Foto album izrade diorame In the Ghetto

Marko Paunović, 27.03.2020.

Tijekom ovog razdoblja socijalnog distanciranja uzrokovanog virusom COVID-19, nastojat ćemo objaviti što više tutoriala (korak-po-korak) i hobby članaka koje su izradili naši članovi ili članovi FB grupe Miniature Painters Croatia.

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Ovo je foto album koji prati izradu diorame pod nazivom In the Ghetto. Dioramu je izradio Marko Paunović i ona je osvojila prvo mjesto u kategoriji Duel/Diorama na ovogodišnjem natjecanju Black Queen Hobby and Miniature Painting Competition.

Zgrada i baza su izrađeni iz betona i gipsa. Svi detalji, poput ograde, šahta su nastali u samoizradnji bilo lijevanjem, skulpturiranjem ili nekim drugim oblikom samoizrade iz žice. Neki detalji su dijelovi iz Mini Art Models setova (boce), naljepnice su većinom od tvrtke Fallout Hobbies. Većina "weathering" efekata su napravljena pomoću ulja, oilbrusher-a, wash-eva i pigmenata firme Ammo by Mig Jimenez. Ostali pigmenti su od Model Display Products.

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Najnoviji članci

  • Korak po korak – Izrada diorame s chibi steampunk podmornicom dio 1
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        string(57) "Step by Step – Chibi Steampunk Submarine Diorama part 1"
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    In this series of articles, I will guide you through the build of my Chibi Steampunk Submarine diorama.

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    U ovoj seriji članaka, vodit ću vas kroz proces izrade diorame sa chibi steampunk podmornicom.

    Dioramu sam odlučio smjestiti u okvir za slike koji sam nabavio u Ikei. Trebalo ga je malo izmijeniti jer sam htio iskoristiti punu dubinu okvira. Da bih to postigao, morao sam tako postaviti pozadinu da dolazi do donjeg ruba okvira. Prije nego što sam ga zalijepio, obojao sam dno i unutarnju stranu okvira u plave boje (s obzirom da će podmornica ploviti kroz more koje ću izraditi od dvokomponentnog rezina). 

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    Pozadinu (odn. obojano dno) sam zalijepio PVA ljepilom i pustio da se osuši. Kada se osušilo ljepilo, isprobao sam da li je baza sa dnom vodonepropusna. Najlakše je odnijeti ju u kupaonicu i provjeriti u lavabou. Na sreću, spojevi nisu propuštali.

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    Dok se ljepilo sušilo, posprejao sam model podmornice u srebrni sprej. I naravno, zaboravio fotografirati.

    Kad se sprej osušio, podmornicu sam prebojao sa tri uljna efekta od Ammo by Mig Jimenez: Track Wash, Streaking Rust Effects i Light Rust Wash. Potom sam cijelu podmornicu nasumično prekrio sa dva efekta za guljenje boje istog proizvođača: Heavy Chipping Effect i Scratches Effects.

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    Pričekao sam desetak minuta (nikako nemojte dopustiti da se efekti skroz osuše) i posprejao cijeli model u žuto (GW sprej Averland Sunset). Pustio sam da se malo osuši (5-10minuta) i onda mokrom vatom, odn. štapićem za uši skidao višak boje.

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    Kada sam bio gotov s tim korakom, taman je i baza bila suha pa sam mogao isprobati kako cijeli koncept funkcionira sa svim akterima.

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    Sljedeći korak je bilo dodavanje tonova weatheringa – u ovom slučaju, kako boja blijedi. Odlučio sam to odraditi s uljnim bojama. Tehnika se sastoji od nasumičnog nanošenja točkica uljnih boja u nekoliko nijansi (Oilbrusheri tvrtke Ammo by Mig Jimenez: White, Yellow, Light Flesh i Dark Brown) te njihovog razmazivanja i uklanjanja korištenjem Enamel Odourless Thinnera nanoseći ga ravnim kistom. Umočite ravni kist u Thinner te ga osušite na papirnatoj salveti da bude samo blago vlažan. Takvim kistom krenite razmazivati točkice u smjeru u kojem voda odnosno atmosferilije teku/cure.

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    Na kraju ćete imati lagano nijansiranje osnovne boje (žute) s čime ćete dobiti bitno uvjerljiviji konačni proizvod.

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    Sljedeći put ćemo nastaviti sa weatheringom podmornice te izradom otoka i kad ga dovršimo, uslijedit će uljevanje rezina.

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    Marko Paunović, 05.07.2020.
  • Priprema i bojenje Merchant's Shop rezinskog terena hrvatske tvrtke Tabletop World
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    I. Preparation and Assembly

    When working on a resin model, begin by cleaning any flash and mould lines from the castings with your modelling knife, file and/or sandpaper. Once you are satisfied with the cleanup, wash all resin pieces with dishwashing liquid and warm water so the mould release agent is removed. Rinse thoroughly. Allow the parts to fully air dry before moving on. Resin kits may have small air bubbles, which must be filled with modelling putty. Apply a light coat primer.

    The Merchant's Shop pieces had next to nothing to clean up, and no bubble holes I could find. I washed it s per instructions and primed it black.

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    This piece of terrain is made so that the roof and the storeys are removable, enabling models to enter the house during a game. The entire interior is detailed, with wooden floors, plastered walls, doors and windows. The house can be all glued together if one so wishes, or left as it is. The only part that actually has to be glued is the balcony, but I decided to leave that till after the painting since it would prevent me from reaching the door that’s behind it.

    With everything cleaned up and primed, I moved on to painting.

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    II. Stone

    Since the most of the house's surface is stone, this was the first thing to paint. All of it first got a coat of Citadel Mechanicus Standard Grey. I decided to paint some of the stones in a lighter colour, to make it look more natural and visually interesting. So I picked some stones and gave them a coat of 2:1 Citadel Rakhart Flesh and Mechanicus Standard Grey. To highlight both of the stone colour variants, I just added some more Rakhart Flesh to each mix. The next step was a wash of Citadel Agrax Earthshade diluted with Lahmian Medium. When this was completely dry, I slightly drybrushed ach stone with Citadel Ceramite White (very, very dry) to accentuate the stone's texture.

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    III. Wood

    The wood too has a very pronounced texture, with deep grooves. This sort of surface lends itself well to drybrushing, so if a person wishes to paint this up quickly it can be done that way. However, I wanted to avoid the overly messy look drybrushing brings.

    For most of the wooden surfaces my process was the same, but with slightly different colours depending on the area.

    I'll explain the general idea on this first storey door. The basecoat was Citadel Gorthor Brown (two coats were necessary to get solid colour). This got a wash of Agrax Earthshade. The next step was a lighter mix , some Citadel Mournfang Brown with Vallejo Cobra Leather. This coat was applied with the flat of my brush, following the direction of the wood grain- and the paint was caught mainly on the raised surfaces. This was followed by a couple highlights with more and more Cobra Leather. These were applied with a smaller brush, following the direction of the wood grain. The final highlight has a bit of Rakhart Flesh mixed in.

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    When the wood of the door was finished, I repainted all the metal bits- the doorknob, the metal railing and the nails black. After a solid coat of Citadel Ironbreaker, I washed first Agrax Earthshade and then Citadel Nuln Oil. When this was dry, I added highlights of Runefang Steel. Done.

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    The beams, other doors and window frames and panes were done in much the same manner . There are plenty of nails scattered all over these, so one has to be careful not to miss any of them.

    For the wooden shingles on the roof I went towards more reddish browns; starting from a 1:1 mix of Mournfang Brown and Gorthor Brown, and going up to a mix of Skrag Brown with Vallejo Cobra Leather.

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    IV. Plastered wall

    Small bits of wall on the exterior, and all oft he walls inside the house have this sort of finish. I basecoated those areas Rakhart Flesh. It took me three or four coats here, since I worked over a black undercoat. To highlight it, I mixed the basecoat colour with Ceramite White (1:1) straight out of the pot, without any water added. These surfaces are textured as well, so the paint caught up on the raised parts. I defined the edges around the cracks a bit more with an almost pure white. Before moving on, I tidied up a bit. Where different surfaces meet I put a thin black line, and where I accidentally got some white on wood or stone I went back and fixed that.

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    V. Details

    Windows- the basecoat was a mixture of a light grey with just a little Citadel Sybarite Green (some tint was good to set apart the windows from the similarly grey stone). I went from this up to white on each glass of the window. On the windows that have a metal grid I carefully painted it black and then Runefang Steel. I must say the windows on the inside are mighty difficult to reach.

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    Decorative Metal- the grotesque face and the cross on the house's front and back were done to look like patinated bronze. Thanks to Citadel Nihilakh Oxide technical paint, this was done in two easy steps. First, the two were repainted black, since they got painted over back when I did the plaster. A basecoat of an appropriate colour I mixed myself out of various metallics I had around, followed by a generous amount of the aforementioned Nihilakh Oxide.

    Chimney- for the chimney I used the same metal mixture as for the cross and the monstrous face. But I wanted it to have a blackened, sooty finish. So first I dabbed Citadel Typhus Corrosion on it, and then I brushed on some Exhaust Black pigment from Secret Weapon. I also put some of this pigment on the surrounding rooftiles.

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    Painted door- to add some more spot colour, I decided that the front door will be greenish, with a kind of peeled paint effect. So over the wood of the door I had already painted, I put a coat of Citadel Waagh! Flesh. I left the edges of the door, where the paint would first start peeling, the original wood colour. I proceeded to highlight this up to Sybarite Green. I hand-painted the cracked paint with a detail brush on and near the edges of the green area.

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    VI. Finishing touches

    I added some leaves on the stairs and clumps of moss one the stone in a few places near the ground.

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    When all was finally done I sealed it with a matt varnish to protect the paintjob. Otherwise it would surely be damaged during play.

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    I. Priprema i sastavljanje

    Kod sastavljanja rezinskih modela, potrebno je očistiti srhove i ostale nesavršenosti koje su posljedica procesa lijevanja. To se radi nožem, turpijom I/ili brusnim papirom. Rezinski modeli mogu imati rupice nastale od mjehurića zraka zarobljenih tokom lijevanja. Njih je potrebno popuniti modelarskom masom. Idući je korak pranje dijelova u toploj vodi s detergentom kako bi se dijelovi odmastili. Dobro isprati I ostaviti da se potpuno osuši prije nanošenja primera (temeljne boje).

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    Dijelovi u ovom setu nisu imali mnogo za čistiti niti sam pronašla mjehuriće koje bi trebalo zapuniti. Oprala sam dijelove i posprejala ih u crno primerom u spreju.

    Na ovom komadu terena krov i katovi odvojivi da bi omogućili ulazak u zgradu tokom igre. Cijeli je interijer detaljno izmodeliran: drveni podovi, zidovi, vrata i prozori. Jedini dio koji se mora zalijepiti jest mali kameni balkon, no ja sam ga ostavila odvojenog do samog kraja jer bi mi priječio prilazak balkonskim vratima i ne bi ih mogla obojiti.

    Kad sam sve očistila i posprejala, krenula sam na samo bojenje.

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    II. Kamen

    Budući da je većina površine kuće kamen, to je bilo prvo što sam obojila. Prvo je sav kamen dobio premaz sa Citadel Mechanicus Standard Grey. Odlučila sam obojiti pojedine kamene svjetlijom bojom (2:1 Citadel Rakhart Flesh and Mechanicus Standard Grey), da bi ikuća izgledala prirodnije i interesantnije. Obje varijante su highlightane dodavanjem Rakharth Flesh u prvobitnu boju. Sljedeći korak je bio wash Agrax Earthshade razrijeđen Lahmian Mediumom. Kad se wash potpuno osušio lagano sam drybrushala kamen bijelom bojom kako bi se istaknula tekstura kamena.

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    III. Drvo

    I drvo ima izraženu teksturu. Takva površina je savršena za tehniku drybrusha, pa ako želite brzo obojiti ovaj teren to je tehnika savršena za to. Ja sam željela izbjeći zbrzani izgled drybrushanog terena pa sam krenula duljim putem.

    Većina drvenih površina na kući obojeno je istim procesom, ali malo drukčijim bojama ovisno o čemu se radilo. Pokazati ću proces na jednim vratima.

    Basecoat je bio Citadel Gorthor Brown (dva premaza da i se dobila jednolična boja). Na to je išao wash Agrax Earthshade. Nakon sušenja napravila sam svjetliji miks: Citadel Mournfang Brown s Vallejo Cobra Leather. Taj highlight je nanesen sa stranom kista i u smjeru godova. Boja se uhvatila na izbočinama kao kod drybrusha, ali je efekt manje neuredan. Dodano je još nekoliko highlighta manjim kistom, svaki put s više Cobra Leather u mješavini. Posljednji highlight je imao i Rakharth Flesh umiješan.

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    S time je drvo na vratima bilo gotovo pa sam obojila sve metalne dijelove: alku, okove i čavle u crno. Njih sam basecoatala sa Citadel Ironbreaker, i washala prvo s Agrax Earthshade pa Citadel Nuln Oil. Kad su se washevi osušili dodala sam highlighte s Citadel Runefang Steel.

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    Grede, druga vrata i okviri prozora su obojeni na isti način. Bilo je mnogo čavala posvuda po stolariji, pa je dobro pripaziti da ih se ne zaboravi obojiti. Šindra na krovu je odrađena s više crvenkastim smeđim bojama: 1:1 mix of Mournfang Brown i Gorthor Brown, do mješavine Skrag Brown s Vallejo Cobra Leather.

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    IV. Okrečeni zid

    Male površine zida izvana i većina zidova iznutra. Koristila sam Rakhart Flesh za basecoat. Trebalo mi je 3 ili 4 sloja da dobijem ravnomjernu boju jer sam radila preko crnog undercoata. Za highlight sam umiješala bijelu u Rakharth Flesh. Čistom bijelom sam označila pukotine da ih bolje istaknem. Prije nastavka, odradila sam blacklining na mjestima gdje se susreću dva materijala , te sam popravila mjesta gdje mi je bijela ili smeđa 'pobjegla' na kamen.

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    V. Detalji

    Prozori- basecoat je bio miks svjetle sive s trunkom Citadel Sybarite Green (malo boje da bude veća razlika između prozora i sivog kamena). Highlighti su išli od basecoata do čiste bijele. Na onim prozorima koji imaju metala obojila sam ga oprezno u crno i zatim Runefang Steel. Prozori iznutra su poprilično teški za dohvatiti kistom.

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    Metalne dekoracije- groteskno lice i križ na fasadi kuće obojeni su da oponašaju patiniranu broncu. Citadel Nihilakh Oxide technical paint omogućava da se to odradi u dva jednostavna koraka: brončani basecoat pa nakon sušenja Nihilakh Oxide.

    Dimnjak- također bronca kao za križ i groteskno lice, ali bez patine. Tu sam htjela efekt čađe. Prvo sam prekrila dimnjak Citadel Typhus Corrosionom da mu da teksturu, a nakon toga Exhaust Black pigment u prahu od Secret Weapona . Malo pigmenta sam dodala i na krov neposredno oko dimnjaka.

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    Obojena vrata – da bi dodala malo spot coloura, jedna sam vrata odlučila odraditi u zelenoj boji, s oštećenjima. Preko drvenih vrata koje sam već završila kad sam radila drvo, prešla sam s Citadel Waagh! Flesh. Ostavila sam rubove vrata u originalnoj drvenoj boji, jer to su dijelovi koji bi se prvi počeli guliti. Highlight je bio s Citadel Sybarite Green. Ispucalu boju na rubovima zelene površine sam napravila ručno koristeći precizni kist.

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    VI. Završni radovi

    Dodala sam suho lišće na stepenice i mahovinu na kamen, na mjestima blizu tla. Kad je cijeli posao bio gotov, zaštitila sam teren mat lakom.

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    Ana Polanšćak, 02.07.2020.
  • Bojanje i weathering Tabletop World setova
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    Here is a Gallery that follows Marko's painting and weathering of several Tabletop World's terrain pieces.

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    U ovom članku pratimo Markov proces bojanja i weatheringa Tabletop World terena.

    Bojanje

    Prvi proces u bojanju jest sprejanje. Sprejao sam od tamnije prema svijetlijim nijansama koristeći crni, pepelasti, antički bijeli i bijeli akrilni mat sprej.

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    Tijekom procesa bojanja koristit će se sljedeći GW washevi: Nuln Oil, Athonian Camoshade, Coelia Greenshade, Seraphim Sepia, Agrax Earthshade i Reikland Fleshshade. Pored tih washeva, obilno ću koristiti i Lahmian Medium kako bih razrijedio pojedine boje i washeve. Također, valja napomenuti da je poželjno imati i vanjsku motivaciju, makar na podlozi za bojanje.

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    Zidovi su nasumično tonirani sljedećim GW washevima: Athonian Camoshade, Coelia Greenshade, Druchii Violet, Reikland Fleshshade i Nuln Oil.

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    Dio žbuke je obojan u crvenu boju, dio u žutu. Korištene su sljedeće boje: Ocre, Sepia i Red tvrtke Pebeo Deco. Također, korišteni su i washevi Seraphim Sepia i Reikland Fleshshade.

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    Krov je potom obojan bojama Pebeo Deco Black, Blue i White. Korišteni su i sljedeći GW washevi: Athonian Camoshade, Coelia Greenshade i Druchii Violet. Zatim su svi ostali neobojani detalji izvučeni u crnu boju (Black od Pebeo Deco).

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    Izlizana boja na kamenim pločama u boji izrađena je pomoću Heavy Chipping Effecta tvrtke Ammo by Mig Jimenez te bojama Red i Antique White tvrtke Pebeo Deco

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    Drveni dijelovi obojani su u boje Brown. Ocre i Ash tvrtke Pebeo Deco, dok su metalni dijelovi izvučeni Heavy Metal bojom tvrtke Scale 75 te je stavljen wash Nuln Oil.

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    Weathering

    Weathering sam započeo dodavanjem zelenkastog štiha koristeći GW wash-eve: Athonian Camoshade i Nuln Oil. Zatim su dodani streaking efekti koristeći Ammo by Mig Jimenez Oilbrushere: Rust, Olive Green i Dark Green. Ulja sam potom „razvukao“ sa Odourless Enamel Thinner iste tvrtke. Sve sam zatim zaštitio bezbojnim mat akrilnim lakom u spreju.

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    Sljedeći korak bio je dodavanje pigmenata smeđe boje (smeđi i oker) koje sam učvrstio Pigment Fixerom.

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    Zastava je obojana i dodan je grb Udruge te je dodan efekt patine tvrtke Model Mates. Stakleni i vodeni dijelovi su obojani bojama Tamiya Clear Blue i Green. Za kraj sam dodao u ruševinu efekt dima. To sam učinio spaljujući komad plastičnog sprue-a te time začađio zidove. Nakon što sam bio zadovoljan efektom, dim sam polakirao bezbojnim mat akrilnim lakom u spreju.

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    Sige su napravljene sa jednokomponentnom smjesom tvrtke Noch pod nazivom Icicles. Kao mahovina dodano je razno busenje tvrtke Gamer’s Grass te na kraju dodan snijeg tvrtke Noch te snijeg u spreju.

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    Sve što je bilo dalje potrebno jest da se učvrste tereni na već pripremljenu tablu i da se spojevi „sakriju” snijegom u spreju. Konačan izgled table sljedi u nastavku:

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2020-06-29 14:53:49" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2020-06-29 14:53:49" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "35" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "1" ["first_name"]=> string(5) "Marko" ["last_name"]=> string(9) "Paunović" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(5) "marko" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(8) "paunovic" ["username"]=> string(5) "marko" ["password"]=> string(40) "775916114da8d49f1647decef7fb412e0964baae" ["born"]=> string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03" } }
    Marko Paunović, 29.06.2020.
  • Ulaz u rudnik na Divljem zapadu
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        ["title_eng"]=>
        string(28) "Wild West Minehead Entrance "
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        string(31) "Ulaz u rudnik na Divljem zapadu"
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    Idea and planning

    All who know me, know my mantra about how crucuial planning is in any bigger project. Since this is a more or less typical structure for Old west, I started my google search and instantly I found pictures of several types of wooden structures that I was going for. A bit down the order, after a couple of Lego versions, I managed to spot a tabletop terrain. Being curious I opened the link and was surprised that the link took me to Sarissa Precision site. I frequently go over their site and in fact my club owns a great number of their product. Sarissa Precision is an UK company from Derbyshire that designs and produces a range of laser cut products for retail and trade. They have a huge and ever growing range of laser cut buildings and accessories for wargamers and model makers including but not excluded to buildings, movement trays, bases, templates and tokens. They also manufacture a large number of products and components for other manufacturers and retailers and are happy to work with hobbyists. They are even kind enough to ship worldwide at affordable rates.

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    First thought I had was to use their Minehead Wheelhouse kit and build a small hill around it. The kit costs 22,5 GBP which is really a great price for a kit of this size (L290 x W110 x H290mm) and that features internal detail with a removable roof. However, I then reconsidered and thought it might be a really nice idea to make a sort of a comparison article. My intention was to find out how much it would cost (in materials) to copy the design of the structure and make one myself. I printed out the boxart pics I found on their internet store and using the rough measures provided (above) I quickly sketched my own version of the minehead. Once I had all the measures, I calculated how much material I would need to construct all the wall and roof segments. I was really surprised with the result as it turned out I „only“ needed one 5mm thick balsa plank (10x100cm) and some small pieces of 2mm thick balsa plank (about 30cm in length). A rough estimate of the cost revealed that to build this exact same structure, I would need only one tenth of the price of the kit. That said, I would need more time to build it than it would take me to just assemble the pre-cut terrain that comes from Sarissa Precision.

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    Materials and tools

    After the rough sketch, I could make a definite list of materials and tools needed for this project. Those are as follows:
    - one 2x2 mm linden slat
    - one 5x5 mm linden slat
    - roughly 30cm of 2 mm balsa wood (they come in 10 x 100 cm planks)
    - roughly a full plank of 5mm balsa wood (they also come in 10 x 100 cm planks)
    - a small piece of 5cm thick HD styrofoam
    - an even smaller piece of 2cm thick HD styrofoam
    - about 45x45 cm piece of 4mm thick MDF board
    - superglue
    - PVA glue
    - DAS air drying clay
    - gravel (four sizes)
    - static grass / tufts
    - pine trees
    - sanding paper (1 sheet)
    - thin card
    - masking tape
    - toothpicks
    - some pins
    - one piece of HO train set rails

    The tools needed are:
    - scalpel blade
    - marker pen
    - scissors
    - modelling saw
    - pin vice (or an electric mini drill)
    - brushes – various sizes – for painting/washing and for drybrushing
    - pliers and pincers
    - icepick
    - hot wire cutter
    - electric jigsaw*
    - electric disc sander*
    - electric table mounted circular saw

    * In order to speed up the process I will be using my Proxxon disc sander, jigsaw on the MDF to make the base. However, the base can be done with styrofoam only. In that case, if you don't have the jigsaw and disc sander.

    Building the base

    Using a marker pen I drew a rough outline of the base on the MDF board. Once I was satisfied with the layout, I proceeded to cut it with my jigsaw. The remaining piece of MDF, I stored for later use. They would come really handy as bases for smaller scatter terrain. When the cutting was done, I chamfered the circular edge using my disc sander. This will ensure the nice transition between the table and the base of the terrain. As mentioned before, if you do not own a disc sander, you can always make the base from HD styrofoam. Alternatively, you can sand the MDF using sanding paper. However, it will take a while but it is doable. Next, I drew the outline of the hillside on top side of the 5cm thick HD styrofoam. I also added a crevice that will house the mine itself. After drawing, I cut the styrofoam carefully with my scalpel blade. Remember to always use a really sharp blade when cutting styrofoam and bear in mind that the foam dulls the blades rather quickly so regular change of the blades is unfortunately necessary.

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    When I was finally happy with the basic shape of the hill, same as last time I used my hot wire cutter to model the vertical surfaces. I again used my cheapest wire cutter, powered by two AA batteries. The electricity from the batteries heats up the wire that then melts the styrofoam performing a perfect straight cut. However, as it heats the wire elongates so you should take into account that fact when fixing the wire to the cutter. If the wire is too long, it will still perform the job, however it won't be as handy and you (like me) will have to stoop to some really fiddly and strange handling of the device in order to get a nice cut. Using the same method (varying between 5cm and 2cm thick HD styrofoam) I built some more levels to my hillside and engraved the errosion patterns with the hot wire cutter.

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    When the hillside was built, it still looked a bit dull and plain so I decided to make some escarpments along the sides of the cliffs. In order to do so, I needed to build up the volume there. I could have done it using HD styrofoam once again, but I opted against it, choosing to sculpt the escarpments using DAS air drying clay. DAS comes in two versions, white and terracota. Both are equally good, don't crack during the curing period and are reasonably good for sculpting. (Note: you won't be able to sculpt your minis with DAS, but you will be able to model brick or stone walls, cobbled streets and whatnot.) I spread some DAS in several places throughout the base and when it was partly dry, I used a slightly watered down PVA glue just to fix it better to the base.

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    Before applying the texture, there was one thing left to do. I needed to make the embankment for the mine rail system. Again I turned to HD styrofoam and cut a slightly curving piece that was slanted inwards so the rails would appear to go down into the mine. I glued the piece with PVA glue. However, as I was in a rush, I decided to use some masking tape to better and faster stick it to the ground. Then I returned to my garage and using my Proxxon table mounted circular saw, I cut the curving piece of HO railings to size. If you don't own a circular saw, same can be done using a circular bit on your Dremmel. Note: be careful when using it as the sparks will fly and they can cause harm to your eyes so eye protection is a must. In case you don't own any electrical tools, you can cut it using a modelling saw. However, it will take time and it will probably dull your blade a bit, breaking a couple of teeth. When the cutting was done, I bent the rails to follow the curvature of the embankment. It did take a couple of tries.

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    Finally we come to the stage of adding the texture. First, I decided to put the rails in place. I covered the embankment with pure PVA glue (as I needed the rails to be glued properly) and I carefully placed the rails positioning them so they snuggly fit the embankment. To make the joint stick immediately, I put several blobs of superglue on each end of the rails. I could do that because I covered the HD styrofoam with masking tape. If there was no masking tape there, this method wouldn't work as the superglue would dissolve the styrofoam beneath. When the rails were fixed, I sprinkled the medium sized gravel over it making sure the texture covered every surface equally. Then it was time to add the texture to the rest of the base. I did the whole base in several segments (each level at a time). As always, I covered the surfaces with diluted PVA glue and started adding the gravel. I started with the biggest granulate and end with the smallest. I used four different sizes, from small pebbles to chinchilla sand. The larger pebbles and gravel I placed strategicly around the base to form some clutter and especially on the escarpment. The two smallest granulates were freely dispersed throughout the terrain making sure I get even coverage throughout and no area is left without texture. Around the places leading up to the entrance of the building, I used only smallest grain sand (for chinchillas).

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    Making the structure

    While the texture was drying, I proceeded to make the minehead entrance/wheelhouse structure. I decided to go for the easiest and the fastest method of building the structure. Unlike the old west church where I first made the wooden frame and then glued each plank separately, here I opted to make the walls from a single piece of 5mm balsa wood. Balsa of such thickness is sturdy enough to withstand gaming abuse without any damage/breakage. As with MDF and styrofoam bases, I first drew the outlines of each wall on the balsa plank using my marker pen. Then I carefully cut each wall. I used my modellers saw for cuts against the grain (perpendicular to it) and used the scalpel blade for cuts going with the grain. When every wall segment was cut, I used an icepick to carve each individual plank both on the inner and the outer side of the wall.

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    Using superglue, I glued all the wall segments into my structure. To make the roof structure, I used 2mm thick balsa wood. The roof of the small hut in the back (with the door) was intentionally left unglued so you can actually play inside the building. Once the roof structure was made, I used the same material I used on the church to make the roof – sanding paper cut to size. I just love the texture it has. Once everything was finished, I took both the structure and the base to my garage for a quick sprey of undercoat. Remember to always sprey in a well ventilated area! When the undercoat was dry, I first dryfitted the building to the base, closed the gaps with some balsa planks and applied with a large brush a coat of black colour to the places the sprey didn't reach.

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    Painting

    When the undercoat was dry, it was time to paint the terrain. Normally, I would have glued the building to the base at this point. However, I wanted to be able to paint the terrain inside the mine so I left the two parts separate. I started painting the base first. Wanting all my terrain to fit one theme (and consequently one tabletop) it was only natural I use the same colours and colour scheme as on the earlier terrain. Therefore once again I used Pebeo Deco color range. I used Brown (29) for the basecoat and continued drybrushing with Ocre (51). Lighter shades were done with a 50:50 mixture of Ocre (51) and White (41). The final highlight was done with Antique White (69).

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    With the base painted, I could now attach the building to it. I used PVA glue to glue it in place and once it was dry, I started painting the structure. The building has two different surfaces and consequently textures – roof and wooden walls. I proceeded to paint the wooden walls by drybrushing first using a 50:50 mixture of Black (55) and Grey (54). Next layer was pure Grey (54) and the finishing highlight was Ash Brown (70). I was not quite satisfied with the result, so I added another highlight of pure White (41). The roof was painted first with a mixture of Black (55) and Grey (54) and then a mixture of Grey (54) and Antique White (69) finishing with almost a pure coat of Antique White (69).

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    Vegetation

    After the painting, it was time to add the vegetation to the base. First up, I decided to plant some pine trees. I used Ziterdes ones that come in a big pack of 20 (or 25, not sure). They come on long shafts and in several sizes and heights. In order to glue them in place, I first had to cut their round bases as they got in the way. I also added metal pins to the pine trees. The easiest method of pinning metal pins to the plastic trunks of the trees is to heat the metal pin using a candle and just stick it into the trunk. The heat will melt the plastic locally and as the pin goes into the trunk the heat dissipates and once the pin is cool it will become lodged into the trunk without any need to glue it. The pins in the trees that were intended to be glued to the styrofoam base were left longer than the pins in the trees meant to be glued on the MDF base. Also, I used a pinvice to make the hole in the MDF base to accommodate the pins. I glued the trees using both PVA and super glue.

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    With the trees in place, I could now add the static grass. I made a mixture using several green, brown, yellow and black shades of static grass and when I was satisfied with the end product, I glued it in random patches throughout the base. One thing I made sure of is that I put static grass over any and all of the remaining holes where the wooden structure met the base in order to hide the unintentional mistake. Once the static grass was in place, I applied several shades of different tufts. Again, as in the former articles, I used tufts made by a company called Gamer's Grass.

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    In the end I added a staircase I got in a NOCH train set in order to connect the entrance to the mine with the door of the house on the first level of styrofoam base. Finally, I added a couple of miniatures to test whether the dimensions I used work. And I was pretty happy with the end result.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(25445) "

    Ideja i planiranje

    Svi koji me poznaju, znaju moju mantru o tome kako je krucijalno planiranje u nekom većem projektu. Kako je ovo manje ili više tipična građevina za Divlji zapad, započeo sam svoju pretragu googleom i odmah sam pronašao slike nekoliko vrsta drvenih konstrukcija koje su mi se svidjele. Nešto malo niže u pretrazi, nakon par Lego verzija, uspio sam uočiti teren za tabletop. Otvorio sam poveznicu i iznenadio se što me je link odveo do stranice Sarissa Precision. Često gledam njihove stranice, a UMS Agram u stvari posjeduje veliki broj njihovih proizvoda. Sarissa Precision je britanska tvrtka iz Derbyshirea koja dizajnira i proizvodi niz laserski izrezanih terena po pristupačnim cijenama.

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    Prvo sam pomislio kako bih trebao koristiti njihov komplet Minehead Wheelhouse i izgraditi malo brdo oko njega. Komplet košta 22,5 GBP, što je zaista izvrsna cijena za kit ove veličine (D290 x Š110 x V290mm) i koji sadrži unutarnje detalje s krovom koji se može ukloniti. Međutim, tada sam preispitao i pomislio da bi mogla biti zaista dobra ideja napraviti nekakav članak za usporedbu. Moja je namjera bila otkriti koliko će koštati (u materijalima) kopirati dizajn konstrukcije i napraviti ju sam. Isprintao sam boxart slike koje sam pronašao na njihovoj internetskoj trgovini i pomoću grubih mjera koje su predviđene (gore) brzo sam skicirao svoju verziju minehead-a. Jednom kada sam obavio sve mjere, izračunao sam koliko materijala će mi trebati da konstruiram sve zidove i krovne segmente. Zaista sam bio iznenađen rezultatom jer se ispostavilo da sam „samo“ trebao jednu balzinu letvicu debljine od 5 mm (10x100 cm) i nekoliko malih komada balze debljine 2 mm (duljine oko 30 cm). Gruba procjena troškova otkrila je da će mi biti potrebna samo jedna desetina cijene kompleta za izgradnju ove iste strukture. S negativne strane, trebat će mi više vremena da ga izgradim nego što bi mi trebalo samo da sastavim unaprijed isječeni teren tvrtke Sarissa Precision.

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    Materijali i alati

    Nakon grube skice, mogao sam napraviti definitivan popis materijala i alata potrebnih za ovaj projekt. To su sljedeće:
    - jedna lipova letvica od 2x2 mm
    - jedna lipova letvica 5x5 mm
    - otprilike 30 cm balza daske od 2 mm (dolaze u daskama od 10 x 100 cm)
    - otprilike puna daska od balze od 5 mm (također dolaze u dasaka veličine 10 x 100 cm)
    - mali komad stirodura debljine 5 cm
    - još manji komad stirodura debljine 2 cm
    - komad MDF ploče oko 45x45 cm debljine 4 mm
    - super ljepilo
    - PVA ljepilo
    - DAS glinamol
    - šljunak (četiri veličine)
    - statička trava / buseni
    - borovi
    - brusni papir (1 list)
    - tanki karton
    - kreptraka
    - čačkalice
    - pribadače
    - jedan komad tračnica vlaka HO

    Potrebni alati su:
    - skalpel
    - marker olovka
    - škare
    - pila za modeliranje
    - ručna mini bušilica (ili električna mini bušilica)
    - kistovi - raznih veličina
    - kliješta i pincete
    - šilo
    - rezač vruće žice (hot wire cutter)
    - električna ubodna pila *
    - električni brusilica *
    - električna stolna kružna pila

    * Da bih ubrzao postupak, ja ću za izradu baze koristiti moju kružnu brusilicu Proxxon i ubodnu pilu za MDF. Međutim, podloga se može raditi samo od stirodura. U tom slučaju, nema potrebe za električnim alatom.

    Izrada baze terena

    Pomoću markera nacrtao sam grubi obris baze na MDF ploči. Kad sam bio zadovoljan izgledom, izrezao sam ju ubodnom pilom. Preostali komad MDF-a spremio sam za kasniju upotrebu. Oni su zaista korisni kao baze za manje razbacane terene. Nakon rezanja pobrusio sam kružni rub pomoću brusilice za disk što će osigurati lijep prijelaz između stola i baze terena. Kao što je već spomenuto, ako ne posjedujete brusilicu, podlogu uvijek možete napraviti od stirodura. MDF možete brusiti i brusnim papirom. Međutim, trebat će više vrijeme, ali izvedivo je. Zatim sam nacrtao obris obronka na gornju stranu stirodura debljine 5 cm. Dodao sam i rupu koja će predstavljati rudnik. Nakon crtanja pažljivo sam izrezao stirodur skalpelom. Ne zaboravite da prilikom rezanja stiropora uvijek koristite stvarno oštru oštricu i imajte na umu da stirodur dosta brzo uništava oštrice pa je nažalost nužna redovita promjena oštrica.

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    Kad sam napokon bio zadovoljan osnovnim oblikom brda, rezačem vruće žice modelirao sam vertikalne površine. Ponovno sam upotrijebio svoj jeftini rezač, napajan s dvije AA baterije. Električna energija iz baterije zagrijava žicu koja tada topi stirodur izvodeći savršen ravni rez. Međutim, kako zagrijava žicu, produžava se pa tu činjenicu trebate uzeti u obzir prilikom pričvršćivanja žice na rezač. Koristeći istu metodu (koristeći stirodura od 5 i 2 cm debljine) sagradio sam još nekoliko razina padine i urezao uzorke reljefa.

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    Nakon što sam završio oblikovanja brda, izgledalo je pomalo dosadno i plavo pa sam odlučio dodati neka klizišta uz bok litica. Da bih to učinio, trebao sam na mjestima dodati volumen. Za to sam koristio DAS glinamol. DAS dolazi u dvije verzije, bijeloj i terakoti. Oboje su podjednako dobri, ne pucaju tijekom sušenja i prilično su dobri za oblikovanje. (Napomena: nećete moći izraditi svoje minijature s DAS-om, ali moći ćete modelirati zidove od opeke ili kamena, kaldrme i slične teksture). Raširio sam DAS-u na nekoliko mjesta po bazi i kad se djelomično osušio, stavio sam razvodnjeno PVA ljepilo da ga bolje pričvrstim na bazu.

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    Prije nanošenja teksture ostalo je još jedno. Trebao sam napraviti nasip za sustav rudničke željeznice. Opet sam se iskoristio stirodur i izrezao malo zakrivljeni komad koji je bio nagnut prema unutra kako bi se činilo da se šine spuštaju u rudnik. Komad sam zalijepio PVA ljepilom. Međutim, kako sam bio u žurbi, odlučio sam upotrijebiti krep traku kako bih je bolje i brže zaljepio za bazu. Zatim sam se vratio u garažu i pomoću kružne stolne pile Proxxon izrezao sam zakrivljeni komad HO šine da paše po veličini. Ako nemate kružnu pilu, isto možete učiniti pomoću cirkulara na mini brusilici. Napomena: budite oprezni kad ga upotrebljavate jer će iskre letjeti koje mogu naštetiti vašim očima pa je zaštita očiju obavezna. U slučaju da nemate električni alat, možete ga rezati pomoću pile za modeliranje. Međutim, trebat će vremena i vjerojatno će vam malo otupiti oštricu. Nakon rezanja, savinuo sam tračnice kako bi pratile zakrivljenost nasipa. Trebalo je nekoliko pokušaja.

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    Napokon dolazimo do faze dodavanja teksture. Prvo sam odlučio postaviti tračnice na mjesto. Pokrio sam nasip čistim PVA ljepilom i pažljivo sam postavio šine tako da dobro prianjaju nasipu. Da odmah dobijem čvrsti spoj na svaki kraj tračnica stavio sam nekoliko kapi super ljepila. To sam mogao učiniti jer sam prekrio stirodur krep trakom. Da je nije bilo, ova metoda ne bi uspjela jer bi super ljepilo otopilo stirodur ispod. Kad su se tračnice fiksirale, prosipao sam nasip šljunkom srednje veličine, pazeći da tekstura pokriva svaku površinu podjednako. Tada je došlo vrijeme da se tekstura doda ostatku baze. Cijelu bazu radio sam u nekoliko segmenata (svaki nivo zasebno). Kao i uvijek, prekrio sam površine razrijeđenim PVA ljepilom i počeo dodavati šljunak. Počeo sam s najvećim granulatom i završio s najmanjim. Koristio sam četiri različite veličine, od sitnog šljunka do pijeska za činčile. Veće komade i šljunak sam strateški postavio oko baze kako bi stvorio nešto nepravilne teksture, posebno oko klizišta. Dva najmanja granulata slobodno sam raspršio po terenu osiguravajući da dobijem ravnomjerno pokrivanje po cijelom terenu i da nijedno područje ne ostane bez teksture. Oko mjesta koja vode do ulaza u zgradu, koristio sam samo najmanji pijesak (za činčile).

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    Izrada građevine

    Dok se tekstura sušila, nastavio sam sa izradom ulaza u rudnik. Odlučio sam se za najlakšu i najbržu metodu izgradnje građevine - izradu zidova od jednog komada balze od 5 mm. Balza takve debljine dovoljno je čvrsta da može podnijeti korištenje bez ikakvih oštećenja / lomova. Kao i kod baze od MDF-a i stirodura, prvo sam nacrtao obrise svakog zida dasci pomoću markera. Tada sam pažljivo izrezao svaki zid. Pazite kako orijentirate zidove na balzi tako da vam godovi služe kao daske. Kad je svaki segment zida bio izrezan, koristio sam šilo za urezivanje svake pojedine daske, kako na unutarnjoj tako i na vanjskoj strani zida.

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    Super ljepilom sam zalijepio sve segmente zida. Za izradu krovne konstrukcije koristio sam balzu debljine 2 mm. Krov male kolibe straga (s vratima) bio je namjerno ostavljen nezaljepljen, tako da se zapravo možete igrati unutar zgrade. Nakon izrade krovne konstrukcije, za izradu krovnih ploča upotrijebio sam brusni papir. Jednostavno volim teksturu koju ima. Nakon što je sve bilo gotovo, odnio sam građevinu i bazu u svoju garažu na sprejanje undercoata (crnog). Imajte na umu da uvijek sprejate u dobro prozračenom prostoru!

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    Bojanje

    Kad se podloga osušila, došlo je vrijeme za bojanje terena. Obično bih u ovom trenutku zalijepio zgradu na bazu. Međutim, želio sam moći bojati i unutrašnjost zgrade, pa sam dva dijela ostavio odvojene. Prvo sam počeo bojati bazu. Koristio sam boje Pebeo Deco. Za temeljni premaz sam koristio Brown (29) i nastavio drybrushanje bojom Ocre (51). Svjetlije nijanse izvedene su 50:50 mješavinom Ocre (51) i White (41). Konačni highlight učinio je Antique White (69).

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    Budući da je baza sada bila obojana sada sam mogao pričvrstiti zgradu na nju. Koristilo sam PVA ljepilo i nakon što se osušilo, počeo sam bojati zgradu. Zgrada ima dvije različite površine i posljedično teksture - krov i drveni zidovi. Drvene zidove sam drybrushao najprije pomoću 50:50 mješavine Black (55) i Grey (54). Sljedeći sloj bio je čisto Grey (54), a završni ton bio je Ash Brown (70). Nisam bio baš zadovoljan rezultatom, pa sam dodao još jedan highlight čiste White (41). Krov je prvo oslikan mješavinom Black (55) i Grey (54), a zatim mješavinom Grey (54) i Antique White (69) te završni highlight čistim slojem Antique White (69).

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    Vegetacija

    Nakon bojanja uslijedilo je dodavanje vegetacije u bazu. Prvo sam odlučio posaditi malo borova. Koristio sam Ziterdes borove koji dolaze u velikom pakiranju od 20 (ili 25, nisam siguran). Dolaze na dugim deblima u nekoliko veličina i visina. Da bih ih zalijepio na mjestu, najprije sam morao rezati njihove okrugle baze. Dodao sam i metalne igle da ih zabijem u podlogu. Najlakša metoda zabijanja metalne igle u plastična debla stabala je zagrijavanje metalne igle svijećom te zabijanja u deblo. Toplina će lokalno rastopiti plastiku, a kako igla ulazi u deblo, toplina se rasipa i kada se igla ohladi, ona će se fiksirati za teblo bez potrebe za lijepljenjem. Zalijepio sam stabla koristeći PVA i super ljepilo.

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    Kad su stabla bila postavljena mogao sam dodati statičku travu. Napravio sam mješavinu koristeći nekoliko zelenih, smeđih, žutih i crnih nijansi statičke trave i kad sam bio zadovoljan krajnjim proizvodom, zalijepio sam ga nasumično po cijeloj bazi. Jedino oko čega sam pazio jest da stavim statičku travu na sve preostale rupe na mjestima spoja zgrade i baze kako bih sakrio nenamjernu grešku. Jednom kad je statična trava bila na mjestu, nanio sam nekoliko nijansi različitih busenja koje proizvodi tvrtka Gamer's Grass.

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    Na kraju sam dodao stubište iz NOCH seta (za vlakove) kako bih spojio ulaz u rudnik s vratima kuće na prvoj razini stirodurne baze. Na kraju sam dodao par minijatura kako bih testirao dimenzije. I bio sam prilično zadovoljan krajnjim rezultatom.

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    Marko Paunović, 25.06.2020.
  • Konvertiranje Blood Angles Aggressora – bojanje čahura metaka
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        string(45) "How to make chaingun shell casings - painting"
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        string(64) "Konvertiranje Blood Angles Aggressora – bojanje čahura metaka"
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    In this article, we will follow the work done by our Goran Krunić as he converts his Blood Angels Space Marine. In the second article in the series, he is painting his custom made chaingun shell casings.

    I begin this article with an important notice: since I previously painted the shell casings on the miniature itself, I will not be demonstrating the step-by-step in this manner, rather, only for an individual shell. However, this technique is applicable on shells which are assembled on a vehicle, flyer or miniature.

    An individual shell casing is obtained in the same way as was described in the first part of the article, so I won't be repeating that part here. In order to facilitate easier handling of the shell casing during painting, I recommend to glue it using superglue to a piece of fisherman's nylon or thin wire.

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    We begin by painting the shell with a mid-tone of a golden-copper paint, I have chosen Viking Gold from Scale75, but any similar paint from any other paint line is acceptable.

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    After the paint has dried, we apply a layer of a shading wash, which is a very dilute paint with a small amount of a darker pigment.

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    After the wash has dried (the procedure can be substantially accelerated by using a hair drier or similar device), we use a 0.05mm thick rapidograph pencil to create a line on the bottom of the shell, which most real references I saw have. It is important to take care that the line is straight, and I recommend that you don't use a single stroke to make it, and to take your time and patience, thus ensuring a better-looking end result.

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    After this, we use a 0.1mm thick rapidograph pencil to draw a hole on the other end of the previously drawn line by using circular motions.

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    I then proceeded to highlight the edges of the shell by using a lighter copper-gold color, I have chosen Dwarven Gold from Scale75, but any similar paint from any other paint line is acceptable.

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    Članak započinjem napomenom: s obzirom da sam prethodno obojao metke na samoj figuri, neću demonstrirati korak po korak na taj način, već samo za jednu individualnu čahuru, ali je tehnika primjenjiva i na čahure koje su naslagane na vozilo, letjelicu ili figuru.

    Jednu čahuru dobijemo na isti način kako je opisano u prvom dijelu članka te taj dio ovdje neću ponavljati. Radi lakšeg rukovanja čahurom tokom bojanja, predlažem istu zalijepiti super ljepilom na komad ribarskog najlona (flaks) ili tanje žice.

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    Prvo bojamo čahuru u neku srednje intenzivnu brončano-zlatnu boju. Ja sam odabrao Viking Gold od tvrtke Scale75, ali bilo koja slična boja bilo kojeg drugog proizvođača može poslužiti za istu svrhu.

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    Nakon što se boja posušila, nanosimo sloj boje za sjenčanje (engl. wash - vrlo rijetka boja sa razmjerno malo vrlo tamnog pigmenta).

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    Nakon što se wash posuši (postupak se značajno može ubrzati korištenjem sušila za kosu ili sličnog uređaja), nanosimo rapidografom 0.05mm debljine crtu koja služi kao donji urez što većina čahura po autorovim referencama sadrži, ovdje je važno paziti na ravninu crte pa se predlaže ne raditi istu iz jednog poteza te nikako na brzinu i nestrpljivo.

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    Nakon toga, pomoću rapidografa debljine 0.1mm ucrtavamo rupu u kojoj je bio metak, tako što ga prislonimo na suprotni vrh od prethodno napravljene crte i laganim kružnim pokretima napravimo oznaku rupe.

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    Zatim sljedi isticanje rubova svjetlijom brončano-zlatnom bojom, ja sam odabrao Dwarven Gold tvrtke Scale75, ali bilo koja slična boja bilo kojeg drugog proizvođača može poslužiti.

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    Goran Krunić, 23.06.2020.

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