UMS "Agram" : PIRATE'S COVE GAMING BOARD – pt.2 < Articles < Hobby

PIRATE'S COVE GAMING BOARD – pt.2

Marko Paunović, 22nd August 2020

This article finds the second and final part of the step by step tutorial of the building process of a gaming board for a board game called Pirate's Cove that my club's (terrain workshop did a couple of years ago.

The Design:

In the previous article, Andrija and I made the basic outline of the board with the frame, ran the wires underneath the board and made all the ships. The next thing, before the actual build, would be to have all the electronics installed so the terrain could be built around it. Before installment, we needed to check all the calculations and agree on the final layout of all the features.

Electronics:

In this model we decided to fit the smoke generator (hereinafter - fogger), and in every house an LED would be built in order to evoke the effect of burning lamps or candles. As the power source for the board we chose the electricity from the grid which meant 220V AC current (in Croatia). Therefore the alternating current must be mentioned here, since the fogger is powered via the adapter from the city grid. The adapter which goes with the fogger changes AC 220V current to 24V AC also. (NOTE: If the device transforms the current from 220V AC to 24V DC for example, it is then called the transformer - author's note).

The advantage of using city power grid (ie adapters and transformers) is that there is no concern about the consumption of electricity, namely, no batteries which could be spent.

Since the LEDs are working exclusively on DC, it was necessary to connect the LED circuitry in parallel with the fogger. Apart from the fogger branch, we needed to extract one branch to go through Graetz bridge which would be connected to all the LED circuitry. As explained in a previous issue, Graetz combination (ie single-phase full-wave rectifier) only corrects the voltage, but it does not ''straighten'' it. In order to straighten the voltage it is necessary to add an RC circuit. In this gaming board, that was not necessary to make because the local electrical grid works on frequency f = 50 Hz (meaning that the voltage is sinusoidal and makes 50 cycles per second). Using a single-phase full-wave rectifier that frequency doubles, so the frequency is 100Hz. The human eye does not notice the higher frequency of 20Hz. What does this mean exactly? That our LED will be flashing 100 times per second, but you will not notice it. Indeed, it will look as if the LED were constantly lit. It should be noted that Graetz circuit losses of approximately 10% and that voltage 24V DC will therefore be around 22V DC.

The calculation of the LED circuits is relatively simple because there is a lot of repetition. Each branch (except Crew Island) looks the same and as far as the resistance calculation runs as follows:

and for Crew Island:

Here we calculate the electrical power in each branch :

which is relatively high power. It is no surprise when one considers the fact that the resistor reduces the voltage for 20V! This information is important when choosing the resistor, because when you buy it, you will need to emphasize that you are looking for such a powerful resistor. For the Crew Island two resistors of 50Ω and 0.04 W are required

This result is also not surprising because the resistor reduces the voltage for only 2V, and through it flows a current of 20mA.

We now return to the beginning - the adapter, which in this case has Imax=1200mA. The next step is to add all the currents in the branches.

So, to run all the LEDs you need 240mA which leaves 960mA for fogger to work, which after testing with a multimeter showed that is enough. If it were not,the calculation should be revised.

Finally, the elements needed for this project are:
• Fogger (with adapter AC 220V → 24V AC)
• 2 pairs of male-female Jack's
• Graetz bridge
• 7 switches
• 10 R = 1kΩ resistor R, P = 0.5 W
• 2 R = 50Ω resistor
• 27 LEDs (yellow, 3mm)
• 2 LEDs (red, 5mm → Treasure Island, the eyes of the skull)
• 1 LED (red, 3mm → Tavern Island, the upper floor tavern)
• a minimum of 10m of wire.

The Continuation of the Build

Once the electronics were installed and the Graetz bridge was prodected inside a box that was made from balsa wood, we did a test run. The LEDs indeed did not flicker, the volcano produced the fog and we could proceed with the terrain build.

The first island we tackled was Crew Island. We decided to have a small sea town with a town hall and a church with a graveyard on a hill. The streets of the town were made from plastic pieces of a 1/72 medieval castle. The buildings were built by Andrija from 1,5mm thick balsa wood and thin card. The window shutters were about 1x1mm in size and were each cut from a piece of paper. We placed most of the buildings on top of 3mm yellow LEDs that were drilled through the bottom of the plastic street construction.

The fortress on Gun Island was done from the same medieval castle plastic kit. Sides of the octogonal bastions were carefully cut using a scalpel blade. The guns were salvaged from a Revell plastic ship. To finish the job, we placed a chain at the port entrance.

The body of all the islands was made from 2cm thick HD styrofoam. The beaches, cliffs and the rest of the features were modelled from air drying clay (DAS). The piers were done from 2mm thick balsa wood. Once the clay and PVA glue were dry, the islands were coated in watered down PVA glue. The top surfaces were sprinkled over with coarser sand while the beaches were covered with smallest grain sand we could find. In this case, it was chinchilla sand from a local pet shop.

With this, most of the islands were done. All that was left was to do the Pirate's Cove island and make a removable volcano. We had to make the volcano removable to make it possible to fill and empty the vessel for the water that the fogger uses to make fog. If we left the board in one piece, it would have been impossible to empty the tank which would eventually cause the formation of calk or something even worse. Again, the body of the island was built by HD styrofoam. Using styrofoam boards made it possible to have a straight cut between the island and the removable volcano. Once the island part of styrofoam was dry, the tank was placed in its spot and around it another layer of styrofoam was placed and glued to the tank from the top side. Once it was dry, we made the island and volcano features following the same procedure as we did for the rest of the islands using DAS air drying clay. Once it was dry, we textured it with sand (two different sizes).

The islands were painted using Pebeo Deco colours (Black, Brown, Ochre, Ash, White and Grey) and flocked using static grass. The trees were made from twisted wire trees bought on Ebay. When the islands were done, I painted the seas. As I wanted the blue to be really bright, I used a white undercoat that was hand painted using a large brush as I didn't want to risk botching up the rest of the work by accidental spillage by using sprey/air brush. After it was done, I mixed several shades of blue (by mixing Pebeo Deco White and Blue). Each progressive layer had more Blue in it. Before pouring in the resin, we decided to make a compass with a club sign. The painted design on a piece of paper was simply cut out and glued using watered down PVA glue. All that was needed was to mix the resin and pour it in carefully. For this, we used Gedeo Crystal Resin. A quick calculation revealed that we needed 600ml of resin in order to make the water 1,5-2mm deep. Carefully we mixed the two part resin (mixing ratio is 2:1 vol which makes it easy to work with). Once the mixture was fully mixed I added a couple of drops of Pebeo Vitrail Sky Blue colour. Be careful when mixing, because you can easily overdo it and be left with too dark a resin.

After a drying period of about 24 hours, the board was done and we could present it to the guys from the club!

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Krunoslav Belinić, 30th October 2026

Agram Group Build #7 – Amon Hen, pt.6

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	As we announced, this time we are starting with the painting process. The first step was applying a black primer (via spray), followed by white to highlight the details.

	  

	  

	Next came the painting of the terrain. As always, we used a palette of brown and gray paints from the Pebeo Deco brand. These are acrylic paints—relatively affordable and quite thick—which allow for easy coverage or a quick drybrush, should the need arise. We started with the brown tones, beginning with the darker shades and finishing with the lighter ones.

	  

	  

	  

	Next, we highlighted the stone surfaces with black paint, then lightened them using shades of gray, ranging from darker to lighter tones. We left the temple and the statues covered only with the spray paints applied in the first step.

	  

	  

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	Zatim smo kamene plohe istaknuli crnom bojom i onda posvjetljavali sivim nijansama od tamnijih do svijetlijih. Hram i kipove smo ostavili prekrivene samo sprejevima iz prvog koraka.

	  

	  

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	Složio ih je i maknuo tabove za baze. Sljedeći put nastavlja s drugom polovicom.

	  

	  
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Marko Paunović, 22nd October 2026

Lizardmen Sauropod – part 1

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	While printing a sauropod model—which I intended to use for a kitbash of a Lizardmen Bastiladon—one of the printed torsos ended up with defects in the legs. Around the same time, I was playing Pokémon Crystal; having fallen in love with some of the concepts in that game, I decided to merge the two worlds into one.

	  

	Taking the Pokémon Meganium as a starting concept, I wanted to create a dinosaur on a large base emerging from a lake, surrounded by skinks that are grooming it.

	  

	To achieve this, I decided to cut off the lower part of the torso—excluding the legs—position the model so it "lies" on the base, place a couple of Skinks around it, and pour resin over the base to create the effect of lake water.

	  

	The first step was to create flower petals around the dinosaur's neck. I used slightly thicker paper, cut into the shape of petals. Afterward, I glued them together with super glue to form a flower shape. I coated each petal with wood glue—applying about 6 layers—to set them into a form that would be both flexible and sturdy enough for painting. I applied each coat using a small brush, with outward strokes, to create texture on the surfaces of the petals.

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	Preparation for painting was the easier part of the job; the primer used was a light-grey spray, followed by a single coat of a purple 'contrast' paint. After that, I dry-brushed the entire model with white. This created a strange, sickly base for the subsequent layers of green. This concludes the first part of the tutorial; in the second part, I will continue with painting, casting resin, and adding the final details to the model.

	  
"
    ["content_hrv"]=>
    string(3240) "
	Prilikom printa modela sauropoda kojeg sam mislio koristiti za kitbash Lizardmen modela bastiladona, ostao je jedan printani model trupa sa greškama u nogama. U slično vrijeme sam igrao Pokemon Crystal i obožavajući neke od koncepata u toj igri, odlučio sam spojiti dva svijeta u jedan.

	  

	Uzevši pokemona Meganium-a kao početni koncept, želio sam napraviti dinosaura na velikoj bazi koji izranja iz jezera, okruženog skinkovima koji ga timare.

	  

	Da bih to izveo, odlučio sam odrezati donji dio trupa bez nogu, postaviti model da "leži" na bazi, postaviti par skinkova oko njega i preliti bazu sa rezinom kako bih stvorio efekt jezerske vode.

	  

	Prvi korak je bio napraviti latice cvijeta oko vrata dinosura. Koristio sam malo deblji papir, izrezan u oblik latice. Nakon toga sam ih zalijepio super ljepilom u oblik cvijeta. Premazao sam svaki list drvofixom u cca 6 slojeva, kako bih učvrstio listove u formu u kojoj će biti elastični i čvrsti za bojanje. Sve premaze sam radio s manjim kistom potezima prema van, kako bih stvorio teksturu na stranicama latica.

	Trup dinosaura sam zalijepio na bazu sa superljepilom i zapunio rupe.

	  

	Priprema za bojanje je bila lakši dio posla, primer je bio svijetlosivi sprej, sa jednim slojem ljubičaste contrast boje. Nakon toga sam drybrushem bijele prekrio cijrli model. Ovime sam dobio čudnu bolesnjikavu bazu za slojeve zelene. Ovime završavam prvi dio tutoriala, nastavljam u drugom sa bojanjem i lijevanjem rezinske mase, uz završne detalje modela.

	  
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Mario Grgurev, 19th October 2026

Agram Group Build #7 – Amon Hen, pt.5

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    ["title_eng"]=>
    string(39) "Agram Group Build #7 – Amon Hen, pt.5"
    ["title_hrv"]=>
    string(40) "Agram Group Build #7 – Amon Hen, dio 5"
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    string(32) "agram_group_build_7_amon_hen_pt5"
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	Agram Group Build is back. For this seventh installment, the team decided to create a gaming board/diorama for Amon Hen. To that end, we fulfilled a childhood dream and acquired the original Forge World Amon Hen terrain (released around 2000) along with the accompanying set of miniatures. This series of articles will document the entire project—from crafting the terrain to assembling and painting the miniatures.

	  

	The plan last time was to also build a balsa wood frame, but unfortunately, the balsa got misplaced during the move following the renovation of the space, so we had to postpone it. Now, it’s time to get it done.

	  

	We cut the balsa wood into four 50 cm pieces. Afterward, we measured the highest points of each side, marked the balsa accordingly, and cut it to the desired dimensions.

	  

	  

	Then we traced the relief onto the balsa frame and carefully cut it out.

	  

	The final step was cutting each corner at a 45-degree angle to create a neat frame joint.

	  

	Next came the gluing of the frame. We bonded the sides using PVA glue, while the joints where one frame side met another were secured with superglue.

	  

	We filled the gaps between the balsa wood frame and the terrain we created last time with DAS modeling clay.

	  

	Finally, we coated the top surfaces of the frame and the air-drying clay infill with PVA glue, and sprinkled over it the same sand we had used for the rest of the board.

	  

	And that’s it for this time. Next week, it’s time for painting.

	  

	 
"
    ["content_hrv"]=>
    string(4765) "
	Agram Group Build se vraća. U svojoj sedmoj instalaciji, ekipa je odlučila izraditi igraću tablu / dioramu za Amon Hen. Za tu potrebu, ispunili smo si dječačke sne i nabavili originalni Forge World teren Amon Hena (izašao negdje cca 2000.) sa setom pripadajućih figura. Ova serija članaka pratit će izradu cijelog projekta – kako izrade terena, tako i sastavljanja i bojanja figura.

	  

	Plan za prošli put bio je da napravimo i okvir od balze, ali na žalost u selidbi nakon renovacije prostora, negdje smo zagubili balzu tako da smo to odgodili. Sad je došao red na to.

	  

	Odrezali smo balzu na četiri komada od 50cm. Nakon toga izmjerili smo najviše dijelove pojedine strane i tako označili balzu te ju prerezali na željene dimenzije.

	  

	  

	Potom smo ucrtali reljef na okvir od balze i pažljivo ga izrezali.

	  

	Zadnji korak bilo je zarezivanje svakog kuta pod 45 stupnjeva tako da dobijemo uredan spoj okvira.

	  

	Tada je uslijedilo lijepljenje okvira. Stranice smo zalijepili PVA ljepilom dok smo spojeve stranice okvira na drugu stranicu okvira zalijepili superljepilom.

	  

	U rupe između okvira od balze i terena kojeg smo napravili prošli put ubacili smo DAS glinamol.

	  

	Na kraju smo gornje plohe okvira i popune od glinamola premazali PVA ljepilom te na to posipali isti pijesak koji smo koristili za ostatak table.

	  

	I to je bilo to za ovaj put. Sljedećeg tjedna ide bojanje.

	  
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