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Demonstracije stolnih strateških igara na Black Queen 2024

Datum događaja: 24.02.2024., 13:00h - 25.02.2024., 15:30h 18.02.2024., objavio Ana Polanšćak u Najavama i reportažama događanja

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Wargaming demoi opet na Black Queen Miniature Painting Competition 2024!

naša Ana će voditi demo partije Forbidden Psalm i The Doomed tijekom cijelog vikenda!

The Bigbear Miniatures i Zone Miniatures na Black Queen 2024

12.02.2024., objavio Krunoslav Belinić u Novostima

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Čast nam je predstaviti naše nove sponzore: The Bigbear miniatures i Zone Miniatures koji će imati svoj štand cijelu subotu i nedjelju ujutro za vrijeme našeg Black Queen Miniature Painting Competition 2024!

Kod njih ćete moći nabaviti povijesne figure od Zone Miniatures, Medieval Forged Miniatures, Fan Art Models, Semper Fidelis, ali i kistove od Rosemary and Co!

Pored toga, Gabor će cijeli vikend bojati povijesne 75 mm figure (srednjevjekovne) tako da možete doći i pogledati...

Pročitaj više o "The Bigbear Miniatures i Zone Miniatures na Black Queen 2024"

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  • Back To Basics radionice za najmlađe na Black Queen 2024
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    Kratka galerija sa prvih Back To Basics radionica održanih u organizaciji UMS "Agram". Radionice su se održavale u sklopu našeg međunarodnog natjecanja u bojanju minijatura Black Queen Hobby & Miniature Painting Competition 2024 u subotu i nedjelju, 24.-25.2.2024.

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    Krunoslav Belinić, 28.02.2024.
  • Top Tip – toplo-hladna kupka
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    Have you ever received a bent resin part as a part of a miniature? A sword that isn't straight? If so, there is a simple method to fix it.

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    You need: a water heater (or stove) and two cups. Fill one cup with hot (boiling) water and the other with cold water. Ice helps if you have it.

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    Dunk the bent part in the boiling water.

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    Then, holding the shape you want with your fingers, dip in cold/ice water.

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    And that’s it. Straight as a bear’s… nevermind.

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    Da li ste ikad dobili savinuti rezinski dio? Mač koji nije ravan? Ukoliko jeste, postoji jednostavna metoda za ispravljanje.

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    Potrebno vam je: grijalo za vodu (ili štednjak) i dvije šalice. Jednu šalicu napunite vrućom vodom (kipućom), a drugu hladnom vodom. Led pomaže ukoliko ga imate.

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    Umočite savinuti dio u vruću vodu.

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    Potom, držeći oblik koji želite prstima, umočite u hladnu/ledenu vodu.

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    I to je to. Ravno!

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    Marko Paunović, 15.02.2024.
  • Kimera kistovi
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    I recently acquired two Kolinsky Sable natural bristle Kimera brushes and tested them for painting miniatures. From 5 possible sizes I took:
    - N0 arrow point, according to the description on the website, is intended for drawing eyes, blending and multi-purpose
    - N00 round point, for details and outlining

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    For testing I used the recently won Night Troopers unit.

    Arrow point brush proved to be good for covering larger areas. I had pretty good control over the color and added and moved a better one around the figure without too much trouble. It took me a while to get used to the brush, but that's probably due to my lack of skill, not a bad brush.

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    I liked the round point brush even more. I worked equally well with paint (used Scale 75 colors) and washes (GW Washes). Highlighting and outlining were quite simple for me. In the beginning, it took me two or three attempts, but very quickly I was able to achieve the desired effect from the first attempt.

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    The gold outline by Troopers was satisfactory even with a thicker Arrow brush, although the edges needed to be repaired with white paint. I used the N00 brush to draw out the red bands and it was much easier and less repairs. Repairs are also very easy because the color control with the brushes is very good and precise.

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    All in all, I'm very pleased and I'm seriously fantasizing about buying all 5 brush models… or a subtle totally unintentional suggestion from family for a birthday present.

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    Nedavno sam nabavio dva Kimera kista od Kolinsky Sable prirodne dlake i testirao ih za bojanje minijatura. Od 5 mogućih veličina uzeo sam:
    - N0 arrow point, prema opisu na web siteu namijenjen je crtanju očiju, blending i multipraktičan
    - N00 round point, za detalje i outlining

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    Za testiranje sam iskoristio nedavno osvojenu jedinicu Night Troopera.

    Arrow point kist se pokazao dobrim za prekrivanje većih površina. Imao sam prilično dobru kontrolu nad bojom i bez velikih problema dodavao i premještao bolju po figuri. Trebalo mi je vremena dok sam se naviknuo na kist, no tome je vjerojatno razlog moj nedostatak vještine, a ne loš kist.

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    Round point kist mi je bio još draži. Podjednako dobro sam radio s bojom (koristio Scale 75 boje) i s washevima (GW Washevi). Highlighti i outlining su mi bili prilično jednostavni. U početku mi je trebalo dva ili tri pokušaja, no vrlo brzo sam uspijevao postići željeni efekt iz prvog pokušaja.

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    Zlatni outline po Trooperima je čak i debljim Arrow kistom bio zadovoljavajući iako je trebalo popravljati rubove bijelom bojom. Crvene trake sam izvlačio N00 kistom i bilo je puno lakše i manje popravaka. Također su i popravci vrlo jednostavni jer je kontrola boje s kistovima jako dobro i precizna.

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    Sve u svemu jako sam zadovoljan i ozbiljno maštam o kupnji svih 5 modela kistova… ili suptilnoj totalno nenamjernoj sugestiji obitelji za rođendanski poklon.

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    Krunoslav Belinić, 19.01.2024.
  • Stegadon konverzija - dio 2
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    In this article, we continue with the conversion of a stegadon kit to a Mazdamundi. In the last part I talked about changing the anatomy of the stegadon to make it more imposing, in this one the topic is putting together the entire ensemble that goes on (and around) it.

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    I pulled quite a few parts and bits from the set, as many as I thought I would need to scribble on the figure. Given that this is the leader of the faction and one of the religious leaders, I think he should express it in a bunch of holy objects and decorations on himself. I don't necessarily mean to use them all, but it's good to have a surplus for projects like this.

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    First, Mazdamundi itself. Looking at art from GW and Total war concepts, plus comparing many existing conversions (if you're interested, I recommend googling this topic, there are excellent works on the net), I created a certain image in my head of what I wanted it to look like. Considering my current skill level, I decided to model a head crest/crown, with earrings and a green stuff background. I made the earrings by flattening the green stuff on the blister plastic and then cutting out shapes that would be glued to each other. The skulls are an imprint of the blue stuff mold on the crest that is on his head, they are filled with green stuff and relatively bad, each earring is from the third attempt approx., I need to work on that.

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    Since the Slann model I have is metal and the rest of the model is plastic, the weight ratio is not in my favor. I decided to magnetize it so that it can move during transport. I previously filled some stegadon inside with milliput to make it heavier, but still this fat frog on the throne is very heavy (at least it's lore friendly). The picture does not show the magnet on the stegadon construction (older picture), but the magnet sits roughly in the middle and fits well. I sawed off the sides of the stegi plate so the Mazdamundi could fit and added a circle from Engine of the gods behind, to make it game friendly (plus, it looks cooler to me).

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    When I placed the chonker on the throne, I placed other skinks on and around the stegadon to act as a guard of honor to accompany him. So around Mazdamundi should be his generals next to the throne, ensigns behind and some fighters in front. I want everything to look like the composition of a Rubens painting, with lots of elements moving in space. For decorations, I added some sort of crown to the stegadon itself and slightly extended the construction behind the circle.

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    In the next part, we start coloring, the adventure continues...

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    U ovom članku nastavljamo sa konverzijom stegadon kita u Mazdamundija. U prošlom dijelu pričao sam o mijenjanju anatomije stegadona da bude impozantniji, u ovome je tema sastavljanje cjelokupnog ansambla koji ide na (i oko) njega.

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    Izvukao sam dosta dijelova i bitsa iz seta, koliko god sam mislio da će mi trebati za načrčkati na figuru. S obzirom da je ovo vođa frakcije i jedan od religijskih vođa, mislim da bi trebao iskazivati to u hrpetini svetih predmeta i ukrasa po sebi. Ne mislim ih nužno sve koristiti, ali dobro dođe imati višak kod ovakvih projekata.

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    Prvo, sam Mazdamundi. Gledajući art od GW-a i Total war koncepte, plus uspoređujući mnoge postojeće konverzije (ako vas zanima, preporučujem guglat ovu temu, ima izvrsnih radova na netu), stvorio sam određenu sliku u glavi kako želim da izgleda. Uzimajući u obzir moj sadašnji skill level, odlučio sam modelirati naglavnu krestu/krunu, sa naušnicama i pozadinom od green stuff-a. Naušnice sam radio tako da sam spljoštio green stuff na plastiku od blistera i onda izrezivao oblike koje bi lijepio jedan za drugi. Lubanje su otisak blue stuff kalupa na krestu koja mu je na glavi, popunjene su green stuffom i to relativno loše, svaka naušnica je iz trećeg pokušaja cca, trebam radit na tome.

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    S obzirom da je Slann model koji imam metalni, a ostatak modela plastičan, odnos težine nije u moju korist. Odlučio sam magnetizirati ga da se može micati u transportu. Prije sam popunio malo stegadona iznutra sa miliputom da bi bio teži, no i dalje je ovaj debeli žabac na prijestolju jako težak (barem je lore friendly). Na slici se ne vidi magnet na konstrukciji stegadona(starija slika), ali magnet je sjeo otprilike na sredinu i paše dobro. Ispilio sam bočne stranice stegijeve ploče da Mazdamundi može stati i dodao iza krug od Engine of the gods, da bude i game friendly (plus, izgleda mi više cool).

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    Kad sam postavio chonkera na tron, postavio sam i druge skinkove na i oko stegadona da bude kao počasna garda koja ga prati. Tako bi trebali oko Mazdamundija bit njegovi generali kraj trona, zastavnici iza i nekakvi borci naprijed. Želim da se sve doima kao kompozicija Rubensove slike, sa puno elemenata koji se gibaju u prostoru. Za ukrase sam dodao i nekakvu krunu na samog stegadona i malo produžio konstrukciju iza kruga.

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    U idućem dijelu počinjemo sa bojanjem, avantura se nastavlja…

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    Mario Grgurev, 19.01.2024.
  • Diorama sastavljanja Mecha
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    In today's article I describe how to make a diorama mech from Heavy Gear Blitz. The idea was to make a representation of the assembly of mecha in a warehouse, an image that was etched in my memory from various sources, either the games I played or the anime I watched.

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     I wanted to do a relatively peaceful scene where the mech is in the middle of being assembled, with workers walking around it.

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    After a lot of thinking (and a couple of sketches), I decided to place it on the plinth I had, and to add the background from which the horizontal construction with the crane goes. The background and the base on which it stands would be painted instead of three-dimensional elements, to give the effect of a cartoon.

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    The first step was to modify the mech itself. Heavy gear blitz mechs have a nice old-school aesthetic to me, and I chose the F2-19 model, which I already use in my army. However, the F2-19 is a bit disproportionate in my opinion and lacks a certain amount of "oomph" that I like in my mech fantasies. So I tackled adding the monster cannon and jetpack, and added a shoulder shield to reinforce the upper torso. My only regret is the lack of a melee weapon or at least a shield, but that seems to be for a future project.

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    After completing the mech conversion, I started with the rendering of the crane and metal beams. I attached the base to the beams that Marko brought me from Berlin, and I placed the rest at a satisfactory height above the model itself. After stretching with the load capacity and placing the crane at an adequate distance, I decided that the arm would be magnetized for the crane. This, along with the reality of the sentiment, is also more practical for conveying and setting up. In retrospect, I should have strengthened those beams somehow, now when I put my hand on it, the whole structure bends slightly. But it looks good in the pictures :D.

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    Painting was a dual experience. Both the mech and the background were painted twice because I made mistakes on both. I first painted the mech the way I explained in the last article, but I did it in too many layers and it turned out like NMM shading, which is not the effect I was looking for. I fixed it by repainting the unnecessary layers and it turned out more "striped". I thought the background itself too complex for my skill level. After the mistakes I made with the thin marker, I decided to simplify and it turned out better. A couple of rivets and some pipe, on that scale it turns out better than many small elements that are drawn imprecisely.

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    The last element that was missing was the workers. I found a couple of low poly models that Kiki printed for me in a suitable scale, after a couple of layers of paint (radius to make them easier to differentiate from the rest of the models) and the diorama was ready.

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    U današnjem članku opisujem izradu diorame mecha iz Heavy Gear Blitz-a. Ideja je bila napraviti prikaz sastavljanja mecha u skladištu, slika koja mi se urezala u pamćenje iz raznih izvora, bilo igara koje sam igrao ili animea koje sam gledao.

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     Htio sam napraviti relativno spokojnu scenu u kojoj se mech nalazi usred sastavljanja, s radnicima koji ga obilaze.

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    Nakon dosta promišljanja (i par skica), odlučio sam ga postaviti na plinth koji sam imao, te dodati pozadinu iz koje ide horizontalna konstrukcija sa kranom. Pozdaina i podloga na kojoj stoji bi bilo obojani umjesto trodimenzionalnih elemenata, da se dobije efekt crtanog filma.

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    Prvi korak je bio modifikacija samog mecha. Heavy gear blitz mechovi meni imaju simpaticnu oldschool estetiku te sam odabrao model F2-19 koji već koristim u svojoj vojsci. No, F2-19 je po meni malo neproporcionalan i fali mi određena doza „oompha“ koju volim u svojim mech fantazijama. Dakle pozabavio sam se dodavanjem mrcinskog topa i jetpacka, te dodanim štitom na ramenu za pojačanje gornjeg dijela trupa. Jedino žalim nedostatak meelee oružja ili barem štita, ali to je, izgleda, za idući projekt.

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    Po završetku konverzije mecha, počeo sam sa sceniranjem krana i metalnih greda. Podlogu sam psotavio na grede koje mi je Marko donio iz Berlina, te sam ostatak postavio na neku zadovoljavajuću visinu iznad samog modela. Nakon natezanja sa nosivosti i postavljanjem krana na adekvatnu udaljenost, odlučio sam daa će ruka biti magnetizirana za kran. To je, uz realnost sentimenta, i praktičnije za prenošenje i postavu. U retrospektivi, trebao sam još ojačati te grede nekako, sad kad postavim ruku, blago se iskrivi cijela konstrukcija. No izgleda dobro na slikama :D .

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    Bojanje je bilo dvojako iskustvo. I mech i pozadina su bili bojani dva puta jer sam radio greške na oboma. Mech sam prvo farbao na način koji sam objasnio u prošlom članku, no radio sam to u previše slojeva pa je ispalo kao NMM shading, što nije efekt koji sam tražio. Popravio sam ga tako da sam prefarbao nepotrebne slojeve i ispalo je više „crtičasto“. Samu pozadinu sam zamislio prekompleksnu za moju razinu vještine. Nakon grešaka koje sam radio sa tankim flomasterom, odlučio sam pojednostavit i ispalo je bolje. Par zakovica i koja cijev, na tom mjerilu ispada bolje nego mnogi mali elementi koji su nacrtani neprecizno.

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    Zadnji element koji je falio su radnici. Našao sam par low poly modela koje mi je isprintao Kiki u prikladnom mjerilu, nakon par slojeva boje (žarke da se lakše diferenciraju od ostatka modela) i diorama je bila gotova.

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    Mario Grgurev, 19.01.2024.

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