Josip Strnad

Status in UMS "Agram": Member

When around, Josip plays "GW - Warhammer 40.000", and he's not collecting any army that we know of... but not for long! :)

Latest articles

  • Painting 1/72 Swedish dragoons - Part two - painting riders and making bases
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    In the first part, I briefly explained who the dragoons were and how I painted their horses. In today’s article, I will describe how I painted the dragoons themselves and how I arranged the bases.

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    Although it looks comical, and often very painful, this is the most practical way to paint 1/72 riders from my perspective. With a pin, I drill a 1mm hole in the rider's groin, and then insert a toothpick inside. I dip the other end of the toothpick into some old piece of styrofoam. This way I get a very practical holder and stand for painting and storing riders.

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    After priming, I paint the faces first. Basic skin color, Reikland Fleshshade and then highlights and blush-like effects as much as possible on this scale. Then I paint the dominant color of the uniform that I will be able to wash and black parts. In this case it's blue which I then washao Nuln Oil. After the Nuln Oil dried, I did the highlights on the blue divisibles and then devoted myself to the yellow. Yellow is one of the most difficult colors to paint. Some first paint the parts that need to be yellow in white and then in yellow. I opted for ocher on which I then built yellow highlites. The rest of the details went pretty "straight forward", some basic color and then highlights. Belts, swords, firearms, etc. For metal and wooden parts, I also used pre-highlight wash. In the end, I coated the figures with a layer of matte varnish.

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    Then I set out to base the figures. For each horse figure, I cut a 2.5 x 5 cm HDF board (High Density Fibreboard - and some call it hardboard). After gluing the horse to the tiles, I went to disguise the plastic base with which the horse was originally cast. I could also cut off the plastic bases, but then I would have to pin the horse's feet in hardboard and it would lose on strength and stability. This is how I masked the plastic bases using Turned Earth Mud from Mig. I didn't have a plan for what the base looked like, but it was an adventure into the unknown. I definitely didn’t like the Turned Earth Muda color so I washed the bases with Agrax Earthshade and drybrushao when the wash dried. Then I glued the vegetables I had on hand to the bases. Most of the tuffs I had as well as the flowers were a bit oversized for this scale, but in the end I am still happy with the result.

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    When it was all over, I painted the edges of the bases black and glued the dragoons to the horses.

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    " ["content_hrv"]=> string(5302) "

    U prvom dijelu ukratko sam pojasnio tko su draguni i kako sam obojao njihove konje. U današnjem članku opisati ću kako sam obojao same dragune i kako sam uredio baze.

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    Iako izgleda komično, a često i vrlo bolno ovo je najpraktičniji način bojanja 1/72 jahača iz moje perspektive. Pin viseom izbušim rupu od 1mm u jahačevim preponama, a zatim unutra ubacim čačkalicu. Drugi kraj čačklaice upiknem u neki stari komad stirodura. Na taj način dobijem vrlo praktičan držač i stalak za bojanje i odlaganja jahača.

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    Nakon primera prvo bojam lice. Osnovna boja kože, Reikland Fleshshade i onda highliteovi i efekti poput rumenila koliko je moguće u ovom mjerilu. Zatim bojam dominantnu boju uniforme koju ću moći washati i crne dijelove. U ovom slučaju to je plava koju sam zatim washao Nuln Oilom. Nakon što se Nuln Oil osušio, odradio sam highliteove na plavim dijelivoma, a zatim se posvetio žutoj. Žuta je jedna od najtežih boja za bojanje. Neki prvo dijelove koji trebaju biti žuti obojaju u bijelu, a zatim u žutu. Ja sam se odlučio za oker na kojoj sam onda gradio žute highliteove. Ostatak detalja išao je prilično „straght forward“, neka osnovna boja i zatim highliteovi. Remenje, mačevi, vatreno oružje itd. Za metalne i drvene dijelove koristio sam i wash prije highliteanja. Na kraju sam figure premazao slojem mat laka.

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    Zatim sam krenuo bazirati figure. Za svaku figuru konja izrezao sam pločicu HDF-a (High Density Fibreboard – a neki ga zovu i lesonit) dimenzija 2,5 x 5 cm. Nakon što sam konej zalijepio na pločice, išao sam zamaskirati plastičnu bazu s kojom je konj orginalno izliven. Mogao sam i odrezati plastične baze, ali onda bi morao pinati konjske noge u lesonit te bi izgubio na čvrstoći i stabilnosti. Ovako sam maskirao plastične baze koristeći Turned Earth Mud od Miga. Nisam imao neki plan kakav sam želio izgled baza već je to bila avantura u nepoznato. Svakako mi se nije svidjela boja Turned Earth Muda pa sam baze washao Agrax Earthshadeom i drybrushao kada se wash osušio. Zatim sam na baze polijepio razmu zelenjavu koja mi je bila pri ruci. Većina tufova koje sam imao kao i cvijeće malo je oversized za ovo mjerilo, no na kraju sam ipak zadovoljan rezultatom.

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    Kada je sve bilo gotovo, obojao sam rubove baza u crno i zalijepio dragune na konje.

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    Dalibor Čavić, 17th January 2022
  • Diorama USSR 1986 – part 1
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    In this series of articles, I will write about making a USSR diorama in 1986. I will show how I made the "terrain" and the model myself, how I painted them and what effects I used. In addition, vegetation and slices will be discussed.

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    In the first article I will describe the making of the terrain. For the base I took a picture frame that I got in Lesnina. Size is 13 x 18 (opening). The idea I got was to put the van, UAZ 3909, as a wreck next to some Soviet statue. I opted for a sickle and a five-pointed hammer. I googled that there were several versions of such a statue, so I decided to do it because it seemed popular in those parts of the time. I made a statue shape on a computer and printed it out on self-adhesive paper.

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    The idea behind it was to cut out the shape of the statue from the sticker and stick it on the styrofoam. Then I cut out the styrofoam and have the shape of a statue.

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    Be careful when cutting and sanding before the next step. Also, it’s a good idea to check how your parts fit the base. In order not to run out of space…

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    Since it is a picture frame, the basic plane of the diorama was inserted into the frame. This did not suit me in this case, so I decided to make a "floor" of balsa. I cut out a matching 5mm thick balsa board and checked that it fit the frame groove.

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    Then I marked the tracks on the road with a marker. In doing so, I used the elements I had at my disposal (statue and UAZ chassis).

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    Then came the turn of the plaster. I used gypsum to simulate the concrete on the statue. I concluded that this would be the most convincing, and the making of the whole statue has been simplified to the maximum. I mixed in the aqueous version of the plaster so that it was lightly smeared on the statue. I poured the rest of the plaster into a wooden frame on the base floor. That will be the base of the statue.

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    The next step was the formation of a road - macadam. For that I used DAS clay. I formed the body of the road and pressed the wheel tracks into it, according to the distance on the UAZ model. Also, since I realized it wouldn’t fit all the way between the road and the statue, I decided to keep his left wheel set in one wheel track. That meant I had to imprint another, shallower, set of tracks - made by vehicles that bypassed it. For the tire prints, I used real rubber wheels from another model.

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    When the clay dried, I covered everything except the wheel tracks with diluted PVA glue and sprinkled with two different types of sand. I didn't bother too much about the texture because I had already planned to cover most of the surface with vegetation. The only place I tried was the road. There I carefully applied glue and sprinkled with sand.

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    For this article, that's it. Next time start painting the base.

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    U ovoj seriji članaka pisat ću o izradi diorame SSSR 1986. Pokazat ću kako sam izradio sami „teren“ i maketu te kako sam ih obojao i koje efekte sam koristio. Pored toga, bit će riječi i o vegetaciji i rezinima.

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    U prvom članku opisat ću izradu terena. Za bazu sam uzeo okvir za slike kojeg sam nabavio u Lesnini. Veličine je 13 x 18 (otvor). Ideja koju sam dobio je bila da kombi, UAZ 3909, kao olupinu stavim pored nekakvog sovjetskog kipa. Odlučio sam se za srp i čekić sa petokrakom. Guglanjem sam otkrio da postoji više verzija takvog kipa pa sam se odlučio za to jer se činila popularna u tim krajevima tog doba. Na kompjuteru sam izradio oblik kipa i isprintao ga na samoljepivi papir.

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    Ideja iza toga bila je da izrežem oblik kipa iz naljepnice te ju zalijepim na stirodur. Potom izrežem stirodur i imam oblik kipa.

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    Budite pažljivi prilikom rezanja i pošmirglajte prije sljedećeg koraka. Također, dobro je provjeriti kako vam dijelovi pašu na bazu. Da se ne bi dogodilo da vam nedostaje prostora…

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    S obzirom da se radi o okviru za slike, osnovna ravnina diorame je bila upuštena u okvir. To mi nije u ovom slučaju odgovaralo pa sam se odlučio za izradu „podnice“ od balze. Izrezao sam odgovarajuću ploču 5mm debele balze i provjerio kako paše utoru okvira.

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    Potom sam markerom ucrtao tragove na cesti. Pri tome sam koristio elemente koje sam imao na raspolaganju (kip i podvozje UAZa).

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    Zatim je došao red na gips. Gips sam koristio za simulaciju betona na kipu. Zaključio sam da bi ovako bio najuvjerljiviji, a i izrada cijelog kipa je pojednostavljena do maksimuma. Umiješao sam vodenu verziju gipsa, tako da se lagano razmazivao po kipu. Ostatak gipsa sam ulio u drveni okvir na podnici baze. To će biti podnožje kipa.

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    Sljedeći korak bilo je formiranje ceste – makadama. Za to sam koristio DAS glinamol. Formirao sam tijelo ceste i u nju utisnuo tragove kotača, prema razmaku na maketi UAZa. Također, s obzirom da sam uvidio da neće stati cijeli između ceste i kipa, odlučio sam da mu lijevi set kotača bude u jednom tragu kotača. To je značilo da sam morao utisnuti i drugi, plići, set tragova – koje su napravila vozila koja su ga zaobilazila. Za otiske guma, sam koristio prave gumene kotače sa jedne druge makete.

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    Kada se glinamol osušio, prekrio sam sve osim tragova kotača sa razvodnjenim PVA ljepilom i posipao s dvije različite vrste pijeska. Nisam se previše trudio oko teksture jer sam već otprije planirao većinu površine prekriti vegetacijom. Jedino gdje sam se trudio bila je cesta. Tu sam pažljivo nanosio i ljepilo i posipavao pijescima.

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    Za ovaj članak, to je to. Sljedeći put kreće bojanje baze.

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    Marko Paunović, 17th January 2022
  • Pouring the paint into new bottles
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    This next article was written by our long time member who now lives in far away Germany, Berislav Tušek.

     

    Introduction

    Dear hobby friends, it was my turn to give in under Marko's relentless pressure and to dare to write an article. I hope you won’t be overly sorry for wasting time after reading it.

    I decided to write my own review of the issue I have been dealing with lately, and that is the transfer of Citadel paints from their Copyright bottles into some more meaningful ones, i.e. into dropper bottles (i.e. nozzles).

    First a little introduction. I started working on hobbies in parallel with the first film in the Lord of the Rings trilogy, and I used Citadel colors almost exclusively. After a few years break, I returned to the hobby and started buying Citadel paints again, probably because I knew them best. Over time, ie after watching a bunch of videos on wet blending and other techniques, I started to get some Scale 75 because I probably expected the colors to achieve wet blending on their own, which I haven't mastered yet. However, I realized that there are other ways to put paint on a wet palette and that dropper bottles are much easier to use. In addition, I have seen that almost everyone who posts something on the internet uses Citadel paints in dropper bottles. This prompted me to take a step called color pouring.

    In preparation, I watched a lot of videos on youtube, not all of which make sense. In the end, I took something from everyone. Here I did streaming only Citadel Base and Layer paints.

     

    Materials Needed

    Figure 1 shows everything we need to transfer color.

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    Figure 1: Required material

    Description according to the numbers in the picture:

    1. Stainless steel balls - not needed for pouring, but help to mix the color in future use

    2. Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver 71,562

    3. Vallejo Airbrush Thinner 71,161

    4. Large funnel

    5. Small funnel

    6. Citadel color

    7. 15 ml bottle

    8. Bottle cap

    9. Nozzle / dropper

    10. "Disposable" pipettes

    11. Glass container with water

    12. Another vessel with water

    13. Hobby pliers

    14. Paper towel

    I used Vallejo Flow improver and Thinner, but the same products from other hobby brands will definitely be fine.

    As for items 7, 8 and 9, they usually come together, and I ordered it all through Amazon.

    Bottles, stoppers and nozzles

    Pipette

    Funnels

    I didn't pay attention to the funnels being made in three sizes, the small size is quite enough.

     

    Steps

    Step 1

    Remove the sticker from the Citadel bottle and stick it on the new bottle. In doing so, we can cut off the excess sticker with scissors, but it is not absolutely necessary. In this step, we insert one (or two) balls into a new bottle. (Figure 2)

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    Figure 2: Switching the label

     

    Step 2

    Cut the plastic joints of the Citadel bottle cap. This will make it easier for us to prepare the color with Flow enhancer and Thinner. (Figure 3)

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    Figure 3: Cutting the plastic joints of the bottle cap

     

    Step 3

    Pipette about 1 ml of Flow Improver and up to 1 ml of Thinner into the Citadel bottle with color. After that, it is obligatory to close the bottle and mix well. Here it is necessary to adjust the amount of paint viscosity additive. The paint should flow through the funnel without the paint level in the funnel increasing due to the viscosity of the paint, which will lead to increased paint loss on the funnel. This will make it easier for us to prepare the color with Flow enhancer and Thinner. (Figure 4)

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    Figure 4: Adding Flow improvers and Thinners

     

    Step 4

    We open the well-mixed bottle and pour it into a new bottle in which we put the funnel before. If the funnel tube is so wide that it fits snugly on the neck of the bottle, it is necessary to raise the funnel a little so that the air can reach the bottle without hindrance and thus facilitate the entry of paint into the bottle. (Figure 5)

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    Figure 5: Pouring the paint

    After the paint starts to drip, stop pouring and add approximately 0.5ml of thinner to the Citadel bottle and mix again. Repeat the remaining color. With this procedure, I was able to extract most of the paint from the bottle and I did not bother with any paint residue on the cap.

     

    Step 5

    We let gravity do its thing and put the funnel in a container with water. (Figures 6 and 7)

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    Figure 6: Pouring of color into a new bottle

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    Figure 7: Disposing of the funnel in a container of water will facilitate its later cleaning

     

    Step 6

    If you notice that the nozzle opening of the bottle is too narrow, you can drill it, either with an awl or a drill of a hobby drill. This will reduce the likelihood that the paint in the nozzle will dry out and the nozzle will crack. (Figure 8)

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    Figure 8: Nozzle drilling

    And that's it.

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    Figure 9: Paint in its new home

     

    Additional notes

    The mystery of the second water vessel is that some youtubers also use water to dilute the paint. In my opinion, that is not necessary, the two products I listed were quite enough for me.

    I guess Citadel washes or contrast paints don’t need as many diluent additives because they’re already a lot rarer than base coat and base paints anyway.

    The paint poured in this way is a bit thinner than the original paint, but for me it is negligible. I mostly paint using layering and glazing anyway so I prefer that anyway.

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    Ovaj sljedeći članak je napisao naš dugogodišnji član koji sada živi u Njemačkoj, Berislav Tušek!

     

    Uvod

    Poštovani hobby prijatelji, došao je i na mene red da popustim pod nesmiljenim Markovim pritiscima te da se odvažim napisati članak. Nadam se da vam neće biti pretjerano žao uludo bačenog vremena, nakon što ga pročitate.

    Odlučio sam napisati svoj osvrt na problematiku kojom sam u posljednje vrijeme bavio, a to je pretakanje Citadel boja iz njihovih Copyright bočica u neke smislenije, tj. u bočice s kapaljkom (tj. sapnicom).

    Prvo malo uvoda. Hobbyem sam se počeo baviti usporedo s prvim filmom iz trilogije Gospodar Prstenova te sam skoro isključivo koristio Citadel boje. Nakon nekoliko godina pauze, vratio sam se hobbyu te ponovo počeo kupovati Citadel boje, valjda jer sam ih i najbolje poznavao. S vremenom, tj. nakon što sam pogledao hrpu videa o wet blendingu i ostalim tehnikama, počeo sam nabavljati i ponešto Scale 75 jer sam valjda očekivao da će boje same od sebe postići wet blending, koji ni izdaleka još nisam savladao. Ipak, uvidio sam da postoje i drugi načini stavljanja boja na mokru paletu te da su bočice s kapaljkom puno jednostavnije za korištenje. Osim toga sam vidio da skoro svi koji objavljuju nešto na internetu, koriste Citadel boje u bočicama s kapaljkom. To me je nagnalo da se odvažim na korak zvan pretakanje boja.

    U pripremi pogledao sam puno videa na youtube-u od kojih nisu baš svi smisleni. Na kraju sam od svakog uzeo ponešto. Ovdje sam radio pretakanje samo Citadel Base i Layer boja.

     

    Potrebni materijal

    Na slici 1 prikazano je sve što nam je potrebno za pretakanje boje.

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    Slika 1: Potreban materijal

    Opis prema brojevima na slici:

    1. Kuglice od nehrđajućeg čelika – nisu potrebne pri pretakanju, ali pomažu pri miješanju boje u budućem korištenju

    2. Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver 71.562

    3. Vallejo Airbrush Thinner 71.161

    4. Veliki lijevak

    5. Mali lijevak

    6. Citadel boja

    7. Bočica od 15 ml

    8. Čep bočice

    9. Sapnica/ kapaljka

    10. „Jednokratne“ pipete

    11. Staklena posuda s vodom

    12. Druga posuda s vodom

    13. Hobby kliješta

    14. Papirnati ručnik

     

    Koristio sam Vallejo Flow improver i Thinner, ali istovrsni proizvodi drugih hobby marki će sasvim sigurno biti u redu.

    Što se tiče stavki 7, 8 i 9, one obično dolaze skupa, a ja sam sve to naručio preko Amazona.

    Bočice, čepovi i sapnice

    Pipete

    Lijevci

    Kod lijevaka nisam pazio na to da su napravljeni u tri veličine, mala veličina je sasvim dovoljna.

     

    Koraci

    Korak 1

    Odstranimo naljepnicu sa Citadel bočice i nalijepimo ju na novu bočicu. Pri tome možemo škarama odrezati višak naljepnice, ali nije prijeko potrebno. Pri ovom koraku ubacujemo jednu (ili dvije) kuglice u novu bočicu. (Slika 2)

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    Slika 2: Prebacivanje naljepnice

     

    Korak 2

    Prerežemo plastične spojeve poklopca Citadel bočice. To će nam olakšati pripremu boje Flow improverom i Thinnerom. (Slika 3)

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    Slika 3: Rezanje plastičnih spojeva poklopca bočice

     

    Korak 3

    U Citadel bočicu s bojom pipetama ubacujemo oko 1ml Flow improvera te do 1ml Thinnera. Nakon toga je obavezno zatvoriti bočicu i dobro promiješati. Ovdje je potrebno prilagoditi količinu aditiva viskoznosti boje. Boja bi trebala istjecati kroz lijevak bez da se nivo boje u lijevku zbog viskoznosti boje povećava, što će dovesti do povećanog gubitka boje na lijevku. To će nam olakšati pripremu boje Flow improverom i Thinnerom. (Slika 4)

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    Slika 4: Dodavanje Flow improvera i Thinnera

     

    Korak 4

    Dobro promiješanu bočicu otvaramo te ulijevamo u novu bočicu u koju smo prije toga stavili lijevak. Ukoliko je cijevčica lijevka toliko široka da tijesno nasjeda na grlo bočice, potrebno je malo podignuti lijevak kako bi zrak mogao nesmetano doprijeti u bočicu i tako olakšati ulazak boje u bočicu. (Slika 5)

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    Slika 5: Pretakanje boje

    Nakon što boja počne kapati, prekinite pretakanje te ubacite otprilike 0.5ml razrijeđivača u Citadel bočicu te ju ponovo promiješajte. Ponovite pretakanje preostale boje. Ovim postupkom sam uspjevao izvući većinu boje iz bočice te se nisam zamarao eventualnim ostacima boje na čepu.

     

    Korak 5

    Puštamo gravitaciji da odradi svoje te lijevak odlažemo u posudu s vodom. (Slike 6 i 7)

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    Slika 6: Utjecanje boje u novu bočicu

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    Slika 7: Odlaganje lijevka u posudu s vodom olakšat će njegovo kasnije čišćenje

     

    Korak 6

    Ukoliko primijetite da je otvor sapnice bočice preuzak, možete ga razvrtati, bilo šilom ili borerom hobby bušilice. To će smanjiti vjerojatnost da se boja u sapnici osuši i da sapnica napukne. (Slika 8)

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    Slika 8: Razvrtanje sapnice

    I to je to.

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    Slika 9: Boja u novom domu

     

    Dodatne napomene

    Misterij druge posude za vodu jest da neki jubitoičari koriste i vodu za razrijeđivanje boje. Po meni to nije potrebno, dva proizvoda koje sam naveo su meni bila sasvim dovoljna.

    Pretpostavljam da Citadel washevi ili contrast boje ne trebaju toliko aditiva za razrijeđivanje jer već ionako puno rijeđi od osnovnih layer i base boja.

    Ovako pretočena boja jest ponešto rijeđa od originalne boje, ali za mene zanemarivo. Ja ionako većinom bojam koristeći layering i glazeing pa mi je to ionako poželjno.

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    Marko Paunović, 17th January 2022
  • Agram Group Build Report 02/22
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    In this series of articles we will follow our Goran, Kruno, Dalibor, Domagoj i Marko while making dioramas and painting figures divided into several projects as a part of Agram Group Build Projects. The main idea is to let everyone make something on each project and the chief rule (apart that there are no rules) is not to tamper with another persons work. To let everyone partake and make several Frankenstein monsters…

    KRUNO: The model already had “gaps” between the parts after assembly. I used GSW green stuff in tubes to fill in the gaps. The tube has a thin funnel on top that helps significantly with the delicate wear and tear of things. However, with larger gaps, it was more convenient for me to squeeze things out on a piece of paper and then use a shaping tool to insert it into the "hole". I tried to press the stuff as deep as possible into the slits so that when the material dries it holds the rubber firmly.
    Click for enlarged picture
    The material shrinks during drying, so after two hours it was possible to see again where the joints of the parts were. So I applied a second coat of green stuff and carefully pressed it. After drying, I removed the excess stuff with shaping tools and shaped it according to the surfaces of the parts.
    Finally, I smoothed the texture of the green stuff with sandpaper so that after painting I would not notice a difference in the texture of different parts.
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    GORAN: //DEJA VU// In parallel with our dog tinkering, the guys from Domagoj’s Slow Grow League did one 40k game - this time two on two - Dark Eldar & Co against some SMs.
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    MARKO: I informed the guys about my assignment for this week. I browsed the internet and concluded a few things in vain. The origins of the Breton knights are like dry gold. But that’s why I found, hopefully adequate, a replacement in the Fireforge Games figures for Deus Vult. The box is called Western Knights. There are just 12 of them inside (six on each side), and they all ride barded horses and have options for all 12 spears… In addition, I found adequate figures for the audience. Fenryll civilians.
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    Feel free to contact us here if you are interested! We are every Wednesday from 6 pm to 10 pm in KD ZZTK on Trg žrtava fašizma 14.

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    U ovoj seriji članaka pratit ćemo našeg Gorana, Krunu, Dalibora, Domagoja i Marka u izradi diorama, bojanju minijatura podijeljenih u nekoliko projekata u sklopu Agram Group Build. Ideja je da svatko nešto odradi na svakom od projekata - a glavno pravilo (osim da nema pravila) jest da se ne prtlja po tuđem radu. Da svi sudjelujemo i napravimo nekakvo frankensteinovo čudo...

    KRUNO: Model je nakon sastavljanja imao već "rupe" između dijelova. Za popunjavanje praznina koristio sam GSW green stuff u tubici. Tubica ima tanki lijevak na vrhu koji značajno pomaže pri šteljivom trošenju stuffa. Ipak kod većih praznina bilo mi je zgodnije istisnuti stuff na komad papira i onda alatom za oblikovanje unositi ga u "rupu". Pokušao sam stuff utisnuti što dublje u procijepe kako bi kad se materijal posuši čvrsto se držao rezin.
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    Materijal se pri sušenju stiska, pa su se nakon dva sata ponovo moglo vidjeti gdje su spojevi dijelova. Zato sam nanio i drugi sloj green stuffa i pažljivo ga utisnuo. Nako sušenja sam alatima za oblikovanje skinuo višak stuffa i oblikovao ga prema plohama dijelova.
    Za kraj sam brusnim papirom zaglatio teksturu green stuffa kako se nakon bojanja ne bi primjetila razlika u teksturi razlicitih dijelova..
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    GORAN: //DEJA VU// Paralelno s našim petljanjem po psima, dečki iz Domagojeve Slow Grow Lige su odradili jednu partiju 40k – ovaj puta dva na dva – Dark Eldar & Co protiv nekih SM.
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    MARKO: Izvijestio sam dečke o svojoj zadaći za ovaj tjedan. Pregledao sam internete i u bespućima zaključio nekoliko stvari. Origigi bretonski vitezi su ko suho zlato. Ali sam zato našao, nadam se adekvatnu, zamjenu u figurama tvrtke Fireforge Games za igru Deus Vult. Box se zove Western Knights. Taman ih je 12 unutra (za po šest na svakoj strani), a svi jašu barded konje i imaju opcije za svih 12 kopalja… Uz to, našao sam i adekvatne figure za publiku. Civili tvrtke Fenryll.
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    Slobodno se ovdje javite ako ste zainteresirani! Nalazimo se svake srijede od 18-22h u KD ZZTK na Trgu žrtava fašizma 14.

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    Krunoslav Belinić, 17th January 2022
  • Magnetising a Harlequin
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    Some time ago, rumors started about how the new rules for harlequin are coming out, and with that, the equipment they will be able to use will change. To make sure that space clowns could stay relevant no matter what shite happens in the rules, I decided to try magnetizing miniatures for the first time.

    To try the magnetization without destroying the fresh model, I took the ebay rescue miniature which I got very conveniently. I like to do new things with older or cheaper models, so that I don't have to cry about the money and time spent or wasted. What we need for magnetization is a model, more precisely a torso and a limb that we want to magnetize, a magnet of the appropriate dimensions and a hand drill with which we will use a drill of the appropriate dimensions. The magnets I prepared for the harlequins are 2mm in diameter, so I also prepared a 2 mm drill bit.

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    Once we have prepared everything we can start having fun. I would recommend that smaller and more delicate models such as the harlequin be hand-made first, as they have less material, and allow less room for error. The torso is relatively easy to do, the body has enough width and depth that it is difficult to make cardinal mistakes. If, for example, we do not have enough space to "push" the whole magnet and hide it in our hand, we have space to place the magnet "deeper" in the torso to compensate. The hands should definitely go slowly so as not to remove too much material.

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    Once we have made enough grooves with the drill to accommodate the magnets, it is time to fasten them inside the model. For the purposes of this step, I used super glue in combination with a plain, wooden toothpick. With a toothpick, I would transfer a drop of super glue into the groove I made, so that I would have super glue on as small a surface as possible and so that the application of the adhesive would be as precise as possible. This step was essential to me to ensure that only the magnet sticks and to avoid any excess glue on unwanted surfaces.

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    I let the glue dry for a few minutes and tried to put my hand back in the harlequin's shoulder. I am satisfied with the result, and now that I am assembling new miniatures, I know how to prepare them to be more versatile and adaptable to changes in the rules.

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    Prije nekog vremena krenule su glasine o tome kako izlaze nova pravila za harlequin, i samim time će se mjenjati i oprema koju će moći koristiti. Kako bi se pobrinuo da svemirski klaunovi mogu ostati relevantni kakva god da se majmuniranja događaju u pravilima, odlučio sam se prvi put okušati u magnetiziranju minijatura.

    Kako bih iskušao magnetizaciju bez da uništim svježi model, uzeo sam ebay rescue minijaturu koju sam dobio jako povoljno. Nove stvari volim raditi sa starijim ili povoljnijim modelima, da ne moram plakati zbog potrošenog ili bačenog novca i vremena. Ono što nam je potrebno za magnetizaciju je model, točnije torzo i ud koji želimo magnetizirati, magnet odgovarajućih dimenzija i ručna bušilica s kojom ćemo koristiti borer odgovarajuće dimenzije. Magnetići koje sam pripremio za harlequine diametra su 2mm, pa sam pripremio i dvomilimetarski borer.

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    Kada smo sve pripremili možemo početi sa zabavom. Preporučio bih da se kod manjih i delikatnijih modela kao što su harlequin prvo ruke odrade, jer imaju manje materijala, i dopuštaju manje prostora za greške. Torzo je relativno lako odraditi, tijelo ima dovoljnu širinu i dubinu da je teško počiniti kardinalne greške. Ako npr, nemamo dovoljno prostora da cijeli magnet “zaguramo” i sakrijemo u ruku, imamo prostora magnet postaviti “dublje” u torzu kako bi kompenzirali. Kod ruku svakako treba ići polako kako ne bi odstranili previše materijala.

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    Kada smo borerom napravili dovoljne utore za smjestit magnete, vrijeme je da ih pričvrstimo unutar modela. Za potrebe ovog koraka koristio sam super ljepilo u kombinaciji s običnom, drvenom čačkalicom. Čačkalicom bih prenio kapljicu super ljepila u utor koji sam napravio, kako bih super ljepilo imao na što manjoj površini i kako bih aplikacija adheziva bila što preciznija. Ovaj korak mi je bio bitan kako bi osigurao da se samo magnet zalijepi i da izbjegnem bilo kakav višak ljepila na neželjenim površinama.

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    Pustio sam ljepilo da se osuši nekoliko minuta i pokušao vratiti ruku u rame harlequina. Zadovoljan sam rezultatom, te sada kada slažem nove minijature znam kako ih pripremiti da budu svestraniji i prilagodljivi na promjene u pravilima.

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    Domagoj Krpan, 12nd January 2022

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