gozbu Haribde, štovanje svete rotkvice (Wort je dobio posao samo zato što i sam tako izgleda). Veliko hvala svima koji su sudjelovali u HREN28 što su ovo iskustvo učinili tako čarobnim!

Sama srž mog kulta: Potapači! Iznimno su sramežljivi i skrivaju se u svojoj citadeli na vrhu otoka za hodanje. Dok je sam rak igračka, toranj i školjke su oblikovani/obrađeni (a zatim premazani teksturnom pastom i blatom). Citadelom upravlja genijalni Lord Bum, guska nešto veća od prosjeka i majstor strateg. Njegove stalne triangulacije omogućuju raku da se izdigne iz mulja točno tamo gdje je potrebno... 30% vremena.

Moja najopasnija i najelitna jedinica za repu: Topnički panj. Opasnost koju predstavljaju uglavnom je usmjerena prema njima samima, jer su eksplodirali svaki put kad bih ih rasporedio. Nema veze, uzbuđenje bacanja 3d6 napada više nego nadoknađuje kaos od kojeg gubite glavu.“

Domagoj: „Super sam se zabavio bojajući svoje korijene gljiva, predvođen snobovima, konačno sam izvukao veliku hrpu neobojenih modela - i nisam mogao zamisliti bolje mjesto za donijeti poklone prijateljima da se malo zabave! Nazvao sam to Alemakersovo nasljeđe - temeljeno na gljivama koje fermentiraju slatke kaše u alkohol. Jezgru benda čine dvije jedinice korijena crnih gljiva predvođenih Lordom Fermijem, ljubazno darovanih od @gardensofhecate (i hvala vam što ste ponovno probudili moj interes za hobi), tražeći nove načine širenja svojih spora.

Drugi plemić koji se pridružio borbi bio je baron Colguts, ljubitelj rootbeera, koji je u bitku predvodio žestoku skupinu rootlinga - njegov predimenzionirani mač zamijenio je pištolj budući da imaju otprilike isti domet. Ovaj minijaturni mač dobio sam kao potpuno iznenađenje od @colecifer_xxviii koji me iznenadio koliko spontani i ljubazni hobisti mogu biti.

Treći i posljednji snob je ptica-žaba stigla od @uollas_uolsh koja je super kul - nadam se da mu se sviđa njegov model koji predstavlja ključni sastojak u proizvodnji piva! Sir Hops s velikim teškim žabljim topom - jer kako možete napraviti pivo bez dodavanja hmelja?“

Za više fotografija bolje rezolucije zapratite naše socijalne mreže.

Molimo vas da zapratite i naše umjetnike:

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Marko Paunović, 6th August 2025

WE TOOK PART IN: H.r.e.n.28 in Slovenia

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Our guys have returned from a successful trip to Medvode in Slovenija where they attended H.r.e.n.28 international invitational event organised by our friends at AmuletD20.

This is a short report consisting of their photos and some thoughts about the event.

MARIO: “ I was delighted with the imagination, effort and goodwill of the organizers. I met new and familiar good people, I think that is the best part of such events. Conversations with artistic passion are always inspiring and I will remember them for a long time. The game itself is very fun (I came with very little experience) and with the help of other players I think I picked up a lot. The terrains and scenarios are the stars of the event with their diversity, and the icing on the cake was the Sunday game Dredge28 designed by Vane, which turned out to be very chaotic and fun (I guess I am a "cannon guy", when it comes to ships). “

ANTONI: “ As we waited outside the club entrance, I don't think any of us had any idea what was in store for us: atmospheric music and lighting, floor-to-ceiling fog, and six gorgeous, made-from-scratch tables. The table allocation system itself went much smoother than I expected - each of us was given a map with our own route through the tables (the first of three games is on the Wall of Teeth table, etc.) so there was never any confusion about who we were playing the next game with and where, since competitiveness and winning were not the focus. When I found out that the table scenarios changed from game to game, I was even more thrilled; there were more scenarios than players! No pair of opponents had the same experience, even if they were playing at the same table. Long breaks between games and a constant flow of coffee allowed us to share unique impressions and there was no stress if someone's game dragged on. As for the company, food and drinks, I take my hat off to the entire AmuletD20 team who entertained us, fed us and made the event possible! 10/10 “

SEBASTIAN: "I’ll never forget the moment we all entered the Amulet d20 space on Saturday morning, ready to begin the event. It was an amazing experience when they opened their doors, and the players got to see what the organisers had prepared for us. Atmospheric ligthing illuminating the whole space, omnious soundscapes coming from the speakers and beautiful boards spread throughout - inspiring, well thought-out boards, with lots of variety, specific lore and flavor, and of course all very playable. I played The Big Fucking Cannon board where Luka shot me to pieces at the end of round 3, The Great Wall of Teeth where the Giant Tongue tabled me (with Dorian’s help of course, particularly his Stump Gun) and Greater Ptui where by killing Vitek’s rootling too close to the glorious hole, his virgin sacrifice was accepted and I lost the game in less than 10 minutes. Overall had a blast, and the Dredge Race on Sunday was exactly as we had hoped once Vane finally let us in on the secret game he had created for the event - chaotic, fun, weird, difficult and flavorful. Huge credit to the organisers for pulling together such a great event, and I truly hope I’ll get to attend something as great as this in the future."

For more photos in better resolution, visit our social pages.

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Naši dečki su se vratili s uspješnog putovanja u Medvode u Sloveniji gdje su prisustvovali međunarodnom pozivnom događaju H.r.e.n.28 koji su organizirali naši prijatelji iz AmuletD20.

Ovo je kratki izvještaj koji se sastoji od fotografija i nekih njihovih misli o događaju.

MARIO: “ Bio sam oduševljen sa maštovitosti, trudom i dobrom voljom organizatora. Upoznao sam nove, i sreo poznate dobre ljude, smatram da je to najbolji dio ovakvih događanja. Razgovori sa umjetnickim žarom su uvijek inspirativni i pamtit ću ih dugo. Sama igra je vrlo zabavna (došao sam s jako malo iskustva) i uz pomoć ostalih igrača mislim da sam pohvatao puno toga. Tereni i scenariji su zvijezde događaja sa svojom raznolikoati, a ŝlag na kraju je bila nedjeljna igra Dredge28 koju je osmislio Vane, koja je ispala jako kaotična i zabavna (izgleda da sam "cannon guy", što se tiče brodova ) “

ANTONI: “ Dok smo čekali pred ulazom u klub vjerujem da nitko od nas nije imao ni približnu predodžbu onoga što nas je čekalo: atmosferična glazba i osvjetljenje, magla od poda do stropa i šest krasnih, od nule izrađenih stolova. Sam sustav raspodjele po stolovima tekao je mnogo glađe nego što sam očekivao - svatko od nas dobio je mapu s vlastitim putem po stolovima (prva od tri igre je na Wall of Teeth stolu itd.) tako da nikad nije bilo nedoumice oko toga s kim igramo sljedeću igru i gdje, s obzirom da kompetitivnost i pobjeda nisu bili fokus. Kad sam saznao da se scenariji po stolovima mijenjaju od igre do igre bio sam još više oduševljen; bilo je više scenarija nego igrača! Nijedan par protivnika nije imao isto iskustvo makar igrali na istom stolu. Duže pauze između igara i konstantan priljev kave omogućili su nam da podijelimo jedinstvene dojmove i da nema stresa ukoliko se nečija igra odužila. Što se tiče društva, hrane i pića, skidam kapu cijeloj AmuletD20 ekipi koja nas je zabavljala, hranila i omogućila sam event! 10/10 “

SEBASTIAN: "Nikada neću zaboraviti trenutak kada smo svi u subotu ujutro ušli u prostor AmuletD20, spremni za početak događaja. Bilo je to nevjerojatno iskustvo kada su otvorili svoja vrata, a igrači su mogli vidjeti što su nam organizatori pripremili. Atmosferična rasvjeta obasjavala je cijeli prostor, svemogući zvučni pejzaži dolazili su iz zvučnika i prekrasne ploče koje su se bile posvuda - inspirativne, dobro osmišljene ploče, s puno raznolikosti, specifičnom pričom i okusom, i naravno sve vrlo igrivo. Igrao sam na ploči The Big Fucking Cannon gdje me Luka na kraju 3. runde upucao na komadiće, The Great Wall of Teeth gdje me je Divovski jezik izbacio na stol (uz Dorianovu pomoć, naravno, posebno njegov Stump Gun) i Greater Ptui gdje je, ubivši Vitekovog rootlinga preblizu slavnoj rupi, njegova žrtva djevice bila prihvaćena i izgubio sam igru za manje od 10 minuta. Sveukupno, bilo je odlično, a Dredge Race u nedjelju bio je točno onakav kakav smo se nadali kada nas je Vane konačno pustio u tajnu igru koju je stvorio za događaj - kaotičan, zabavan, čudn, težak. Velike pohvale organizatorima što su organizirali tako sjajan događaj i iskreno se nadam da ću u budućnosti imati priliku prisustvovati nečemu ovako sjajnom."

Više fotografija u boljoj rezoluciji možete pogledati na našim socijalnim mrežama.

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Krunoslav Belinić, 6th August 2025

Agram Group Build #Project2 – part 4.

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	From 2021, the Association also organizes group projects for its members in which several members participate at once. The program called Agram Group Build was created after our members discussed joint projects on Wednesdays and how it would be convenient to gather more people on Wednesdays at our Hobby corner to work on a common "something"... #Project2 presents a dieselpunk diorama of a flying island with a fast food stand and several docks for flying cars, and the wonderful art of Alejandro Burdisi serves as a template. The main effects on the diorama will be LED lighting, but also the application of the tensegrity principle.

	  

	As we announced last time, we started checking the electronic components. Dunja brought us micro LEDs in various colors: cool and warm white, green, red and blue. The first step was to see how to connect the LEDs to the power supply. Unfortunately, it was not successful, because obviously LEDs of different colors use different voltages and consume different amounts of current, so further testing will be needed to determine what the exact values are so that Marko can calculate the resistors that are apparently needed to stabilize the system. Namely, like this, some LEDs shine very brightly while others are quite dim, and some do not shine at all.

	  

	Last week, Marko also acquired the vehicles for the diorama – two cars and a truck that we will convert into flying vehicles (Renault, Citroen and the Spanish Sava work truck). To make sure the meetup doesn't go to waste, we tested how the Renault would look with LEDs. There will be two cool white lights at the front, two red lights at the back, and a green one in the cabin on the dashboard.

	  

	In addition, we have made a first draft of the entire diorama (see the introductory image) which finally shows the arrangement of elements and vehicles.
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	Od 2021. Udruga za svoje članove organizira i grupne projekte na kojima sudjeluje više članova odjednom. Program pod nazivom Agram Group Build je nastao nakon što su naši članovi srijedama razgovarali o zajedničkim projektima i kako bi bilo zgodno okupiti više ljudi srijedama na našem Hobby kutku srijedom i to oko rada na zajedničkom „nečemu”… Projekt #2 predstavlja dieselpunk dioramu letećeg otoka sa štandom za fast food i nekoliko dokova za leteće automobile, a kao predložak služi nam predivan art Alejandra Burdisija. Glavni efekti na diorami biti će LED rasvjeta, ali i primjena tensegrity principa.

	  

	Kao što smo prošli put najavili, krenuli smo sa provjerama elektroničkih komponenata. Dunja nam je donijela mikro LEDice u raznim bojama, hladna i topla bijela, zelena, crvena i plava. Prvi korak bio je da vidimo kako spojiti LEDice na napajanje. Na žalost nije bilo uspješno, jer očito LEDice raznih boja koriste različiti napon i troše drugačije jakosti struje pa će trebati daljnje testiranje da ustanovimo koje su to točno vrijednosti pa da Marko može proračunati otpornike koji su očito potrebni da ustabile sustav. Naime, ovako, neke LEDice sjaje jako sjajno dok su druge dosta tamne, a neke uopće ne svijetle.

	  

	Proteklog tjedna Marko je nabavio i vozila – automobile i kamion koje ćemo pretvoriti u leteća vozila (Renault, Citroen i španjolski radni kamion Sava). Da baš sve ne propadne, isprobali smo kako bi Renault izgledao sa LEDicama. Naprijed će biti dva hladno bijela svijetla, otraga dva crvena, a u kabini zeleno na instrumentnoj ploči.

	  

	Pored toga, napravili smo i prvi nacrt cijele diorame (vidi uvodnu sliku) na kojoj se konačno vidi i raspored elemenata i vozila.
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Krunoslav Belinić, 24th July 2025

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