UMS "Agram" : Working with Resin < Articles < Hobby

Working with Resin

Jure Cukar, 22nd January 2021

In this article, Jure describes the process of using resin on your bases.

Glue the masking tape first along the edge of the plinth. Superglue the plastic dam the same width as the base on the masking tape. Hot glue gun along the edges of the plastic dams. At one point, it started to leak, but I quickly reacted bringing a hot glue gun to that joint and the further leakage was stopped. Great progress compared to my previous attempt when it leaked in all directions, but again there is room for improvement. It should be easy to take off as the dams are glued to the masking tape, but it is possible that it breaks and sticks to the plinth. Afterwards it'll go to grinding and polishing anyway.

I used a series of grinders finishing with wet grinding 2000 grad. Polishing with some pvc paste. Preliminary tests proved to be satisfactory. I used oil on the side of the dams, so I expect to be able to use 1500 and 2000 immediately.

How to prevent leakage?

My one test was to go through all the edges with UV resin so that everything clogs up and then I pour in the rest. It was ingenious however the problem is if you tint the resin you pour then you can see the difference and you will never be able to get the exact shade afterwards so it will look bad. But if it goes clear then it is a recipe for success.

Phase 1. Everything removed. It looks ok. I am bothered by the capillarity and the edges are not completely level with the plinth. They protrude a millimeter outside. I'll scrape off the edge and sand everything.

Phase 2. All sanded and polished. Sides and the top Surface as well. Papers 130, 220, 500, 1000 and wet 1500 and 2000 grain.

The paste proved to be good for more open and flat areas such as the sides. The parts around which it is needed to be careful and weavey don’t quite function as I expected. I will pour a thin layer of UV resin and „fry it“ in place.

Phase 3. Extra polish work done with my Dremell. Everything is dry and polished – end effect: very good!

Conclusion: need to solve the capillary problem differently. The problem is further exacerbated if some reesin escapes during the process because the capillary trace remains higher in those places. I don't know if something can be smeared beforehand to reduce that effect. I used ordinary oil. It was super easy to take off, but the capillary effect is there.

Wet sanding is too sexy and satisfying process.

Paste for polishing will be good for the sides, but not for the top surface which should not be touched after curing.

I need to get more glass paints so I can mix colours. This green is a bit oversaturated for the model I intend to use.

I tried to paint the resin with acrylic inks, but it got foggy for some reason. I guess the medium in the ink reacts with the chemicals and a cloudy muddy mixture is formed. interesting for further experimentation, but not for the effect that I wanted there.

Latest articles

Miniature Painting Workshop - 75mm Dwarf

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	On 09-10.05.2026. we held a new weekend miniature painting workshop. This time it was the turn of a dwarf in 75mm scale.

	

	




The workshop was held over two days (a whole weekend) and the participants painted a 75mm miniature dwarf. The focus of these lectures was painting various textures - metal, human skin, textiles and leather. Water-based acrylic paints were used in the workshop. For this purpose, the workshop leader, Ivan Knezović, chose a 75mm miniature dwarf from Durgin Paint Forge, sculpted by Carlos Perez Bugedo. The lectures were adapted so that the leader devotes equal time to all participants and can be adapted to all categories of miniaturists (from beginners to slightly more advanced).



	

	

	

	


The workshop took place as follows:

	First, the lecturer sits at his desk and explains and demonstrates each step in painting a miniature/model on his specimen. His work is displayed on a screen via a camera and projector, which the participants listen to, watch, and ask questions about.

	Then, the participants sit at their desks and apply the knowledge they have gained. The facilitator circulates among the participants and checks how each participant is doing. This way, he or she can adapt to each participant individually.




	

	

	

	The workshop will include the following thematic units:

	1. NMM (Non metallic metal)

2. Reflections of ambient colors on metal

3. Steel / gold

4. Face painting (male)

5. Adding vibrancy to the face (filters)

6. Extracting textures from fabric, metal and leather

	

	

	POWERED BY: Carta Magica, Fireball Figurines, Durgin Paint Forge, Playsupport
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	09-10.05.2026. smo održali novu vikend Radionicu bojanja minijatura. Ovoga puta na redu je bio patuljak u 75mm mjerilu.

	

	Radionica se provodila kroz dva dana (cijeli vikend) i polaznici su bojali 75mm minijaturu patuljka. Fokus ovih predavanja bilo je bojenje raznih tekstura – od metala, ljudske kože, tekstila i kože (leather). U sklopu radionice korištene su akrilne boje na bazi vode. U tu svrhu, voditelj radionice, Ivan Knezović, izabrao je 75 mm minijaturu patuljka tvrtke Durgin Paint Forge, koju je sculptao Carlos Perez Bugedo. Predavanja su prilagođena tako da voditelj posveti jednako vrijeme svim polaznicima i može se prilagoditi svim kategorijama minijaturista (od početnika do malo naprednijih).

	

	

	

	Radionica se odvijala na sljedeći način:

	Prvo, predavač sjedi za svojim stolom te objašnjava i demonstrira pojedini korak u bojanju minijature/makete na svojem primjerku. Njegov rad se preko kamere i projektora prikazuje na platnu što polaznici slušaju, gledaju, ali i postavljaju pitanja.

	Potom, polaznici sjedaju za svoje stolove i primjenjuju stečeno znanje. Voditelj kruži između polaznika i provjerava kako svakom polazniku ide. Na taj način, može se prilagoditi svakom polazniku ponaosob.

	

	

	

	Radionica će uključivati sljedeće tematske cjeline:

	1. NMM (Non metallic metal)

	2. Refleksije boja iz okoline na metalu

	3. Čelik / zlato

	4. Bojanje lica (muškog)

	5. Dodavanje živosti na lice (filteri)

	6. Izvlačenje tekstura tkanine, metala i kože (leather)

	

	

	POWERED BY: Carta Magica, Fireball Figurines, Durgin Paint Forge, Playsupport
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Ivan Knezović, 26th May 2026

We visited: Festival Svet v Malem 2026, Pivka, Slovenia

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	On May 23, 2026, we participated in the international plastic model making competition Festival Svet v Malem 2026 in Pivka, Slovenia.

	

	The competition is traditionally held at the Military History Park in Pivka.

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	
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	23. svibnja 2026. sudjelovali smo na međunarodnom natjecanju u plastičnom maketarstvu Festival Svet v Malem 2026 u Pivki u Sloveniji. 

	

	Natjecanje se tradicionalno održava u Parku vojne povijesti u Pivki.

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	

	
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Krunoslav Belinić, 26th May 2026

We visited: KupKA 2026

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	On May 16, 2026, we participated in the international plastic model making competition KupKA held at the Museum of the Homeland War in Karlovac.

	

	

	

	The competition was organized by the Slavoljub Penkala Modeling Club from Zagreb.

	

	

	

	

	Thanks to the organizer for an interesting competition, to the judges for some medals, and especially to my colleagues from the Maketarski Club Novi Sad - IPMS Serbia for the medal!

	

	

	
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	16. svibnja 2026. sudjelovali smo na međunarodnom natjecanju u plastičnom maketarstvu KupKA održanom u Muzeju domovinskog rata u Karlovcu.

	

	

	

	Natjecanje je organizirao Maketarski klub Slavoljub Penkala iz Zagreba

	

	

	

	

	Hvala organizatoru na zanimljivom natjecanju, sucima na ponešto medalja, a pogotovo kolegama iz Maketarskog Kluba Novi Sad - IPMS Srbija na medalji!

	

	

	
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Marko Paunović, 26th May 2026

Back to Basics Workshops in Gallery VN

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	In May 2026 we held our Back To Basics miniature painting workshops for the youngest in Gallery VN.

	

	The workshops were completely FREE for all participants!

	

	

	

	

	The Back to Basics method is a method of making models and miniatures that focuses on a fun process intended for younger ages, but everyone is welcome! In three separate sessions on Thursdays, participants (aged 7+) painted miniatures of their choice (knight, princess, king, wizard and barbarian). 

	

	

	

	

	

	

	1st session: Painting miniatures of choice, Thursday, 07.05. - from 18:00 to 19:00

	2nd session: Painting a miniature of your choice, Thursday, 14.05. - from 18:00 to 19:00

	3rd session: Painting a miniature of your choice, Thursday, 21.05. - from 18:00 to 19:00

	

	

	

	

	

	
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	U svibnju 2026. održali smo naše Back To Basics radionice za najmlađe u Galeriji i čitaonici VN.

	

	Radionice su bile BESPLATNE za sve polaznike!

	

	

	

	

	Back to Basics metoda je metoda izrade maketa i minijatura kojoj je fokus na zabavnom procesu namjenjenom mlađim uzrastima, ali svi su dobrodošli! U tri zasebna termina četvrtkom, polaznici (od 7+) su bojali minijature po izboru (vitez, princeza, kralj, čarobnjak i barbarin).

	

	

	

	

	

	

	1. termin: Bojenje minijature po izboru, četvrtak, 07.05. - od 18:00 do 19:00

	2. termin: Bojenje minijature po izboru, četvrtak, 14.05. - od 18:00 do 19:00

	3. termin: Bojenje minijature po izboru, četvrtak, 21.05. - od 18:00 do 19:00

	

	

	

	

	

	
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Krunoslav Belinić, 26th May 2026

Painting Faces at Tabletop Level

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	In this short article, I will describe two ways to paint faces on a so-called tabletop standard. The text follows two versions of the painting. One will use a store-bought wash, and in the second, slightly less contrasting one, I will use a wash that I got from regular paint. This way, the reader can choose which method suits them better.

	  

	The first step is to dye the base color.

	Left: Since I'm going to use a store-bought wash in this example, I decided to go for a darker shade of skin tone.

	Right: In this example, I'm going to use the color as a base for the wash, so I decided to go for a slightly lighter skin tone - and therefore a lighter base color.

	  

	The next step is to apply the wash.

	Left: I use a regular, store-bought Reikkland Fleshshade wash.

	Right: On a drop of the darker skin tone, I add two drops of Lahmian Medium and a drop or two of water. This creates my own wash, which I apply similarly to the example on the left.

	  

	Then comes the first highlight.

	Left: I apply the base color to the raised parts of the face and thus get the first highlight.

	Right: Just like in the example on the left, I use the base color as the first highlight.

	  

	Then the second highlight.

	Left: I get the second highlight by mixing the base color with a lighter shade.

	Right: I follow the same process as on the left, with the caveat that I never use pure white to mix the highlight, it's always an off white – with a minimal amount of some pigment.

	  

	The penultimate step is to outline the eyes.

	Left: This step is identical in both cases.

	Right: I outline the eyes with some off-white paint (to make my life easier, it's usually two lines).

	  

	The last step is to add shadows around the mouth and eyes.

	Left: In this case, you can use a darker wash like Nuln Oil or Druchi Purple.

	Right: I mixed black and purple and added two drops of Lahmian Medium and a drop or two of water to create a darker wash, then applied the mixture to the eye sockets, making sure not to get the wash on the previously drawn eyes.

	And the last thing is drawing the pupils – just vertical lines of dark/black color against the horizontal light lines for the eyes.

	 
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	U ovom kratkom članku, opisat ću dva načina za bojanje lica na takozvanom tabletop standardu. Tekst prati dvije verzije bojanja. Jedna će koristiti kupovni wash, a u drugoj, malo manje kontrastnoj koristit ću wash kojeg sam dobio iz obične boje. Na taj način, čitatelj može izabrati koji način mu više odgovara.

	  

	Prvi korak je bojanje u osnovnu boju.

	Lijevo: s obzirom da ću na ovom primjeru koristiti kupovni wash, odlučio sam se za tamniju nijansu boje kože.

	Desno: u ovom primjeru koristit ću boju kao osnovu za wash, tako da sam se odlučio za malo svjetliju nijansu kože – a samim time i svjetliju osnovnu boju.

	  

	Sljedeći korak je stavljanje wash-a.

	Lijevo: Koristim običan, kupovni Reikkland Fleshshade wash.

	Desno: Na kap tamnije nijanse boje kože stavljam dvije kapljice Lahmian Mediuma i kap do dvije vode. Na taj način dobivam vlastiti wash kojeg nanosim slično kao i na lijevom primjeru.

	  

	Zatim ide prvi highlight.

	Lijevo: Nanosim na izdignute dijelove lica osnovnu boju i na taj način dobivam prvi highlight.

	Desno: Jednako kao i u lijevom primjeru, kao prvi highlight koristim osnovnu boju.

	  

	Potom drugi highlight.

	Lijevo: Drugi highlight dobivam mješajući osnovnu boju s nekom svjetlijom nijansom.

	Desno: Pratim isti proces kao i lijevo, uz napomenu da nikada ne koristim čistu bijelu boju za miješanje highlighta, uvijek je to neki off white – s minimalnom količinom nekog pigmenta.

	  

	Predzadnji korak je iscrtavanje obrisa očiju.

	Lijevo: Ovaj korak je identičan u oba slučaja.

	Desno: Nekom off white bojom iscrtam obrise očiju (da si olakšam život, to su najčešće dvije crtice).

	  

	Zadnji korak je dodavanje sjena oko ustiju i očiju.

	Lijevo: U ovom slučaju, možete koristiti tamniji wash poput Nuln Oil ili Druchi Purple.

	Desno: Pomiješao sam crnu i ljubičastu boju te dodao kap dvije Lahmian Mediuma i kad do dvije vode da dobijem tamniji wash te smjesu nanio u očne šupljine pazeći da wash ne dođe na prethodno iscrtane oči.

	I zadnja stvar je ucrtavanje zjenica – samo okomite crtice tamne/crne boje u odnosu na horizontalne svijetle crte za oči.
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Marko Paunović, 20th May 2026

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