RISE - the Necromancer project

Sebastian Søgård, 5th June 2024

For a while I had this Ossiarch Bonereapers miniature, Mortisan Boneshaper, from Age of Sigmar, in my collection of gray plastic, not really knowing what to do with it. I liked the model, bought it to support a local hobby store I visited, but didn’t find any inspiration for it.

Until one day I saw a few kits at Carta Magica and my head started spinning around a new diorama idea - a Necromancer raising undead warriors from their graves. One of these kits was gravestone bits from Green Stuff World, the other was this Spirit Hosts kit, where I suddenly noticed the very fitting skeletons at the base that I never saw before. They were perfect for my idea.

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I started by getting rid of all the spikes on the Boneshaper, as they’re too silly, big and unnecessary for my taste. I cut them off with my hobby knife and covered up the space this left with some brown stuff. I also covered up the very “warhammer-y”, fancy pattern on middle part of his armor, with brown stuff as well.

For the base, I started with a piece of XPS foam cut to the same size as the wooden plinth I knew I wanted to display it on. I superglued several pieces of bark on one side of the base, to elevate the area where my Mortisan Boneshaper, the focal point of the diorama, would be placed. I also mixed superglue with baking soda to create some textures here as well. Then I covered the bark and all the XPS foam with cheap, air-hardening modeling clay from DAS. At this point I also test-fitted all my elements - the graves, the skeletons and some small branches that would eventually serve as streaks of energy (I didn’t know that yet at this point). And I pushed the base of the Mortisan Boneshaper into the clay before it had hardened to make sure it will fit in the future (although I didn’t consider how much this kind of clay shrinks when it dries, so I eventually had to cut out more clay to make the base fit).

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The next step was to blend the graves and skeletons into the rest of the landscape. For this I found that Standard Milliput is perfect. It’s easy to work with and shape, it doesn’t stick as much as brown or green stuff, and only requires a little water to blend it into the landscape.

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My painting plan for this diorama and the miniature, was to work with contrast paints and enamel washes, something I don’t do often, so it would serve as practice. For this reason, I zenithal primed both diorama and miniature, and then covered them in contrast colours. On the diorama, to get a lot of variation in colour tones, I used five different contrast colours, as I knew the later stage of drybrushing would bring them all together. I used warm colour tones for the rocks, landscape and skeletons - red, yellow, warm brown and green - while covering the gravestones in a colder blue colour (I like Citadel Contrast colour Gryph-Charger Grey a lot, as it is subtle, but gives a cold tint). Then I drybrushed everything with several lighter, neutral greys and browns.

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I was happy with how varied in colour the landscape looked after this, but as I had already decided on Streaking Grime enamel as the wash for the whole project, because of a successful test on a General Grievous mini earlier, I went ahead and covered everything in the enamel wash, waited for 15 minutes and began the laborious process of cleaning off most of it with make-up removal brushes from DM that I’ve grown quite fond of (they don’t leave cotton hairs as Q-tips do) and paper towels. On the miniature I was pleased with the result, as the Streaking Grime dirtied down the very flashy yellow colour on the dress, and gave an interesting worn feeling to the bones. Just as my Grievous test had showed me. But as I had never tested this technique on landscapes before, I made a miscalculation. In hindsight I would have left if without the wash, as the contrast colours had already added a nice contrast (duh?) to the diorama. Since the landscape had a lot of tiny textures, from the bark, superglue and baking soda, the enamel wash got stuck deep within the small crevices, and were impossible to get off. This left we with a darker, dirtier, less varied landscape than I wanted, and I took me a long time, and lots of boring steps I won’t get into here, to get some colour variation and interesting tones back into the diorama.

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After highlighting the mini, the skeletons and the graves, it was time to tackle the energy streaks. What was first supposed to be regular branches, I decided to give a strong colour, pretend that they were streaks of energy coming up from the ground all around the Boneshaper as he’s doing his necromancy thing. I had several reasons for deciding on this - 1. the flashy, turquoise colour of the effect would add some nice colour back into a very brown diorama, 2. I hoped the energy streaks would add some dynamism and movement to the diorama, as well as help tell the story better and 3. it would give me a chance to add some subtle OSL in the project. I took inspiration from this artwork I found of the Mortisan Boneshaper.

So I base coloured the energy streaks with white. Then covered them all in two layers of the Citadel Technical paint Nihilakh Oxide.

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Next step was again a Citadel Contrast paint, as this was my go to for the entire project. The one called Aeldari Emerald has a very strong, dark turquoise tone, and only needs one layer to cover anything light enough. So I gave the streaks a coat of this, and then proceeded to drybrush Celestra Grey and Ulthuan Grey in several layers on the streaks, and also on the ground around the streaks. Then another coat of Aeldari Emerald, with a watered down mix used to cover the ground around the streaks for the OSL. Then more drysbrushing, then back to some Nihilakh Oxide to bring in some more midtone again, as the darkness of the Aeldari Emerald became my shadow color, the Ulthuan Grey the brightest highlight, and so the Nihilakh Oxide became the midtone. I repeated these steps until I was happy with the outcome, as well as adding a Spirit Host painted in the same scheme. This was originally just a test model for the colour scheme, but it eventually found its way into the diorama.

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At this point I was quite happy with the diorama, but felt like something was missing. Some colour in the brown, dirt ground was still lacking, and since it’s a rather large diorama, I wanted to pack it with as much story as possible. I had recently bought some 3D printed spiders from Green Stuff World, and had the idea to paint them quite colourful, as well as have them running towards the necromancer, solving both problems; they would give some more colour to the ground, and help sell the “story” that the Boneshaper is controlling so much energy in this necromancy ritual, that all the spiders in the area are attracted to him. I found a picture of different spiders online, and decided on the one on the bottom line, second from left, as I thought the colour would complement the diorama nicely.

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So after about a month of on-and-off work on the diorama, I had this result:

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Latest articles

  • Miniature Painting Workshop - 75mm Dwarf
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    On 09-10.05.2026. we held a new weekend miniature painting workshop. This time it was the turn of a dwarf in 75mm scale.

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    The workshop was held over two days (a whole weekend) and the participants painted a 75mm miniature dwarf. The focus of these lectures was painting various textures - metal, human skin, textiles and leather. Water-based acrylic paints were used in the workshop. For this purpose, the workshop leader, Ivan Knezović, chose a 75mm miniature dwarf from Durgin Paint Forge, sculpted by Carlos Perez Bugedo. The lectures were adapted so that the leader devotes equal time to all participants and can be adapted to all categories of miniaturists (from beginners to slightly more advanced).

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    The workshop took place as follows:
    First, the lecturer sits at his desk and explains and demonstrates each step in painting a miniature/model on his specimen. His work is displayed on a screen via a camera and projector, which the participants listen to, watch, and ask questions about.
    Then, the participants sit at their desks and apply the knowledge they have gained. The facilitator circulates among the participants and checks how each participant is doing. This way, he or she can adapt to each participant individually.

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    The workshop will include the following thematic units:
    1. NMM (Non metallic metal)
    2. Reflections of ambient colors on metal
    3. Steel / gold
    4. Face painting (male)
    5. Adding vibrancy to the face (filters)
    6. Extracting textures from fabric, metal and leather

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    POWERED BY: Carta MagicaFireball FigurinesDurgin Paint ForgePlaysupport

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    09-10.05.2026. smo održali novu vikend Radionicu bojanja minijatura. Ovoga puta na redu je bio patuljak u 75mm mjerilu.

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    Radionica se provodila kroz dva dana (cijeli vikend) i polaznici su bojali 75mm minijaturu patuljka. Fokus ovih predavanja bilo je bojenje raznih tekstura – od metala, ljudske kože, tekstila i kože (leather). U sklopu radionice korištene su akrilne boje na bazi vode. U tu svrhu, voditelj radionice, Ivan Knezović, izabrao je 75 mm minijaturu patuljka tvrtke Durgin Paint Forge, koju je sculptao Carlos Perez Bugedo. Predavanja su prilagođena tako da voditelj posveti jednako vrijeme svim polaznicima i može se prilagoditi svim kategorijama minijaturista (od početnika do malo naprednijih).

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    Radionica se odvijala na sljedeći način:
    Prvo, predavač sjedi za svojim stolom te objašnjava i demonstrira pojedini korak u bojanju minijature/makete na svojem primjerku. Njegov rad se preko kamere i projektora prikazuje na platnu što polaznici slušaju, gledaju, ali i postavljaju pitanja.
    Potom, polaznici sjedaju za svoje stolove i primjenjuju stečeno znanje. Voditelj kruži između polaznika i provjerava kako svakom polazniku ide. Na taj način, može se prilagoditi svakom polazniku ponaosob.

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    Radionica će uključivati sljedeće tematske cjeline:
    1. NMM (Non metallic metal)
    2. Refleksije boja iz okoline na metalu
    3. Čelik / zlato
    4. Bojanje lica (muškog)
    5. Dodavanje živosti na lice (filteri)
    6. Izvlačenje tekstura tkanine, metala i kože (leather)

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    POWERED BY: Carta MagicaFireball FigurinesDurgin Paint ForgePlaysupport

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    Ivan Knezović, 26th May 2026
  • We visited: Festival Svet v Malem 2026, Pivka, Slovenia
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    On May 23, 2026, we participated in the international plastic model making competition Festival Svet v Malem 2026 in Pivka, Slovenia.

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    The competition is traditionally held at the Military History Park in Pivka.

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    23. svibnja 2026. sudjelovali smo na međunarodnom natjecanju u plastičnom maketarstvu Festival Svet v Malem 2026 u Pivki u Sloveniji. 

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    Natjecanje se tradicionalno održava u Parku vojne povijesti u Pivki.

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    Krunoslav Belinić, 26th May 2026
  • We visited: KupKA 2026
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    On May 16, 2026, we participated in the international plastic model making competition KupKA held at the Museum of the Homeland War in Karlovac.

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    The competition was organized by the Slavoljub Penkala Modeling Club from Zagreb.

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    Thanks to the organizer for an interesting competition, to the judges for some medals, and especially to my colleagues from the Maketarski Club Novi Sad - IPMS Serbia for the medal!

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    16. svibnja 2026. sudjelovali smo na međunarodnom natjecanju u plastičnom maketarstvu KupKA održanom u Muzeju domovinskog rata u Karlovcu.

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    Natjecanje je organizirao Maketarski klub Slavoljub Penkala iz Zagreba

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    Hvala organizatoru na zanimljivom natjecanju, sucima na ponešto medalja, a pogotovo kolegama iz Maketarskog Kluba Novi Sad - IPMS Srbija na medalji!

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    Marko Paunović, 26th May 2026
  • Back to Basics Workshops in Gallery VN
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    In May 2026 we held our Back To Basics miniature painting workshops for the youngest in Gallery VN.

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    The workshops were completely FREE for all participants!

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    The Back to Basics method is a method of making models and miniatures that focuses on a fun process intended for younger ages, but everyone is welcome! In three separate sessions on Thursdays, participants (aged 7+) painted miniatures of their choice (knight, princess, king, wizard and barbarian). 

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    1st session: Painting miniatures of choice, Thursday, 07.05. - from 18:00 to 19:00

    2nd session: Painting a miniature of your choice, Thursday, 14.05. - from 18:00 to 19:00

    3rd session: Painting a miniature of your choice, Thursday, 21.05. - from 18:00 to 19:00

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    U svibnju 2026. održali smo naše Back To Basics radionice za najmlađe u Galeriji i čitaonici VN.

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    Radionice su bile BESPLATNE za sve polaznike!

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    Back to Basics metoda je metoda izrade maketa i minijatura kojoj je fokus na zabavnom procesu namjenjenom mlađim uzrastima, ali svi su dobrodošli! U tri zasebna termina četvrtkom, polaznici (od 7+) su bojali minijature po izboru (vitez, princeza, kralj, čarobnjak i barbarin).

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    1. termin: Bojenje minijature po izboru, četvrtak, 07.05. - od 18:00 do 19:00

    2. termin: Bojenje minijature po izboru, četvrtak, 14.05. - od 18:00 do 19:00

    3. termin: Bojenje minijature po izboru, četvrtak, 21.05. - od 18:00 do 19:00

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    Krunoslav Belinić, 26th May 2026
  • Painting Faces at Tabletop Level
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    In this short article, I will describe two ways to paint faces on a so-called tabletop standard. The text follows two versions of the painting. One will use a store-bought wash, and in the second, slightly less contrasting one, I will use a wash that I got from regular paint. This way, the reader can choose which method suits them better.

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    The first step is to dye the base color.

    Left: Since I'm going to use a store-bought wash in this example, I decided to go for a darker shade of skin tone.

    Right: In this example, I'm going to use the color as a base for the wash, so I decided to go for a slightly lighter skin tone - and therefore a lighter base color.

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    The next step is to apply the wash.

    Left: I use a regular, store-bought Reikkland Fleshshade wash.

    Right: On a drop of the darker skin tone, I add two drops of Lahmian Medium and a drop or two of water. This creates my own wash, which I apply similarly to the example on the left.

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    Then comes the first highlight.

    Left: I apply the base color to the raised parts of the face and thus get the first highlight.

    Right: Just like in the example on the left, I use the base color as the first highlight.

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    Then the second highlight.

    Left: I get the second highlight by mixing the base color with a lighter shade.

    Right: I follow the same process as on the left, with the caveat that I never use pure white to mix the highlight, it's always an off white – with a minimal amount of some pigment.

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    The penultimate step is to outline the eyes.

    Left: This step is identical in both cases.

    Right: I outline the eyes with some off-white paint (to make my life easier, it's usually two lines).

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    The last step is to add shadows around the mouth and eyes.

    Left: In this case, you can use a darker wash like Nuln Oil or Druchi Purple.

    Right: I mixed black and purple and added two drops of Lahmian Medium and a drop or two of water to create a darker wash, then applied the mixture to the eye sockets, making sure not to get the wash on the previously drawn eyes.

    And the last thing is drawing the pupils – just vertical lines of dark/black color against the horizontal light lines for the eyes.

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    U ovom kratkom članku, opisat ću dva načina za bojanje lica na takozvanom tabletop standardu. Tekst prati dvije verzije bojanja. Jedna će koristiti kupovni wash, a u drugoj, malo manje kontrastnoj koristit ću wash kojeg sam dobio iz obične boje. Na taj način, čitatelj može izabrati koji način mu više odgovara.

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    Prvi korak je bojanje u osnovnu boju.

    Lijevo: s obzirom da ću na ovom primjeru koristiti kupovni wash, odlučio sam se za tamniju nijansu boje kože.

    Desno: u ovom primjeru koristit ću boju kao osnovu za wash, tako da sam se odlučio za malo svjetliju nijansu kože – a samim time i svjetliju osnovnu boju.

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    Sljedeći korak je stavljanje wash-a.

    Lijevo: Koristim običan, kupovni Reikkland Fleshshade wash.

    Desno: Na kap tamnije nijanse boje kože stavljam dvije kapljice Lahmian Mediuma i kap do dvije vode. Na taj način dobivam vlastiti wash kojeg nanosim slično kao i na lijevom primjeru.

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    Zatim ide prvi highlight.

    Lijevo: Nanosim na izdignute dijelove lica osnovnu boju i na taj način dobivam prvi highlight.

    Desno: Jednako kao i u lijevom primjeru, kao prvi highlight koristim osnovnu boju.

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    Potom drugi highlight.

    Lijevo: Drugi highlight dobivam mješajući osnovnu boju s nekom svjetlijom nijansom.

    Desno: Pratim isti proces kao i lijevo, uz napomenu da nikada ne koristim čistu bijelu boju za miješanje highlighta, uvijek je to neki off white – s minimalnom količinom nekog pigmenta.

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    Predzadnji korak je iscrtavanje obrisa očiju.

    Lijevo: Ovaj korak je identičan u oba slučaja.

    Desno: Nekom off white bojom iscrtam obrise očiju (da si olakšam život, to su najčešće dvije crtice).

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    Zadnji korak je dodavanje sjena oko ustiju i očiju.

    Lijevo: U ovom slučaju, možete koristiti tamniji wash poput Nuln Oil ili Druchi Purple.

    Desno: Pomiješao sam crnu i ljubičastu boju te dodao kap dvije Lahmian Mediuma i kad do dvije vode da dobijem tamniji wash te smjesu nanio u očne šupljine pazeći da wash ne dođe na prethodno iscrtane oči.

    I zadnja stvar je ucrtavanje zjenica – samo okomite crtice tamne/crne boje u odnosu na horizontalne svijetle crte za oči.

    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2026-05-20 10:46:57" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2026-05-20 10:46:57" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "35" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "1" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Marko" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Paunović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "marko" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "paunovic" ["username"]=> string(5) "marko" ["password"]=> string(40) "3bd37b326d19d1880d3b93a4b32e8fb3a90fa122" ["born"]=> string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03" } }
    Marko Paunović, 20th May 2026

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