Borna Pleše

Status u udruzi: Član

Od aktualnih igara u udruzi Borna igra "GW - Warhammer 40.000", a ne skuplja niti jednu vojski... no ne zadugo! :)

Najnoviji članci

  • Posjetili smo: KUP ZAGREB 2022
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    U subotu 11.6. su članovi UMS "Agram" posjetili maketarsko natjecanje pod nazivom Kup Zagreb 2022 koji se ove godine održavao (opet) u prostorima Nacionalne i sveučilišne knjižnice. 

    Ovom prilikom bismo pohvalili napore organizatora da nastavi s tradicijom ovog natjecanja, staru novu lokaciju (Nacionalna i sveučilišna knjižmica) te dobru ponudu i shopping dijelu natjecanja. Prostora za poboljšanje svakako ima, a to su: rasvjeta unutar prostora za natjecanje, nedovoljna promocija na društvenim mrežama (organizator je sam kreirao događaj na društvenoj mreži Facebook, ali je sadržaj slabo ili nikako osvježavan) te nedostatak sadržaja. Naime, jedno najavljeno predavanje je otkazano pa se je jedino održala prezentacija zrakoplovnih modela s demonstracijom rada mlaznog motora. Tako nam je nakon prijave i postavljanja radova, razgledavanja drugih radova i obilaska prodavača preostalo proglašenje pobjednika čekati u okolnim kafićima.

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    Kao i uvijek, bilo je zabavno vidjeti se sa starim prijateljima i kolegama minijaturistima i maketarima, razmijeniti iskustva i mišljenja, pokupiti nešto novih znanja, ali i popiti koju "kavicu".

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    Najzanimljiviji dio natjecanja bila je prezentacija rada turbine mlaznog motora na RC maketi/modelu.

    Nakon ove zanimljive i poučne demonstracije, naša ekipa se odlučila rekuperati uz dobru klopu.

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    Nakon okrijepe u obližnjoj prčvarnici, došlo je i vrijeme za nagrade!

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    Sveukupno, od 18 izložaka koje su članovi UMS Agram prijavili na natjecanje, njih 9 je osvojilo medalje!

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    VIDIMO SE I SLJEDEĆE GODINE!

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    Marko Paunović, 24.06.2022.
  • Bojanje Chaos Space Marinaca
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    Ten Chaos Space Marines from the Shadowspear battlebox I decided to paint in the colors of the Night of the Lords legion. The project took a lot of time (about 40 hours of work), but everything went quite simply and straightforwardly. I left all the backpacks as well as some hands with weapons separate to begin with, and only in the second half of the project did I glue them together as a whole for easier painting.

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    After the black example, I painted the gold, blue, red and metal parts (in that order). This was followed by drying the whole figure with Nuln Oil. After the wash dried I started painting the Higlites. First blue, then gold and then red and metal parts. While I did volume volumes on the blue parts, I did more edge highlights on the other colors. Along the way, I began to paint some details such as the handles of cold steel as well as the copper parts of the plasma guns.

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    Due to the abundance of work and a lot of details, I often had to go back and correct mistakes. I painted black on weapons as well as highlites on black at a later stage. The two figures didn’t have helmets so I painted their heads among the last things. These two figures had plasma guns, so after coloring their heads, I painted the effects of plasma. As a last thing to paint I left the lightning bolts for which the Night Lords are famous. At the very end of the project, I glued the details, arranged the bases and varnished everything with matt varnish.

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    Deset Chaos Space Marinaca iz Shadowspear battleboxa odlučio sam obojati u boje legije Night Lordova. Projekt je oduzeo dosta vremena (oko 40h rada), ali sve je išlo prilično jednostavno i pravocrtno. Sve backpackove kao i neke ruke s oružjem sam za početak ostavio odvojene i tek u drugoj polovici projekta sam ih zalijepio u cjelinu radi lakšeg bojanja.

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    Nakon crnog primera obojao sam zlatne, plave, crvene i metalne dijelove (tim redom). Slijedilo je washanje cijele figure Nuln Oilom. Nakon što se wash osušio krenuo sam s bojanjem higliteova. Prvo plavih, zatim zlatnih i potom crvenih i metalnih dijelova. Dok sam na plavim dijelovima radio volumnie highliteove na ostalim bojama sam više radio edge highliteove. Usput sam počeo bojati i neke detalje kao što su drške hladnog oružja kao i bakrene dijelove plasma gunova.

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    Zbog obilja posla i puno detalja, često sam se morao vraćati i popravljati greške. Crnu na oružju kao i highliteove na crnoj obojao sam u kasnijoj fazi. Dvije figure nisu imale kacige pa sam među zadnjim stvarima obojao njihove glave. Upravo su te dvije figure imale plasma gunove te sam nakon bojanja glava obojao i efekte plazme. Kao zadnju stvar za bojanje ostavio sam munje po kojima su Night Lordovi poznati. Na samom finishu projekta polijepio sam decale, uredio baze i polakirao sve mat lakom.

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    Dalibor Čavić, 15.06.2022.
  • Daliborov Top Tip Freehand 2
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    Another freehand SBS! Enjoy

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    Još jedan set fotografija procesa slikanja freehand-a. Ovaj put lav na štitu!

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    Dalibor Čavić, 02.06.2022.
  • Daliborov Top Tip Freehand 1
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    No explanation necessary!

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    Nakon ovih fotografija, objašnjenje nije potrebno!

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    Dalibor Čavić, 02.06.2022.
  • Radionica izrade vinjeta i baza za diorame 2022 – korak po korak
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    During the weekend 21.-22.5.2022. vignette and diorama base making workshop was held. Participants had the opportunity to get acquainted with the materials and tools for making dioramas and, after acquiring theoretical knowledge, apply the same to a practical example. This article will briefly describe the process of making this diorama.

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    The first step, after making the draft, is to make the base for the diorama. We decided to cast in gypsum so it was first necessary to make a mold. The underside of the mold was plain overhead transparencies that we placed on a 1: 1 scale base design. We fastened the foil with crepe tape. Another way is to draw the shape of the base directly on the foil with a permanent marker (note that in this case the left becomes the right or to mirror the drawing). We made the frame of the mold from balsa 5 mm thick, and the insert with which we made a water basin from two pieces of balsa glued to each other. Another option is to cut that styrofoam insert. We glued the balm with super foil glue (in two points for easier separation), while we fastened the balm laths on the contacts with pins.

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    Then we mixed the plaster. Gypsum from a hobby shop was used (for approx. 30-40 kn / kg). It is mixed with water so that a slightly liquid mixture is obtained, so that it can leak on its own, but it is not watery. We filled the mold, making sure that the plaster entered the thin parts around the pool intended for rubber. After drying for about an hour, we removed the casting from the mold and patched all possible defects and holes with DAS clay. When everything was dry, we sanded the excess.

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    Then we started building the base superstructure. The photographs show the production using DAS clay. It is more durable because it requires drying for at least 24 hours, so we decided at the workshop to cut the superstructure from styrofoam.

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    This was followed by modeling the terrain using DAS clay, to which we only added volume in certain places and plotted the texture. We coated everything with gypsum or PVA glue and set the sand texture in two granulations. During the creation of the terrain shape, we set up human parts of the diorama (barrel and pier) every now and then to check the positions and relationships between the parts of the diorama. The barrel is a 3D resin print while we made the pier from balsa boards 2 and 5 mm thick. We carefully cut each board individually and glued them together with superglue.

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    PAINTING OF THE METAL BARREL:

    The last step of the first day of the Workshop was to give the basic color to the barrels. We did this using Citadel acrylic paints: Runefang Steel and two layers of wash from the same company: Nuln Oil and Reikland Fleshshade. Then the next day we coated the barrel with the Heavy Chipping effect of Ammo by Mig Jimenez and sprayed it with yellow acrylic spray. After drying for about 10 minutes, remove the excess yellow color using soft ear sticks and the remains of soft balsa slats. After additional drying, we added rusty effects using Oilbrusher oil paints (Rust and Orange) and removed the excess with Odourless Thinner from the same company.

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    PAINTING OF THE BASE:

    We painted the base with Pebeo Deco acrylic paints. They have more pigment than Citadel paint, but it is also a coarser pigment so it is suitable for the drybrush method. It is significantly lower in price, so it is suitable for large areas. We painted the lower part of the base (immersed in slice / water) in shades of green with the colors that were available to us, considering that three layers of resin go on that part.

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    PAINTING A WOODEN PIER: 

    Painting of the pier was started using different Citadel washes (Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade and Seraphim Sepia). Each board in its own wash and after drying in another layer of Nuln Oil wash to connect into one whole. This was followed by a layer of drybrush in a light gray shade. In the end, everything is painted with oil effects (Oilbrusher: Olive Green and Dark Green).

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    PREPARATION OF SELF-MADE VEGETATION:

    We made sedges and water lilies in our own hands. We made water lilies from a DAS clay disk with a hole for a pin, and the flower was drawn on paper and cut out. The sedge, on the other hand, was made on a pin, on top of which we glued sand with superglue to get a flower. And the leaves are cut from pre-colored paper to green.

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    STORE-BOUGHT VEGETATION:

    From the purchased vegetation we used static grass (Citadel, Green Stuff World, etc.), sod (tufts) (Gamer's Grass, Green Stuff World, Ammo by Mig Jimenez), shrubs (Green Stuff World, Martin Welberg Scenic Studios, Diorama Presepe), flowers (Diorama Presepe). We also used wood roots (which you can find in forests on overturned trees) as dried trees.

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    UV RESIN:

    For the water effect, we used a UV resin from Green Stuff World. It is easy to use because the resin is one-component and requires only pouring into your "pool". After pouring the first layer, we "baked" it with a UV lamp (also from Green Stuff World). When the layer dried, we covered it with Marabu green alcohol wash. We repeated the same step three times putting in fewer and fewer washes. After the last layer of UV resin, we did not put any ink.

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    Then we continued with the vegetation, moving first from the lower to the higher.

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    And with that we finished making the base for the diorama.

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    Tijekom vikenda 21.-22.5.2022. održala se Radionica izrade vinjeta i baza za diorame. Polaznici su imali priliku upoznati se sa materijalima i alatima za izradu diorama te nakon usvojenog teoretskog znanja, primijeniti isto na praktičnom primjeru. U ovom članku će se ukratko opisati proces izrade predmetne diorame.

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    Prvi korak, nakon izrade nacrta, jest izrada baze za dioramu. Odlučili smo se za lijevanje u gipsu stoga je prvo bilo potrebno izraditi kalup. Donja strana kalupa bila je obična grafoskopska folija koju smo postavili na nacrt baze u mjerilu 1:1. Foliju smo učvrstili kreptrakom. Drugi način je da se permanentnim markerom direktno na foliju ucrta oblik baze (imajte na umu, da u tom slučaju lijevo postaje desno odn. da zazrcalite nacrt). Okvir kalupa smo pak izradili od balze debljine 5mm, a umetak kojim smo napravili bazen za vodu od dva komada balze zalijepljene jedan na drugi. Druga opcija jest izrezati taj umetak od stirodura. Balzu smo zalijepili superljepilom za foliju (u dvije točke radi lakšeg odvajanja), dok smo letvice balze na kontaktima pričvrstili pribadačama.

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    Zatim smo umiješali gips. Korišten je gips iz hobby dućana (za cca 30-40kn/kg). Pomiješa se s vodom tako da se dobije lagano tekuća smjesa, da može sama od sebe curiti, ali da nije vodena. Ispunili smo kalup, pazeći pri tome da gips uđe u tanke dijelove oko bazena namijenjenog za rezin. Nakon sušenja od cca sat vremena izvadili smo odljevak iz kalupa te DAS glinamolom pokrpali sve eventualne nedostatke i rupe. Kada se sve osušilo, pobrusili smo viškove.

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    Potom smo krenuli u izradu nadgrađa baze. Na fotografijama je prikazana izrada pomoću DAS glinamola. Ona je dugotrajnija jer zahtjeva sušenje od barem 24 sata stoga smo se na samoj radionici odlučili da nadgrađe izrežemo iz stirodura.

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    Uslijedilo je modeliranje terena korištenjem DAS glinamola kojim smo samo nadodali volumen na određenim mjestima i ucrtali teksturu. Sve smo premazali gipsom ili PVA ljepilom te postavili teksturu od pijeska u dvije granulacije. Tijekom izrade oblika terena, svako toliko smo postavljali ljudske dijelove diorame (bačva i molo) kako bismo provjerili pozicije i odnose među dijelovima diorame. Bačva je 3D rezinski print dok smo molo izradili iz daski balze debljine 2 i 5 mm. Pažljivo smo izrezali svaku dasku ponaosob i zaljepili ih superljepilom.

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    BOJANJE BAČVE:

    Zadnji korak prvog dana Radionice bio je davanje osnovne boje bačvi. To smo uradili koristeći akrilne boje tvrtke Citadel: Runefang Steel i dva sloja wash-a iste tvrtke: Nuln Oil i Reikland Fleshshade. Potom smo sljedeći dan premazali bačvu sa Heavy Chipping efektom tvrtke Ammo by Mig Jimenez te posprejali žutim akrilnim sprejem. Nakon sušenja od cca 10 minuta, korištenjem mekanih štapića za uši i ostataka mekanih letvica od balze uklonili višak žute boje. Nakon dodatnog sušenja, dodali smo hrđave efekte korištenjem uljnih boja Oilbrusher (Rust i Orange) te uklonili viškove sa Odourless Thinner-om iste tvrtke.

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    BOJANJE BAZE:

    Bazu smo bojali Pebeo Deco akrilnim bojama. One imaju više pigmenta od Citadel boja, ali isto je tako i grubljeg pigmenta stoga je pogodna za drybrush metodu. Bitno je niže cijene pa je pogodna za velike površine. Donji dio baze (uronjen u rezin/vodu) obojali smo u zelene nijanse bojama koje su nam bile na raspolaganju s obzirom da na taj dio ide tri sloja rezina.

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    BOJANJE DRVENOG MOLA: 

    Bojanje oglednog primjerka započeto je korištenjem različitih Citadel wash-eva (Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade i Seraphim Sepia). Svaka daska u svoj wash te po sušenju u još jedan sloj Nuln Oil wash-a da se povežu u jednu cjelinu. Nakon toga uslijedio je sloj drybrush-a svijetlo sivom nijansom. Na kraju je sve obojano uljnim efektima (Oilbrusher: Olive Green i Dark Green).

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    IZRADA VLASTITE VEGETACIJE:

    Šaš i lopoče smo izradili u samoizradi. Lopoče smo izradili iz diska DAS glinamola sa rupom za pribadaču, a cvijet je ucrtan na papiru i izrezan. Šaš je pak izrađen na pribadači na čiji vrh smo superljepilom zalijepili pijesak kako bismo dobili cvijet. A lišće je izrezano iz prethodno obojanog papira u zeleno.

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    KUPOVNA VEGETACIJA:

    Od kupovne vegetacije koristili smo statičku travu (Citadel, Green Stuff World itd), busenje (tuftove) (Gamer's Grass, Green Stuff World, Ammo by Mig Jimenez), grmlje (Green Stuff World, Martin Welberg Scenic Studios, Diorama Presepe), cvijeće (Diorama Presepe). Također, koristili smo i drveno korjenje (koje možete pronaći u šumama na prevrnutim stablima) kao sasušeno drveće.

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    UV REZIN:

    Za vodeni efekt koristili smo UV rezin tvrtke Green Stuff World. Korištenje je jednostavno jer je rezin jednokomponentan i zahtijeva samo izlijevanje u vaš „bazen“. Nakon što smo izlili prvi sloj, „zapekli“ smo ga UV lampom (također tvrtke Green Stuff World). Kada se sloj osušio, prekrili smo ga alkoholnim wash-em zelene boje tvrtke Marabu. Isti korak smo ponovili tri puta pri čemu smo stavljali sve manje i manje wash-a. Nakon zadnjeg sloja UV rezina, nismo stavili više ink.

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    Zatim smo nastavili sa stavljanjem vegetacije, krenuvši prvo sa nižom prema višoj.

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    I time smo završili izradu baze za dioramu.

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    Marko Paunović, 25.05.2022.

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