Diorama SSSR 1986 – dio 2

Marko Paunović, 02.02.2022.

U ovoj seriji članaka pisat ću o izradi diorame SSSR 1986. Pokazat ću kako sam izradio sami „teren“ i maketu te kako sam ih obojao i koje efekte sam koristio. Pored toga, bit će riječi i o vegetaciji i rezinima.

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U ovom članku nastavljam rad na diorami bojanjem baze. Prvo sam nanio osnovne tonove bojama koje uvijek koristim za bojanje baza i terena – Pebeo Deco. Relativno su pristupačne, cijenom po ml 3-4 puta jeftinije od standardnih minijaturističkih akrilnih boja (Citadel, S75, Ammo, Vallejo). Imaju dosta pigmenta i podosta su viskozne tako da su pogodne za drybrush.

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Nakon što su se osnovni tonovi osušili, prekrio sam bazu s nekoliko slojeva Citadel Washeva (Sepia i Earth). Potrebno je pustiti svaki sloj da se osuši prije nanošenja novog. Washevima se fino istaknu svi detalji u teksturi poput tragova guma.

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Potom su uslijedila dva, tri sloja posvjetljavanja terena drybrush tehnikom. Također sam koristio Pebeo Deco boje.

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Nakon toga sam dodao pigmente. Na mjestima više, na mjestima manje da se dobije efekt suhog blata…

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Zadnji korak u ovom članku je dodavanje rezina da napravim lokve u tragovima kotača. Koristio sam GSW UV rezin. Suši se pod UV lampom u roku 15ak sekundi. Kad se osušio, budući da je proziran, odlučio sam ga malo zamrljati koristeći Sepia wash pomiješan sjajnim lakom. Kad se i wash osušio, sve sam prekrio ponovno sa sjajnim lakom.

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Za ovaj članak, to je to. Sljedeći put stavljam vegetaciju.

Najnoviji članci

  • Njušketiri – Danska doga
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        string(31) "Three Musketeers – Great Dane"
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    The first step in painting the Great Dane (after priming and zenithal) was to cover the surface with off white paint. I applied two semi-transparent layers of paint to keep the zenithal effect visible. Since I decided on white fur with black spots, I chose a blue-gray shade for the base of the spots.

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    I thinned it with water until it was sent very viscous and in contact with the base paint on the model it spread into clear spots with sharp dark edges. I made larger and smaller patches, trying to imitate the irregularity of the fur characteristic of that type of dog.

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    In the next step, I diluted the same color more and filled in larger spots, covering a smaller area in them. I was careful to leave a visible band of lighter stain underneath. In the penultimate step, I filled in the center of the spots with black, tearing an even smaller area and thus ensuring that the spots are known to be black. I also painted the tip of the muzzle and the parts that are in deep shadow with black. Then I covered the sharp edge of the lightest spots with off white color in places, by drawing thin lines of white color in the direction in which the hair should lie. This gave me the impression that the fur was made up of hairs and broke up the sharp edge of the spots which looks unnatural.

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    Finally, I painted the eyes brown (sclera), lighter brown (iris) and black pupil. I also added gray highlights to the nostrils to make them stand out and be more noticeable. It remains to add white highlights to the muzzles and eyes, which should give the impression of moisture, but that is when we have finished everything else and matched them for all the muzzles on the bust.

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    Prvi korak u bojanju danske doge (nakon prajmanja i zenitala) je bilo off white bojom prekriti površinu. Nanio sam dva poluprozirna sloja boje kako bi zenital efekt ostao vidljiv. S obzirom da sam se odlučio za bijelo krzno s crnim mrljama odabrao sam plavo sivu nijansu za podlogu mrlja.

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    Razrijedio sam je vodom dok nije postala vrlo viskozna te se u kontaktu s baznom bojom na modelu razlila u prozirne mrlje s oštrim tamnim rubovima. Radio sam veće i manje mrlje trudeći se imitirati nepravilnost krzna karakteristične za tu vrstu pasa.

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    U idućem koraku istu boju sam manje razrijedio i popunio veće mrlje pokrivši manju površinu u njima. Pazio sam da ostane vidljiv pojas svijetlije mrlje ispod. U predzadnjem koraku crnom bojom sam popunio sredinu mrlja pokivši još manju površinu i tako osigurao da se zna da su mrlje crne. Crnom bojom sam obojao i vrh njuške i dijelove koji su u dubokoj sijeni. Zatim sam off white bojom mjestimično prekrio oštri rub najsvijetlijih mrlja tako da sam tanke linije bijele boje povlačio u smjeru u kojem bi trebala biti polegnuta dlaka. Time sam postigao dojam da se krzno sastoji od dlaka i razbio oštri rub mrlja koji djeluje neprirodno.

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    Za kraju sam obojao oči u smeđu boju (bijeloočnica), svjetlije smeđu (šarenica) i crnom zjenicu. Dodao sam i sive hajlajte na nosnice da se istaknu i budu uočljivije. Ostaje još dodati bijele hajlajte na njuške i oči koje bi trebale dati dojam vlage, no to kad završimo sve ostalo i uskladimo ih za sve njuške na bisti.

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    " ["created"]=> string(19) "2024-05-21 14:55:16" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2024-05-21 14:55:16" } ["Member"]=> array(10) { ["id"]=> string(2) "64" ["group_id"]=> string(1) "2" ["first_name"]=> string(9) "Krunoslav" ["last_name"]=> string(8) "Belinić" ["first_name_mask"]=> string(9) "krunoslav" ["last_name_mask"]=> string(7) "belinic" ["username"]=> string(5) "Kruno" ["password"]=> string(40) "eb3fda45fbec0258e90d809803b10491c548b22f" ["born"]=> string(19) "2015-01-18 09:19:00" ["created"]=> string(19) "2015-01-18 09:20:39" } }
    Krunoslav Belinić, 21.05.2024.
  • Iscrtavanje rimskog štita (freehand)
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    I will use this article to describe the process of drawing a Roman shield for 54mm miniatures. I won’t be going into the process of painting the basic colours of the shield, just concentrating rather on the freehand itself.

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    I found the design that I liked on the internet. I planned to recreate that design with minor changes. The first step was to draw the basic shape with a graphite pen.

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    Then, using a darkest shade follow the lines drawn by pen to make the basic shapes. Once, done, fill those shapes with the same paint.

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    Check your reference and correct if need be.

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    Afterwards, using the ligher shade begin drawing smaller shapes within the darker areas to get the contours of your design.

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    Start by drawing the simplest shapes so your hand picks up the motions subconsciously finish with the more complex (wings). Watch out that your shapes (wings for instance) have the same number of elements (feathers).

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    Next layer was the first highlight. Similar to the previous step, start drawing the simplest shapes.

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    When you finish with this step, check if you are happy with the depth of your freehand. I wasn’t so I continued with the work.

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    Using a wash, I added further shadows simulating and accentuating the curvature of the shield.

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    In the end, I added the final highlights.

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    U ovom ću članku ukratko opisati proces kojim sam iscrtao rimski štit u 54mm mjerilu. Ovdje neću objašnjavati bojanje same crvene površine štita, već samo kako sam izradio freehand.

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    Na internetu sam pronašao dizajn koji mi se svidio i kojeg ću uz manje modifikacije pokušati replicirati. Prvi korak je bio iscrtavanje osnovnih oblika običnom olovkom.

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    Zatim, najtamnijom bojom prateći linije iscrtane olovkom nacrtajte osnovne oblike te potom popunite bojom oblike.

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    Pogledajte vaš dizajn i prema potrebi korigirajte oblik.

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    Potom, svjetlijom nijansom krenite iscrtavati manje oblike unutar tamnijih ploha kako biste dodali obrise vašeg dizajna.

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    Krenite sa jednostavnijim oblicima i kad vam iscrtavanje “uđe” u ruku, završite sa složenijim (krila). Pri tome, pazite da imate jednak broj elemenata (npr. Pera) po svakom obliku (krilu).

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    Sljedeći sloj je prvi highlight. Slično kao i u prethodnom koraku, krenite sa iscrtavanjem sa jednostavnijim oblicima.

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    Kad završite, provjerite da li ste zadovoljni sa “dubinom” vašeg freehanda. Ja nisam bio sasvim pa sam nastavio sa radom.

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    Koristeći wash, dodao sam dodatne sjene – simulirajući i naglašavajući zakrivljenost površine štita.

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    I na kraju sam dodao završne highlighte.

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    Marko Paunović, 16.05.2024.
  • Kako pričvrstiti bistu na drvenu bazu
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    In this text I will describe the process of pinning a bust to a wooden plinth

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    You will need: sanding paper, pin, pen, ruler, pin vice (or electric drill), clippers and superglue.

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    Sand the bottom of the bust to get an even surface

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    Mark the two spots for pinning on the bottom of the bust. (Two pins make it easier to center the bust on the plinth)

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    Drill the two holes in the bust (use a pin vice or an electric drill)

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    Place the pins and glue them with superglue.

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    Repeat the process on the plinth - first marking then drilling the two holes for the pins.

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    Before placing the bust, dry fit the pins.

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    Glue the bust.

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(2542) "

    U ovom ću članku opisati kako pričvrstiti bistu na drveno postolje.

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    Za to će vam biti potrebno: šmirgl papir, spajalica, olovka, metar, buštilica, kliješta i superljepilo. 

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    Pošmirglajte donju površinu biste.

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    Označite dva mjesta za postavljanje zatika (pina). Spajanje preko dva zatika olakšava centriranje biste na bazu.

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    Bušilicom izbušite dvije rupe.

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    Postavite zatike i zalijepite ih.

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    Ponovite proces i na drvenoj bazi, prvo označite mjesta, zatim ih izbušite.

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    Prije postavljanja biste na bazu, provjerite da sve odgovara.

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    Zalijepite bistu na drveno postolje.

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    Krunoslav Belinić, 09.05.2024.
  • Demonstracija stolne strateške igre Forbidden Psalm 03
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    We continue preparations for our traditional Agram Arena Summer - TURM2024 with demo games of Forbidden Psalm, the game that will be played in July at the Arena. In this game, our Ana, the organizer of TURM, sets up a game for Seb and Domagoj, and this time she lets them pick their own crews!

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    Another game at Ana's, but this time Seb and I didn't play with premade warbands... we chose minis and did the whole warband creation process! The scenario we played was setting up mortsafes and looting tombs. I was extremely lucky with my magician and found 3 treasures in the first tomb, one of which was a relic.

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    Seb had a little less luck with the treasure, which got him into trouble with the skeletons. As I started the game with a few lucky rolls, I decided to invest in positive karma and help him with the mobs. At the end of the third move, Corpse Collector appeared, a large monster that we decided to defeat with joint forces.

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    To slow his progress, I summoned a Skeletal Warrior, an affiliated gang member, behind his back. Karma paid off because my gang member, Vid, defeated the Collector with a lucky mace hit and earned another relic!

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    I think we've mastered the rules and independent play quite well, and I'm looking forward to Turm!

    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(3496) "

    Nastavljamo sa pripremama za našu tradicionalnu Agram Arenu Summer – TURM2024 demo partijama Forbidden Psalma, igre koja će se igrati u srpnju na Areni. U ovoj partiji, naša Ana, organizatorica TURMa, organizira partiju za Seba i Domagoja, ali ih prepušta same sebima i pri izboru svojih vojski!

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    Jos jedan game kod Ane, ali ovaj put Seb i ja nismo igrali s premade warbandama… odabrali smo minije i odradili cijeli warband creation proces! Scenario koji smo igrali je postavljanje mortsafeova i pljackanje grobnica. Imao sam izuzetne srece sa svojim madjionicarem i u prvoj grobnici nasao 3 blaga, od kojih je jedno bila relikvija.

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    Seb je imao nesto manje srece sa blagom, sto ga je dovelo u nevolju s kosturima. Kako sam igru krenuo s nekoliko sretnih rollova, odlucio sam se investirati u pozitivnu karmu i pomoci mu oko mobova. Na kraju treceg poteza pojavio se Corpse Collector, veliko cudoviste koje smo odlucili savladati zajednickim snagama.

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    Kako bi usporio njegov napredak, iza ledja sam mu prizvao Skeletalnog ratnika, pridruzenog clana bande. Karma se isplatila jer je clan moje bande, Vid, sretnim pogotkom buzdovana savladao Collectora i zaradio jos jednu relikviju! 

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    Mislim da smo poprilicno dobro savladali pravila i samostalnu igru, i veselim se Turmu!

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    Domagoj Krpan, 28.04.2024.
  • AGRAM LEGO SEKCIJA - Četvrto predavanje i kraj izgradnje
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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(3228) "

    U srijedu 24.4. u sklopu naše Agram Lego Sekcije i službeno smo završili sa serijom predavanja  paralelno sa izradom LEGO makete dvorca Hogwarts!

    Posljednje predavanje u ovoj seriji je počelo u 18:00 i trajalo je otprilike sat vremena u kojem je naš Marko prenio sva iskustva sa putovanja u Billund i posjete Legolandu i Lego House-u.

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    Ulaz na predavanja je besplatan i otvoren za sve te prijave nisu potrebne.

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    Izrada makete je rezervirana za članove Agram Lego Sekcije. Ukoliko se želite uključiti u sljedeće projekte, javite se za više informacija na ums.agram@gmail.com .

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    Za kraj, ekipa je provela struju, odn. rasvjetu kroz cijelu maketu. 

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    A rezultat je bio magičan!

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    Marko Paunović, 24.04.2024.

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