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• Izrada igraće table – dio 2

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      ["title_eng"]=>
      string(33) "Building a Gaming Board – pt 2."
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      string(30) "Izrada igraće table – dio 2"
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  	In the previous asrticle, I've started work on my winter themed Frostgrave board. So far, I've covered the cutting of the plywood, making a frame, building volume with HD styrofoam, adding cliffs and river banks and I've finished the article with texture application.
  
  	  
  
  	I'm at about the half way mark with the building of this board and the main idea of this build is to have a single board for my Malifaux games which means I would require a 90x90cm (3'x3') board. I decided to go with a frozen river, with a couple of crossings. I'd also wanted at least one road and several paths that wouldn't have been (entirely) covered with snow. I'd also wanted to add some levels to my board so it wouldn't be just flat. Two or three levels would have been perfect. Since this wouldn't be a fixed terrain board, I'd still needed plenty of flat areas to place the scenery before my games. In this issue, I'll be painting the board's three separate kinds of surfaces (ground, cliffs and river), followed by adding the river which will be the most tricky and most time consuming part of the build. After the river sets, I'll add vegetation, roots, grass tufts and alike. I'll also add a couple of fir/pine trees. In the end, I'll add ice surfaces (ice and icicles) as well as cover the entire board with snow.
  
  	Planning
  
  	Most of the planning was done in the last issue. The main needs and wants were decided and all that was left was to micro-manage some issues like when to paint, when to pour the resin and how to add the snow. During the build last issue, as always no matter how good you plan things, there were some things that weren't accounted for that might pose some troubles and problems later during the build. First of those were how to gather all the loose texturing material without simply chucking it all away in the yard. Also, pouring in the resin and adding the snow needed careful planning in order not to accidentally mess and ruin previous work. For instance, if I opted to put static grass, I'd need to put it before pouring in the resin to prevent stray static fibres from getting accidentally stuck in the resin while it cured. Also, protection of details (like river, cliffs and tufts/static grass) would be crucial before adding the snow to prevent snow from completely covering them.
  
  	  
  
  	After a short think, I came up with this list of tools and materials that I would need to finish this board:
  
  	- glues - PVA 1kg, 1x10g Superglue
  
  	- paints and spreys - 6 Pebeo Deco Paints (Black, White, Grey, Brown, Ochre and Ash), one black, ash, off white and pure white matt acrylic spreys and one clear matt acrylic sprey
  
  	- large brushes No 90, No 40
  
  	- airbrush
  
  	- brush size 16
  
  	- several roots
  
  	- static grass tufts and scatter (three to four sorts)
  
  	- Clear Water gel by Ammo by Mig Jimenez
  
  	- Resin (Gedeo Crystal Resin)
  
  	- Pebeo Vitrail Sky Blue paint
  
  	- 20-ish pine trees
  
  	- NOCH icicles
  
  	- NOCH snow products (2 packages)
  
  	- NOCH ice crystals
  
  	- snow foam in a sprey can
  
  	- scalpel blade
  
  	- scissors
  
  	- masking tape
  
  	- thin card (several pieces)
  
  	- portable hand-held vacuum cleaner
  
  	Preparation work
  
  	As mentioned before, last issue I left the entire table covered with texture material – sand and gravel. As I didn't make a mixture of water, PVA glue and sand/gravel, opting to first put PVA glue and sprinkle the texture over it, it was now necessary to remove the excess sand, gravel and pebbles from the board. Normally, when doing terrain, I would suggest usine a large cardboard lid and simply turn over the terrain over it. However, my board is 90 x 90 cm with well over 5kg now and I didn't have a large enough receptical to gather all the leftover texturing material. Simply turning it over the floor of my garage was also out of the question. To gather all (or most) of the texturing material, I used a small hand held battery powered vacuum cleaner that housekeepers use for collecting breadcrums in the kitchen. A couple of minutes of vacuuming, removed most of the excess material. Rest was lost alas when I turned the board over in my back yard. But I did manage to salvage almost an entire jar worth of basing material.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Undercoat
  
  	When the excess texture material was removed, I could proceed with the painting. First step as always was to undercoat the board. This time, I would use four different spreys to do the undercoating. All the main textures (apart from the cliffs and the river) were undercoated black. Rest of the surfaces, notably: cliffs, boulders and river) was first undercoated white followed by a layer of off white and ash spreys. When these were dry, I then overspreyed those surfaces lightly with pure white sprey again. In the end, I turned back to black sprey to repair the sloppy spreying in places.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Airbrushing the washes
  
  	The next step in painting was to airbrush some washes to the riverbed and all the stone parts (cliffs, river banks and boulders). I used these washes: • Coelia Greenshade • Athonian Camoshade • Druchii Violet • Nuln Oil • Seraphim Sepia • Agrax Earthshade
  
  	For the riverbed, I used only the Coelia Greenshade, Athonian Camoshade and Nuln Oil. On the stone parts, I used all of them with repeats of Nuln Oil and Coelia Greenshade. As these colours were washes, the drying period between the layers was long. To shorten this period, I used an old hair dryer to speed up the drying process. Remember to always airbrush (and sprey from sprey cans) in a well ventilated areas!
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Painting the texture
  
  	When I was done with applying the washes to the cliffs and the river, it was time to paint the rest of the surfaces on my board. Apart from the river and the cliffs, there were two distinct surfaces to paint. One was the normal ground, the other road and paths. I decided to paint all those surfaces with an initial layer of drybrushed Pebeo Brown. To apply it, I used the biggest brush I could find – size 90. Once the layer was dry, I applied a layer of Pebeo Ochre to the road and paths only. Again, when this layer was dry, I painted the entire surface with a drybrushed layer of Pebeo Ash. The difference in the layers due to the Ochre colouration on the paths and road is still visible. At this point, I would normally stop painting. Maybe adding a final highlight of pure Pebeo Antique White to the most raised surfaces only. However, most of this board would be covered with snow, so I decided to push the colour even whiter. I added two more layers to all the surfaces. First was with the afore mentioned Pebeo Antique White and the latter was done with pure Pebeo White. Note that the difference between the normal ground texture and the paths/road surface is still visible. Also, you may notice that the paintjob was not as tidy as it could have been. The reason behind this was two-fold. First, I was rushing the job a little. Second, I didn't go back as I would normally, only because I was aware that most of the surfaces would be covered with snow in the end. A careful reader/viewer may notice some white-ish marks in the road that mark the spots where some pebbles were glued that got knocked of during painting. These I also did not go back to repair. I would simply cover those places with either snow or grass tufts to save time.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Painting the cliffs
  
  	Painting the cliffs was relatively simple. I just drybrushed some Pebeo Grey followed by Pebeo White. I then realised, that these layers covered almost the entire airbrushed washes effects. So I decided to turn back to my airbrush and re-apply those layers, using Coelia Greenshade, Athonian Camoshade, Druchii Violet and Nuln Oil. This time, I did not wait for the layers to dry. Instead I opted for the washes to mix freely due to the pressure applied from the airbrush.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Making the river
  
  	After the paintjob, it was time to make the river. Most of the river had river banks made from schist in the last issue. However, there was a part that had a low crossing which didn't have any elevation from the rest of the riverbank. To make the river bed one whole, I needed to model some sort of an embankment to prevent the resin from spreading to the road. The job fell on Clear Water gel by Ammo by MIG. It is a white paste that dries clear. Using a small brush, I made a small embankment that was 2-3mm high and I left it to dry over night.
  
  	Unfortunately, that night the rain started to fall and the temperature dropped down significantly. This caused the effect not to dry completely. It still remained white. As I was chasing a deadline, I decided to proceed with the resin pouring despite it not being clear. I could always cover this part with snow at a later point.
  
  	For the river, I opted to use Gedeo Crystal Resin. A quick calculation based on rough estimations of the river being 5cm wide and 90cm long coupled with my wish for the river to be 1-2mm deep, produced the result that I needed 45-90ml of resin. The Gedeo Crystal Resin is my resin of choice, mostly because it is a two component resin that is mixed in 2:1 volume ratio. This makes it really easy to use in almost all volumes neccessary. During the airbrushing, I spent all of my Nuln Oil. Fortunately, I saved the 24ml bottle. Using two fills of resin (48ml) and one fill of hardener (24ml) ensured that I hade 72ml of resin. Almost perfect for my river. To slightly tint the resin, I used Pebeo Vitrail Sky Blue colour. Remember to add the colour after you mixed the resin and the hardener to ensure the resin sets properly.
  
  	Also, the resin mixture is quite volatile and can even produce some heat as the curing is an exothermic reaction so the use of protective gloves is recommended.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Adding pigments
  
  	At this point I still was not satisfied with the look of my cliffs so I decided to add some pigments to it. Using rust and ochre pigments applied randomly throughout the cliffs, I added some subtle tones. In places those were not so subtle. I fixed the pigments using AK Interactive Pigment Fixer using a large brush (size 16).
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Roots on the cliffs
  
  	To add some further variety to the cliffs, I decided to add some roots. If you remember from last issue, I went on a hike to the hills where I gathered some stones I used to make cliffs with. On the same hike, I also gathered some roots from an overturned tree stump. These, when washed, make excellent trees, dried shrubs and even roots in our small scale. Using super glue I fixed them in desired places making sure I glued their both ends. This way, they wouldn't be so easy to dislocate during gaming. Alternatively, you can always pin them using a really thin wire.
  
  	  
  
  	Adding snow to the pine/fir trees
  
  	Next step was to add the trees. I decided I would use NOCH fir/pine trees that come in a bag of 50. I would plant 20 of them to my board. Before gluing them to the board, I decided to paint them white and add some snow. First I spreyed them using a white matt acrylic sprey. This was still not white enough for me, so I used Pebeo White applied with a size 16 brush cut for drybrushing. Be careful, this is a messy procedure and you'll get spreyed white as my T-shirt will attest. When the white colour was dry, I spreyed the trees with snow foam from a sprey can. This added some volume to the snowy effect that I was going for. When the foam was dry, I spreyed the trees with clear acrylic mat sprey to add some strength to the bond between the trees and the snow foam.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Low branches
  
  	While the snow was drying on the fir/pine trees I decided to add some more medium to low vegetation to my board. Once again, I turned to the roots gathered on my hike to the hills. I used some cool looking roots that had at least two to three branches to make some low branches that are growing from the cliffs of my board. I glued them arbitrarily around the cliffs, just making sure they do not get in the way of gaming. To glue them in place I used some super glue. If you are worried that the branches might get knocked off, you can always pin them using wire/paperclips to the cliffs.
  
  	  
  
  	Ice on the river
  
  	With the resin now totally cured, I had to add some ice on the riverbanks. Fortunately, during Iron Painter, I discovered a cool product used by railroad modellers to add ice to their rivers. It is made by a german company called NOCH. Their Ice Crystals comes in a rubbery tube and is some sort of paste that can be applied directly from the tube to a frozen lake, a wintery pond, to the street or to windows and subsequently be easily modelled with a brush. Once dry it gives the shimmering effect of ice. I used a large brush (size 16) to apply it to my river banks. I made sure that the layer wasn't uniform making it narrower and wider, lower and higher and I even placed a couple of pieces inside the river.
  
  	Also, once dry, you can add some Clear Water gel from Ammo by Mig to form a stream if you wish. I decided not to as I wanted my river not to be rapids.
  
  	  
  
  	Icicles
  
  	Another NOCH product I discovered while doing Iron Painter back in 2017 was the NOCH Icicles tube. This is really easy to use product that comes out of the rubber tube as a small worm. It is obviously some sort of resin that dries clear and has quite high a rigidity. Perfect for making icicles. I decided to use them only around the river on the cliffs and low branches. This way, the branches when covered with the NOCH Icicles, not only would they look frozen, but would be more rigid which will prevent breakage during gaming.
  
  	  
  
  	Low vegetation
  
  	Since the majority of the board would be covered with snow, I decided not to use generic static grass, but opted for a slightly more expenisve tufts. The tufts I used are from Gamer's Grass and they come in a number of colouration, height and size. I used 12mm, 6mm and 4mm long tufts in beige, winter, dry and autumn colouration, as well as spikey variant which added quite some character to the cliffs underneath which I glued them using PVA glue.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Gluing the pines
  
  	Depending on the sort of trees you have, you can fix them to your board in several ways. First, and the easiest, is to glue the trees using PVA glue. Since my trees had the roots made in the bottom, I chose this method. Not only do they provide wide enough an area for the glue to work, the fact that the roots were modelled made them realistic enough to use as is. However, some trees come on a circular base (about 2cm in diametre). If you use those, my advice would be to remove the circular base and add a wire pin (using a pin vice or a dremel). This will provide added strenght to the bond. Around the tree, I would then suggest planting some low vegetation (or snow in this case) to hide the fact that there is no root present.
  
  	  
  
  	Adding the snow
  
  	The last thing to add to this board will be the snow. My initial plan was to cover the entire board (minus the river, most of the cliffs, roads and paths) with several layers of NOCH snow products glued by a thick layer of PVA glue. However, that seemed like a waste of material (both the snow product and PVA glue) so I decided only to use the NOCH snow underneath the trees. I applied a thick layer of PVA glue around the trees and using a large spoon sprinkled the snow product. Also, at this time I used a watered down mixture of PVA glue, water and white paint to cover some of the ice surfaces on the river. Those areas were also covered with snow product.
  
  	Rest of the surfaces, I sprinkled with snow foam from a sprey can. In all, I used two sprey cans. Around the sensitive areas like river, cliffs and tufts I used some thin card to protect them from the sprey. Once dry, I spreyed some clear matt sprey to add strenght to the effect. This way, I saved both money and time as this is truly a fast method. Eventually, due to gaming on the board, I expect some of the snow to peel of. However, the snow foam from a sprey can costs less than 2 USD so the cost of repairing isn't high.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	The finished product
  
  	After a couple of weeks of building on and off, my board was finished. In total, it cost less than 100USD with all the materials used (over half of which is resin and fir/pine trees).
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  "
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  	U prethodnom članku započeo sam rad na svojoj zimskoj tematskoj ploči Frostgrave. Do sada sam prekrio rezanje iverice, napravio okvir, izgradio volumene od stirodura, dodao litice i obale rijeka i završio sam članak s nanošenjem teksture.
  
  	  
  
  	Otprilike sam na pola puta kod izgradnje ove ploče, a glavna ideja ove gradnje je imati jednu ploču za Frostgrave, što znači da bi mi bila potrebna ploča veličine 90x90cm (3'x3 '). Odlučio sam krenuti sa zaleđenom rijekom, s par prijelaza. Želio bih barem jednu cestu i nekoliko staza koje ne bi bile (u cijelosti) prekrivene snijegom. Također bih htio dodati nekoliko razina na tablu kako ne bi bilo jednostavno ravno. Dvije ili tri razine bile bi savršene. Kako ovo neće biti ploča s nepokretnim terenom, trebalo bi mi dosta ravnih površina da postavim terene prije svojih igara. U ovom članku, pobojat ću tri različite vrste površina (tlo, litice i rijeke), nakon čega ću dodati rijeku koja će biti najkompliciraniji i vremenski najzahtjevniji dio izgradnje. Nakon što se rijeka osuši, dodat ću vegetaciju, korijenje, busenove i slično. Dodati ću i par jelki / borova. Na kraju ću dodati ledene površine (led i sige) kao i cijelu ploču prekriti snijegom.
  
  	Planiranje
  
  	Većina planiranja obavljena je u prošlom članku. Glavni zahtjevi i želje bili su odlučeni, a preostalo je samo odgovoriti na neka pitanja poput kada bojati koji dio, kada uliti smolu i kako dodati snijeg. Tijekom zadnjeg članka, kao i uvijek, bez obzira koliko dobro planirali stvari, postojale su neke stvari koje nisu uzete u obzir, a koje bi mogle stvoriti probleme kasnije tijekom izrade. Prvo je bilo kako prikupiti sav rastresit teksturirani materijal bez da ga jednostavno sve istresem u dvorište. Također, za ulijevanje smole i dodavanje snijega bilo je potrebno pažljivo planiranje kako se slučajno ne bi napravila greška i pokvario se prethodni korak. Na primjer, ako bih se odlučio staviti statičku travu, trebao bih je staviti prije nego što sam ulio u smolu kako bih spriječio da se zalutala statička vlakna slučajno zaglave u smolu u procesu stvrdnjavanja. Također, zaštita detalja (poput rijeka, litica i busenja / statičke trave) bila bi presudna prije dodavanja snijega kako bi se spriječilo da ih snijeg potpuno prekrije.
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon kratkog razmišljanja, smislio sam popis alata i materijala koji su mi potrebni za dovršavanje ove ploče:
  
  	- ljepila - PVA 1kg, 1x10g Superglue
  
  	- boje i sprejevi - 6 Pebeo Deco boja (crna, bijela, siva, smeđa, oker i pepela), jedan crni, pepeljasti, sivo bijeli i čisto bijeli mat akrilni sprej i jedan prozirni mat akrilni sprej
  
  	- velike pemzle br. 90, br. 40
  
  	- zračni kist
  
  	- kist veličine 16
  
  	- nekoliko korijena
  
  	- statička trave i busenovi (tri do četiri sorte)
  
  	- Clear Water Gel tvrtke Ammo by Mig Jimenez
  
  	- smola (Gedeo kristalna smola)
  
  	- Pebeo Vitrail Sky Blue boja
  
  	- 20-ak borova
  
  	- NOCH icicles
  
  	- NOCH proizvodi za snijeg (2 paketa)
  
  	- NOCH kristali leda
  
  	- snježna pjena u spreju
  
  	- skalpel
  
  	- škare
  
  	- krep traka
  
  	- tanki karton (nekoliko komada)
  
  	- prijenosni ručni usisavač
  
  	Pripremni radovi
  
  	Kao što je prethodno spomenuto, u prošlom članku sam cijeli stol prekrio teksturama - pijeskom i šljunkom. Kako nisam napravio mješavinu vode, PVA ljepila i pijeska / šljunka, već sam se odlučio prvo staviti PVA ljepilo i posipati teksturu po njemu, sada je bilo potrebno ukloniti višak pijeska i šljunka s ploče. Prilikom izrade terena u ranijim člancima, predložio sam vam veliki kartonski poklopac i jednostavno okrenuo teren iznad njega. Međutim, moja ploča je 90 x 90 cm s preko 5 kilograma i nisam imao dovoljno veliku posudu da sakupim sav preostali teksturni materijal. Jednostavno okretanje na pod moje garaže također nije dolazilo u obzir. Da bih sakupio sav (ili većinu) materijala za teksturu, koristio sam mali ručni usisavač na baterije, koji domaćice koriste za prikupljanje krušnih mrvica u kuhinji. Nekoliko minuta usisavanja uklonili su većinu suvišnog materijala. Ostatak je bio izgubljen, kad sam okrenuo tablu u dvorištu. Ali uspio sam spasiti gotovo cijelu staklenku pijeska i rastresitog materijala za ponovno korištenje.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Osnovna boja
  
  	Kad sam uklonio višak teksture, mogao sam nastaviti s bojanjem. Prvi korak kao i uvijek bio je premazivanje osnovne boje na ploču. Ovog puta sam za undercoat koristio četiri različita spreja. Sve glavne teksture (osim litica i rijeka) bile su presprejane crnom bojom. Ostatak površina, osobito: litice, gromade i rijeke najprije je bio presprejan bijelom bojom, a zatim slojem sivo-bijelog i pepela. Kad su se sprejevi osušili te sam površine opet lagano presprejao čistim bijelim sprejom. Na kraju sam se vratio crnom spreju da popravim neskladno širenje svijetlih nijansi na mjestima.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Nanošenje washeva zračnim kistom
  
  	Sljedeći korak u bojanju bio je washanje korita rijeke i svih kamenih dijelova (litica, obala i stijena). Koristio sam ove Citadel washeve: • Coelia Greenshade • Atonski kamosad • Druchii ljubičica • Nuln ulje • Seraphim Sepia • Agrax Earthshade
  
  	Za korito sam koristio samo Coelia Greenshade, Athonian Camoshade i Nuln Oil. Na kamenim dijelovima sve sam ih upotrijebio s ponavljanjima Nuln Oil i Coelia Greenshade. Kako su ove boje jako rijetke, vrijeme sušenja između slojeva je bilo dugo. Da bih skratio ovo razdoblje, koristio sam stari fen za kosu kako bih ubrzao proces sušenja. Ne zaboravite da uvijek koristite zračni pištolj (ali i sprej) u dobro prozračenim prostorima!
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Bojanje teksture
  
  	Kad sam završio s nanošenjem washeva na litice i u rijeku, došlo je vrijeme da obojam ostatak površina na mojoj ploči. Osim rijeke i litica, bojale su se dvije različite površine. Jedno je bilo normalno tlo, drugo cesta i staze. Odlučio sam obojiti sve te površine početnim slojem Pebeo Brown. Za nanošenje koristio sam najveći kist (pemzlu) koji sam mogao pronaći - veličine 90. Nakon što se sloj osušio, nanio sam sloj Pebeo Ocre samo po cesti i stazi. Opet, kad se ovaj sloj osušio, obojio sam cijelu površinu slojem Pebeo Ash. Razlika u slojevima zbog obojenja bojom Ocre na cecsti i putovima još je vidljiva. U ovom trenutku bih normalno prestao bojati. Možda bih dodao završni highlight čiste Pebeo Antique White boje samo na najviše podignute površine. Međutim, većina ove ploče bit će prekrivena snijegom, tako da sam odlučio napraviti vodoravne površine još bijelijima. Na sve površine dodao sam još dva sloja. Prvo je bilo s već spomenutom Pebeo Antique White-om, a zadnje je učinjeno s čistom Pebeo White. Imajte na umu da je razlika između normalne teksture tla i staze / površine ceste i dalje vidljiva. Također, možda ćete primijetiti da posao na bojanju nije bio uredan koliko bi mogao biti. Razlog tome bio je dvostruk. Prvo sam malo žurio s poslom. Drugo, nisam se vratio kao što bi to učinio inače, samo zato što sam bio svjestan da će na kraju većina površina biti prekrivena snijegom. Pažljivi čitatelj / gledatelj može primijetiti tragove bijelih pjega na cesti koje označavaju mjesta na kojima su zalijepljeni neki šljunak koji se odlomio tijekom bojanja. Ovdje se također nisam vratio na popravak. Jednostavno ću prekriti ta mjesta bilo snijegom ili busenom da uštedim vrijeme.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Bojanje litica
  
  	Obojati litice bilo je relativno jednostavno. Samo sam drybrush metodom nanio boju Pebeo Grey, a zatim Pebeo Whitea. Tada sam shvatio da ti slojevi prekrivaju gotovo cjelokupne efekte washeva nanesenim zračnim kistom. Stoga sam se odlučio vratiti zračnom kistu i ponovo nanijeti te slojeve, koristeći Coelia Greenshade, Athonian Camoshade, Druchii Violet i Nuln Oil. Ovaj put nisam čekao da se slojevi osuše. Umjesto toga, odlučio sam se da se washevi slobodno miješaju od pritiska iz zračnog kista.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Izrada rijeke
  
  	Nakon bojanja, došlo je vrijeme da se izradi rijeka. Veći dio rijeke imao je riječne obale načinjene od škriljaca u prošlom članku. Međutim, postojao je jedan dio niskog prijelaza (plićaka) koji nije imao visinu od ostatka korita. Da bi korito rijeke postalo cjelovito, trebalo mi je da modeliram nekakav nasip da spriječim širenje smole na cestu. Izbor je pao na Clear Water gel tvrtke Ammo by MIG. To je bijela pasta koja se osuši prozirno. Pomoću malog kista napravio sam mali nasip visok 2-3 mm i ostavio sam da se osuši preko noći.
  
  	Nažalost, te noći kiša je počela padati i temperatura se značajno spustila. To je uzrokovalo da se učinak ne osuši u potpunosti. I dalje je ostala bijela. Dok sam jurio za rokom, odlučio sam nastaviti s izlijevanjem smole, unatoč tome što gel nije bio proziran. Uvijek bih mogao naknadno prekriti ovaj dio snijegom.
  
  	Za rijeku sam se odlučio koristiti Gedeo kristalnom smolom. Brz izračun koji se temelji na grubim procjenama da je rijeka široka 5 cm i duga 90 cm, zajedno s mojom željom da rijeka bude duboka 1-2 mm, rezultirala je rezultatom da mi je potrebno 45-90 ml smole. Kristalna smola Gedeo je smola kojoj se iznova vraćam, ponajviše zato što je dvokomponentna smola koja se miješa u volumnom omjeru 2: 1. To ju čini vrlo jednostavnom za korištenje u gotovo svim potrebnim količinama. Za vrijeme rada sa zračnim kistom potrošio sam sav Nuln Oil. Srećom, spremio sam bočicu od 24 ml. Upotreba dva punjenja smole (48ml) i jednog punjenja (24ml) osigurala je da imam 72ml smole. Gotovo savršeno za moju rijeku. Za lagano nijansiranje smole koristio sam Pebeo Vitrail Sky Blue boju. Ne zaboravite dodati boju nakon što ste pomiješali smolu i učvršćivač kako biste osigurali da se smola pravilno stvrdne.
  
  	Također, smjesa smole je prilično hlapljiva i čak može proizvesti nešto topline, jer je stvrdnjavanje egzotermna reakcija, pa se preporučuje uporaba zaštitnih rukavica.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Dodavanje pigmenata
  
  	U ovom trenutku još uvijek nisam bio zadovoljan izgledom svojih litica pa sam odlučio dodati malo pigmenata na njih. Koristeći pigmente boje hrđe i oker koji se nasumično nanose na litice, dodao sam suptilne tonove. Na pojedinim mjestima nisu bili tako suptilni. Pigmente sam fiksirao pomoću AK Interactive Pigment Fixer-a velikim kistom (veličina 16).
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Korjenje na liticama
  
  	Kako bih na liticama dodao još neke raznolikosti, odlučio sam dodati malo korijenja. Ako se sjećate iz prošlog članka, krenuo sam u šetnju brdima, gdje sam sakupio kamenje s kojim sam izrađivao litice. Na istom pohodu sakupio sam i malo korijena iz prevrnutog stabla drveća. Oni, kada se operu, čine izvrsna stabla, suho grmlje i čak korijenje u našem malom mjerilu. Super ljepilom sam ih fiksirao na željena mjesta pazeći da sam zalijepio oba kraja. Ovako ih neće biti lako pomaknuti ili strgati tijekom igranja. Alternativno, možete ih uvijek zabiti pomoću stvarno tanke žice.
  
  	  
  
  	Dodavanje snijega na crnogoricu
  
  	Sljedeći korak bio je dodavanje stabala. Odlučio sam upotrijebiti NOCH crnogoričnu šumu koja dolaze u vrećici od 50 komada. Posadio sam 20 njih na svoju ploču. Prije nego što sam ih zalijepio za ploču, odlučio sam ih obojiti u bijelo i dodati malo snijega. Prvo sam ih nasprejao pomoću bijelog mat akrilnog spreja. Meni ovo još uvijek nije dovoljno bijelo pa sam za drybrushao Pebeo White s kistom veličine 16. Budite oprezni, ovo je neuredan postupak i dobit ćete bijelu boju posvuda kao što svjedoči moja majica. Kad se bijela boja osušila, stabla sam posipao snježnom pjenom iz spreja. To je dodalo malo volumena snježnom efektu koji sam išao. Kad se pjena osušila, posprejao sam stabla prozirnim mat akrilnim sprejom kako bih dodao još čvrstoće snježnoj pjeni.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Nisko raslinje
  
  	Dok se snijeg sušio na crnogorici, odlučio sam dodati još malo srednje do niske vegetacije na svoju ploču. Još jednom sam se okrenuo korijenima pokupljenim na Medvednici. Koristio sam korijenje cool izgleda koji su imali najmanje dvije do tri grane da napravim nekoliko niskih grana koje rastu sa litica moje ploče. Zalijepio sam ih proizvoljno oko litica, samo pazeći da se neće ometati minijaturama u igri. Za ljepljenje sam upotrijebio super ljepilo. Ako ste zabrinuti da bi se grane mogle otkinuti, uvijek ih možete pričvrstiti žicama ili spajalicama za litice.
  
  	  
  
  	Led na rijeci
  
  	Kad se smola potpuno očvrsnula, mogao sam dodati malo leda na obalama rijeke. Srećom, tijekom natjecanja Iron Painter 2017, otkrio sam novi proizvod koji željeznički modelari koriste za dodavanje leda u svoje rijeke. Izrađuje ga njemačka tvrtka NOCH. Njihovi ledeni kristali dolaze u gumenoj cijevi i neka su vrsta paste koja se može nanijeti izravno iz cijevi u smrznuto jezero, zimski ribnjak, na ulicu ili na prozore i nakon toga ih lako modelirati kistom. Jednom kada se osuši daje svjetlucavi učinak leda. Koristio sam veliki kist (veličine 16) kako bih je nanio na obale rijeke. Pobrinuo sam se da sloj ne bude ujednačen što ga čini užim i širim, nižim i višim, a čak sam stavio i par komada unutar rijeke.
  
  	Također, nakon što se osuši, možete dodati neki bistri vodni gel tvrtke Ammo by Mig da oblikujete struje ako želite. Odlučio sam da neću jer ne želim da moja rijeka ima brzace.
  
  	  
  
  	Sige
  
  	Drugi NOCH proizvod koji sam otkrio nastupajući na Iron Painteru 2017 bila je NOCH Icicles. Ovo je stvarno jednostavan proizvod za korištenje koji izlazi iz gumene cijevi kao mali crv. Očito je neka vrsta smole koja se prozirno osuši i ima prilično veliku krutost. Savršeno za izradu siga. Odlučio sam ih koristiti samo oko rijeke na liticama i niskim granama. Na taj način, grane pokrivene NOCH Icicles ne samo da bi izgledale smrznute, već bi bile i krutije što će spriječiti lom tijekom igranja.
  
  	  
  
  	Niska vegetacija
  
  	Kako će većina table biti prekrivena snijegom, odlučio sam ne koristiti generičku statičku travu, već sam se opredijelio busenove, ali u malo većoj količini. Busenovi koje sam koristio su iz Gamer's Grass i dolaze u raznim bojama, visini i veličini. Koristio sam duljine: 12 mm, 6 mm i 4 mm u bež, zimskoj, suhoj i jesenskoj boji, kao i špičastoj i naboranoj varijanti koja je dodala prilično karaktera stijenama ispod kojih sam ih zalijepio PVA ljepilom.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Ljepljenje crnogorice
  
  	Ovisno o drveću koje imate, možete ih staviti na svoju tablu na nekoliko načina. Prvo, i najlakše je lijepiti stabla pomoću PVA ljepila. Kako su moja stabla imala izmodelirano korijenje, odabrao sam ovu metodu. Ne samo što pružaju dovoljno široko područje da ljepilo djeluje, činjenica da su korijeni modelirani učinili su ih dovoljno realnima da se mogu koristiti onakvima kakva jesu. Međutim, neka stabla dolaze na kružnoj bazi (promjera oko 1 - 2 cm). Ako ih koristite, moj savjet bi bio da uklonite kružnu podlogu i dodate žičani zatik (pomoću ručne ili električne bušilice). To će osigurati dodatnu snagu veze. Oko stabla bih predložio sadnju neke niske vegetacije (ili snijega u ovom slučaju) kako biste sakrili činjenicu da nema korijena.
  
  	  
  
  	Dodavanje snijega
  
  	Posljednja stvar koja će se dodati ovoj ploči bit će snijeg. Moj početni plan bio je pokriti cijelu ploču (bez rijeke, veći dijela litica, puteva i staza) s nekoliko slojeva NOCH snježnih proizvoda zalijepljenih debelim slojem PVA ljepila. Međutim, to mi se činilo kao bacanje materijala (i proizvoda od snijega i PVA ljepila), pa sam odlučio koristiti NOCH snijeg samo ispod drveća. Nanio sam debeli sloj PVA ljepila oko drveća i velikom žlicom posipala proizvod snijega. Također, u isto vrijeme koristio sam mješavinu PVA ljepila, vode i bijele boje za oblaganje nekih ledenih površina na rijeci. Ta su područja također bila prekrivena proizvodom od snijega.
  
  	Ostatak površina posipao sam snježnom pjenom iz spreja. Sveukupno sam potrošio dva spreja. Oko osjetljivih područja poput rijeke, litica i statičke trave koristio sam tanki karton kako bih ih zaštitio od struje snijega. Jednom kad se pjena osušila, posprejao sam sve prozirnim mat akrilnim sprejom da se pjena dodatno učvrsti. Na ovaj način uštedio sam i novac i vrijeme jer je ovo uistinu brza metoda. Iako zbog igranja na ploči, očekujem da će se snijeg oguliti. No, snježna pjena iz spreja košta manje od 10kn po komadu, tako da troškovi popravka nisu visoki.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Završena tabla
  
  	Nakon nekoliko tjedana isprekidanog građenja, Frostgrave ploča je bila gotova. Sveukupno je koštala manje od 500kn sa svim upotrijebljenim materijalima (od čega je polovica smola i crnogorica).
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
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  Marko Paunović, 27.09.2020.
• Izrada igraće table – dio 1.

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      ["title_eng"]=>
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  	In the past issues I've been dealing with various forms of terrain for my Malifaux games and I've even done a modular gaming board for all the wild west themed terrain. These past few months I was busy participating in the Iron Painter so I welcomed the one issue break I've had with my Malifaux terrain builds. That said, I missed it. A lot. But participating in such a cool event like Iron Painter, where you are surrounded by great artists and are pushed to your limits, makes you improve your abbilities and more often than not provides you with plenty of ideas for future projects. This year was no different. So, even while competing, I've been drumming up ideas what to do next and I must admit up until the last round of Iron Painter I was unsure of what to do. But then the „Snowpocalypse“ theme was announced and I started doing a diorama out of a bust and there it hit me. Wouldn't it be really cool to have a whole gaming board that was done like that 8x8cm base? So, in this and the next issue I'll give it a go!
  
  	Careful readers will already know my mantra about any and all big projects I undertake. When starting a project of such magnitude, always plan ahead. Try to think of all the things you want featured in your project. From that, you'll be able to get the tools and materials you need. And once you finish that list, you'll have the outline of the activities you need to perform and what order they should come in. So, the idea is to have a single board for my Malifaux games which means I would require a 90x90cm (3'x3') board. At this point, presumably wooden. Then I started planning what features to place on my board. I decided to go with a frozen river, with a couple of crossings one of which would be a bridge. I'd also want at least one road and several paths that wouldn't be (entirely) covered with snow. I'd also want to add some levels to my board so it wouldn't be just flat. Two or three levels would be perfect. Since this wouldn't be a fixed terrain board, I'd still need plenty of flat areas to place the scenery before my games. Right about this time during the planning, I remembered I had some untouched resin terrain pieces from a Croatian company called Tabletop World. They produce high quality resin terrain. However, they only to fantasy/medieval type of buildings. I decided to use them as mock-up for my future terrain for Malifaux while planning out the outline.
  
  	  
  
  	Planning
  
  	So, once the planning was done, I compiled a list of needs and wants that would hopefully help me with the material and tool lists as well as keep me focused on the project itself (so I don't add too many extra details that would clutter the board):
  
  	1. one board, single piece, sturdy and not easily broken N
  
  	1.1. size of the entire board: 90 x 90cm (or as close as possible) N
  
  	2. Water feature N
  
  	2.1. frozen river N
  
  	2.2. several crossings of the river N
  
  	2.3. one of the crossings should be a proper bridge W
  
  	3. roads etc. W
  
  	3.1. dirt paths – several leading from areas reserved for buildings to the main road N
  
  	3.2. main road – leading to and from the bridge (or wide crossing) N
  
  	4. levels N
  
  	4.1. second level (2cm – height of a single HD styrofoam board) N
  
  	4.2. third level (if possible – 2x 2cm HD styrofoam board or single 5cm board) W
  
  	5. flat areas for future terrain and buildings N
  
  	6. materials to be used – as light as possible W
  
  	7. frame – sturdy that won't bend or break easily to protect the main body of the board N
  
  	  
  
  	After the list was compiled, already some things were begining to become clear so I could make my preliminary sketch. Fortunately, right about the time I was starting this project, the Mrs and I decided to get rid of our bed base that was made of two solid 19mm thick plywood boards which happened to be 90x200cm in size. So I figured, I'd cut one board into two 90x90cm piceces and have bases for two boards. Almost perfect as I would need to do some preparation work on the board to plug the holes and fill the edges where the board was cut. As for the rest of the needs and wants, I'd need something to make the frame (at this point, presumably some wooden slats), several pieces of HD styrofoam, some roots and some slate. Rest of the materials would be usual – super glue, PVA glue, several types of gravel and sand, some DAS clay and some plaster. For the river, I will need some resin – but not too much as the whole idea is to have a shallow, frozen river. In the end obviously, I'd also need copious ammounts of snow material, something to make ice and several packages of paste to make the icicles.
  
  	  
  
  	- glues - PVA 1kg, 1x10g Superglue
  
  	- paints and spreys - 6 Pebeo Deco Paints (Black, White, Grey, Brown, Ochre and Ash), one black, ash, off white and pure white matt acrylic spreys and one clear matt acrylic sprey
  
  	- large brushes No 90, No 40
  
  	- airbrush
  
  	- brush size 16
  
  	- high density styrofoam - 1 board (1200 x 600 x 20 mm)
  
  	- high density styrofoam – 1 board (1200 x 600 x 50 mm)
  
  	- wooden slats - four pieces (25 or 30 x 5 x 1000 mm)
  
  	- up to twenty M2,5x15 screws
  
  	- balsa wood 4mm thick (10 x 1000 mm)
  
  	- DAS air drying clay (1kg)
  
  	- plaster (1 kg)
  
  	- sand and gravel (four or five sizes)
  
  	- small bagful of slate
  
  	- several roots
  
  	- plastic foil
  
  	- static grass and scatter (three to four sorts)
  
  	- Resin (Gedeo Crystal Resin or just Extra Heavy Gel by Vallejo)
  
  	- NOCH icicles
  
  	- NOCH snow products (2 packages)
  
  	- NOCH ice crystals
  
  	- scalpel blade
  
  	- scissors
  
  	- screwdriver
  
  	- chisel and hammer
  
  	- electric drill
  
  	- pin-vice
  
  	- circular saw
  
  	- jig saw
  
  	- disc sander
  
  	- vibro-sander
  
  	- modeller's saw
  
  	- sanding paper
  
  	- masking tape
  
  	Here, I included both electric and hand held tools. Obviously, you can use only one of these. If you don't have electric ones, the hand held ones will do the job just the same. It'll just take a bit longer and perhapes make you sweat a little bit. I don't like sweat, so I use electric ones.
  
  	Also, when doing such a list, you can also add the location of a store where you can buy those items and it'll make your shopping easier and faster. When all summed up, I reckon, my board wouldn't cost a lot (apart from the snow and water feature accessories).
  
  	  
  
  	Preparation work
  
  	As mentioned above, the first thing I had to do was to fill the round holes in the board. I had a long debate how to do it, but in the end I decided the easiest way would be to fill it with plaster. So I cut enough pieces of plastic foil and taped them to one side (that would be the top side) of the board using masking tape. Then I flipped the board over and I mixed about half a litre of plaster and poured it in the holes. The plaster was about 0,5-1cm thick. Once it cured, I decided to use PVA glue for added strength. I left the glue and plaster to cure for a couple of days as we were in the middle of the winter and I do all my terrain work in an unheated garage.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Start of the build
  
  	With the holes plugged, I could now finally start to build my board. Needless to say, I flipped the board over so the top side would be up and I removed the masking tape with the plastic foils. It was at this time that I took out the Tabletop World terrain and placed them around the board. Once I had them placed, I used my red and black markers to draw the design on the board itself. I wasn't quite satisfied with the setup so I replaced the bridge and drew its outline once again. I may actually use this bridge in my Malifaux games as well! When the outline was drawn, I cut the HD styrofoam bits to size and carefully placed them on my board. I also placed the TTW terrain on the styrofoam boards to make sure I have enough space around them for my models to move during games. When I was satisfied with the setup, I used PVA glue to glue the styrofoam boards in place. Also, I secured the bond using masking tape that would be removed once the PVA glue set.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Building the board frame
  
  	When the styrofoam bits were glued, I went on to do the frame of the board. In the DIY store, I managed to get four 25x5x1000mm linden slats. I cut them to size using my jig saw and making sure I had 1cm more than I needed to. This way, I could sand down the sides of the frames at 45 degree angle so they would fit perfectly.
  
  	Remember, you can always use a modeller's saw, sanding paper and screwdriver instead of jig saw, disc sander and a drill with screw end.
  
  	Using 5mm balsa wood, I cut several strips to plug the gap on one of the edges of the board and then proceeded to secure the frames to the board using M2,5x15 screws. I used three per side and once the screws were in place I filled the small crevices between the board and the frames using PVA glue for added strength of the bond.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	IDEAS
  
  	During my Snowpocalypse entry (Frozen Stiff, by the way), I used slate to make the cliffs. For that build, I needed only a handful. But for this, I figured I'd need a bit more. Fortunately for me, the Medvednica hill next to Zagreb where I live, is full of slate so I decided to take a hike with a mate and go gather a bagful of broken stones. During these hikes, I like to take photos of nature as it is really a good source of inspiration. Once back, I had to wash the stones in soapy water to remove the dirt because the paint wouldn't stick to the stones properly otherwise. I used warm water and several repeats of the process until I got almost clear soapy water. I left it to dry for a couple of days near a heater. When the slate was dry, I stored them in two boxes. One was for really large pieces and the other was for smaller ones and debris. This would speed up the proces of choosing the stones while making the river bank and cliffs.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Making the Terrain Features
  
  	Breaking of the pieces of slate
  
  	One of the advantages of using slate is that it is a really soft material that is a result of its metamorphosis. It is a fine-grained, foliated, homogeneous metamorphic rock derived from an original shale-type sedimentary rock composed of clay or volcanic ash through low-grade regional metamorphism. It is the finest grained foliated metamorphic rock. Foliation may not correspond to the original sedimentary layering, but instead is in planes perpendicular to the direction of metamorphic compression. In other words, it is full of layers and by using just a little force, you can split it into smaller/thinner pieces. For that I wanted to use a chisel which I couldn't find. Being lazy, I dropped the search and I ended up using a normal screwdriver instead.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	River banks
  
  	Once I had all the pieces of slate I needed, I proceeded to glue the slate along the future riverbank. I used pieces that were 0,5-1cm high and spread them evenly along the banks. I also glued several pieces inside the riverbed to form the future river crossings. It will be up to the players to decide whether it would be considered difficult terrain or not.
  
  	  
  
  	Cliffs
  
  	Originally, I wanted to make all the cliffs with slate. Just place them piece by piece and glue them in place. And afterwards, use plaster to plug the gaps between the styrofoam body of the „hill“ and the sides made from slate. However, overall there was over 3m of 2cm high cliffs so I decided against it. At least until I tried something first.
  
  	I placed a layer of DAS air drying clay around all my cliffs and I used a layer of watered down PVA glue to fix it better to the styrofoam sides. While the clay was still wet and malleable, I pressed a larger piece of slate into it to form the face of the cliff. Once I've done it to the entire cliff, I added smaller pieces of slate and stuck them into the clay and left them there to be glued. This way, I saved on rock and time as it was a really fast procedure with only slightly lower standard of finish.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Leveling of the terrain around the rocky river banks
  
  	As the riverbanks and the cliffs were now dry, I now had to level out the slightly higher area around the riverbank to the rest of the board. To do that, I once again made some plaster. It is the same one I used to plug the gaps on the board, but it turned pinky because I used the same water I used to soften up the red clay and it coloured the plaster. I made sure the plaster wasn't too much like a liquid. I wanted a consistency of a paste so that I could form the angle that I wanted and not have it run.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Sanding the plaster
  
  	While I was pouring the plaster to level the ground around the riverbanks, I noticed some of my plaster fills of the holes in the board protruded slightly. Because the holes were perfect circles, I needed to sand down the excess material because once the board was textured and painted, I would definitely show as too regular a form. I used my vibro-sander, but you could use normal sanding paper as well. When I was done with sanding, I made sure I collected all the debris from the board because the next step was texture!
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Adding texture
  
  	Adding the texture has two main purposes. First one, obviously is the aesthetics. The more texture, the better the terrain looks. However, in some places there is another purpose to the texture. Depending on the materials you use (like styrofoam), some spreys may melt the base of your terrain which is something you definitely do not want. That's why you use watered down PVA glue mixed with some sand.
  
  	Luckily for me, most of my board is wooden and/or covered with plaster so I don't need to take care that the mixture of water and PVA be in favour of PVA so it offers a protective coat. However, there are some places where there is only styrofoam. Here, I will need to take care. That said, due to the whole theme of the board, all would not be lost if I missed the texture in several places. Why? because even if the sprey melts the styrofoam in places, the board will be covered in snow in the end so I can always cover up my mistakes.
  
  	  
  
  	Riverbed
  
  	I started with the riverbed first. As the whole idea of the river is that it is mostly frozen, I decided to use the simplest method and use just one size of sand, the smallest. I covered the entire surface of the river with slightly watered down PVA and sprinkled a layer of chinchilla sand. I left it to dry overnight.
  
  	  
  
  	Road and the dirt paths
  
  	I used several sizes of sand and gravel on the main road. As with the river, I first covered the entire area using a slightly diluted PVA glue with water (just enough so it would spread easily). I then sprinkled the largest grain sporadically in the middle of the road. Around the largest pieces I then sprinkled slightly smaller pebbles. In the end I finished with the smallest grain chinchilla sand.
  
  	Dirt paths and the areas where the buildings/other terrain would be placed during the games, was done only using chinchilla sand.
  
  	  
  
  	Other textures
  
  	Rest of the textures were done using two different sizes of grain. Somewhere in the middle between the small pebbles and chinchilla sand used on the main road. Once again, I smeared the watered down mixture of PVA glue. However, this time before sprinkling the sand, I placed several pieces of slate. I carefully picked the places where I placed them so that they wouldn't be in the way of the future terrain. This would add some more detail to the whole board and would help break the large flat areas even if the terrain isn't there. When I was satisfied with the placement and the quantity of slate pieces, I sprinkled the larger of the two grains followed by the smaller grain.
  
  	  
  
  	In the next article, I'll tackle the leftover sand and gravel that didn't glue to the base. Then I'll paint the board and add various vegetation. Water will also be added into the riverbed and I'll also be adding various winter accessories, like snow, ice and icicles.
  "
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  	U prošlim izdanjima bavio sam se različitim oblicima terena za svoje igre u Malifauxu, a čak sam i napravio modularnu igraću ploču za sve terene na divljem zapadu. Sada je bilo vrijeme za nešto drugo i pomislio sam: Ne bi li bilo super imati čitavu igraću ploču koja je napravljena display baze na figurama za natjecanje, i još k tome smjestiti tablu u zimu? Dakle, u ovom i sljedećem članku bavit ću se time!
  
  	Pažljivi čitatelji već će znati moju mantru o svim velikim projektima koje poduzimam. Kada započinjete projekt takve veličine, uvijek planirajte unaprijed. Pokušajte smisliti sve stvari koje želite sadržavati u vašem projektu. Iz toga ćete moći dobiti potrebne alate i materijale. Nakon što završite taj popis, imat ćete pregled aktivnosti koje trebate obaviti i kojim redoslijedom bi trebali ići. Dakle, ideja je imati jednu ploču za moje igre u Malifauxu, što znači da bih trebao 90x90cm ( 3'x3 ') ploča. U ovom trenutku, vjerojatno drveni. Tada sam počeo planirati koje će se značajke staviti na moju ploču. Odlučio sam krenuti sa zaleđenom rijekom, s par prijelaza od kojih će jedan biti most. Želio bih barem jednu cestu i nekoliko staza koje ne bi bile (u potpunosti) prekrivene snijegom. Također bih htio dodati nekoliko razina na svoju ploču kako ne bi bilo jednostavno ravno. Dvije ili tri razine bile bi savršene. Kako ovo neće biti ploča s nepokretnim terenom, još uvijek će mi trebati dosta ravnih površina da postavim scenografiju prije igara. Baš u ovo vrijeme, tijekom planiranja, sjetio sam se da Udruga ima netaknute komade terena od hrvatske hrvatske tvrtke Tabletop World. Oni proizvode rezinske terene visoke kvalitete. Međutim, oni samo rade fantastične / srednjovjekovne tipove zgrada. Odlučio sam ih upotrijebiti kao nacrt mog budućeg terena za Malifaux, planirajući tako obrise. Ili jednostavno napraviti stol za Frostgrave!
  
  	  
  
  	Planiranje
  
  	Dakle, nakon planiranja, sastavio sam popis potreba i želja koje će mi, nadam se, pomoći u spisku materijala i alata, kao i usredotočiti se na sam projekt (tako da ne dodajem previše dodatnih detalja koji bi zatrpali ploču): 1. jedna ploča, jednodijelna, čvrsta Z 1.1. veličina cijele ploče: 90 x 90cm (ili što je moguće bliže) Z 2. vodeni efekti Z 2.1. smrznuta rijeka Z 2.2. nekoliko prelaza rijeke Z 2.2. jedan od prijelaza trebao bi biti pravi most Ž 3. ceste itd. Ž 3.1. zemljani putevi - nekoliko koji vode od područja rezerviranih za zgrade do glavne ceste Z 3.2. glavna cesta - koja vodi na i sa mosta (ili širokim križanjem) Z 4. razine Z 4.1. druga razina (2 cm - visina jedne ploče stirodura) Z 4.2. treća razina (ako je moguće - 2x ploča stirodura 2 cm ili pojedinačna ploča od 5 cm) Ž 5. ravna područja za budući teren i zgrade Z 5. upotrijebiti materijale - što je moguće lakše Ž 6. okvir - čvrst koji se neće savijati ili lako slomiti radi zaštite glavnog tijela ploče Z
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon sastavljanja popisa, neke su stvari počinjale postajati jasne kako bih mogao napraviti svoju preliminarnu skicu. Srećom, baš u vrijeme kad sam započeo ovaj projekt, gospođa i ja odlučili smo se riješiti našeg kreveta koji je bio napravljen od dvije čvrste ploče iverice debljine 19 mm, veličine oko 90 x 200 cm. Pa sam zaključio da ću jednu ploču izrezati na dvije ploče veličine 90x90cm i imati baze za dvije table. Gotovo savršeno. Gotovo jer bih trebao obaviti neke pripreme na ploči kako bih zapunio rupe i popunio rubove na kojima je ploča bila izrezana. Što se tiče ostalih potreba i želja, trebao bih nešto za izradu okvira (u ovom trenutku, vjerojatno drvene letvice), nekoliko komada stirodura, nešto korijenja i nešto škriljevca. Ostatak materijala bi bio uobičajen - super ljepilo, PVA ljepilo, nekoliko vrsta šljunka i pijeska, nešto DAS glinamola i nešto gipsa. Za rijeku će mi trebati malo rezina - ali ne previše jer je cijela ideja imati plitku, smrznutu rijeku. Na kraju, očito, trebam i obilnu količinu snježnog materijala, nešto za napraviti led i nekoliko paketa paste za izradu siga.
  
  	  
  
  	- ljepila - PVA 1kg, 1x10g Superglue
  
  	- boje i sprejevi - 6 Pebeo Deco boja (crna, bijela, siva, smeđa, oker i pepela), jedan crni, pepeljasti, sivo bijeli i čisto bijeli mat akrilni sprej i jedan prozirni mat akrilni sprej
  
  	- velike pemzle br. 90, br. 40
  
  	- zračni kist
  
  	- veličina kista 16
  
  	- stirodur - 1 ploča (1200 x 600 x 20 mm)
  
  	- stirodur - 1 ploča (1200 x 600 x 50 mm)
  
  	- drvene letvice - četiri komada (25 ili 30 x 5 x 1000 mm)
  
  	- do dvadeset M2,5x15 vijaka
  
  	- balza debljine 4mm (10 x 1000 mm)
  
  	- DAS glinamol (1kg)
  
  	- gips (1 kg)
  
  	- pijesak i šljunak (četiri ili pet veličina)
  
  	- mala vreća od škriljevca
  
  	- nekoliko korijena
  
  	- plastična folija
  
  	- statička trava i busenovi (tri do četiri sorte)
  
  	- Smola (Gedeo kristalna smola ili samo ekstra težak gel od Vallejo)
  
  	- NOCH icicles
  
  	- NOCH proizvodi za snijeg (2 paketa)
  
  	- NOCH kristali leda
  
  	- skalpel
  
  	- škare
  
  	- odvijač
  
  	- dlijeto i čekić
  
  	- električna bušilica
  
  	- ručna bušilica
  
  	- kružna pila
  
  	- pila
  
  	- brusilica
  
  	- vibro-brusilica
  
  	- pila za modele
  
  	- brusni papir
  
  	- krep traka
  
  	Ovdje u popis sam uključio i električni i ručni alat. Očito možete koristiti samo jedan. Ako nemate električne, ručni će jednako tako obaviti posao. Samo će potrajati malo duže i moždas će vas malo naznojiti. Ne volim znoj, pa koristim električne.
  
  	Također, kada radite takav popis, možete dodati i lokaciju trgovine u kojoj možete kupiti te predmete, a to će učiniti vašu kupovinu lakšom i bržom. Kad se sve zbroji, smatram da moja ploča neće koštati puno (osim dodataka za snijeg i vodu).
  
  	  
  
  	Pripremni radovi
  
  	Kao što je gore spomenuto, prvo što sam trebao učiniti je napuniti okrugle rupe u ploči. Imao sam dugu debatu kako to učiniti, ali na kraju sam odlučio da je najlakši način da ga napunim gipsom. Izrezao dovoljno komada plastične folije i zalijepio ih na jednu stranu (to bi bila gornja strana) ploče pomoću krep trake. Zatim sam prevrnuo ploču i pomiješao sam oko pola litre gipsa i ulio ga u rupe. Gips je bio dubine oko 0,5-1cm. Nakon što se očvrsnuo, odlučio sam upotrijebiti PVA ljepilo za dodatnu snagu. Ostavio sam ljepilo i gips da se stvrdne nekoliko dana, jer smo bili usred zime, a sve svoje radove na terenimu radim u negrijanoj garaži.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Početak izrade
  
  	Kad su rupe začepljene, napokon sam mogao započeti s izgradnjom ploče. Okrenuo sam dasku tako da gornja strana bude opet gore i skinuo sam krep traku s plastičnim folijama. U to sam vrijeme postavio terene Tabletop World. Jednom kad sam ih postavio, upotrijebio sam crvene i crne markere da bih ucrtao dizajn na samu ploču. Nisam bio baš zadovoljan s postavljanjem pa sam zamijenio most i još jednom nacrtao njegove obrise. Kad sam nacrtao obris, izrezao sam komade stirodura i pažljivo ih stavio na svoju ploču. Također sam stavio TTW teren na stiroporne ploče kako bih bio siguran da imam dovoljno prostora oko njih da se moji modeli mogu kretati tijekom igara. Kad sam bio zadovoljan postavljanjem, PVA ljepilom sam zaljepio komade stirodura na njihova mjesta. Također sam vezu učvrstio krep trakom koju ću ukloniti nakon što se PVA ljepilo osuši.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Izrada okvira table
  
  	Kad su se zalijepili dijelovi stirodura, nastavio sam raditi okvir ploče. U Bauhausu sam uspio nabaviti četiri letvice od lipe veličine 25x5x1000 mm. Narezao sam ih na veličinu pomoću pile i osigurao da imam 1cm više nego što mi je potrebno. Na ovaj način mogao bih obložiti stranice okvira pod kutom od 45 stupnjeva kako bi se savršeno uklopili.
  
  	Imajte na umu da uvijek možete koristiti pilu za modeliranje, brusni papir i odvijač umjesto ubodne pile, brusilice i bušilice.
  
  	Koristeći balzu debljine 5 mm, izrezao sam nekoliko traka kako bih pokrio rupu na jednom od rubova ploče, a zatim nastavio pričvršćivati okvire na ploču vijcima M2,5x15. Koristio sam tri po svakoj bočnoj strani te sam napunio male pukotine između ploče i okvira pomoću PVA ljepila za dodatnu čvrstoću veze.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	IDEJE
  
  	Za vrijeme izrade diorame Snowpocalypse (iliti, Frozen Stiff) koristio sam škriljevac za pravljenje litica. Za tu sam izgradnju trebao samo nekoliko šačica. A za ovu tablu sam zaključio da ću trebati još malo. Srećom po mene, brdo Medvednica je puna škriljevca, pa sam odlučio prošetati s prijateljem i otići skupiti vreću slomljenog kamenja. Tijekom ovih planinarenja volim fotografirati prirodu jer je zaista dobar izvor inspiracije. Kad sam se vratio, morao sam oprati kamenje u sapunskoj vodi da uklonim prljavštinu jer se boja inače ne bi dobro držala na kamenju. Koristio sam toplu vodu i nekoliko ponavljanja postupka dok nisam dobio skoro čistu sapunicu. Ostavio sam da se osuši nekoliko dana u blizini grijača. Kad se škriljevac osušio, spremio sam ih u dvije kutije. Jedan je za stvarno velike komade, a drugi za manje i krhotine. To će ubrzati postupak izbora kamenja pri izradi obale i litica.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	IZRADA I OBLIKOVANJE TERENA
  
  	Trganje škriljevca
  
  	Jedna od prednosti upotrebe škriljevca je ta što je to stvarno mekan materijal koji je rezultat njegovog postanka. To je sitnozrnata, lisnata, homogena metamorfna stijena, izvedena iz izvorne sedimentne stijene škriljaca sastavljene od gline ili vulkanskog pepela putem regionalnog metamorfizma niske klase. To je najfinija zrnata folirana metamorfna stijena. Folijarnost možda ne odgovara izvornom sedimentnom sloju, već je u ravninama okomitim na smjer metamorfne kompresije. Drugim riječima, puna je slojeva i pomoću samo malo sile možete ga podijeliti na manje / tanje komade. Za to sam želio upotrijebiti dlijeto koji nisam mogao pronaći. Budući da sam lijen, prekinuo sam potragu i umjesto toga posao odradio normalnim odvijačem.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Obale rijeke
  
  	Nakon što sam napravio sve potrebne komade škriljevca, nastavio sam ih lijepiti duž buduće obale rijeke. Koristio sam komade visoke 0,5-1cm i ravnomjerno ih rasporedio duž obala. Također sam zalijepio nekoliko komada unutar korita kako bih oblikovao buduće riječne prijelaze. Igrači će odlučiti hoće li to smatrati teškim terenom ili ne.
  
  	  
  
  	Litice
  
  	Izvorno sam htio napraviti sve litice škriljevcem. Samo ih stavite komad po komad i zalijepite ih na mjesto. A nakon toga, gipsom zapunite praznine između tijela stirodurnog „brda“ i stranica napravljenih od škriljevca. Međutim, sveukupno je bilo preko 3m litice visoke 2cm, tako da sam odustao od toga. Barem dok prvo nisam probao nešto.
  
  	Položio sam sloj DAS glinamola oko svih svojih litica i koristio sam sloj natopljenog PVA ljepila da ga bolje pričvrstim na stranice stirodura. Dok je glinamol još uvijek bio vlažan i gipak, gurnuo sam veći komad škriljevca u njega kako bih oblikovao lice litice. Nakon što sam to učinio na cijeloj litici, dodao sam manje komade škriljevca i ubacio ih u glinamol i ostavio ih da se zalijepe Ovim načinom uštedio sam na materijalu i vremenu jer je to bio zaista brz postupak s tek nešto nižim standardom završetka.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Izravnavanje terena oko kamenih obala.
  
  	Kako su se korita rijeke i litice sada osušila, sada sam morao izravnati nešto višu površinu oko korita do ostatka ploče. Da bih to učinio, još jednom sam umješao gips. To je isti onaj koji sam koristio za punjenje rupa na ploči, ali postalo je ružičasto jer sam istu vodu koristio za omekšavanje crvene gline, koja je obojala gips. Pobrinuo sam se da gips nije previše tekući. Želio sam konzistenciju paste kako bih mogao oblikovati kut koji sam želio, a ne da iscuri.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Brušenje gipsa
  
  	Dok sam uljevao gips kako bih izravnao zemlju oko obala, primijetio sam kako neki moji odljevci gipsa u rupama na ploči ploči blago strše. Budući da su rupe bile savršeni krugovi, morao sam postrugati višak materijala jer kad bi daska bila teksturirana i obojena, definitivno bi se vidio kao previše pravilan oblik. Koristio sam tračnu brusilicu, ali možete koristiti i uobičajeni brusni papir. Kad sam završio s brušenjem, sakupio sam svu nečistoću s ploče jer je sljedeći korak bio tekstura!
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Dodavanje teksture
  
  	Dodavanje teksture ima dvije glavne svrhe. Prvo je očito estetika. Što je više teksture, bolji će teren izgledati. Međutim, na nekim mjestima tekstura ima i drugu svrhu. Ovisno o materijalima koje koristite (poput stirodura), neki sprejevi mogu otopiti bazu vašeg terena, što definitivno ne želite. Zato upotrebljavate razvodnjeno PVA ljepilo pomiješano s malo pijeska.
  
  	Srećom po mene, veći dio moje ploča je drven i / ili prekrivena gipsom, tako da ne moram voditi računa da mješavina vode i PVA bude većinski PVA tako da tvori zaštitni premaz. Međutim, postoje mjesta na kojima postoji samo stirodur. Na tim mjestima morao sam paziti. Iako, zbog čitave teme ploče, ne bi bilo strašno ako bih izostavio teksturu na nekoliko mjesta. Zašto? Jer čak i ako sprej otopi stirodur na mjestima, ploča će na kraju biti prekrivena snijegom, tako da uvijek mogu prikriti svoje pogreške.
  
  	  
  
  	Korito rijeke
  
  	Prvo sam počeo s koritom rijeke. Kako je cijela ideja rijeke da je uglavnom smrznuta, odlučio sam se poslužiti najjednostavnijom metodom i upotrijebiti samo jednu veličinu pijeska, najmanju. Pokrio sam cijelu površinu rijeke lagano razvodnjenim PVA ljepilom i posipao sve slojem pijeska za činčile. Ostavio sam da se osuši preko noći.
  
  	  
  
  	Cesta i putovi
  
  	Na glavnoj cesti koristio sam nekoliko veličina pijeska i šljunka. Kao i kod rijeke, prvo sam cijelo područje prekrila lagano razrijeđenim PVA ljepilom (tek toliko da se lako razmazuje). Potom sam sporadično posipao najveće zrno usred puta. Oko najvećih komada sam tada posipala malo manje šljunke. Na kraju sam završio s najsitnijim pijeskom za činčile.
  
  	Staze, puteljke te područja na kojima bi se građevine / drugi tereni postavljali tijekom igara posipani su isključivo pijeskom za činčile.
  
  	  
  
  	Druge teksture
  
  	Ostatak tekstura je rađen pomoću dvije različite veličine zrna. Negdje na sredini između malog šljunka i pijeska za činčile koji se koristi na glavnoj cesti. Još jednom sam razmazao smjesu vode i PVA ljepila. Međutim, ovaj put prije posipavanja pijeska stavio sam nekoliko komada škriljevca. Pažljivo sam birao mjesta na koja sam ih postavio kako ne bi bili na putu budućeg terena. To je dodalo još detalja cijeloj ploči i pomoglo razbiti velike ravne površine čak i ako terena nema. Kad sam bio zadovoljan smještajem i količinom komada škriljevca, posipao sam veće od dva zrna, a zatim i sitniji pijesak.
  
  	  
  
  	U sljedećem ću se članku pozabaviti ostatkom pijeska i šljunka koji se nije zalijepio za bazu. Tada ću obojiti ploču i dodati razne vegetacije. Voda će se također dodati u korito rijeke, a dodat ću i razne zimske dodatke, poput snijega, leda i siga.
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  Marko Paunović, 27.09.2020.
• Anin Top Tip

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  Oh my! Ana's cut herself and is bleading heavily! Whatever will she do? If she tries to go to the bathroom, she'll get blood all over her mother's carpets!
  
  	  
  
  Fortunately, Ana is experienced and has her superglue handy! 
  
  
  	  
  
  She knows that CA based glue, which is superglue, can close the wounds and stop the bleeding. It is used in medicine for emergency work! 
  
  
  	  
  
  Just apply it over the wound and a couple of seconds later the wound is closed and is no longer bleeding so her mother won't be cross with her as the carpets will remain bloodless. 
  
  
  	  
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  	Moj Bože! Ana se porezala i jako krvari! Što li će učiniti? Ako ide do kupaonice, uprskat će mamin tepih!
  
  	  
  
  	Srećom, Ana je iskusna i ima super ljepilo pri ruci!
  
  	  
  
  	Iz iskustva zna da ljepila poput superljepila koja su na bazi cijano akrilata mogu zatvoriti rane i porezotine te da se za to koriste i u hitnoj medicini.
  
  	  
  
  	Samo kapnuti kap ili dvije preko rane i majka se neće ljutiti jer Ana neće zakapati tepihe krvlju!
  
  	  
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  Ana Polanšćak, 20.09.2020.
• Modularna igraća tabla

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  	In the past issues I've been dealing with various forms of terrain for my Malifaux games. I've started with several bigger, feature terrain, like Western Church with a graveyard, Undertakers or Water tower with a fog machine. I've then continued with a train set accompanied by several modules worth of railroad tracks. Finally I ended with three modules of a dried river and a set of smaller gaming pieces (like forests, rough terrain, fences etc). In this issue, I'll be tackling how to build your own modular board, easily and fairly cheaply.
  
  	Obviously like with every big project, When making such a board you need to make the blueprints and carefully think everything through. What size will the board be, how many modules, how to connenct the modules, features stretching through a couple of modules - how to make the transitions... Fortunately for me, the basic idea of the board was already in my mind because a lot would be decided and defined by the terrain I've already built. Colours to be used I need not think about as they must be the same as in all the other terrain. Having such a great number of terrain pieces, means that I won't need a lot of features built into my modules. This makes the actual build easier, however deciding what details and features to use and more importantly where to place them, complicated matters. Over the course of the last couple of years I've made quite a number of large terrain pieces that I would like to use in my games. Having details, like large boulders, in wrong places on the board would prevent me from firmly placing larger pieces of terrain on my tabletop. That is something I need to avoid so I will need to take extra care not to get carried away. Let the board look a bit „boring, flat and featureless“.
  
  	Planning
  
  	Here is the list of needs and wants I've compiled after a couple of nights of planning:
  
  	1. easy storage (modules - no big wooden board that's hard to put away) N
  
  	1.1. size of the entire board: 90 x 90cm (or as close as possible) N
  
  	1.2. board needs to consist of four modules 45 x 45 cm (or as close as possible) N
  
  	2. use magnets for fixing the modules N
  
  	2.1. connection of the modules - use magnets (diametre 10mm) W/N
  
  	2.2. connection of the modules – use plastic pins (diametre 8mm) W/N
  
  	2.3. place the magnets/pins in the middle of each board W
  
  	3. details W
  
  	3.1. dirt paths – only on two or three modules W
  
  	3.2. one module without features W
  
  	3.3. dirt road – only on one module, as short as possible N
  
  	3.4. all of the modules must have at least ¼ of each module without any features N
  
  	4. details mustn't continue from one module to the next N
  
  	5. features and details as flat as possible (so I can place my terrain on the table easily) N
  
  	6. materials to be used – as light as possible N
  
  	7. frame – sturdy that won't bend or break easily N
  
  	When I compiled the list, already some things were begining to come to light. The need for light materials to be used made the choice easy – only HD Styrofoam could meet the demand on such a large surface or really thin MDF (maximum 5mm thickness). In the end, I went for three modules of HD Styrofoam (as it is less expensive) and one module of MDF (just for the purposes of this article so I can explain how to make it with this material as well). However, the need for sturdy frame and the connection through magnets meant that each module had to have a wooden frame. This in turn meant that the board would be at least 2,5 – 4 cm high. So the volume the board would have when not assembled would be 45 x 45 x 16cm (maximum height). This means that the whole board wouldn't take up too much space which is exactly what I was going for. After a little deliberation, I've decided to go with the magnets as my choice of connection, instead of pins. I'll do the list of pros and cons a little later on in the article. However, I decided to make a mock-up of the pin connection, as well, for the purposes of this article. Next up, was to make a sketch of the entire layout. I made sure I dotted down everything and proceeded to make a list of materials and tools needed.
  
  	  
  
  	- glues - PVA 1kg, 1x10g Superglue
  
  	- paints and spreys
  
  	- 6 Pebeo Deco Paints (Black, White, Grey, Brown, Ochre and Ash), one black matt acrylic sprey and one clear matt acrylic sprey
  
  	- large brushes No 90, No 40
  
  	- airbrush
  
  	- brush size 16
  
  	- high density sytyrofoam
  
  	- 2 boards (1200 x 600 x 20 mm)
  
  	- MDF 1 board (50 x 50cm) – just for the purposes of this article!
  
  	- 8mm diametre plastic tube – just for the purposes of this article!
  
  	- wooden slats
  
  	- 8 pieces (30 x 5 x 1000 mm)
  
  	- balsa wood 5mm thick (10 x 1000 mm)
  
  	- magnets - 32 pieces (diametre 10 mm, thickness 1mm)
  
  	- DAS air drying clay (0,5kg)
  
  	- plaster (half a cup)
  
  	- mould for casting cobbles
  
  	- sand and gravel (4 sizes)
  
  	- static grass and scatter (three to four sorts)
  
  	- scalpel blade
  
  	- jig saw
  
  	- disc sander
  
  	- modeller's saw
  
  	- mill bit (10 mm diametre)
  
  	- sanding paper
  
  	- masking tape
  
  	  
  
  	When you make such a list, you can also add where you can buy those items and it'll make your shopping easier and faster. When all summed up, I reckon, my board wouldn't cost more than 30-35USD which is really great as this is even cheaper than normal playing mats and that came as a surprise really.
  
  	Actual build
  
  	After you purchased everything you need, it's time to start the build. First thing I did when I started was making the wooden frame out of the 8 linden slats 30 x 5 x 1000 mm planks. I cut them 2mm longer than neccessary. Fortunately, the slats being 1000 mm long I could afford it so each slat could be used to make two sides of the frame. They all had leftovers and when finally done, I'd have modules that were exactly 45 x 45 cm. When cutting (with a saw) cut one from one side of the plank and the other from the other side. It will ensure you that you have at least one vertically cut side (factory made). After you make this, you'll have to sand of the extra 2mm of length. In order to have a perfect fit, I used my Proxxon disc sander that has a movable trey which I set up at 45 degrees angle. After both sides of each plank were sanded I checked if I had perfect fits all around.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	After the wooden frame parts were cut, I proceeded with magnet installment. First of all, I marked one side of all the magnets with green colour and the other with red (note: it doesn't matter which colour you use, obviously, as long as they are sufficiantly different). When I had all my 32 magnets marked on both sides, it was time to mark the wooden frame slats exactly where I would place them. I decided to place them exactly 10 cm from left/right side and exactly 1,5 cm from the top side. Using a marker I jotted down the exact centre so I could aim the vertical drill more easily. I placed the 10 mm diametre mill bit into it and drilled 2 mm deep into the wooden slats. I glued the magnets using a mixture of PVA glue (inside the hole) and superglue (on the magnets).
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	In the design phase I mentioned another way to connect the modules. The preparations for the pin connection are mostly the same. Decide where to place the pins (how far from each side of the module and on which height). Using a drill of appropriate size (8mm in this case), I made the holes straight through the wooden slat. I then proceeded to cut the plastic rod into pins of desired length and placed one pin per side. Like with magnets, I carefully marked each side of the module with separate colour (red and green). One colour would have the pin (be the male jack) and the other would have the hole (be the female jack). I would suggest that your pins protrude at least 2,5cm. If you've done everything right, the pins should align precisely with the holes and you should get a perfect fit. Using the pins will provide a more permanent and rigid connection than the magnet version. However, storing the modules would require more space. Of course, you could always opt not to fix the pins to the modules and store them in a separate bag.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	As mentioned above, on three of the modules, I would be using high density styrofoam to make the body of the board so I now had to cut it into four pieces that would go into the four frames of the modules. Since the frames' outside dimensions were exactly 45 x 45 cm and the wooden frame thickness was 5 mm (on each side!), that meant that my styrofoam boards needed to be exactly 44 x 44 cm so using some straight wooden planks (balsa wood) I first drew the outline and then using my scalpel blade I cut the four pieces.
  
  	The fourth module would be done out of thin MDF (about 4mm). Using the same method as before, I drew the outline of the module and using my jigsaw I cut it to desired size (44 x 44 cm). Earlier in the article, I mentioned I would list some pros and cons of each method. Obviously, the styrofoam is easier to cut, lighter and due to it's soft properties and relatively high depth provides the builder the opportunity to add some features inside the module. However, the styrofoam usually comes with different (usually diamond shaped) features on it's surfaces. This is because it is used as insulation on houses so the roughness of the surface makes it adhere better to the wall surfaces. I had to remove the texture and I did it using a makeshift tool made from sanding paper, masking tape and a paint bottle. The MDF is obviously a little heavier, more difficult to cut but on the other hand provides better rigidity of the entire module. Also, being thinner than styrofoam, it provides more room on the inside of the module, so your modules can have more texutre and protruding details and you'll still be able to stack the modules on top of each other when placed in storage.
  
  	In order to glue the wooden frames at right angle more easily, I made some brackets (of course you can buy them, but it's cheaper this way). From the 5mm thick balsa wood I cut 8 pieces about 5 x 5 cm large. Afterwards using a knife, I cut them diagonally and presto, I had 16 brackets (for each corner of the 4 modules). I glued them using superglue.
  
  	I now had all the pieces I needed to assemble the four modules. I used superglue to instantly bond the wooden frames to eachother and to the brackets. When I acchieved the initial strength of the bond, I added PVA glue to all the joints. When the bonds were dry, I placed my styrofoam boards into each frame. After a bit of tayloring with a scalpel blade I had them all fit snuggly inside the frames. I glued the styrofoam boards to the frames using PVA glue (superglue melts styrofoam) and left it to dry overnight. Before pouring the glue, I added masking tape to all the joints on the top surface to prevent the glue from leaking.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Adding texture
  
  	I assembled all the modules to check how they fit. On the module with the MDF base, the base had sunk into the wooden frame and didn't align perfectly. To fix it, I mixed up some plaster with water making sure the mixture was almost fluid-like. When I was satisfied with the consistency, I poured in the plaster and using a long straight slat I leveled the plaster with the wooden frame. Once it was dry, I checked the alignment again and since everything worked out great it was now time to add some scenic features that I decided I'd install. Using my sketch, I carefully copied the design to the board clearly marking the dirt roads, dirt paths and all the clear featureless areas. When I had the design drawn on the board, using some sanding paper taped to a bottle (for a colour I'd be using later) I sanded into the board so the roads would be flat with the ground. I managed to make the profile of the road by just sanding the MDF. If I hadn't succeeded I would opt to use DAS air drying clay. I would shaped some features to the roads and when I satisfied with how they looked, I would smear some PVA glue over the entire surface of the.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	For a long time I debated whether to add some cobbled stone road or area to my board for the purposes of this article. However, in the end I decided against it as it would clash too much with the rest of the scenery. Luckily, on one of my previous projects I did just that so I have a couple of pics to show how it's done. First, using the method described earlier I made a denture in the styrofoam to fit my cobbled stones which I made from a silicone mould I found in a Home depo store (note: it was actually a pot coaster that I used in Wyrd Chronicles no 22). I mixed some plaster with water and I poured it into my mould. Half an hour later I had my cobbles. I placed the cobbles into the appropriate hole and when done, I sprinkled generously some gravel and sand.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	With all the features modelled on the board, I proceeded with adding texture. First I added the big pieces of slate. Then I added the dirt road and/or paths. After I smeared a slightly watered down PVA (just enough so it would spread easily) on all the surfaces, I sprinkled some larger bits of gravel. I added more texture progressively going from larger granulate to smaller. The final granulate size was smallest chinchilla sand. I repeated the process on all the other surfaces, ending in a granulate a tad bigger than chinchilla sand so I could diferentiate between the normal ground and the dirt road.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Painting
  
  	Leaving to dry overnight, I continued the process in the morning with an application of a black undercoat. I used a black matt acrylic sprey. After it was dry, I airbrushed the colouration (using a GW sprey gun because it gives a quite large cover area in a single burst and it's dirt cheap to get). Normal ground was painted with brown while the road was done in several layers ending in a mixture of brown and ochre. The stone bits and areas were airbrushed grey. Final highlights were done with ash and antique white using size 40, 60 and 90 brushes. When the paints were dry, I spreyed everything with a clear matt acrylic sprey.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Vegetation
  
  	After the painting, as always, I added the vegetation. It was basicly a mixture of one type of scatter and three kinds of static grass – a brownish 3mm long one, a yellowish-brown 5mm long one and some yellowish 7mm tufts. The scatter was made from various stuff like twigs, coloured wooden dust and debree and some artificial thread. I applied them all with PVA glue and left it to dry. When it was all dry, I spreyed everything with clear matt acrylic sprey.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	When all was done, I arranged (some of) my scenery on the board and was pretty satisfied with the results.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  "
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  	U prošlim člancima sam se bavio raznim oblicima terena za moje igre Malifauxa. Započeo sam s nekoliko većih, značajnih terena, poput crkve s grobljem, ulaza u rudnik te pogrebnika. Napokon sam završio s tri modula osušene rijeke i nizom manjih komada za igre (poput šuma, neravnog terena, ograde itd.). U ovom broju pozabavit ću se načinom stvaranja vlastite modularne ploče, jednostavno i prilično jeftino.
  
  	Očito kao i kod svakog velikog projekta, prilikom izrade ovakve ploče potrebno je napraviti nacrte i pažljivo o svemu razmisliti. Koja će veličina ploče biti, koliko modula, kako povezati module, karakteristike koje se protežu kroz nekoliko modula - kako napraviti prijelaze ... Srećom po mene, osnovna ideja ploče već je bila u mom umu, jer puno je bilo definirano terenom koji sam već sagradio. O bojama koje ću koristiti ne trebam razmišljati jer moraju biti iste kao i na svim ostalim terenima. Imajući tako velik broj terena, znači da mi neće trebati puno značajki ugrađenih u moje module na samoj tabli. To olakšava gradnju, no koje ćete detalje i značajke staviti i što je još važnije gdje ćete ih postaviti, komplicira stvari. Tijekom zadnjih nekoliko godina napravio sam prilično velik broj terena, koje bih želio koristiti u svojim igrama. Imati detalje, poput velikih gromada, na pogrešnim mjestima na ploči, spriječilo bi me da čvrsto postavim veće terena na tablu. To je nešto što moram izbjegavati pa ću se morati dodatno paziti da se ne zanesem. Neka ploča izgleda pomalo „dosadno, ravno i besprijekorno“.
  
  	Planiranje
  
  	Slijedi popis zahtjeva i želja koje sam sastavio nakon nekoliko noći planiranja:
  
  	1. jednostavno skladištenje (moduli - nema velike drvene ploče koju je teško odložiti) Z
  
  	1.1. veličina cijele ploče: 90 x 90cm (ili što je moguće bliže) Z
  
  	1.2. ploča se mora sastojati od četiri modula veličine 45 x 45 cm (ili što je moguće bliže) Z
  
  	2. za pričvršćivanje modula koristiti magnete Z
  
  	2.1. spajanje modula – koristiti magnete (promjer 10 mm) Ž / Z
  
  	2.2. spajanje modula - koristito plastične igle (promjera 8 mm) Ž / Z
  
  	2.3. stavito magnete / igle u sredinu svake ploče Ž
  
  	3. detalji Ž
  
  	3.1. prljavštine - samo na dva ili tri modula Ž
  
  	3.2. jedan modul bez značajki Ž
  
  	3.3. zemljana cesta - samo na jednom modulu, što je moguće kraće Z
  
  	3.4. svi moduli moraju imati najmanje ¼ svakog modula bez ikakvih značajki Z
  
  	4. pojedinosti se ne smiju nastaviti s jednog modula na sljedeći Z
  
  	5. značajke i detalji što ravniji (tako da seteren mogu lako postaviti na stol) Z
  
  	6. upotrijebiti materijale - što je moguće laganije Z
  
  	7. okvir - čvrst koji se neće lako saviti ili slomiti Z
  
  	Kad sam sastavio popis, neke stvari su već počele izlaziti na vidjelo. Potreba da se koriste lagani materijali olakšala je izbor - samo stirodur mogao je zadovoljiti potražnju na tako velikoj površini ili stvarno tanki MDF (maksimalne debljine 5 mm). Na kraju sam se napravio tri modula od stirodura (jer je jeftiniji) i jedan modul od MDF-a (samo za potrebe ovog članka da mogu objasniti kako ga napraviti i s ovim materijalom). Međutim, potreba za čvrstim okvirom i povezanost pomoću magneta značila je da svaki modul mora imati drveni okvir. To je zauzvrat značilo da će ploča biti visoka najmanje 2,5 - 4 cm. Tako da bi volumen koju bi ploča imala kad nije sastavljena bila 45 x 45 x 16cm (maksimalna visina). To znači da cijela tabla ne bi zauzimala previše prostora, a to je upravo ono što sam i htio. Nakon malo razmišljanja, odlučio sam se za magneta kao mojim izborom veze, umjesto zatika. Popis prednosti i nedostataka ću učiniti malo kasnije u članku. Ipak sam za potrebe ovog članka odlučio napraviti i varijantu veze sa zaticima. Sljedeće je bilo napraviti skicu cijelog izgleda. Pobrinuo sam se da sve uvrstim i nastavio sam sa spiskom potrebnih materijala i alata.
  
  	  
  
  	- ljepila - PVA 1kg, 1x10g Superglue
  
  	- boje i sprejevi
  
  	- 6 Pebeo Deco boja (crna, bijela, siva, smeđa, oker i pepela), jedna crna mat akrilna spreja i jedna bistra mat akrilna spreja
  
  	- veliki kistovi (pemzle) br. 90, br. 40
  
  	- zračni kist
  
  	- veličina kista 16
  
  	- stirodur - 2 ploče (1200 x 600 x 20 mm)
  
  	- MDF 1 ploča (50 x 50cm) - samo za potrebe ovog članka!
  
  	- Plastična cijev od 8 mm promjera - samo za potrebe ovog članka!
  
  	- drvene letvice - 8 komada (30 x 5 x 1000 mm)
  
  	- drvo balze debljine 5mm (10 x 1000 mm)
  
  	- magneti - 32 komada (promjer 10 mm, debljina 1 mm)
  
  	- DAS glinamol (0,5 kg)
  
  	- gips (pola šalice)
  
  	- kalup za lijevanje kamenih pločica
  
  	- pijesak i šljunak (4 veličine)
  
  	- statička trava i busenovi (tri do četiri vrste)
  
  	- skalpel
  
  	- pila
  
  	- brusilica
  
  	- pila za modele
  
  	- glodalica (promjer 10 mm)
  
  	- brusni papir
  
  	- krep traka
  
  	  
  
  	Kad napravite takav popis, možete dodati i mjesto gdje možete kupiti te materijale što će učiniti vašu kupovinu lakšom i bržom. Kad se sve zbroji, smatram da moja ploča ne bi koštala više od 200-250kn, što je stvarno sjajno jer je ovo čak jeftinije od uobičajenih igraćih prostirki i to je zaista bilo iznenađenje.
  
  	Izrada table
  
  	Nakon što ste kupili sve što vam treba, vrijeme je da započnete gradnju. Prvo što sam učinio kad sam započeo bio je izrada drvenog okvira od 8 letvica od lipe 30 x 5 x 1000 mm. Režem ih 2 mm duže nego što je potrebno. Srećom, letvice su dugačke 1000 mm, pa sam si to mogao priuštiti tako da se svaka letvica može koristiti za izradu dvije strane okvira. Svi su imali ostatke i kad bih konačno bio gotov, imao bih module točno 45 x 45 cm. Kod rezanja (pomoću pile) izrežite jednu stranu okvira s jedne strane daske, a drugu s druge strane. Osigurat će vam da imate barem jednu vertikalno izrezanu stranu (tvornički izrađenu). Nakon što to napravite, morat ćete nanijeti izbrusiti dodatnih 2 mm. Da bih se savršeno uklopio, koristio sam električnu stolnu brusilicu Proxxon koji ima pomični nosač koji sam postavio pod kutom od 45 stupnjeva. Nakon što su brušene obje strane svake daske, provjerio sam da li se uklapaju savršeno.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon što su dijelovi drvenog okvira bili izrezani, nastavio sam s ugradnjom magneta. Najprije sam jednu stranu svih magneta označio zelenom bojom, a drugu crvenom (napomena: nije važno koju boju koristite, očito, sve dok se one međusobno razlikuju). Kad sam svoja 32 magneta označio na obje strane, došlo je vrijeme da drvene letvice okvira označim točno tamo gdje ću ih postaviti. Odlučio sam ih postaviti točno 10 cm od lijeve / desne strane i točno 1,5 cm od gornje strane. Pomoću markera odredio sam točnu sredinu kako bih lakše usmjerio stapnu bušilicu. Stavio sam u njega glodalo promjera 10 mm i izbušio 2 mm duboko u drvene letvice. Magnete sam zalijepio mješavinom PVA ljepila (unutar rupe) i super ljepila (na magnetima).
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	U fazi dizajna spomenuo sam još jedan način povezivanja modula. Pripreme za vezu zaticima uglavnom su iste. Odlučite gdje postaviti zatike (koliko su udaljeni od svake strane modula i na kojoj visini). Pomoću bušilice odgovarajuće veličine rupe (u ovom slučaju promjera 8 mm) sam napravio kroz drvenu letvicu. Zatim sam izrezao plastičnu šipku u zatike željene duljine i stavio jedan zatik po strani. Kao i s magnetima, pažljivo sam označio svaku stranu modula zasebnom bojom (crvenom i zelenom). Jedna boja imala bi zatik (muški priključak), a druga bi imala rupu (ženski priključak). Predlažem da vam se zatici vire najmanje 2,5 cm. Ako ste sve napravili kako treba, zatici bi se trebali točno uskladiti s rupama i trebali biste se savršeno uklopiti. Korištenje zatika osigurat će trajniju i krutiju vezu od magnetna verzije. Međutim, spremanje modula zahtijeva više prostora. Naravno, uvijek možete odlučiti da ne pričvrstite zatike na module i pohranite ih u zasebnu vrećicu.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Kao što je gore spomenuto, za izradu tijela ploče koristio bih se stirodur, pa sam ga sada morao izrezati na četiri komada koji će ući u četiri okvira modula. Budući da su vanjske dimenzije okvira točno 45 x 45 cm, a debljina drvenog okvira bila je 5 mm (sa svake strane!), To je značilo da moje ploče od stiropora moraju biti točno 44 x 44 cm. Koristio sam ravne daske (balsa drvo ) da prvo nacrtam obris, a zatim pomoću skalpela izrežem četiri komada.
  
  	Četvrti modul bio je napravljen od tankog MDF-a (oko 4 mm). Koristeći istu metodu kao i prije, nacrtao sam obris modula i pomoću ubodne pile izrezao sam ga na željenu veličinu (44 x 44 cm). Ranije sam u članku spomenuo da ću navesti neke prednosti i nedostatke svake metode. Očito je da se stirodur može lakše rezati, lakši je i zbog svojih mekanih svojstava i relativno velike dubine pruža graditelju priliku da doda neke značajke unutar modula. Međutim, stirodur obično dolazi sa teksturom (obično u obliku dijamanta). To je zato što se koristi kao izolacija kuća, a hrapavost površine omogućuje bolje prijanjanje na zidne površine. Morao sam ukloniti teksturu i to sam napravila improviziranim alatom napravljenim od brusnog papira, krep trake i boce s bojom. MDF je očito malo teži, teži za rezanje, ali s druge strane pruža bolju krutost cijelog modula. Također, tanji je od stirodura, pruža više prostora na unutarnjoj strani modula, tako da vaši moduli mogu imati više tekstura i stršećih detalja, a dalje ćete moći slagati module jedan na drugi kad ih ne koristite.
  
  	Da bih drvene okvire ljepio pod pravim kutom, napravio sam nekoliko kutnika (naravno da ih možete kupiti, ali ovako je jeftinije). Od balze debljine 5 mm izrezao sam 8 komada veličine oko 5 x 5 cm. Nakon toga nožem sam ih rezao dijagonalno i voila, imao sam 16 kutnikaa (za svaki ugao 4 modula). Zalijepio sam ih pomoću super ljepila.
  
  	Sad sam imao sve komade potrebne za sastavljanje četiri modula. Super ljepilo sam upotrijebio da drvene okvire trenutno lijepim jedan za drugi, ali i za kutnike. Kad sam postigao početnu čvrstoću veze, dodao sam PVA ljepilo na sve spojeve. Kad su se veze osušile, stavio sam stirodurne ploče u svaki okvir. Nakon kraćeg krojenja oštricom skalpela, sve sam ih čvrsto ugradio u okvire. Zalijepio sam ploče od stirodura na okvire pomoću PVA ljepila (superglue topi stirodur) i ostavio da se osuši preko noći. Prije nego što sam ulio ljepilo, na sve spojeve na gornjoj površini dodao sam krep traku kako ljepilo ne bi procurilo.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Tekstura
  
  	Skupio sam sve module da provjerim kako se uklapaju. Na modulu sa MDF pločom, baza je utonula u drveni okvir i nije se savršeno poravnala. Da bih to popravio, pomiješao sam malo gipsa s vodom pazeći da smjesa postane gotovo fluidna. Kad sam bio zadovoljan konzistencijom, ulio sam gips i pomoću dugačke ravne letvice izravnao površinu. Nakon što se osušio, ponovno sam provjerio poravnanje i budući da je sve ispalo sjajno, došlo je vrijeme da dodam neke živopisne značajke koje sam odlučio ugraditi. Pomoću svoje skice pažljivo sam kopirao dizajn na ploču jasno označavajući zemljane ceste, nakupine kamenja i sva čista područja bez karakteristika. Kad sam nacrtao dizajn na ploče, pomoću brusnog papira nalijepljenog na bocu (za boju koju ću koristiti kasnije) izdubio sam ploču kako bi ceste bile ravne s tlom. Uspio sam napraviti profil puta jednostavnim brušenjem MDF-a. Da nisam uspio, odlučio bih se poslužiti DAS glinamolom. Oblikovao bih neke značajke na cestama i kad bih se zadovoljio izgledom, razmazao bih malo PVA ljepila po cijeloj površini.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Dugo sam razmišljao hoću li u svoj članak dodati popločenu kamenu cestu. Međutim, na kraju sam se odlučio protiv toga, jer se ne bi uklopio s ostatkom krajolika. Srećom, na jednom od svojih prijašnjih projekata učinio sam upravo to tako da imam par slika da pokažem kako se to radi. Prvo sam pomoću ranije opisane metode napravio udubinu u stiroduru da stavim svoje odljevke kamenih ploča koje sam napravio od silikonskog kalupa koju sam pronašao u trgovini Home depo (napomena: zapravo se radilo o podmetaču za lonce). Pomiješao sam malo gipsa s vodom i izlio ga u kalup. Pola sata kasnije imao sam svoje ploče. Premazao sam udubinu PVA ljepilom, postavio kamene ploče te kad sam završio, velikodušno sam posipao šljunak i pijesak.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Sa završenim svim značajkama modeliranim na ploči, nastavio sam s dodavanjem teksture. Prvo sam dodao velike komade škriljevca. Tada sam dodao zemljani put i / ili staze. Nakon što sam na sve površine cesta i puteva namazao lagano razvodnjeno PVA ljepilo (tek toliko da se lako razmazuje), posipao sam sve krupnijim šljunkom. Dodao sam više teksture tako da sam nasipavao razne šljunke i pijeske od većeg granulata do manjeg. Konačna veličina granulata bio je najsitniji pijesak za činčile. Ponovio sam postupak na svim ostalim površinama, završavajući u granulatu većim od pijeska za činčile kako bi se mogla vizualno razlikovati normalna tekstura table od teksture ceste/puta.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Bojanje
  
  	Ostavši da se osuši preko noći nastavio sam postupak ujutro nanošenjem crne osnovne boje. Koristio sam crni mat akrilni sprej. Nakon što se osušio, raspršio sam boju (koristeći GW sprej pištolj, jer daje prilično veliko pokrivno područje u jednom naletu i jako je jeftin). Normalno tlo bilo je obojeno smeđom bojom dok je cesta obavljena u nekoliko slojeva koji su završavali mješavinom smeđeg i oker. Komadići kamena i područja bili su bojani zračnim kistom u sivo. Konačni highlight je izveden bojom Ash i Antique White koristeći pemzle veličine 40, 60 i 90. Kad su se boje osušile, sve sam posprejao prozirnim mat akrilnim sprejom.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Vegetacija
  
  	Nakon bojanja, kao i uvijek, dodao sam vegetaciju. Bila je to uglavnom mješavina jedne vrste scattera i tri vrste statičke trave - smeđe 3 mm duge, žućkasto-smeđe boje duljine 5 mm i nekih žućkastih vlakana duljine 7 mm. Posip je rađen od raznih stvari poput grančica, obojene drvene prašine i debla i neke umjetne niti. Sve sam ih nanio PVA ljepilom i ostavio da se osuše. Kad je sve bilo suho, sve sam posprejao prozirnim mat akrilnim sprejom.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Kad je sve bilo gotovo, posložio sam (dio) svojih terena na ploču i bio sam prilično zadovoljan rezultatima.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
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  Marko Paunović, 11.09.2020.
• Sitni tereni za Divlji Zapad

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      ["title_eng"]=>
      string(44) "SCATTER TERRAIN FOR A WILD WEST GAMING BOARD"
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      string(28) "Sitni tereni za Divlji Zapad"
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      string(38887) "
  
  	Having built a decent number of bigger, „feature“ gaming terrain for my Wild West gaming board for Malifaux, I've decided I now need a lot of smaller terrain that will add some fun to the games. Bigger terrain will create the atmosphere, while the smaller ones will provide many gaming options, such as hard and soft cover, rough terrain, woods and provide additional challenges and opportunities to any player to further enhance the gaming experience.
  
  	Idea and planning
  
  	The basic outline of each of these terrain is pretty straightforward and simple. After a couple of days planning, I've decided what terrain I'll need to have a complete and versatile board that will provide gamers with plenty of atmosphere and challenge during their games. In this article, I'll cover the following subjects: forests, outhouse, well, town entrance, fences, rough terrain, a wooden crate and a metal coal container.
  
  	I'll build four forests roughly 15 x 15 cm in size. To tie them in with the rest of the scenery I've already built, they'll be pine forests. I'll also build four pieces of rough terrain varying in size from really small ones 5 x 5 cm to a slightly larger one 10 x 15 cm. The idea behind these is that, although they hinder movement, they do not allow any cover. A nuisance on the battlefield, really.
  
  	I'll also be making four 1,5 x 10 cm fences and a 20 x 5 cm western town entrance. Fences will provide soft cover in my Malifaux games as well as impede movement a bit.
  
  	Next, I'll be building several smaller pieces of terrain: an outhouse (because what is a western town without at least one outhouse) and a wooden well. These smaller pieces would provide hard cover and provide hinderance in movement and in line of sight. To finish this issue's build, I'll be adding some containers. One will be a metal container for coal and the other will be simple wooden crate. Both will be slightly bigger than one would expect, but I've decided to go down that road because I want these to provide enough space for the models to be placed on top of them should the player wish to.
  
  	  
  
  	Materials and tools
  
  	Once I've had most of the design ready, I could finally make a list of tools and materials needed. For this project I will need the following materials:
  
  	- one 5x5 mm linden slat (it comes in 1 m length)
  
  	- roughly one plank of 2 mm balsa wood (they come in 10 x 100 cm planks)
  
  	- roughly half a plank of 5 mm balsa wood
  
  	- a small piece of 5cm thick HD styrofoam
  
  	- about 50x30 cm piece of 4mm thick MDF board
  
  	- superglue
  
  	- PVA glue
  
  	- gravel (at least three sizes)
  
  	- static grass / tufts
  
  	- sanding paper (1 sheet)
  
  	- plasticard (0,75 mm thick, one sheet 20x30cm)
  
  	- masking tape
  
  	- office pins
  
  	- slate
  
  	- roots and twigs
  
  	- pine/fir trees
  
  	- Siligum (one package)
  
  	- plaster
  
  	The tools needed are:
  
  	- scalpel blade
  
  	- marker pen
  
  	- modelling saw
  
  	- pin vice (or an electric mini drill)
  
  	- brushes – various sizes – for painting/washing and for drybrushing
  
  	- pliers and pincers
  
  	- icepick
  
  	- plastic glue, PVA glue and superglue
  
  	- black primer spray
  
  	- electric jigsaw*
  
  	- electric disc sander*
  
  	* I will be using my Proxxon disc sander and jigsaw on the MDF to make the bases. However, the bases can be cut with hand held tools such as modeller's saw and be sanded down with sanding paper. It'll only require a bit more time and strength.
  
  	Building the bases
  
  	After drawing the rough outlines of my bases on the MDF board with a marker pen, I proceeded to cut it with my jigsaw. When the rough shapes, squares, were done, I drew the exact shapes of my terrain pieces on the MDF bases and again using the jigsaw I cut them to size. Once the cutting was done, I chamfered the base edges with my disc sander. This will ensure a nice transition between the table and the base of the terrain.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	After the basic shapings of my terrain were done, I now had to distribute various scenic elements on the bases. This meant getting out my stash of fir/pine trees and pieces of slate I use for my terrain. Slate is an incredible type of stone which allows you to shape it without any effort (or at least with only minimum effort). It's built from many parallel layers that can be peeled off and when the stone's thickness is reduced enough it can even be broken with hands. This is especially useful in smaller scenic pieces such as bases for the miniatures themselves. If you are careful enough, you can even drill through it so you can even pin your models to the stones and subsequently to their bases as well. Other great thing is that the mountain right next to the city I live in is made of slate so it's really handy to get by. One other thing I discovered while hiking is that the forest usually has some upturned trees. These, obviously, have their roots out and these in turn look great as dried trees on your bases and even terrain which I'll demonstrate later on in this article. But for now, we'll turn to the slate. Before you use the slate pieces on your bases/terrain, I suggest washing them down with a hose (something I suggest you do with the roots as well) and dry them in the sun. First, you'll remove the dust of the stones which will prevent the stone (or root) from fully adhering to the surface of the base, but also the paint won't peel or fall off the stones. Second, and more important, the stones and roots coming from a forest, might contain some germs and other filth, even cause mouse fever so it's really important to wash them thouroughly. After washing, leave to dry slowly on the sun. Remember to always wash your hands thouroughly after handling the unwashed slate and roots! Also, if you have handy, use protective gloves when possible. With the slate now dry, I could place them and the fir/pine trees on my bases and dry-fit them to find a suitable size and pattern. Once I was satisfied with the placement, using PVA glue, I glued the pieces of slate to the bases in appropriate places. The trees were grouped according to the bases they would eventually be placed on and marked carefully (both the trees and the bases) so there would be no confusion later on. The trees I used are NOCH trees that come in a bag of 50 and cost about 40 USD (NOCH is a German model train accessories manufacturer). I removed the trunks of the trees and glued them to the bases. This will enable easier painting of the terrain and once the painting is done, I'll simply glue the rest of the trees back in their respective trunks.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Town Entrance
  
  	Once the glue on the tree trunks and small pieces of slate was dry, I could now turn myself to building the town entrance. At first I wanted to make it from man-carved wooden beams but looking at my roots and twigs stash, I found three twigs that were perfect for the Old West look I was after. Using my pin-vice, I drilled two holes in appropriate places on the base. I used a drill bit that was roughly the size of the office pin I was about to use as a pin. However, threading the pin through the bottom of the base would mean that the pin head would stick from the bottom and make the entire terrain wobbly. To prevent that from happening, I used a larger drill bit and just made a small insertion just big enough to house the entire pin head. Using superglue I glued the two Y-shaped twigs in place and connected them with a straight twig. Then I cut several 5 mm wide balsa pieces (about 7 cm long) and made the town sign.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Fences
  
  	Same as with the town entrance, I drilled two holes per fence base to enable the pinning of the fence posts. Using 5 x 5 mm linden slat I made 8 fence posts (2 per base) which I chamfered along each edge to get a worn look. I pinned and glued the fence posts using superglue. Then I cut eight strips of 2 mm thick balsa wood (same as used on the town sign) roughly 12 cm in length and had their edges chamfered with the scalpel blade. Again, using superglue I glued them in place, two per fence. Intentionally, I didn't glue them perfectly aligned to acchieve that worn look.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Outhouse
  
  	Next up was the outhouse. Using 2 mm thick balsa wood, I cut the four walls and a roof in desired sizes (written on the sketch during the design phase). I glued the wall pieces on the appropriate base with superglue. NOTE: All the wooden bits could be glued with PVA glue, but the PVA glue sets a lot longer so I opted for this quicker method. Once the structure was in place, I decided to add individual planks to the outer walls. This would make the worn effect even more highlighted. I cut individual planks at about 3 – 4 mm wide. When the walls were done, I spreyed the black primer inside – because the door would be slightly ajar and the inside would be visible if not painted. When the primer was dry, I glued the roof in place and made a small hole on the door.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Well
  
  	I've decided not to make the well out of individual planks like the outhouse, but rather to use engraved balsa wood to mimic the wooden walls of the well. The vertical beams were once again made from linden slats to provide the whole well some structural integrity. The roof was once again made from 2 mm thick balsa wood.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Crate
  
  	Just like the well, I used engraved balsa wood to make the sides of the crate. I glued the sides using superglue. The frame of the crate was done with balsa cut to size and I even added rivets using office pins. Since my crate was big enough to fit entire office pins, I didn't cut them. If you build smaller crates, then before sticking the pins, you should cut them to size first.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Making multiple crates
  
  	Once the crate was done, I decided to make a mould out of it. To make moulds I usually use Siligum. Siligum is a two component mix that once combined sets in 10 minutes and forms a rubbery supstance great for making molds. It comes in 100 g and 300 g packages. It is similar to green stuff in how it's gnawed to make the end product. Once the mould was done, I mixed some plaster of paris and poured it in my mould. About half an hour later, I had my first cast.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Coal Container
  
  	Coal container was made from 0,75 mm thick plasticard. Plasticard at this thickness is really easy to cut, but it does lack some structural strength. It bends quite a bit. For that reason, I cut some HD styrofoam to fit inside the plasticard frame and hold it in place. To glue the plasticard I used Revell plastic cement. When the frame was dry, I used the same thickness plasticard to add the detailing to the sides. The rivets were made from blobs of PVA glue. The inside of the container was covered with PVA glue and the largest pebbles were placed inside to represent coal once painted.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Adding texture
  
  	Next step on the bases was to add texture. I covered everything with diluted PVA glue and started adding the gravel. Remember, start with the biggest granulate and end with the smallest. I used three different sizes, from small pebbles to chinchilla sand. The larger pebbles and gravel I placed strategicly around the bases to form some clutter. The two smallest granulates were freely dispersed throughout the terrain making sure I get even coverage throughout and no area is left without texture. I also used chinchilla sand to mark the road (on the town entrance piece) and the paths (on the outhouse and through the forests) just to add some diversity. When the texture was dry, I undercoated everything in black matt primer.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Painting
  
  	When the undercoat was dry, it was time to paint all the terrain. I started painting the bases first. Wanting all my terrain to fit one theme (and consequently one tabletop) it was only natural I use the same colours and colour scheme as on the earlier pieces. Therefore once again, I used Pebeo Deco color range. I used Brown (29) for the basecoat and continued drybrushing with Ocre (51). Lighter shades were done with a 50:50 mixture of Ocre (51) and White (41). The final highlight was done with Antique White (69). The road and paths were first basecoated with Brown (29) then heavily drybrushed with Ocre (51) and a 50:50 mixture of Ocre (51) and White (41). The last two highlights were Antique White (69) and pure White (41). This way, I had a visual difference between the normal groundwork and the worn out road.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	The slate was painted by drybrushing a 50:50 mixture of Black (55) and Grey (54). Next layer was pure Grey (54) and the finishing highlight was pure White (41).
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	The buildings and structures have two different surfaces and consequently textures – roof and wooden walls. I proceeded to paint the wooden walls by drybrushing first using a 50:50 mixture of Black (55) and Grey (54). Next layer was pure Grey (54) and the finishing highlight was Ash Brown (70). I was not quite satisfied with the result, so I added another highlight of pure White (41). The roof was painted first with a mixture of Black (55) and Grey (54) and then a mixture of Grey (54) and Antique White (69) finishing with almost a pure coat of Antique White (69).
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	The wooden parts of the town entrance were covered using masking tape to prevent any paint from reaching it as the dried wood (from the roots) provided a good enough effect. Once the rest of the base was painted, I removed the masking tape and washed the balsa sign with a diluted mixture of black wash just to stain it a bit. When the wash was dry, I wrote Malifaux on the sign.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Metal coal containter was painted pure (old Citadel) Boltgun Metal. When the paint was dry, it was then covered generously with black wash (Nuln Oil, in this case). Once the wash was dry, I used Model Mates' Rust Effect on the metal bits and in the end I put Model Mates' Soot Black effect to mimic the coal residue on the metal parts. The coal inside was painted black with some dark grey highlights.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Vegetation
  
  	After the painting, it was time to add the vegetation to the bases. First up, I decided to re-plant my pine trees. Using superglue to fix the trees in place, I simply guided the wire on the bottom of the trees into the small hole of the plastic tree trunk. Before gluing, I made sure that the trees fit their trunks by doing a quick mock-up of the assembly.
  
  	  
  
  	With the trees in place, I could now add the static grass. I made a mixture using several green, brown, yellow and black shades of static grass and when I was satisfied with the end product, I glued it in random patches throughout the bases. One thing I made sure of is that I put static grass over any and all of the remaining holes where the wooden structures met their bases in order to hide the unintentional mistakes. Once the static grass was in place, I applied several shades of different tufts. Again, as in the former articles, I used tufts made by a Portuguese company called Gamer's Grass that is also available in USA.
  
  	  
  
  	For the forest and the rough terrain, I added some longer static grass bits as well as some pieces of wood (twigs, roots and whatnot from my forest hike). This will provide sufficient semblance of the rough terrain or forest floor without unnecessary hindrance of movement during gaming. This marked the end of the building process and I could now make my final shots of the finished terrain.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  "
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      string(39408) "
  
  	Nakon što sam sagradio pristojan broj većih, „tematskih“ igraćih terena za moju ploču Divljeg zapada za Malifaux, odlučio sam da sada treba puno manjih terenčića koji će dodati malo zabave igrama. Veći teren stvorit će atmosferu, dok će manji pružati brojne mogućnosti igranja, poput hard i soft covera, grubog terena, šume i pružiti dodatne izazove i mogućnosti bilo kojem igraču kako bi dodatno poboljšao igračko iskustvo.
  
  	Ideja i planiranje
  
  	Osnovni obris svakog od ovih terena prilično je jednostavan. Nakon nekoliko dana planiranja, odlučio sam koje ću terene trebati imati za cjelovitu i svestranu ploču koja će igračima pružiti obilje atmosfere i izazova tijekom igre. U ovom ću članku obraditi sljedeće teme: šume, vanjskog zahoda, bunara, ulaza u grad, ograde, neravnog (rough) terena, drvenog sanduka i metalnog spremnika ugljena.
  
  	Izgradit ću četiri šume veličine otprilike 15 x 15 cm. Da ih povežem s ostatkom krajolika koji sam već sagradio, bit će to borova šuma. Izgradit ću i četiri komada teškog (neravnog) terena koji se razlikuju u veličini, od stvarno malih 5 x 5 cm do nešto većih 10 x 15 cm. Ideja iza ovoga je da, iako ometaju kretanje, ne dopuštaju nikakav cover. Bit će samo smetnja na bojnom polju.
  
  	Napravit ću i četiri ograde veličine 1,5 x 10 cm i drveni ulaz u grad s natpisom veličine 20 x 5 cm. Ograde će pružiti soft cover tijekom igranja igre Malifaux, kao i malo ometati kretanje.
  
  	Dalje, izgradit ću nekoliko manjih komada terena: poljski WC (jer što je grad na divljem zapadu bez barem jedne takve zgrade) i drveni bunar. Ti bi manji komadi osigurali hard cover i pružali će kao blokada za kretanje i pucanje (line of sight). Za kraj ovog članka, dodat ću nekoliko spremnika. Jedna će biti metalna posuda za ugljen, a druga jednostavni drveni sanduk. Oboje će biti malo veći nego što bi se očekivalo, ali odlučio sam se za to jer želim da pruže dovoljno prostora za modele ukoliko ih igrač želi postaviti na spremnike.
  
  	  
  
  	Materijali i alati
  
  	Nakon što sam pripremio većinu dizajna, konačno sam mogao napraviti popis potrebnih alata i materijala. Za ovaj projekt trebat će mi sljedeći materijali:
  
  	- jedna letvica od 5x5 mm (isporučuje se u dužini od 1 m)
  
  	- otprilike jedna daska balze debljine 2 mm (isporučuju se u daskama 10 x 100 cm)
  
  	- otprilike pola daske balze debljine 5 mm
  
  	- mali komad stirodura od 5 cm
  
  	- oko 50x30 cm komad MDF ploče debljine 4 mm
  
  	- super ljepilo
  
  	- PVA ljepilo
  
  	- šljunak (najmanje tri veličine)
  
  	- statička trava
  
  	- brusni papir (1 list)
  
  	- plasticard (debljina 0,75 mm, jedan list 20x30cm)
  
  	- traka za maskiranje
  
  	- uredske igle
  
  	- škriljevac
  
  	- korijenje i grančice
  
  	- borova / jela
  
  	- Siligum (jedan paket)
  
  	- gips
  
  	Potrebni alati su:
  
  	- skalpel
  
  	- marker
  
  	- pila za modeliranje
  
  	- ručna bušilica (ili električna mini bušilica)
  
  	- kistovi - raznih veličina - za bojanje / washanje i za drybrush
  
  	- kliješta i pinceta
  
  	- šilo
  
  	- ljepilo za plastiku, PVA ljepilo i super ljepilo
  
  	- crni temeljni sprej
  
  	- električna ubodna pila *
  
  	- električna brusilica *
  
  	* Za izradu baza koristit ću brusilicu i ubodnu pilu Proxxon. No osnove se mogu rezati ručnim alatima poput modelarske pile i brusiti brusnim papirom. Trebat će vam samo malo više vremena i snage.
  
  	Izrada baza
  
  	Nakon što sam nacrtao grube obrise svojih baza na MDF ploči s markerom, krenuo sam ju rezati pomoću ubodne pile. Kad su izrađeni grubi oblici, kvadratići, nacrtao sam točne oblike svojih komada terena na MDF-bazama i opet ih pomoću ubodne pile izrezao sam po veličini. Nakon što je rezanje obavljeno, brusilicom sam iz brusio rubove. To će osigurati lijep prijelaz između stola i baze terena.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Nakon što su obavljena osnovna oblikovanja mog terena, sada sam morao distribuirati razne scenske elemente po bazama. To je značilo da izvadim svoje zalihe crnogoričnog drveća i komade škriljevca koje koristim za svoje teren. Škriljevac je nevjerojatna vrsta kamena koja vam omogućuje da ga oblikujete bez ikakvog napora (ili barem sa minimalnim naporom). Građen je od mnogih paralelnih slojeva koji se mogu oguliti i kada se debljina kamena dovoljno smanji, može se čak i slomiti rukama. To je posebno korisno u manjim scenskim djelima poput baza za minijature. Ako ste dovoljno oprezni, možete ga čak i probušiti kako biste čak i svoje modele pinirali za kamenje, a nakon toga i za njihove baze. Druga je dobra stvar što je Medvednica napravljena od škriljevca, tako da je zaista zgodno za prikupljanje. Još jedna stvar koju sam otkrio tijekom planinarenja je da u šumi se obično nalazi nekoliko prevrnutih stabala. Njima očito korijenje viri van iz zemlje, a korjenje izgleda sjajno kao isušena stabla na bazama, pa čak i na terenu što ću kasnije pokazati u ovom članku. Ali za sada ćemo se okrenuti škriljevcu. Prije upotrebe komada škriljevca na bazi / terenu, predlažem da ih operete šmrkom (nešto što predlažem da učinite i s korijenjem) i osušite na suncu. Prvo ćete ukloniti prašinu s kamenja što će omogućiti da se kamen (ili korijen) potpuno zalijepi na površinu baze, ali također boja neće ljuštiti. Drugo, i što je još važnije, kamenje i korijenje koje dolazi iz šume mogu sadržavati klice i druge prljavštine, čak i uzrokovati mišju groznicu, pa je zaista važno temeljito ih oprati. Nakon pranja ostavite da se polako osuši na suncu. Ne zaboravite da nakon rukovanja s nečistim škriljevcem i korijenjem uvijek dobro operete ruke! Također, ako imate pri ruci, koristite zaštitne rukavice kad je to moguće. Kad se škriljevac osušio, postavio sam ga zajedno sa borovima na baze. Jednom kad sam bio zadovoljan smještajem, PVA ljepilom sam škriljeva zalijepio na odgovarajuća mjesta. Drveća sam grupirao prema bazama na koja će se pred kraj izrade postaviti i pažljivo sam ih označio (i drveće i baze) kako kasnije ne bi bilo zabune. Drveća koja sam koristio su stabla NOCH koja dolaze u vrećici od 50 i koštaju oko 40 USD (NOCH je njemački proizvođač opreme za makete vlakova). Uklonio sam debla stabala sa borova i zalijepio ih na podloge. To će omogućiti lakše bojanje terena, a kad je završeno, krošnje stabala ću jednostavno zalijepiti na njihova debla.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Ulaz u grad
  
  	Kad se ljepilo na deblima i malim komadićima škriljevca osušilo, mogao sam se okrenuti izgradnji gradskog ulaza. U početku sam ga htio napraviti od drvenih greda koje je čovjek tesao, ali gledajući moje korijenje i grančice, našao sam tri grančice koje su bile savršene za izgled Starog Zapada koji sam želio. Pomoću ručne mini bušilice izbušio sam dvije rupe na odgovarajućim mjestima na bazi. Koristio sam svrdlo koja je bilo otprilike veličine pribadače koje sam namjeravao upotrijebiti kao pinove (zatike). Međutim, probijanje osovine kroz dno baze značilo bi da će se glava pribadače zalijepiti s donje strane baze što bi učinilo čitav teren klimavim. Da spriječim da se to ne dogodi, koristio sam veće svrdlo da napravim upust dovoljno velik da se u njega smjesti cijela glava pribadače. Superljepilom sam zalijepio dvije grančice u obliku slova Y i spojio ih ravnom grančicom. Zatim sam izrezao nekoliko komada balze širine 5 mm (duga oko 7 cm) i napravio znak za ulaz u grad.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Ograde
  
  	Isto kao i na ulazu u grad, izbušio sam dvije rupe po podlozi ograde da bih omogućio zabijanje stupova ograde. Letvicom od 5 x 5 mm napravio sam 8 stupova za ogradu (2 po bazi) koja sam nakosio duž svakog ruba da bih dobio istrošeni izgled. Prikvačio sam i zalijepio stubove ograde pomoću super ljepila. Zatim sam rezao osam traka balze debljine 2 mm (isto kao što sam koristio na gradskom ulazu) duljine otprilike 12 cm i obrubljivao im se nožem skalpelom. Opet, pomoću super ljepila sam ih zalijepio, dva po ogradi. Namjerno ih nisam zalijepio savršeno ravno da postignem istrošeni izgled.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Poljski zahod
  
  	Uslijedila je izrada poljskog zahoda. Pomoću balze debljine 2 mm izrezao sam četiri zida i krov željenih veličina (na skici je napisano tijekom faze dizajniranja). Superlijepom sam zalijepio komade zida na odgovarajuću podlogu. NAPOMENA: Svi drveni komadići mogu se zalijepiti PVA ljepilom, ali PVA ljepilo se suši puno dulje pa sam se odlučio za ovu bržu metodu. Nakon što je građevina bila na mjestu, odlučio sam dodati pojedinačne daske na vanjske zidove. Time bi se istrošeni efekt još više istaknuo. Porezao sam pojedine daske širine oko 3 - 4 mm. Kad su zidovi bili gotovi, premazao sam crnom bojom unutrašnjost - jer će vrata biti malo otvorena, a iznutra bi bila vidljivo da nije obojano. Kad se temeljna boja osušila, zalijepio sam krov i napravio malu rupu na vratima.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Bunar
  
  	Odlučio sam da neću izrađivati bunar iz pojedinih daski poput zahoda, već da upotrijebim graviranu balzu za oponašanje drvenih zidova bunara. Okomite grede opet su načinjene od lipovih letvica kako bi cijelom bunaru dale određenu strukturnu čvrstoću. Krov je opet napravljen od balze debljine 2 mm.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Sanduk
  
  	Baš kao i bunar, koristio sam graviranu balzu za izradu strana sanduka. Zalijepio sam stranice pomoću super ljepila. Okvir sanduka je rađen balzom izrezanom po veličini, a ja sam čak dodao zakovice pomoću pribadača. Budući da je moj sanduk bio dovoljno velik da stanu čitave pribadače, nisam ih rezao. Ako izrađujete manje sanduke, prvo ih trebate narezati na odgovarajuće dimenzije.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Izrada odljevaka sanduka
  
  	Nakon što je sanduk bio gotov, odlučio sam od njega napraviti kalup. Za izradu kalupa obično koristim Siligum. Siligum je dvokomponentna mješavina koja se umjesi i u 10 minuta tvori gumenu supstancu odličnu za izradu kalupa. Dolazi u pakovanjima od 100 g i 300 g. To je slično Green Stuffu u načinu na koji se mjesi kako bi dobili krajnju smjesu. Nakon što je kalup gotov, pomiješao sam malo gipsa i izlio ga u svoj kalup. Otprilike pola sata kasnije imao sam prvi odljevak.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Spremnik ugljena
  
  	Spremnik za ugljen izrađen je od plastike debljine 0,75 mm. Plastičnu ploču u ovoj debljini je vrlo lako izrezati, ali nedostaje joj neke strukturne čvrstoće. Dosta se savija. Iz tog razloga sam izrezao komad stirodura kako bi se uklopio u okvir plastike i držao ga na mjestu. Za ljepljenje plastike koristio sam Revell plastic cement. Kad se okvir osušio, upotrijebio sam plastičnu ploču iste debljine za dodavanje detalja na stranice. Zakovice su izrađene od kapljica PVA ljepila. Unutrašnjost spremnika bila je prekrivena PVA ljepilom, a potom je stavljen najveći šljunak kako bi predstavljao ugljen kad se jednom teren oboji.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Tekstura
  
  	Sljedeći korak na temelju baze bio je dodavanje teksture. Sve sam prekrio razrijeđenim PVA ljepilom i počeo dodavati šljunak. Zapamtite, započnite s najvećim granulatom i završite s najmanjim. Koristio sam tri različite veličine, od sitnog šljunka do pijeska za činčile. Veći šljunak sam strateški postavio oko baze kako bi stvorio nešto nereda. Dva najmanja granulata slobodno su se raspršila po terenu osiguravajući da dobijem ravnomjernu pokrivenost po cijelom terenu i da nijedno područje ne ostane bez teksture. Koristio sam i pijesak za činčila za izradu ceste (na ulazu u grad) i staze (na izlazu i kroz šume) samo da bih dodao malo raznolikosti. Kad se tekstura osušila, sve sam presprejao crnim mat akrilnim lakom.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Bojanje
  
  	Kad se crna osnovna boja osušila, došlo je vrijeme da se oboji sav teren. Želim da se svi moji tereni uklope u jednu temu (a samim tim i jednu površinu), stoga je bilo prirodno da koristim iste boje i shemu boja kao na prijašnjim terenima. Stoga sam još jednom koristio raspon boja Pebeo Deco. Za podlogu sam koristio Brown (29) i nastavio drybrushati bojom Ocre (51). Svjetlije nijanse izvedene su 50:50 mješavinom Ocre (51) i White (41). Konačni highlight učinio sam s Antique White (69). Cesta i staze prvo su bile obojane u Brown (29), a zatim drybrush Ocre (51) i mješavinom Ocre (51) i White (50) od 50:50. Zadnja dva highlighta su bila Antique White (69) i čisti White (41). Na ovaj način sam imao vizualnu razliku između normalne teksture i dotrajale ceste.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Škriljevac je obojen drybrushom mješavine Black (55) i Grey (50). Sljedeći sloj bio je čisti Grey(54), a završni highlight bio je čisti White (41).
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Zgrade i građevine imaju dvije različite površine i posljedično teksture - krov i drveni zidovi. Nastavio sam bojati drvene zidove drybrush metodom najprije pomoću 50:50 mješavine Black (55) i Grey (54). Sljedeći sloj bio je čisti Grey (54), a završni highlight bio je Ash Brown (70). Nisam bio baš zadovoljan rezultatom pa sam dodao još jedan highlight čistog White (41). Krov je obojen najprije mješavinom Black (55) i Grey (54), a zatim mješavinu Grey (54) i Antique White (69) sa završnim highlightom gotovo čistim premazom Antique white (69).
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Drveni dijelovi ulaza u grad bili su prekriveni krep trakom kako bi se spriječilo da boja dospije na njega jer je osušeno drvo (s korijena) dovoljno dobro djelovalo. Nakon što je ostatak baze obojan, skinuo sam krep traku i stavio sloj wash-a na balza znak samo da ga malo obojim. Kad se wash osušio, na znak sam napisao Malifaux.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Metalni kontejner ugljena obojen je čistim (stara Citadel boja) Boltgun Metal. Kad se boja osušila, tada sam je velikodušno prekrio crnim washom (u ovom slučaju Nuln Oil). Nakon što se wash osušio, koristio sam Model Mates 'Rust Effect na metalnim komadima i na kraju sam stavio Model Mates' Soot Black efekt da oponašam ostatke ugljena na metalnim dijelovima. Ugljen iznutra bio je obojen crno s nekoliko tamno sivih highlighta.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	Vegetacija
  
  	Nakon bojanja, došlo je vrijeme da se vegetacija doda na baze. Prvo sam odlučio ponovno posaditi borovu šume. Pomoću super ljepila za fiksiranje stabala, jednostavno sam usmjerio žicu na dnu stabala u malu rupu plastičnog debla stabla.
  
  	  
  
  	Kad su stabla postavljena na mjesto, mogao sam dodati statičnu travu. Napravio sam smjesu koristeći nekoliko zelenih, smeđih, žutih i crnih nijansi statičke trave i kad sam bio zadovoljan krajnjom nijansom, zalijepio sam ju nasumično po bazama. Jedino oko čega sam pazio jest da stavim statičku travu na sve preostale rupe na kojima su drvene konstrukcije nisu savršeno nalijegale na svoje baze kako bi sakrio nenamjerne pogreške. Jednom kad je statična trava bila na mjestu, nanio sam nekoliko nijansi različitih busenova. Kao i u prijašnjim člancima, opet, koristio sam busenove tvrtke Gamer's Grass.
  
  	  
  
  	Za šumu i neravni teren dodao sam još duge komade statičke trave kao i neke komade drva (grančice, korijenje i štošta sa mog šumskog pohoda). Na taj način će se osigurati dovoljan izgled grubog terena ili šumskog tla bez nepotrebnog ometanja pri fizičkom micanja tijekom igranja. To je označilo kraj procesa izgradnje i sada sam mogao napraviti svoje posljednje snimke gotovog terena.
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  
  	  
  "
      ["created"]=>
      string(19) "2020-09-11 11:12:50"
      ["modified"]=>
      string(19) "2020-09-11 11:32:09"
    }
    ["Member"]=>
    array(10) {
      ["id"]=>
      string(2) "35"
      ["group_id"]=>
      string(1) "1"
      ["first_name"]=>
      string(5) "Marko"
      ["last_name"]=>
      string(9) "Paunović"
      ["first_name_mask"]=>
      string(5) "marko"
      ["last_name_mask"]=>
      string(8) "paunovic"
      ["username"]=>
      string(5) "marko"
      ["password"]=>
      string(40) "775916114da8d49f1647decef7fb412e0964baae"
      ["born"]=>
      string(19) "2033-03-07 20:35:00"
      ["created"]=>
      string(19) "2009-06-02 20:37:03"
    }
  }
          

  Marko Paunović, 11.09.2020.

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